• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.4
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• pp.373-380
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• 2019

There are many differences in tran-epidermal water loss (TEWL), skin water contents, and skin elasticity, etc between face and forearm skin. In particular, our previous studies showed that elasticity of face skin was significantly differed from forearm depending on full hydration. So, we have studied the surface properties of corneocyte using atomic force microscopy (AFM), assuming that the differences between face and forearm skin would be associated with the surface properties of corneocyte. The surface roughness of corneocyte and villus-like projections (VPs) were measured. Furthermore, qualitative comparison among the surface of face, forearm, and lip corneocyte was performed. Corneocytes were collected by tape-stripping on both face and forearm of 8 volunteers, and the bottom surface of corneocytes were measured at 40 ㎛ × 40 ㎛ using AFM. Results showed that the lower surface roughness of face corneocytes was 388.34 ± 86.189 nm, and that of forearm corneocytes was 662.27 ± 224.257 nm, which confirmed that the lower surface of forearm corneocytes was more rough than that of face corneocytes (p < 0.001). Compared with the amount of VPs, lip corneocytes were the highest followed by face corneocytes, and forearm corneocytes were the lowest. From these results, it is conclued that the surface properties of corneocytes are somewhat involved in the property differences between the face and the forearm skin and VPs can be a useful parameter for the study of corneocyte by site. In addition, AFM is a very useful device for the comparative study of nano-structural differences on the surface of corneocytes. More studies can lead to develop a new evaluation method of corneocytes.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.99-104
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• 2007

The skin barrier function is one of the vital functions. Horny layer and epidermis among various skin layers play an important role in protecting body from environmental insults. Stratum corneum is completely formed by differentiation processes from the basal layer and newly formed corneocytes push the older ones from skin surface. In this study we investigated changes of various parameters - capacitance, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), pH and amount of removed corneocytes - according to the stratum corneum's depth. We removed the stratum corneum using tape stripping technique. We found that uppermost stratum corneum play an important role in skin surface moisturization and lower stratum corneum in protecting transepidermal water loss. In addition, skin pH is more acidic than surface pH. In the stratum corneum, skin pH is mote acidic in the deeper layer. Furthermore amount of removed corneocyte is also decreased according to depth because of stronger cell-cell union strength. From these results we suggest that stratum corneum has different characteristics depending on their position.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.81-87
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• 2018

The objective of this article is to provide analytical tools for the scattering of stratum corneum (SC) and to check whether the optical clearing agents (OCAs) could be applied in optics affecting the scattering reduction. Dark field images of tape striped corneocyte separates scattered light of the SC from others in vitro. Several optical clearing agents were tested to reduce the scattering. Physical properties of SC such as water contents, keratin configuration and volume after OCAs treatment were investigated by FT-IR and 3D laser microscope. Several reducing sugars, monomeric sugars, sugar alcohol, and hyaluronic acid, which were used as humectants in cosmetic field, also reduced scattering. However, unlike dehydration in optics, water penetrated into the keratin in SC and scattering was decreased at low concentration of OCAs. In that condition, the volume of corneocyte was increased and stiffness seemed to decrease. The analyzing of tape-stripped SC, showed the change of optical and physical properties of corneocyte by optical clearing agents. The hydration of SC layer by optical clearing agents decreased the scattering of corneocyte and thus improved the skin appearance and moisturizing effect, which are important benefits in the cosmetic field and could provide new possibility to develop skin care study targeting at SC.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.27-39
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• 1996

Recently, in vitro stratum curneum model was a useful tool to evaluate the skin condition such as tranespidermal water loss, skin hydration and etc.. In this study to evaluate the alteration of SC with aging in hairless mouse, we measured TEWL using in vitro SC model, SC lipid, and outer corneocytes area. Although the total SC lipid was rich about 30% in 8 week old mouse compared with that of 82 week old mouse, the TEWL values were higher in the former than that of the latter. The outer corneocytes area was 559 $\pm$ 65 $mu extrm{m}$2 in 8 week old mouse and 755 $\pm$ 56 ${\mu}{\textrm}{m}$2 in 82 week old mouse. So the barrier function was reinforced with aging. This result suggested that the reinforced barrier function is one of the defense systems against the outer enviornment and the decreased skin function with aging.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.413-420
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• 2016

Hydroxy acid has been used to enhance anti-aging and skin moisturization by peeling effect on the skin stratum corneum, and thus it has been widely used in topical products and cosmetic products. Among them, the effect that appears most effectively in a short period of time has been reported to be effected by the pH of the cosmetic formulations. However, there are many difficulties in use due to irritation caused by pH and concerns about side effects. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of applying cosmetics with (1) varying concentrations, (2) types and (3) pH of hydroxy acid on human skin. 22 healthy adults were stained with DHA (dihydroxyacetone) and DC (dansyl chloride) on the forearm, and the skin exfoliation effect was measured after application of the test products. (1) The application of GA (glycolic acid) increased the desquamation by concentration dependent. (2) the test product prepared with neutral pH showed no exfoliation effect. In contrast, SA (salicylic acid) showed a statistically significant exfoliation effect at both acidic pH and neutral pH. (3) The neutral pH SA showed excellent exfoliation effect on bot DHA and DC stained stratum corneum. These results suggest that it is possible to manufacture safe cosmetics without damaging the skin barrier, providing an opportunity to use cosmetics that are expected to exfoliate to people, whose skin is sensitive to pH.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.4
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• pp.355-364
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• 2023

