• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.1 no.2
• /
• pp.154-159
• /
• 1999

In this study, for different test methods of the performance of sewing threads were used to evaluate the sewability of 10 different industrial threads. Sewability evaluations related to the breakage of thread during sewing operation were investigated by seam length and fabric thickness method (Test 1), thread tension method (Test 2), strength retention method (Test 3), and backward sewing method(Test 4), and discussed. Two of the methods, Test 1 and Test 2, simulated very harsh sewing conditions which each thread could accept as an evaluation of its sewability. Core spun thread ranked with the best sewability generally and followed by air jet textured (ATY) thread. Spun thread was superior to the filament thread in sewing thread type. In general, there was a high degree of correlation in the results of Test 1 and Test 2. The order of sewing thread by sewability test 1 was polyester spun thread, cotton thread, and p/c core spun thread. The order of sewing thread by test 2 was polyester spun thread, and p/c core spun thread. Cotton threads and cotton blended threads performed better in Test 3, and ATY threads and core spun threads in Test 4.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.40 no.10
• /
• pp.177-189
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study was to develop a suitable jacket pattern for elderly women. The subjects were two women of the ages of 65-70, who had different bust size. To reflect the ready made pattern drafting systems, 4 industrial patterns were selected. After analyzing the problems of these patterns, a new jacket pattern was proposed. The results were as follows : 1) The amount of appropriate ease in fitted jacket for elderly women was about 10cm at the bust circumference, 10∼12cm at the hip circumference and the height of sleeve cap was AH/3+0.5cm. 2) Considering an enlargement of waist and abdomen, difference between front and back size was 2cm on the bust line, 6-8cm on the waist and hip line. 3) Because of the shape of concavity of back-waist, center back line in the pattern was folded by 0.5cm from center back waist toward side seam for manipulation. 4) The new jacket pattern was compared with the existing pattern through the wearing test by sensory evaluation. It showed that the fit and comfort of experimental pattern was superior to those of the existing pattern.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
• /
• v.12 no.12
• /
• pp.5393-5397
• /
• 2011

The compressing-cutting device is used for manufacturing nano tube. the purpose of this study is to design and manufacture the compressing-cutting device witch has safety and stable performance. The most important core technology, in nano tube manufacturing, is to seam the each end of tube with appropriate pressure and to cut it off into the two part safely not to leak injected medium. Since the compressing pressure and the cutoff speed make the quality of nano tube, they are very important. This study will show the processes of design and manufacturing of compressing-cutting device.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.63 no.2
• /
• pp.29-44
• /
• 2013

This study is about the periodic characteristics of Wonsam in the Joseon Dynasty. Wonsam include the Danryeong-shaped Wonsam in the beginning, the compound Wonsam in a period of transition and the stereotyped Wonsam in the late Joseon Dynasty. The formative characteristics of Wonsam are divided into four stages. The first stage of the Wonsam is from the 15th to 16th century. The shape of Wonsam began to form and it was similar to one of Danryeong during this time. The formative characteristics of the first Wonsam included collars that looked like one of Danryeong, side pleats(called Moo) with multiple inner folds, straight cylinder-shaped sleeves, and a belt tied with the Wonsam. There were various fabrics that were used for the Wonsam from this stage. Second stage of the Wonsam is from the early 17th to mid 17th century. This period marked the beginning of the transition of the Wonsam and it served as a stepping-stone to the development stage in the Joseon Dynasty. The characteristics of the transitional Wonsam were a complex combination of the Danryeong and Wonsam. During this period, the Wonsam went through many changes and forms in a short period of time. Third stage of the Wonsam is from the mid 17th to early 19th century. The Wonsam was developed at this stage. The developed Wonsam went through a period of transition equipped with a stable form. The formative characteristics of Wonsam during this period included collars that faced each other, big and wide sleeves with multicolored stripes, Hansam, curve-edged side seam and the side pleats(Moo) with multiple inner folds had disappeared. It was a turning point from the single-layered clothes to double layered clothes and from dark blue to green color appeared at this time. The fabric patterns of this stage tended to consist of more simplified silk pattern. The fourth stage of the Wonsam is from the late 19th to 20th century. The Wonsam was expanded at this stage. The formative characteristics and fabrics were typically used for the standard Wonsam and were divided into two types; as a ceremonial robe used in courts and a wedding ceremonial robe for the common people. Phenomena such as sewing of double-layered clothes as one and straight-edged side seam during the late Joseon period developed into simpler and more practical fashion culture.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.21 no.2
• /
• pp.285-298
• /
• 2012

Considerable number of women are enjoying swimming, however, the chest-region of swimsuits including cup inserts are not stable during swimming. The purpose of this study was to explore alternate designs and methods of stabilizing the breast cup to the swimmer's body by using 3D technology to design and position the pad and cup pattern of the swimming suit. To position the pad optimally, a 3D pattern of a nude woman was divided into blocks and different reduction rates were applied to blocks around the outlines of the breast. Two types of 3D patterns were developed. The first, referred to as the 'basic 3D pattern' provided for the curved surface of the breast point to be maintained with the remaining slack distributed evenly along the neckline, armhole and side seam. The second, referred to as the '1/3 shoulder moved 3D pattern' ignored the curved nature of the breast point by overlapping, with the resulting position of the shoulder strip moved toward the center. Three women of corresponding size and body shape evaluated the two 3D pattern designs as well as the conventional 2D pattern style of swimsuit. Respondents rated the'the basic 3D pattern' design highest in terms of stability and easy of movement in the chest region.

