Quality is the most important strategic issue facing top management of textile manufacturing in the 1990s. It used to be the sole responsbility of the quality professional and confined to the manufacturing floor. Now we see a company-wide concern with quality and recognize that it is affected by every member of the organization, and it requires a change in thinking from the top of the organization to the bottom. This paper presents mainly quality control activities of some textile plants in Taiwan.

The thermal stability of poly(2,5-diaminobenzamide-terephthalamideXPDB TA) and poly(4,4'-diaminocarbamoylbe- nzanilide-te.ephthalamide) poly(PDACB -TPC ) was comparable with that of poly(p-phenyleneterephthalamideXPPTA) ; The PDBTA was decomposed with slower rate and Save higher residue than PPTA. The onset temperature of decomposition of heat-treated PDBTA and poly(PDACB-TPC) as well as chemically treated(with fuming sulfuric acid) polyp-DACB-TPC) shows 520℃, 517℃ and 514℃ measured by TGA under nitrogen atmosphere with rate of 10℃/min respectively. Tensile measurement of undrawn PDBTA films heat-treated at 200℃ and 300℃, respectively, for 1 hour gives around 25kg/mm2 (250MPa) of tensile strength and 900kg/mm2(gGPa) of tensile modulus, and that of wet-drawn PDBTA films(0.7 times in machine direction) shows around 52kg/mm2(510MPa) of tensile strength and around 2500kg1mm2(250pa) of tensile modulus. Tensile properties of poly(PDACB-TPC) film prepared by using hanger type coater are superior to that obtained by casting on the 섭ass plate. The tensile properties increase with increasing draw ratio. Tensile measurement of wet-drawn poly(p DACB-TPC) fims(0.5 times in machine direction) prepared by using hanger type coater Bives around 56∼62kg/mm2(550∼608MPa) of tensile strength and around 2565kg/mm2(220pa) of tensile modulus. Dynamic mechanical measurements carried out by Rheovibron at 110Hz of both undrawn and wet-drawn PDBTA as well as poly(p-DACB-TPC) films treated at 300℃ for 1 hour represent that the aromatic polyamide film retains outstanding mechanical properties even at 400℃. The crystallinity of polyamide films was investigated by X-ray difaactovam obtained by reflection method using nickel filtered CuKa radiation, indicating that the polymer has low degree of crystallinity.

The properties of carbon fibers made fiom PAN are controlled by the heat treatment conditions. The length changes during heat treatment of high strenffh homo-PAN and co-PAN(acrylonitrile/acrylamide : 9812wt%) fibers in nitrogen atmosphere were measured by monitoring the elongation-shrinkage behavior under variable loading from 0.02 to 0.1g/d. A few structure parameters such as aromaticity index and crystalline orientation etc. were determined for the fibers heat-treated by linear heating to 27$0^{\circ}C$. The onset temperature of the chemical shrinkage during heat treatment coincided with the one of the exothermic peak of DSC thermoyams. When PAN fibers are heated under variable loads, the fiber length changes by various ways, namely physcial shrinkage, balance-elongation and chemical shrinkage. The co-PAN fibers tend to shrink more readily than homo-PAN fibers in that the onset of chemical shrinkage of co-PAN is shified to lower temperature. The total shrinkage of PAN fibers decreased with increasing load.

The processing shrinkage of polyester filament fabrics in relaxed and pre-set state give a direct influence on the mechanical and physical properties of the fabrics which effect fabric hand. This paper surveys correlation between fabric structural parameters such as warp and weft densities of the fabrics, and weft twist and processing shrinkage of the fabrics. For the purpose of this objective, specimens with various warp and weft densities, twists, and weft linear densities are prepared for the plain and satin weaves, respectively. All the specimens were processed into finishing process, and processing shrinkage in the relaxation and pre-set processes were measured.

The mechanical properties of fabric have an influence on clothing performance such as fabric handle which depends on the processing shrinkage. This paper surveys correlation between the mechanical properties and the processing shrinkage of polyester plain woven fabric with variance of fabric structural parameters. The main structural parameter is warp density including various weft densities, and linear densities of weft yarns. Mechanical properties of polyester fabric were measured by KES-FB system. The effects of fabric warp density on the processing shrinkage, and the mechanical properties of fabrics are analyzed.