Lips have a unique desquamation process and moisturizing properties that are structurally different from ordinary skin. In particular, the turnover cycle of the stratum corneum is fast and the outermost stratum corneum is thin, so the amount of keratin is relatively high, and there are no skin appendages, so it is very vulnerable to maintaining moisture. In this study, we set three targets for lip care : stratum corneum, moisture, and barrier, and aimed to identify the potential of three target-specific ingredients for lips improvement. We confirmed the exfoliating, moisturizing, and barrier improvement efficacy of three target-specific ingredients which also have mild exfoliating effect. Specifically, we verified that Bacillus clausii extract improved skin exfoliation, gluconolactone improved skin moisture retention, and serine reinforced skin barrier function. To test the in vivo efficacy of the complex composed of three target-specific ingredients on the human lips, the lip balm manufactured with non-irritating range of concentration was applied, and we confirmed that it was effective in improving lip exfoliation·moisturizing·elasticity·wrinkles. Consequently, it was confirmed that the beauty and health indicators of the lips could be improved through the exfoliation-moisturization-barrier care of the lips and these ingredients were applied to LG H&H LIPCERIN products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.193-198
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• 2010

Melanin is synthesized by the melanocytes in basal layer of epidermis and distributed over all the layers of skin including corneocytes in stratum corneum, outermost layer of the epidermis. Melanin of corneocytes was stained using Fontana-Masson method and quantified by image analysis. The correlation between melanin contents and skin color value was estimated in the skin of 71 Korean women. Melanin covering area (MCA) showed good correlation with $L^*$ value and $ITA^{\circ}$ (Individual Typology Angle) (r = 0.6049, 0.6651, respectively). MCA can be used as new parameter for skin color study and has potential application for evaluating the efficacy of the skin whitening cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.75-82
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• 2012

Natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) are hydrophilic and water-soluble components in stratum corneum of the skin. NMFs absorb water from outer environment and enhance the water-holding capacity of stratum corneum and thereby, prevent the dryness and increase flexibility and plasticity of skin. NMFs are mainly composed of amino acids and their metabolites that are produced from the degradation of filaggrin. Here we established a simultaneous quantification method for 22 amino acids in tape-stripped stratum corneum samples using UPLC-PDA. With this method, we analyzed amino acid contents from tape-stripped stratum corneum samples of forearm and forehead regions from 15 healthy volunteers. Amino acid contents of inner (or upper) region were higher than outer (or lower) region of stratum corneum. Amino acid contents of stratum corneum of forearm were higher by 1.5 fold than forehead region. Of note, total amino acid contents were significantly and inversely correlated with trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), an index for skin barrier function. Especially, Ser, Glu, Gly, Ala and Thr were determined to positively affect skin mositurizing activities. In conclusion, we could demonstrate that amino acid contents of stratum corneum are closely linked with skin barrier and moisturizing function, providing an important and fundamental methodology for the study of amino acids in skin physiology.

• Journal of Veterinary Clinics
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.142-146
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to establish experimental canine skin barrier disruption model in dog. The study was designed to investigate the predictive properties of acetone damage using as effect parameters transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and stratum corneum (SC) hydration. To compare the structures of SC intercellular lipids in normal and acetone damaged skin, TEM observations were performed. Six clinically normal, male Beagles without dermatological problems were chosen for this study. Acetone damage was performed at 48hrs after clipping. Efficacy measurements for TEWL and skin hydration were performed before ($t_1$) and after ($t_2$) damage in a temperature- and humidity-controlled room ($2{0\sim}22^{\circ}C$, 50-60%). TEWL and SC hydration values were decreased in the acetone damaged model compared with non damaged skin. In TEM observation of acetone damaged sample, the intercellular lipid lamellae exhibit abnormal and incomplete structure compared with those of normal skin. It seems that acetone damage would be one of canine skin epidermal barrier disruption model for the study of canine atopic dermatitis (AD) as well as dry skin in veterinary dermatology research.

• The Korean Journal of Food And Nutrition
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.388-396
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• 2003

The freeze dried young antler residue was extracted by proteases and hydrochloric acid(HCl). The young antler was extracted by water at 50$^{\circ}C$ and the residue was reacted by proteases for 5 hours at 50$^{\circ}C$. The extraction rate of its residue was 32.8%(absorbance 3.61 at 280nm) of bacteria protease, 23.8%(absorbance 0.69) of papain, and 31.2% (absorbance 2.96) of pepsin. The young antler was extracted by boiling water and the residue was reacted by proteases for 5 hours at 50$^{\circ}C$. The extraction rate of its residue was 45.0%(absorbance 3.61) of bacteria protease, 30.4%(absorbance 0.33) of papain, and 51.2% (absorbance 2.77) of pepsin. The result of HPLC analysis reveals that in 50$^{\circ}C$ water extract and boiling water extract, all high molecular peak was reduced under MW 1,000 by proteases. The result from the extract of young antler residue reacted by HCl for 5 hours at 50$^{\circ}C$ shows that its extraction rate was 45% (absorbance 0.78) in concentration of 0.1N HCl, 61% (absorbance 1.82) in 0.2N, 81% (absorbance 2.29) in 0.4N, and 82.0% (absorbance 3.28) in 2.0N. The result of HPLC analysis also reveals that in the extract by 0.8N HCl, the peak of about MW 70,000 accounted for 78% in total. Protein content of the extract by 0.8N HCl was 8.2%, and content of amino acid was 81.6%, ash was 1.3%, and mineral contents were 0.1 % of Ca, 2.3% of P, 0.8 % of Mg, 3.4% of Na, 0.002% of F by dry base.