• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.49-57
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• 1999

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background and the traditional culture about dress of Bouyei People of Guizhou Province. The resuits of the study ara as follows. 1. Women's dress and adorment can be categorized into three styles. In the Zhenning, Guanling and Puding regions and northwestern areas of Guizhou Province, women usually wear blouses with overlapping necks, batik pleated skirts and long aprons. They also wear embroidered kerchiefs or turbans. In the suburbs of Guiyand City and Southwestern Guizhou Province, women like to wear blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the front, trousers, blue or black and white check cloth kerchiefs. In the Luoping region, women wear blouses with loose sleeves and buttons arranged diagonally on the front and loose-legged trousers. 2. Men usually wear shirts with buttons down the front or arranged on the front, trousers and calottes. 3. Most of their dress materials are white and coloured handwoven, tie-dyed or batik cloth. The exquisite technique of batik and tie-dyeing has a long history, which began to become prevalent in the Song Dynasty. 4. Now, people use all kinds of techniques to make their dress and adornment, including batik, tie-dyeing, cross-stitch, brocade and embroidery, which reflect their peculiar aesthetic temperament.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.71-82
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to correctly understand the costume of Qing dynasty in the court painting. The starting point of this study was that the painting typically reflects the cultural values, social significations, costume and aesthetic outlook of that period when the paintings were done. Based on this regard, this study analyzed the costume of figure paintings in the court painting of the Qing dynasty that complied and edited by the Palace Museum. The court dress of Qing dynasty represented not only the spiritual world of Manchu tribes but also the influences of Chinese traditional culture. The court dresses of Kangxi and Qianloug showed definitely the luxury of life of Qing court. The everyday dress of Qing dynasty reflected the nomadic environments and it was very simple. The hunting dress of Qing dynasty was very developed and also represented horse riding and hunting activities of their traditional life. The ladies of Qing dynasty enjoyed to dress the costume of old Chinese style. The appearance of noble women was fragile and slim.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.7
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• pp.69-81
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• 2003

This study firstly identify the characteristics of the clothes for traditional wedding ceremony from the late Chosun Dynasty (19th Century) and today through comparison. It also tries to discover what today's people are incorrectly aware of regarding the traditional wedding clothes particularly by survey. It ultimately aims to present constructive ways of solution against the illadvised and simplified deformation of the traditional wedding clothes. When comparing the traditional wedding clothes from the late Chosun and its modern counterparts, Dan-ryung and Samo-kwandae is still used for bridegroom's dress. In case of bride's dress, several items such as Yeom-eui, So-eui and Hwal-ot have been disappeared while Won-sam can be seen today. There were found many additional differences not only in type of the wedding clothes, but also in its form and constitution. Therefore, it is advisory to take the wedding clothes worn by commoners and upper class as the basic form for today's traditional wedding clothes. In addition, diversified research should be carried on to make them broadly accepted by today's life.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.12
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• pp.2022-2038
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• 2010

Our study was designed to provide some insights on positive country image and the mechanisms of influence that Asian fashion industries can draw upon for future benefit. We focused on a country image and fashion products with Asian ethnic influence. Asian traditional costume elements reflected in contemporary fashion products may be important representative tools for national cultural identity. This study qualitatively investigated how and to what extent country image and additional information influence the evaluation of fashion products influenced by Chinese, Japanese, and Korean traditional dress. We conducted four focus-group interviews (FGI) with 30 students from a fashion program at a university in the United States. We analyzed the evaluation of fashion products influenced by Chinese, Japanese, and Korean traditional dress, and their associations with country image. Our qualitative analysis offered more developed empirical evidence for the various paths through which country image affects the evaluation of fashion products influenced by the ethnic dress of Asians. The results of our study showed that the more direct the source of prior knowledge, the larger the influence on product evaluation. This study showed that certain cues in the evaluation of fashion products with Asian ethnic influence induce changes in the affective state (that stem from the psychological and social nature of fashion products) and illustrate the necessity of considering the affective processes involved in the appropriate use of the country image. In the fashion industry, extrinsic properties such as the country image significantly influence the attitude and purchasing decisions of consumers. The significance of this study lies in its verification of the relationship between the country image and additional information. Modular and situational-contextual influences are also revealed as important factors that deserve more attention, as well as considerations regarding the dimensions of the country image described in attitude theory.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.8
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• pp.1241-1252
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• 2009

