• 한국해안해양공학회지
• /
• 제3권2호
• /
• pp.65-71
• /
• 1991

쇄파변형에 대한 종래의 연구는 흐름을 고려하지 않은 경우가 대부분 이였다. 즉 파랑의 변화가 흐름의 변화에 미치는 영양에 대해서는 어느 정도 연구가 수행되어 왔으나, 파랑에 의해 발생한 흐름이 다시, 쇄파후 파고감사, 평균수위 상승 및 파향각 등 쇄파대내와 제반 수리양의 변화에 대해 어떻게 기여하는가에 대해서는 거의 보고되어 있지 않은 실정이다. 본 연구에서는 쇄파에 의해 발생하는 에너지 손실과 밀접한 관계가 있다고 알려진 연안류를 고찰하고, 이 연안류가 쇄파후 파고감사 및 평균수위 변동, 그리고 파향각에 어떻게 영향을 미치는가에 대해서 검토하고, 연안류가 존재하지 않은 경우와 비교 고찰한다.

• 산업기술연구
• /
• 제17권
• /
• pp.277-289
• /
• 1997

The numerical model for prediction of longshore current with set-up/down effect on a plane beach is developed using the longshore component of the depth-integrated momentum balance equation. To predict the longshore current, the wave height model should first be formulated because the longshore current depends on the wave height directly. Two wave model, regular wave model and random wave model, are developed based on the energy flux balance equation. Also, the numerical model estimating the set-up inside the shoreline is developed using both the on-offshore momentum equation and the moving boundary technique. The numerical models are verified by the analytical solution, and compared with laboratory data. It is found from the comparison that developed models may be predicted accurately the longshore current with set-up/down effect on a plane beach.

• 한국환경과학회지
• /
• 제23권11호
• /
• pp.1801-1805
• /
• 2014

Longshore current is main transportation mean causing movement of bed load and suspended particle in coastal waters, and effective measurement method and suitable equipment for shallow water coastal environment where is frequently exposed to atmosphere. Measurement equipment for longshore drift was designed and miniature model was applied to Gyeongpo beach in May and June, 2014. The equipment consists of three main elements, spheroid outer casing, spheroid inner casing, observation module equipped with GPS. Gyroscope principle was applied to observation module, and GPS receiver always can be directed upwards. Miniature models were installed along Gyeonpo beach, and it was well to track the flow of longshore current. This research described the design and function of the equipment and results of field experiments.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
• /
• 제3권2호
• /
• pp.108-115
• /
• 1991

쇄파후 발생하는 에너지 손실과 밀접한 관계를 가지며 또한 쇄파대내에 국한되어 분포하고 있는 연안류 분포형상과 그 형상에 영향을 미치는 제인자에 대해서 고찰하였다. 연안류는 연안역의 물질확산에 관계하며 연안표사와 밀접한 관계가 있어 이에 대한 구명은 공학상으로 커다란 의미를 갖는다. 계산결과로부터 수평확산계수, 마찰계수, 파향각, 파형경사 및 해저경사 등의 연안류의 유속 분포형상에 미치는 영향을 검토하고, 계산의 타당성을 검토하기 위해 기왕의 연구결과와 본 연구에서의 계산결과를 비교 검토한다.

• 한국해양공학회지
• /
• 제21권4호
• /
• pp.15-20
• /
• 2007

The harbor siltation by longshore sediment transports has become a serious problem on the East Coast of Korea. A reasonable prediction of the longshore sediment rate is important to approach the siltation problem effectively. In the recently developed 1-line model, the empirical constants of the sediment transport formula, which include the absolute quantity of sediment transport rate and the spatial distribution of breaking wave height by wave deformation, are treated as calibration parameters. Since these constants should be determined by the very long-term shoreline data, the longshore sediment rates are much more reasonable values. The method was applied to Hupo Beach, which has experienced heavy siltation. The authors also discuss long-term shoreline change using aerial photos and the observed wave-induced current patterns. According to the result, the SW-direction sediment transport rate was $146,892m^3/year$, and the NE direction was $2,694,450m^3/year$ at Hupo Beach for the last 11 years. The siltation in Hupo Harbor might be affected by the NE-direction sediment transport from Hupo Beach.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
• /
• 제13권1호
• /
• pp.1-8
• /
• 2001

파랑으로 인해 발생되는 흐름은 연안에서 질량수송의 일련의 과정을 야기시키므로 연안유역의 관리에 파랑과 흐름의 상호작용에 대한 정확한 이해가 요구된다. 본 논문은 적응가능한 사면 구조 격자에 근간을 둔 파랑장과 흐름장을 혼합한 수치모델을 기술하였다. 사용한 모델은 쇄파, 천수, 굴절, 회절, 파랑과 흐름의 상호작용, 평균해면의 저하와 상승, 혼합 과정, 바닥 마찰 효과 그리고 해안선에 접한 운동 등을 해석할 수 있다. 주기와 수심으로 평균한 지배 방정식은 단계적으로 엇갈린 사면구조 격자에 적응 가능한 Adam-Bashforth 2차 유한 차분 기법으로 양해적으로 모델화 되었다. 본 모델로부터의 결과는 평면 해변에서 경사 입사파에 의해 발생된 연안류의 실험치와 타당한 일치를 보였다.

