• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.166-177
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• 2006

The accuracy impact of using high-order Boussinesq-type model as compared to the typical order model is examined in this paper. The multi-layer model developed by Lynett and Liu(2004a) is used for simulating of wave breaking over a shelf region. The nonlinearity of the waves tested, ${k_0}{A_0}$, ranges from 0.029 to 0.180. The overall agreement between the two-layer model and the hydraulic experiments are quite good. The one-layer model overshoals the wave near the breakpoint, while the two-layer model shoals at a rate more consistent with the experimental data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.429-435
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• 2007

The present study proposed a method fer simulating reflective boundary conditions in Boussinesq wave propagation model by lining lateral boundaries like breakwaters and seawalls with artificial sponge layers. In order to find out the reflective characteristics of sponge layers, 1D numerical experiments were performed varying the relative sponge width (sponge width/wave length). The results showed that the reflection coefficient can be effectively realized from no reflection to full reflection simply by adjusting the relative sponge width. Based on the results, a multiple regression formula was proposed to delineate the relationship among the reflection coefficient and other dimensionless variables. Finally, the reflective sponge layer was applied to a semi-infinite breakwater, demonstrating that it can also be successfully employed in 2D applications.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.154-165
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• 2006

In the present study, a numerical model using Boussinesq equation is set up to predict the interacted equilibrium between waves and their induced currents in the occurrence of breaking waves over an underwater shoal, and the numerical results are compared with results of existing hydraulic experiments. A sensitivity analysis has been done to find out appropriate values of breaking wave parameters with the result (regular wave case) of Vincent and Briggs (1989)’ experiment. Then the numerical model is applied to the irregular wave cases of the experiment and the hydraulic model test of Ieodo which is a natural undersea shoal. The results show that a strong current forms in the wave direction at the downstream side of the shoals, causing the attenuation of wave heights there. The calculated wave heights generally show a similar pattern with the measured data.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.21 no.1 s.74
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• pp.7-17
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• 2007

Based on the Boussinesq wave model, the wave distribution in the Chagui-Do sea area in Jeju was simulated by applying the directional irregular waves at an incident boundary. The time and spatial variations of monthly mean wave height and period were investigated, which aims to provide basic information on optimal sites for wave power generation. The grid size and time interval of the Boussinesq wave model were validated by examining wave distributions around a surface piercing wall, fixed at sea bottom with a constant slope. Except for the summer season, the significant wave height is dominated by wind waves and appears to be relatively high at the north sea of Chagui-Do, which is open to the ocean, while it is remarkably reduced at the rear sea of Chagui-Do because of its blocking effect on incident waves. In the summer, the significant wave height is higher at the south sea, and it is dominated by the swell waves, which is contributed by the strong south-west wind. The magnitude of significant wave height is the largest in the winter and the lowest in the spring. Annual average of the significant wave height is distinctively high at the west sea close to the Chagui-Do coast, due to a steep variation of water depth and corresponding wave focusing effect. The seasonal and spatial distribution of the wave period around Chagui-Do sea reveals very similar characteristics to the significant wave height. It is suggested that the west sea close to the Chagui-Do coast is the mast promising site for wave power generation.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.197-200
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• 1999

An extension of the modified leap-frog scheme is made to solve the nonlinear shallow-water equations. In the extended model. the physical dispersion of the Boussinesq equations is replaced by the numerical dispersion resulted from the leap-frog finite difference scheme. The model is used to simulate propagations of a solitary wave over a constant water depth and a linearly varying water depth. Obtained numerical results are compared with available analytical and other numerical solutions. A reasonable agreement is observed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.281-289
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• 1994

An equation set of nonlinear model for regular/irregular waves presented in this study can be applied to waves travelling from deep water to shallow water, which is different from the Boussinesq equations. The presented equations completely satisfy the linear dispersion relationship and when expanded, they are proven to be consistent with the Boussinesq equation of several types. In addition, the position of averaged velocity below the still water level is estimated based on the linear wave theory.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2004.08a
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• pp.303-309
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• 2004

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.149-155
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• 1999

A treatment of wave breaking is included in the extended Boussinesq equations of Nwogu. A spatially distributed source function and sponge layers are used to reduce the reflected waves in the computa¬tional domain. The model uses fourth-order Adams predictor-corrector method to advance in time, and discretizes first-order spatial derivatives to fourth-order accuracy, and thus reducing all truncation errors to a level smaller than the dispersive terms. The generated wave fields are found to be good and the corresponding wave heights are very close to their target values. For the tests of wave breaking, although agreement is considered to be reasonable, wave heights in the inner surf zone are over-predicted. This indicates the breaking parameters in the model should be adjusted.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.136-145
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• 2007

When waves propagating over an underwater shoal break at the top of the shoal, wave heights are drastically decreased in the downstream breaking zone, but a secondary current shooting downstream with strong velocity can be induced by the breaking waves themselves. In the case that an offshore structure is placed in the breaking zone, the estimation of wave farce purely based on the visible wave height may cause an under-design of the structure. Thus, for the safe design of the structure, the breaking wave induced current should be necessarily considered in the comprehensive estimation of design load. In the present study, Boussinesq equation model to calculate the wave height distribution and breaking wave induced current was set up and applied to the scheme of a hydraulic model test previously undertaken. Based on the results of the Boussinesq model, fluid forces acting on the model structure were calculated and compared with the experimental results. The importance of the breaking wave induced current was quantitatively assessed by comparing fluid forces with or without current.

• 한국방재학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2010.02a
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• pp.107.2-107.2
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• 2010

본 연구에서는 지진해일의 전파 과정을 모의함에 있어 선형 천수방정식의 수치분산을 이용하는 기법이 아닌 선형 Boussinesq 방정식을 직접 차분하는 유한차분기법을 제안하였다. 기법의 정확성을 검증하기 위하여 Gauss 분포의 초기 자유수면변위를 갖는 문제에 착용하여 선형 Boussinesq 방정식의 해석해와 비교하였다. 그 결과 기존의 선형 천수방정식을 차분화한 수치모형에 비하여 정확한 결과를 제공하였고 분산보정기법을 이용한 수치모형과 동일한 정확도를 보였으나 본 수치모형을 이용했을 때 계산 효율이 개선되었다.