In order to improve the mechanical properties, siloxane oligomers or polymers with functionalized end groups are of ien copolymerized with organic monomers to induce linkages such as urea, amide, urethane, and imide, etc. In this study, the aminopropyl-terminated poly(1,1,1-trifluoropropylmethyl-dimethyl)siloxane were bulk-polymerized with 1,) -bis(Y- aminopropyl) telramethyl disiloxane(DSX) as an end blocker, oclamethylcyclotelrasiloxane(D4), and (1,1,1-trifluoropropyl) methylcyclopolysiloxane (F)4, and a basic catalyst. Their compositions and molecular weights were analyzed by 1H-NMR spectroscopy, and the potentiometric titration method was used for the confirmation of molecular weight. The compositions of the polymers were found to be almost equal to the feed ratios. It was realized that well-defied siloxane oligomers having controlled composition and molecular weight could be utilized in synthesis and properties control of siloxane-organic copolymers.

This study focused on the effect of spinning conditions on the morphology of PAN fiber in the on-line dry-jet wet spinning. The fiber so produced exhibited a very uniform surface structure compared with wet spun fiber. The coagulant composition (the ratio of dimethyl sulfoxide(DMSO) to water) and coagulation temperature proved to be two cardinal facts for determining the fiber structure. The more circular fibers were obtained at low DMSO contents in the coagulation system and at lower coagulation temperature. However, the take-up speed had little effect on the fiber structure.

The objectives of this study were 1) to compare physical and wear performances of panty hoses made with silk 61amen1 and texturized nylon filament yams, 2) to examine these characteristics as a function of the percentage of texturized nylon filament yarn, 3) to evaluate thermal resistances and thermoyaphic assessments of those panty hoses worn on a thermal manikin, and 4) to investigate objective wear performances including microclimate and subjective wear sensations and relationships with their physical performances. Five digrent types of panty hoses made with silk filament yarn(S4), texturized nylon filament(N4), and blending level of the two types of yarn were(SIN3, S2N2, S3Nl) used as test specimens. Warmth retention values and Q-max values were measured using Thermo Labo II, and breaking strengths and elongations were evaluated by Instron Tensile Tester. Thermal manikin and subject wear tests were conducted in the following environmental conditions 21$\pm$1$^{\circ}C$, 60$\pm$ 5% RH., and 0.25m/sec air velocity. Ten healthy female subjects followed the repeated exercises consisting of walking on a treadmill and resting. The results were as follows: 1) In warmth retention values and Q-max values, S4 showed higher values than N4. 2) The wickability and moisture regain of S4 showed higher performance than those of N4 but elongation and breaking strength of S4 was lower than that of N4. 3) As the blending level of silk filament yarn increases, warmth retention value, 0-max values, moisture regain, and wickability were increased but elongation and breaking strength were decreased. 4) Clo values measured using thermal manikin increased in the following order: S4>S2N2>N4. 5) Microclimate temperatures of the subjects who worn S4 were significantly higher than those of subjects who worn S2N2 and N4. But microclimate humidities were not significantly different among the subjects who worn S4, S2N2 and N4. 6) Thermal sensation rating of subjects who worn S2N2 was significantly higher than that of subjects who worn S4 and N4. Humidity, tactile and overall sensation ratings of subjects who worn S4 and S2N2 were lower than those of subjects who worn N4.

Cotton fabric was treated with the mixture of chitosan and DMDHEU in one step process. Effect of chitosan on dye uptake was investigated. Colorfastness to laundering and rubbing was evaluated. Performance properties including wrinkle resistance, breaking strength, and stiffness were also measured. The treated samples had an acceptable level of wrinkle resistance, yet were dyeable with direct and acid dyes. At the higher molecular weight of chitosan, the higher direct and acid dye uptakes were obtained. Reactive dye uptake under acid condition was increased appreciably compared with that under alkaline condition.