• Food Science and Preservation
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.347-357
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• 2023

The succulent plant Aeonium sedifolium leaves contain several compounds that are of interest for their cosmetic uses on the skin. This study measured the inhibitory effects of enzyme production and antioxidant, astringent effects and skin wrinkles using Aeonium sedifolium leaves (ASL). The total phenolics compounds (TPC) content of ASL under optimal extraction conditions was 34.49 mg/g for hot water extract (ASLW) and 61.64 mg/g for 50% ethanol extract (ASLE). The ASLW and ASLE extracts were freeze-dried, powdered, and used as solids. TPC content, 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazy (DPPH) radical scavenging activity, and 2,2'-azinobis (3-ethylben-zothiazoline 6-sulfonate) (ABTS) radical inhibition of the ASL phenolics were tested. The DPPH radical scavenging activities of ASLW and ASLE were tested at a TPC of 100 ㎍/mL. ABTS radical inhibition showed antioxidant activity of 100.00% in ASLW and ASLE, and the antioxidant protection factor of ASLW and ASLE was 1.07 and 1.22, respectively. The thiobarbituric acid-reactive substance (TBARS) inhibitory activity of ASLW and ASLE was 77.00%. The elastase inhibitory activity of ASLE was 69.03%, and collagenase inhibition activity for ASLW and ASLE was 29.82% and 54.76%, respectively. The astringent effect of ASLE was 89.82% at a TPC of 200 ㎍/mL. Thus, we concluded that ASL has the potential as a functional cosmetic ingredient with anti-aging effects on the skin.

• Applied Chemistry for Engineering
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.222-227
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• 2012

In this study, nano-emulsion containing ethyl acetate fraction of Polygonum aviculare (P. aviculare) extract was prepared and skin permeability of the nano-emulsion was evaluated. Nano-emulsion was prepared using homogenizer and microfluidizer by the high-energy method. The droplet size and loading efficiency of nano-emulsion containing ethyl acetate fraction of P. aviculare extract were determined. The mean droplet size was 238 nm and the loading efficiency was more than 98%. The size distribution of nano-emulsion was a monodispersed form and nano-emulsion was more stable than that of using typical emulsion without using the microfluidizer. The in vitro skin permeation study of nano-emulsion containing ethyl acetate fraction of P. aviculare extract was carried out using Franz diffusion cells. Compared to 1,3-butylene glycol, nano-emulsion showed greater values of cumulative permeation of ethyl acetate fraction from P. aviculare extract. These results indicate that the stability and skin permeability of nano-emulsion containing ethyl acetate fraction of P. aviculare exerting anti-oxidative and anti-aging activities were enhanced.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.23 no.12
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• pp.1495-1500
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• 2013

The objective of this study was to evaluate the anti-melanogenic effects of Hizikia fusiforme (HF) fractions in ${\alpha}$-melanocyte stimulating hormone-induced B16F10 mouse melanoma cells. Ethanol extractions of Hizikia fusiforme (EEHF) were subjected to fraction by using dichloromethane (CFHF), ethyl acetate (EAFHF), butanol (BFHF), and water (WFHF). EEHF, CFHF, and EAFHF inhibited tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells in a dose-dependent manner. The melanin contents were inhibited by 40.5% and 33.2% in response to treatment with 50 ${\mu}g/ml$ of EEHF and CFHF, respectively. In addition, tyrosinase activities showed a 53.3% and 54.1% reduction in treatment with 50 ${\mu}g/ml$ of EEHF and CFHF. Western blotting analysis showed that EEHF, CFHF, and EAFHF inhibited tyrosinase, TRP-1, TRP-2, and MITF expression in a dose-dependent manner. In conclusion, these findings indicate that ethanol and dichloromethane fractions of Hizikia fusiforme, which inhibit melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity, are effective skin-whitening agents.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.797-806
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• 2018

