The Evaluation of Sewability for Sewing Threads -In Relation to the Breakage of Sewing Threads During Sewing Operation-

재봉사의 가봉성 평가 -재봉사의 사절을 중심으로-

In this study, for different test methods of the performance of sewing threads were used to evaluate the sewability of 10 different industrial threads. Sewability evaluations related to the breakage of thread during sewing operation were investigated by seam length and fabric thickness method (Test 1), thread tension method (Test 2), strength retention method (Test 3), and backward sewing method(Test 4), and discussed. Two of the methods, Test 1 and Test 2, simulated very harsh sewing conditions which each thread could accept as an evaluation of its sewability. Core spun thread ranked with the best sewability generally and followed by air jet textured (ATY) thread. Spun thread was superior to the filament thread in sewing thread type. In general, there was a high degree of correlation in the results of Test 1 and Test 2. The order of sewing thread by sewability test 1 was polyester spun thread, cotton thread, and p/c core spun thread. The order of sewing thread by test 2 was polyester spun thread, and p/c core spun thread. Cotton threads and cotton blended threads performed better in Test 3, and ATY threads and core spun threads in Test 4.