• 대한토목학회논문집
• /
• 제6권4호
• /
• pp.11-19
• /
• 1986

연안류(沿岸流)는 연안표사(沿岸漂砂) 해안침식(海岸侵食) 또는 항만매몰(港灣埋沒)외 원인(原因)이 되기도 하며, 연안역(沿岸域)의 물질확산(物質擴散)의 외력(外力)으로 작용(作用)하기 때문에, 그 현상(現象)의 이해(理解) 및 구명(究明)은 공학적(工學的)으로 갖는다. 본(本) 연구(硏究)에서는 실험(實驗)을 통해서 연안류(沿岸流)의 분포특성(分布特性)을 고찰(考察)하고, 실험결과(實驗結果)를 Longuet-Higgins model에 의한 계산치(計算値)와 비교(比較) 검토(檢討)하였다. 일반적(一般的)으로 연안류(沿岸流)는 쇄파대내(碎波帶內)에 국한(局限)되어 분포(分布)하며, 쇄파대외(碎波帶外)에서는 매우 미약(微弱)함을 보였다. 연안류(沿岸流) 수심방향(水深方向)으로의 분포(分布)는 거의 일정(一定)하였으며, 실험치(實驗値)와 계산치(計算値)는 최대치(最大値) 부근(附近)을 제외하고, N=0.05 일 경우 좋은 일치(一致)를 보이고 있다.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
• /
• 제6권1호
• /
• pp.23-60
• /
• 2016

The major objective of this study was to develop further understanding of 3D nearshore hydrodynamics under a variety of wave and tidal forcing conditions. The main tool used was a comprehensive 3D numerical model - combining the flow module of Delft3D with the WAVE solver of XBeach - of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics that can simulate flow, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. Surf-swash zone hydrodynamics were modeled using the 3D Navier-Stokes equations, combined with various turbulence models (${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES). Sediment transport and resulting foreshore profile changes were approximated using different sediment transport relations that consider both bed- and suspended-load transport of non-cohesive sediments. The numerical set-up was tested against field data, with good agreement found. Different numerical experiments under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were run to test the model's capability to reproduce 3D flow, wave propagation, sediment transport and morphodynamics in the nearshore at the field scale. The results were interpreted according to existing understanding of surf and swash zone processes. Our numerical experiments confirm that the angle between the crest line of the approaching wave and the shoreline defines the direction and strength of the longshore current, while the longshore current velocity varies across the nearshore zone. The model simulates the undertow, hydraulic cell and rip-current patterns generated by radiation stresses and longshore variability in wave heights. Numerical results show that a non-uniform seabed is crucial for generation of rip currents in the nearshore (when bed slope is uniform, rips are not generated). Increasing the wave height increases the peaks of eddy viscosity and TKE (turbulent kinetic energy), while increasing the tidal amplitude reduces these peaks. Wave and tide interaction has most striking effects on the foreshore profile with the formation of the intertidal bar. High values of eddy viscosity, TKE and wave set-up are spread offshore for coarser grain sizes. Beach profile steepness modifies the nearshore circulation pattern, significantly enhancing the vertical component of the flow. The local recirculation within the longshore current in the inshore region causes a transient offshore shift and strengthening of the longshore current. Overall, the analysis shows that, with reasonable hypotheses, it is possible to simulate the nearshore hydrodynamics subjected to oceanic forcing, consistent with existing understanding of this area. Part II of this work presents 3D nearshore morphodynamics induced by the tides and waves.

• 한국환경과학회지
• /
• 제6권6호
• /
• pp.589-594
• /
• 1997

A total of 24 surface sediment samples collected from coastal region and fronting of sea cliff on Cape Cod In southeastern Massachusetts, were analyzed to Investigate the sediment transport mechanism. According to the result of grainsize analysis, the overall trend of g.k size decreases from the north(Wood End Beach) to the south(Nauset Light Beachy. The coarser materials tend to be deposited at the foreshore than at the backshore. Especially gavel content(%) Is very high in northern beaches. The lavel fraction tended to concentrate at the toe of the beach. In addition to gravel. the beach and nearshore bar also tended to be deposite of very coarse sand and the Inner fraction accumulate in the offshore bar, Grainsize analyses of sediment Indicates that the coarsest sands Including gravel accumulate In the beach and nearshore bar, the finer fraction winnowed out by wave action to be deposited In the offshore bar. The beach and nearshore bar sands and gavel are subsequently transported laterally by the wave-driven longshore drift, and finally they come to rest in the distal end of Provincetown Hook. The faller offshore sands are trnasported laterally to the south by net southward-directed longshore current.

• 한국해양공학회지
• /
• 제12권3호통권29호
• /
• pp.75-85
• /
• 1998

A finite difference model for predicting time-dependent, wave-induced nearshore current is studied. The model includes wave refraction, wave-current interaction, bottom friction and wind effect. This model iteratively solved the linear the linear set of conservation of both mass and momentum, which were time averaged (over one wave period) and depth integrated, for mean velocities and free surface displacement. Numerical simulations of nearshore current under oblique wave attack, and for wave and wind induced current on a longshore periodic beach are carried out. Longshore velocities tend to zero in some distances outside the breaker line. And the peak velocity is shifted shoreward at the breaker line. The results represent the general characteristics of the nearshore current induced by wave.