This study is on the internal and external characteristics along with the phenomena of dress and ornaments expressed in them by analyzing Re-orienting Fashion (which is a system of signs and symbols) based on the theories of semiology in the search for the Korean identity by examining a Re-orienting Fashion that is being reinterpreted. Re-orienting Fashion performs the role of signs that act in the spread of Oriental culture through the globalization of traditional dress and ornaments in the Orient. It also has a meaning that converts the world of fashion to a new direction. When analyzing the system of signs and symbols in Re-orienting Fashion (based on the theories of semiology) the conclusions are that an eclectic symbol system has been formed by the combination of the pursuit of modernization in traditional dress and ornaments with post-modernism. A nature-friendly symbol system has been shaped as a natural silhouette in terms of the combination with Eastern philosophy that searches for a harmony with nature according to ecological trends. The ideal of a symbol system means the introduction of design elements in traditional dress and ornaments of the East as a rejection of Western civilization and as an alternative to the fixed pattern of the West.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.328-345
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• 2021

The aim of this study is to investigate morphological characteristics of Hanbok images in children's books and propose a direction for the modernization and globalization of traditional culture. This study examines 43 children's books by contemporary foreign illustrators that contain Hanbok illustrations and analyzes them from postcolonial perspective. The results include the following three attributes: first, the transformation of clothing structure and donning method that confuse fundamentals of Korean costume; second, the Westernization of silhouette drawing with tailored garments analogous to Western dress; and third, extension to East Asian dress that represents Hanbok mixed with Chinese or Japanese costume and use what is considered to be the East Asian patterns instead of Korean traditional ones. These attributes are based on Eurocentrism, which expresses and interprets the East from the Western view point with continuously distorted image of the East. Korean illustrators also painted Hanbok incorrectly, which could influence foreign illustrators. Nevertheless, traditional dress illustrated in various ways has artistic value and has a popular global impression. Further, it enables children to experience either own or other cultures through dress illustrations. Thus, the outsider requires an in-depth understanding of other cultures, while the insider needs a critical perception of their own culture as described by others while revisiting the original resources. Furthermore, we suggest follow-up research on Hanbok for subsequent generations; publishing translated books on various topics, producing and disseminating a primer for diverse readers, and essentially receiving counsel from experts.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.08a
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• pp.81-81
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• 2001

R.O.C. has experienced successively the development of previous dynasties that creates out the unique traditional culture of each stage. The Chinese nation is not a one-fold race; each dynasty absorbs the culture of the outside race. It is Tang Dynasty blends mutually however yield unusually brilliant results. The Tang Dynasty's national strength is forceful and the economy is prosperous. Above all, social custom and current of thought both break the constraint of previous dynasties' conservative thinking and keep positive and aggressive. While in the contact with extraterritorial culture, not only changes the feminine social status, but also produces unprecedented innovation and reform on the feminine dress. The Tang Dynasty's varied feminine suit is affected by the western regions of China culture, such as expose of chest, low collar, short top garment and skirt with narrow sleeves or wide sleeves, sleeve gown with plate collar or turndown collar, man's wear, and military dress, etc. An epoch can be known by Tang Dynasty feminine dress's special features, for example, the make-up of Tang-Shien-lon's Uan-Ho period presents dress style of late Tang days. However, the Chinese people compete mutually pursuing the strange costume, and accepting different cultural incitement This reveals that the changes of popular culture would result in the big transform of the Tang's dress style. This paper studies inherit of Tang Dynasty's culture and east-spread of the western regions of China culture. While understanding the Tang's favor in the western regions of China customs, all follow the western regions of China without exception, such as dance music, painting, dress, food, amusement, etc. Because of emperor's progressive race policy and forgiveness attitude to the foreign tribe that makes Tang Dynasty's feminine dress much easier to accept and blend the special features of the foreign tribe culture. While joined with west culture, and pick the dress's essence of the western regions of China, the original possessed of culture consciousness and esthetic sense improve and create their own dress, as well as enrich more inner part of dress art and the spirit.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.1
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• pp.64-76
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• 2014

