Browse > Article

Hydraulic Experiments and Numerical Analysis for Wave Breaking of Regular Waves over a Shelf Region  

Lee, Jong-In (Water Resources Research Department, KICT)
Patrick Lynett (Department of Civil Engineering, Texas A&M University)
Kim, Young-Taek (Water Resources Research Department, KICT)
Publication Information
Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers / v.18, no.2, 2006 , pp. 166-177 More about this Journal
Abstract
The accuracy impact of using high-order Boussinesq-type model as compared to the typical order model is examined in this paper. The multi-layer model developed by Lynett and Liu(2004a) is used for simulating of wave breaking over a shelf region. The nonlinearity of the waves tested, ${k_0}{A_0}$, ranges from 0.029 to 0.180. The overall agreement between the two-layer model and the hydraulic experiments are quite good. The one-layer model overshoals the wave near the breakpoint, while the two-layer model shoals at a rate more consistent with the experimental data.
Keywords
hydraulic experiment; Boussinesq equations; multi-layer model; wave breaking;
Citations & Related Records
연도 인용수 순위
  • Reference
1 Agnon, Y., Madsen, P.A. and Schaffer, H. (1999). A new approach to high order Boussinesq models. J. of Fluid Mechanics, 399, 319-333   DOI
2 Hsiao, S.C. and Liu, P.L.-F. (2002). Nonlinear water waves propagating over a permeable bed. Proc. Royal Society of London A., 485, 1291-1322
3 Lee, C.H., Cho, Y.-S. and Yum, K.-D. (2001). Internal generation of waves for extended Boussinesq equations. Coastal Engineering, 42, 155-162   DOI   ScienceOn
4 Lynett, P., Wu, T.R. and Liu, P.L.-F. (2002). Modeling wave runup with depth integrated equations. Coastal Engineering, 46(2), 89-107   DOI   ScienceOn
5 Wei, G., Kirby, J.T., Grilli, S.T. and Sinha, A. (1999). Generation of waves in Boussinesq models using a source function method. Coastal Engineering, 36, 271-299   DOI   ScienceOn
6 Wei, G. and Kirby, J.T. (1995). A time-dependent numerical code for extended Boussinesq equations. J. of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 120, 251-261
7 Madsen, P.A., Bingham, H.B. and Liu, H. (2002). A new Boussinesq model for fully nonlinear waves from shallow to deep water. J. of Fluid Mechanics, 462, 1-30
8 Hsiao, S.C., Lynett, P., Hwung, H.H. and Liu, P.L.-F. (2005). Numerical simulations of nonlinear short waves using the multi-layer model. J. of Engineering Mechanics, 131(3), 231-243   DOI   ScienceOn
9 Kennedy, A.B., Chen, Q., Kirby, J.T. and Dalrymple, R.A. (2000). Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation, breaking and runup: One dimension. J. of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 126, 39-47   DOI   ScienceOn
10 Lynett, P. and Liu, P.L.-F. (2004b). Linear analysis of the multi-Layer model. Coastal Engineering, 51(6), 439-454   DOI   ScienceOn
11 Gobbi, M.F., Kirby, J.T. and Wei, G. (2000). A fully nonlinear Boussinesq model for surface waves. Part II. Extension to $O(kh)^4$. J. of Fluid Mechanics, 405, 182-210
12 Lynett, P. and Liu, P.L.-F. (2004a). A two-Layer approach to water wave modeling. Proc. Royal Society of London A., 460, 2637-2669
13 Madsen, P.A. and Sorensen, O.R. (1992). A new form of the Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics. Part II: A slowly varying bathymetry. Coastal Engineering, 18, 183-204   DOI   ScienceOn
14 Peregrine, D.H. (1967). Long waves on a beach. J. of Fluid Mechanics, 27, 815-827   DOI
15 Wei, G., Kirby, J.T., Grilli, S.T. and Subramanya, R. (1995). A fully nonlinear Boussinesq model for surface waves. Part I. Highly nonlinear unsteady waves. J. of Fluid Mechanics, 294, 71-92   DOI   ScienceOn
16 Wu, T.Y. (1981). Long waves in ocean and coastal waters. J. of Engineering Mechanics Division, ASCE, 107, 501-522
17 Nwogu, O. (1993). Alternative form of Boussinesq equations for nearshore wave propagation. J. of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 119(6), 618-638   DOI   ScienceOn
18 Liu, P.L.-F. (1994). Model Equations for Wave Propagation from Deep to Shallow Water. In Advanced in Coastal Engineering (ed. P.L.-F. Liu), 1, 125-157, World Scientific
19 Lynett, P. (2002). A multi-layer approach to modeling generation, propagation, and interaction of water waves. Ph.D. Thesis, Cornell University, USA