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Application of Boussinesq Equation Model for the Breaking Wave Behavior around Underwater Shoals  

Chun, In-Sik (Department of Civil Engineering, Konkuk University)
Kim, Gui-Dong (Department of Civil Engineering, Konkuk University)
Sim, Jae-Seol (Coastal and Harbor Engineering Division, Korea Ocean Research and Development Institute)
Publication Information
Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers / v.18, no.2, 2006 , pp. 154-165 More about this Journal
Abstract
In the present study, a numerical model using Boussinesq equation is set up to predict the interacted equilibrium between waves and their induced currents in the occurrence of breaking waves over an underwater shoal, and the numerical results are compared with results of existing hydraulic experiments. A sensitivity analysis has been done to find out appropriate values of breaking wave parameters with the result (regular wave case) of Vincent and Briggs (1989)’ experiment. Then the numerical model is applied to the irregular wave cases of the experiment and the hydraulic model test of Ieodo which is a natural undersea shoal. The results show that a strong current forms in the wave direction at the downstream side of the shoals, causing the attenuation of wave heights there. The calculated wave heights generally show a similar pattern with the measured data.
Keywords
Boussinesq equation; mild slope equation; wave induced current; underwater shoal; nonlinear wave propagation; breaking wave;
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