This study attempted to investigate the effects of Paeonia Lactiflora Pallas (P. lactiflora) on the inhibition of oxygen free radical, anti-inflammation and MMP-1 inhibitory activity and examine its possibility as a functional cosmetic material. For test methods, the inhibition of oxygen free radical after measuring reactive oxygen species (ROS) in the cell, cytotoxicity assessment and anti-inflammation were measured, and MMP-1 inhibitory effects in the HDF cell were measured. According to the test, the inhibition of ROS was confirmed in RAW 264.7 and HDF cells. In terms of cytotoxicity assessment, 90% or higher cell viability was detected at $5/10{\mu}g/mL$ Paeonia Lactiflora Pallas extract while it was 80% or higher at other concentration levels in both RAW 264.7 and HDF cells. In addition, NO production was inhibited in the RAW 264.7 cell while MMP-1 was significantly inhibited in the HDF cell. The above results reveal a possibility of Paeonia Lactiflora Pallas extract as a functional cosmetic material after confirming the inhibition of ROS synthesis in the cell, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects by inhibiting NO synthesis, low toxicity on skin cells and anti-aging effect through MMP-1 inhibition.

• Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology
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• v.46 no.2
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• pp.198-204
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• 2014

Ultraviolet B (UV-B) irradiation is a negative factor that induces skin damage, inflammation, and aging. UVB irradiation induces the inflammatory response through interleukin (IL)-6 and IL-8 expression in keratinocytes. In addition, it induces the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the activation of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), which plays an important role in collagen 1 degradation in the extracellular matrix. We investigated the antiaging effects of five kinds of berry in human skin keratinocyte (HaCaT) cells using juice of black raspberry (Rubus occidentalis), blueberry wild (Vacciniun angustifolium) and cultivar (Vacciniun corymbosum), black chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa (Michx.) Elliott), and mulberry (Morus abla). HaCaT cells irradiated with UV-B exhibited increased ROS generation, as well as IL-6, IL-8, and MMP-1 gene expression, when compared to the control cells that were not irradiated with UV-B. However, pre-treatment of berry juice before UV-B irradiation significantly down-regulated the UV-B-induced ROS generation and inflammatory cytokine and MMP-1 expression. The results suggest that all berries have anti-aging effects including lowering inflammatory cytokine levels, ROS generation, and MMP-1 expression in HaCaT cells during UV-B irradiation.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09b
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• pp.12-25
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• 2003

L-camitine ($\beta$ -hydroxy-${\gamma}$ -trimethyl-ammoniumbutyric acid) is a small water-soluble molecule important in mammalian fat metabolism. It is essential for the normal oxidation of fatty acids by the mitochondria, and is involved in the trans-esterification and excretion of acyl-CoA esters. In this paper, to investigate the relationship between aging and L-camitine, we investigated the effects of in vitro MMP inhibition and activity and expression of UVA-induced MMP 1 in human skin fibroblasts. Fluorometric assays of the proteolytic activities of MMP-l were performed using fluorescent collagen substrates. ELISA (enzyme linked immuno sorbent assay), gelatin-substrate zymography, and RT-PCR ELISA techniques were used for the effects of L-camitine on MMP expression and activity, MMP mRNA expression in UVA irradiated fibroblast. L-camitine inhibited the activities of MMP-l in a dose-dependent manner and the $IC_{50}$/ values calculated from semi-log plots were 2.45mM, and L-carnitine showed strong inhibition on MMP-2 (gelatinase) activity in UVA irradiated fibroblast by zymography. Also, UVA induced MMP expression was reduced 40% by treated with L-carnitine, and MMP-l mRNA expression was reduced dose-dependent manner. Therefore L-carnitine was able to significantly inhibition the MMP activity, regulation of MMP expression in protein and mRNA level. All these results suggest that L-carnitine may be useful as new anti-aging cofactor for protection against UVA induced MMP expression and activity.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.1
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• pp.77-85
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• 2022