This study aimed to analyze the expressive characteristics of design elements and fashion images shown in wedding dress styles in the 2000s. The findings were as follows. First, in wedding dress style the fashion images analysis showed that classic images appeared the most frequently, and fantastic, modern, kitsch, sexy, futuristic and ethnic images appeared the most, respectively. Second, design elements analysis of fashion images concluded that as for the appearance frequency of the silhouette, A line was the highest in classic, fantastic and kitsch images and H line was the highest in ethnic, modern, futuristic and sexy image. As for the appearance frequency of the necklines, bared top neckline was the highest in all of the fashion images. As for waistlines, natural waistlines except modern image of obscure waistlines appeared the most frequently in all of the images. As for sleeve, sleeveless appeared the most frequently in all of the images. As for material, see-through was the highest in ethnic, classic, sexy, fantastic and kitsch images. Luster material was the highest in modern and futuristic image. As for colors, white and achromatic, traditional wedding dress color, appeared the same in all of the seven fashion images, but chromatic colors appeared the most frequently in ethnic images. Third, the distinguishing expression features of fashion images shown in the wedding dress style of the times is as follows: 'Total fashion in wedding dress style', 'Emphasizes sexy image expression in wedding dress style', 'Various co-existence of wedding dress style', and 'Avant-garde expression in wedding dress style'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.9
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• pp.106-119
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to examine American students' perceptions of contemporary fashion design that incorporates Korean traditional costume. The findings, which are based on a survey of American students' aesthetic response to the fashion designs, are as follows. First, the impressions of American students about the fashion designs were affected by two major factors, Tradition and Trend. The Tradition factor was related to the impressions traditional, formal, elegant, classic, romantic, gorgeous, and natural, but was correlated negatively to the impressions dynamic, modern, and casual. The Trend factor was related to the impressions chic, trendy, and clear but not dandy. Designs with elongated shape had a positive score for the Tradition factor and designs with curvy line had a positive score for the Trend factor. Second, American students gave visual priority to the aspects of shape such as garment type and silhouette when they evaluated the designs. Color was less important than the aspect of shape in their fashion image perception. Therefore, they categorized the designs by similarity of garment types, and then sub-categorized them by color. The meaning of Korean traditional motifs or details was not significant to American students. Third, American students showed the tendency that the more they evaluated the designs to be gorgeous or trendy, the more they liked the designs. Furthermore, they liked the designs which have a positive score for the Trend factor.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.1-17
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• 2008

This research analyzes the patterns in modernization of costume that reflects the attitude of accepting the Western culture and the differences in perception, during modernization period (1850-early 1910) in Japan. The Japanese attitude toward the Western costume can be roughly classified into three periods: impetuous acceptance in the early Restoration of Imperial Regime(1867-1883), aggressive acceptance in Rokumeikan period(1883-1887), and the coexistence of traditional and modern costumes after Meiji 20(1887-1910). A Western costume symbolizes wealth and power until Rokumeikan period, however, as it becomes more common, it is considered as an ordinary dress rather than a ceremonial dress. The exact opposite phenomenon occurs to traditional costume. Although Japanese modernization is initially forced by western ideology of power, positive reactions to western culture and changes in perception toward China leads to more active importation of western culture. This reflects the governmental effort such as the Foreigners Employment Policy in the early Meiji period, and the public also became receptive toward change. However, acceptance of the Western culture is only limited to academic and technological areas, while the traditional Japanese ethos(the Emperor system, Shintoism, patriarchism) is obstinately protected. Therefore, it can be inferred that such extreme polarization of modernization and traditional inheritance enabled both perspectives to retain their own characteristics.