• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.133-142
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• 1993

In a computer-controlling wave generating system. it is sometimes necessary to incorporate the discrete transfer operation of wave board into control circuit in order to control the system in a more delicate way. A numerical filter simulating the transfer operation of wave board in time domain is designed in the form of a discrete recursive filter. The filter was applied to some example board inputs f3r either regular or irregular wave conditions in order to evaluate the filter performance. The filter outputs were compared with the results of theoretical analysis or the discrete convolution method. showing their excellent agreements. The discrete realization of the filter presented hen is in fact of the bilinear transformation. It was shown that the transformation always avoids the aliasing errors, being surely applicable with a sufficient accuracy even for the band-unlimited transfer function of wave board.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.479-484
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• 2007

For calculation of wave field for design of coastal and port structures, generally the wind fields from inland observation record or the predicted waves from deep water wave transformation model are being used. However, for the first case, as we should revise the wave data adopting correcting parameters depending on the distance from the coast and location, it is difficult to extract water waves from wind field. Furthermore, for the second case, because of the calculation which executed under very large grid sizes in the wide domain, the simulation(wave transformation) implied uncertainty in the near shore area and shallow region. So it's difficult to obtain exact data from the simulation. Thus, in this study the calculation of wave field on shallow water is accomplished using the observed data of typhoon 'Maemi' in the Korea Eastern South sea. Moreover, for the accuracy of the calculated wave field, we compared and studied the observed data of wave height and direction on the vicinity of the Ulsan waters. It is proved that the results of this study is more accurate than the existing method with showing ${\pm}1.3%$ difference between observed and calculated wave height distribution in Ulsan waters

• 한국신재생에너지학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2011.05a
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• pp.164.1-164.1
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• 2011

Previously, many researchers assessed nearshore wave energy in two ways. The first is a simulation with respect to the offshore wave time series to validate the wave buoy data and the wave model results, and the other is to simulate the representative waves of typical seasonal wave conditions. The former requires enormous computational time and effort. The latter yields inspection on the patterns for the spatial and temporal distribution of nearshore wave energy but tends to underestimates the amount of wave energy in the nearshore region owing to the correlation between the significant wave height and wave period. $\ddot{O}$zger et al. (2004) derived the stochastic wave energy formulation by introducing a correction factor explicitly in terms of the covariance of the wave energy and significant wave height. In this study, a correction factor was applied for the assessment of nearshore wave energy obtained by numerical simulation of wave transformation with respect to representative waves.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.597-605
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• 2019

This paper proposes a novel method for efficient prediction of joint distributions of heights and periods of nonlinear ocean waves. The proposed novel method utilizes a transformed linear simulation which is based on a Hermite transformation model where the transformation is chosen to be a monotonic cubic polynomial, calibrated such that the first four moments of the transformed model match the moments of the true process. This proposed novel method is utilized to predict the joint distributions of wave heights and periods of a sea state with the surface elevation data measured at the Gulfaks C platform in the North Sea, and the novel method's accuracy and efficiency are favorably validated by using comparisons with the results from an empirical joint distribution model, from a linear simulation model and from a second-order nonlinear simulation model.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.42 no.12
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• pp.1125-1133
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• 2009

Evanescent modes which are the other solutions of the Laplace equation for the linear dispersion equation may affect the wave transformation especially when a water depth varies abruptly. In this study, the effects of evanescent modes for a three-dimensional depression of seabed are investigated by using the eigenfunction expansion method. A convergence test is first carried out by changing numbers of domains and evanescent modes. The wave transformation for various depressions of seabed is then calculated under condition that the solution of the eigenfunction expansion method is converged.

• Journal of Environmental Science International
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• v.15 no.9
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• pp.881-886
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• 2006

The purpose of this research is to examine the beach erosion prevention capability of submerged breakwaters under wave energy condition. To accomplish this objective, the computational domain was divided into two do-mains : the large and the detailed domain for the Song-Do beach. For each computational domain, numerical models for calculating transformation, wave induced current and beach erosion were used and also these numerical models were carefully applied to three experimental cases such as 1) the present beach condition, 2) the condition for which submerged breakwaters are installed about 240m from the shoreline of beach enlarged by artificial nourishments. The results of this research show that if storm waves attack the present beach, the erosion occurs widely all over the beach. However, when the submerged breakwaters are installed in addition to the artificial nourishments, storm waves can be adequately controlled and strong wave induced currents occur only around the submerged breakwaters resulting in the beach evolution appearing locally only at the western end of the beach.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.45-50
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• 1993

The phenomenon of wave diffraction due to structure is an important factor in the wave climate at the site As an approximation, the propagation characteristics of a regular wave train are usually used. instead of those of irregular waves. However, there are great differences between the diffraction coefficients of the irregular waves and monochromatic waves, as shown by Goda (1985). The spectral calculation method. one of the methods to deal with the transformation of random sea waves essentially consists of decomposing a spectrum of the irregular sea state Into various monochromatic components, and assembling the component results by linear superposition. Monoch romatic wave transformation model developed by Chen(1987) is used to make spectral calculation. These calculations agree closely with Goda et al. (1978)'s diffraction diagram for a thin semi-infinite breakwater.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.41-48
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• 2023

In this study, simplified linear numerical method that can simulate wave generation and transformation by a moving bottom is introduced. Numerical analysis is conducted in wave number domain after continuity equation, linear dynamic and kinematic free surface boundary conditions and linear kinematic bottom boundary condition are Fourier transformed, and the results are expressed in space domain by an inverse Fourier transform. In the wavenumber domain, the dynamic free water surface boundary condition and the kinematic free water surface boundary condition are numerically calculated, and the velocity potential in the mean water level (z = 0) satisfies the continuity equation and the kinematic bottom boundary condition. Wave generation and transformation are investigated when the triangular and rectangular shape of bottoms move periodically. The results of the simplified numerical method are compared with the results of previous analytical solutions and agree well with them. Stability of numerical results according to the calculation time interval (Δt) and the calculation wave number interval (Δk) was also investigated. It was found that the numerical results were appropriate when Δt ≤ T(period)/1000 and Δk ≤ π/100.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.553-563
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• 2008

If an arbitrary topography is approximated to a number of vertical steps, both variational approximation and eigenfunction expansion method can be used to compute linear wave transformation over the bottom. In this study a scatterer method associated with variational approximation is proposed to calculate reflection and transmission coefficients. Present method may be shown to be more simple and direct than the successive-application-matrix method by O'Hare and Davies. And Several numerical examples are given which are in good agreement with existing results.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.332-349
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• 2016

OLAFOAM is the powerful CFD code and is an expanded version of $OpenFOAM^{(R)}$, for wave mechanics simulation. The $OpenFOAM^{(R)}$ does provide many solvers to correspond to each object of the numerical calculation in a variety of fields. OLAFOAM's governing equation bases on VARANS (Volume-Averaged Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes) equation, and the finite volume method is applied to numerical techniques. The program is coded in C++ and run on the Linux operating system. First of all, in this study, OLAFOAM was validated for 1) wave transformation inside porous structure under bore and regular wave conditions, 2) wave transformation by submerged breakwater under regular wave condition, and 3) regular wave transformation and resultant vertical velocity distribution under current by comparison with existing laboratory measurements. Hereafter, this study, which is almost no examination carried out until now, analyzed closely variation characteristics of water surface level, wave height, frequency spectrum, breaking waves, averaged velocity and turbulent kinetic energy around porous submerged breakwater in the wave and current coexisting field for the case of permeable or impermeable rear beach. It was revealed that the wave height fluctuation according to current direction(following or opposing) was closely related to the turbulent kinetic energy, and others.