• Journal of Korea Multimedia Society
• /
• v.11 no.2
• /
• pp.153-162
• /
• 2008

We propose a novel image inpainting method composed of two parts: band matching and seamless cloning. In band matching, a band enclosing the boundary of a missing region is compared to those from the other parts of the image. The inner area of the minimum difference band is then copied to the missing region. Even though this band matching results in successful inpainting in many practical applications, brightness discontinuity (a seam) may appear between the filled missing region and its neighborhood. We apply seamless cloning to remove such discontinuity between the two regions. However, since this basic method using one patch may not deal with cases where there are abrupt changes of color or brightness along the boundary, we furthermore devise one more step: target sub-division. The target area is subdivided into small sub-areas, and the band matching and seamless cloning are applied to each of them. The multiple results from the sub-division are then ordered according to inpainting quality, which is measured based on the edge map or discontinuity map along the boundary band.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.53 no.7
• /
• pp.139-146
• /
• 2003

This study was aimed at analyzing a characteristics of the sewing machines and analyzing the effective sewing time in the garment manufacture process, therefore to obtain the basic data concerned with the sewing. operation standardization. The two methods were experimented. First, two garment factories established in Seoul and Geonggi province were randomly selected for the analyzing the sewing speed of the sewing operator for the optimized sewing speed using the equipment of Digital Tachometer HT4100. Second, five garment factories established in Seoul and Geonggi province were randomly selected to analyze the required time data to reach the fixed sewing speed using the lock stitch sewing machine which was used in the sewing factories. The results are divided into 3 categories as follows; 1) Survey results for the optimized sewing speed : The sewing operations of 10~20 cm range were most frequently selected in seam constructions in Korean sewing factories, and the sewing speed of 2,500 R.P.M was most used; 2) Required time to reach the fixed sewing speed using the lock stitch sewing machine : The mean of required time to the fixed sewing speed of 2.500 R.P.M was 3.5 second, and the mean of the real-sewing length during the 3.5 second was 43.8 cm ; 3) Analysis of the optimized sewing speed calculated using these results : The optimized sewing speed for the sewing manufacturers of the upward of 43.8 cm was 2,500 R.P.M. and for the sewing manufacturers of the below of 42.2 cm, the optimized sewing speed was 2.450 R.P.M.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.17 no.6
• /
• pp.1013-1019
• /
• 2015

As the interest in leisure and health increases, the domestic outdoor wear industry becomes bigger. The waterproofness of fabrics does not ensure the waterproofness of garments because of the stitch holes during the sewing process even with the seam sealing tapes. Thus the water leakage often becomes a problem during the end use. Still companies use fabrics waterproofness data for garments marketing because they are simple to run the test, less expensive than the whole garment testing, and easy to achieve the quality control. In this study the rain tower system for evaluating the waterproofness of garments has been developed and the waterproofness of the selected waterproof and breathable garments in the market were tested. The rain tower was consisted of rain tower room, rainfall forming system and measurement system. Two different levels of rainfall can be simulated with this system(100l/m²/hr and 450l/m²/hr). Jackets in the market have been tested at two different rainfall conditions. The temperature and humidity data inside jackets didn't provide much information on the waterproofness at severe rainfall condition(450l/m²/hr, 1 hour). However, water leakage was detected on the cotton undershirt inside jacket. 5 out of 8 jackets passed the normal rainfall condition(100l/m²/hr, 30 minutes). The newly developed rain tower system was able to evaluate the waterproofness of the jacket seams. It is recommended the further study on the detailed test conditions for the end use of the waterproof and breathable garments.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.45 no.3
• /
• pp.23-31
• /
• 2007

This study was conducted to reproduce the four-piece bodice pattern of a ladies' costume of the 1890's for Korean women in their twenties with a standard body type and average size. Eighteen four-piece bodice patterns of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. The front width of the bodice was wider than the back width. The front bust line of the bodice was wider than the sum of the back bust line, the side back bust line and the under-arm gore bust line. The front waist line of the bodice was wider than the sum of the back waist line, the side back waist line and the under-arm gore waist line. The angles of the two waist darts of the bodice were very big but the legs of the dart were too short. The center front line of the bodice was oblique and curved. The angle of the back shoulder line of the bodice was bigger than the angle of front shoulder line. The shoulder seam line of the bodice was not placed on the top of the shoulder but behind the shoulder. The pattern characteristics of the bodice created a woman's silhouette that emphasized the volume of the bust, a chicken breast and a slim waist. The study pattern which had the characteristics of the four-piece bodice of the 1890's was designed like for Korean women in their twenties who have a standard body type and an average size through modifications based on the evaluation of two dressing occasions. The study pattern was evaluated to have the silhouette of the 1890's and to fit Korean women.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.23 no.1
• /
• pp.129-141
• /
• 2021

This study investigated fabrics, washing and cares, design, pattern, subsidiary materials, and sewing methods with a focus on the functional outers using moisture-permeable waterproof fabric as a shell; in addition, each element was analyzed for differences depending on fabric type. The characteristics of 34 outers were investigated through labels, online product introductions, visual inspection, observations from two experts with more than 30 years experience and wear tests. Moisture-permeable waterproof fabrics used for the outer were classified into two types; in addition, the shell of the high-density fabric and the 2 & 3-layer fabrics had different characteristics. Various fabrics, detailed designs, and three-dimensional patterns suitable for each part of the human body were used to improve functionality. In addition, various subsidiary materials and sewing methods were used to form an organic relationship. The same washing and cares, patterns and subsidiary materials were used regardless of fabric type; however, the fabric type influenced the detailed design and sewing. The outers with high-density fabric had a loose fit, short placket, e-banded cuffs, lock-stitch, and lock-stitch+binding. However, the outer with 2 & 3 layer fabric had a slim fit, hood width adjustment, zippered pockets, cuffs with tab, seamless adhesive sewing such as laminating, lock-stitch+ seam-sealing, and welding.