Retinaldehyde (RA), vitamin A derivative, is an intermediate between retinol and retinoic acid and has an excellent wrinkle improving effect. In this study, Drug-in-cyclodextrin-in-liposome (DCL) was used to enhance the stability and skin penetration of RA. The complex of RA and hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin (HP-β-CD) was prepared by the freeze-drying method, and the presence or absence of inclusion of retinal was confirmed by UV-Vis spectrometer, FT-IR and SEM images. RA was captured in HP-β-CD about 95.6% on 1 : 15 (w/w). The retinal-HP-β-CD complex was encapsulated in liposomes using a homomixer and microfluidizer, with an average particle size of 215 ± 4.2 nm and a zeta potential of -31.2 ± 0.5 mv. In the evaluation of the degradation stability of RA, degradation rate of RA-HP-β-CD-liposomes in water was 1.8% higher than RA-liposome (5.8%), RA-HP-β-CD complex (9.7%) and RA alone (37.6%). RA cream (0.05% RA) including RA-HP-β-CD-liposomes was prepared for clinical test with wrinkle-improving efficacy and skin dermis denseness evaluated for 2 or 4 weeks. RA cream showed a significant wrinkle improving effect without skin irritation. In conclusion, it was confirmed that the double stabilization technology using the DCL system contribu tes to the effect of improving skin wrinkles by increasing the stabilization of retinal.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.7-22
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• 1997

Inhibitory effects of 200 medicinal plants on elastase activity were screened. Among the 200 plants, six plant extracts exhibited more than 65% of inhibition on elastase activity by their total methanol extracts at 1, 000$\mu\textrm{g}$/$m\ell$ as a final concentration. For six active plants including Areca catechu, Cinnamonum cassia, Myristica frograns, Curcumma longa, Alponia katsumadai, and Dryopteris crassirrhizoma, the inhibitory effects of their comsituents were examined on the activity of human leukocyte elastase, hyaluronidase and lipid peroxidation. In lipid peroxidation assay using TBA method, three of the 6 plants including Curcumma longa, Areca Catechu and Alponia katsumadai exhibited more than 70% of inhibition at the concentration of 1, 000$\mu\textrm{g}$/$m\ell$, but only one plant, Areca Ctechu showed high inhibitory effect on hyaluronidase activity. The results suggest that medicinal plants showing several biological activities may be potent inhibitors of anti-aging process on skin and that might be useful for application in cosmetics.

• Korean Journal of Pharmacognosy
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.47-52
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• 2013

We invesitagat the effects of antioxidant and suppression of MMP-1 in UV-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) by schizandrin isolated from Schisandra chinensis. Ultrasonic technique was used to extract schizandrin from S. chinensis. The higher contents of schizandrin (6.34 mg/ml) in 70% EtOH extract obtained by ultrasonic treatment at 20 MHz for 2 h during 10 days. Schizandrin had antioxidant activities. Schizandrin (1-10 ${\mu}g/ml$) induced a significant dose-dependent decrease in the expression fo MMP-1 protein. These results suggest that schizandrin is a potential candidate for the prevention and treatment of skin aging.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.65 no.4
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• pp.277-286
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• 2022

Schizophragma hydrangeoides (S. hydrangeoides) is a vine endogenous to Jeju Island and Ulleungdo, where it grows attached to the foothills and rock surfaces. Previous research has mostly focused on the whitening effect of S. hydrangeoides leaf extract. In this study, we investigated S. hydrangeoides leaf extract further, and detected four phytochemicals in the extract: chlorogenic acid, quercetin-3-O-glucosyl-(1-2)-rhamnoside, quercetin-3-O-xylosyl-(1-2)-rhamnoside, and quercitrin. We pretreated human dermal fibroblast (HDFn) cells with previously established concentrations of the four compounds for 1 h before ultraviolet A (UVA) irradiation. Among the four compounds, quercetin-3-O-glucosyl-(1-2)-rhamnoside (Q-3-GR) best inhibited matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) levels. Thus, we investigated the protective effects of Q-3-GR on photoaging and its underlying mechanisms. Q-3-GR significantly reduced MMP-1 production and inhibited MMP-1 protein expression in UVA-irradiated HDFn cells. Furthermore, Q-3-GR increased procollagen type I production and protein expression. Q-3-GR exerted its anti-photoaging effects by downregulating the mitogen-activated protein kinase/ activator protein-1 signaling pathway, and upregulating the transforming growth factor-β/Smad signaling pathway. Thus, S. hydrangeoides leaf-derived Q-3-GR is a potential potent cosmetic ingredient for UV-induced skin aging.