• 복식
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• 제58권2호
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• pp.162-180
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to find the basic design factors that affect the changes in body surface lines caused by lower limb movements, thereby resulting in slacks that fit well regardless of whether the human form is static or in motion. Using unmarried female university students aged 18-24 as subjects, a total of 32 body surface lines (15 body surface total lines and 17 body surface segment lines) were measured in one static and 9 movement poses, The analysis first involved the calculation of the expansion and contraction rates per body part in body surface line in 9 lower limb movements, Second, a factor analysis was conducted using the expansion and contraction rates of these changes in body surface line. The results of this study are as follows, According to the factor analysis, basic design factors that affect changes in body surface lines comprised 8 types of factors as illustrated in fig, 2-fig, 9, which explained 79.2% of total variate for the variables studied, Factor 1, comprising the lower segment of center back leg line, center front leg line and inner leg line, and lower limb girth except midway thigh girth and ankle girth below hip girth, accounted for 30.3% of total variance, Factor 2, comprising waist girth, the total and upper segment of center back leg line and center tront leg line, and front and back segment of crotch length, explained 17.4% of total variance, Factor 3, the total and upper segment of lateral leg line at the center, accounted for 56.5% of total variance in accordance with Factors 1, 2, and 3, Factor 4 was the contracting upper part of lower leg between legscye girth and midway thigh girth, Factor 5 comprised the total and upper segment of inner leg line and posterior knee girth, Factor 6 was the total crotch length, Factor 7 was the ankle girth, Factor 8 was the abdomen girth.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.145-156
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to improve the fitness of Korean manufactured apparel products being exported to China and to provide for the basic data useful to the development of a torso prototypes for the Chinese women. For this purpose, Chinese college women aged between 18 and 24 were sampled to test the fitness of the Korean manufactured apparels for the Chinese women sample and address the problems of unfitness and thereupon. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; As a result of testing the fitness of the Korean manufactured apparels for the Chinese women, it was found that Chinese women felt more or less comfortable for the front of the jackets, but felt less comfortable with their side and back. Such a finding suggests that the Chinese women's postures are more turned back than the Korean women's. And also for the slacks, lack of a crotch length causes unnecessary pulls and creases from the back part to the crotch of a pair of slacks and the side line was not suitably placed. For this reason, the differences between the body shapes of Chinese and Korean women should be thoroughly considered when drawing the patterns to export to China.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.153-167
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• 2015

This paper proposes knit slacks patterns by lower body shape of middle-aged women. In addition, this paper aims to propose a design method for a prototype of nice knit slacks using the properties of knitwear. To select basic woven slack patterns which would be used in designing prototype of knit slacks for middle-aged women, two industrial slack patterns and two educational slack patterns were collected, and lab coats were prefabricated using muslin. Then, a shape test was performed by an evaluation board which consisted of eight experts who majored in Clothing Construction. Using blended yarn (1/17's) with 64% wool, 23% rayon and 13% nylon, 12G knit slacks in plain stitch were made. In terms of waist circumference of knit slacks, the front and the back were set to W/4+1+2(D) and W/4-1+2(D), respectively, with 1cm of difference using waist circumference (Omphalion) to cover the abdominal circumference. To make the front-back width of the side line even, the front waist circumference was increased by 1cm. The ease of hip circumference was set to 4cm in total with H/4+1+0.8 in front and H/4+1-0.8 in the back (0.8cm in difference). Crotch length was set by adding 3cm (width of waist belt) after deducting crotch height from waist height (Omphalion). The center front angle was shifted by 1cm while the center back angle was shifted from the center front to the side line by 5cm.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권9_10호
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• pp.1300-1311
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• 2004

The aim of this study was to provide the 2 and 3 dimensional statistics requisite in the sizing system and design of gloves. The 64 2-dimensional static measurements were selected to provide information about hands. Participants in the study were 824 adults, aged between 18 and 64. To summarize the information from the measurement values, a Factor Analysis and a Cluster Analysis among multivariate analyses were performed. 3-D scanner was used for visual results of hand shape of each cluster. The results were as follows. Twenty-two items were used for the factor and cluster analysis in order to classify the adult hand shape. The variable quantities that are explained by a total of 3 factors amounted to under 79.37% of the variable quantities. The definition results of the factors related to the hands are as follows: Factor 1 is the horizontal dimension, the thickness of hand factor; Factor 2 is the height of the crotch; and Factor 3 is the vertical dimension of the hand. The adults' group hand was divided into 2 clusters according to a cluster analysis using factor scores. The characteristics according to hand type were as follows: Cluster 1 referred to high horizontal dimensions and thickness, rather small vertical dimensions and crotch height; and Cluster 2 represented the rather smaller horizontal dimensions and thickness but longer hand length than Type 1. To provide specific shape data of each cluster, 3-D scanner measurement was performed. 3-dimensional data base was developed for each cluster type and visual information was provided.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권3호
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• pp.410-419
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to develop the functionally improved winter work clothing for the Korean railroad workers. Based on the questionnaires, sample clothing for the Korean railroad workers was produced. The design, materials, and patterns were modified to increase mobility and comfort for workers. Water-repellent treatment was added to the material in order to decrease the dirt and stains while working. Also, reflective strips were added to side seams and hems of the trousers in order to increase the visibility and safety of the workers. In terms of the design and pattern, a circumference of 4.5cm was added to the crotch area in order to minimize tightness on the hip and crotch areas, but no additional circumference was added to the hip area. And a 1cm width dart was inserted between the side seams and yoke in order to add activity. Also three 1.4cm width tucks were used at 2.5cm space on the knees to alleviate tightness at the knees. The prototype was evaluated objectively and subjectively to compare with the existing working uniform. The assessment group consisted of 5 subject groups and 11 expert groups to evaluate external appearance and adaptability of the movements. Subject and panels were asked to evaluate the prototype that followed an ergonomic design and pattern. According to the results, the prototype was evaluated better than the existing working uniform in appearance and adaptability. A field test was conducted to compare the prototype and the existing working uniform. The field tests were performed by 6 workers in the Korean railroad. According to the results, the prototype advanced in terms of adaptability and comfort.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권5호
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• pp.675-689
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• 2014

This study developed an ideal jeggings pattern with an improved body fit for 20-24 year old females. The results of the study are as follows. First, samples for wearing test were made using jegging patterns from three manufacturers; subsequently, one pattern with a relatively outstanding body fit was selected from the first test. The selected pattern suggested a tight knee, belly, and crotch, high front waist line, and low back waist line. The side lines were also lean to the front; consequently, the front hip width was extended for 0.5cm for more space around the belly and the extended front knee part for 0.2cm to increase moving suitability to fix the leaning side lines. A 1cm front waist line was extended for 0.5cm to fix it lower; in addition, the back waist line 3.0cm was extended for 0.5cm to heighten it. The crotch width was also extended for 0.5cm to add more space. The second wearing test for the fixed forms were evaluated for their outstanding features in appearance as well as moving functions that were proposed as final jeggings forms. The results of the study suggested a jeggings pattern with a better body fit using manufacturer patterns that can be used as basic data for pant patterns with better fitting using various stretch fabrics.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제42권4호
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• pp.45-54
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• 2004

The Purpose of this study was to research and develop a Pattern of tight Pants, featuring excellent appearance, movement and suitability for the lower body, which are widely used as a basic item for modem dance, aerobic dance and dance sports, and to provide manufacturing data for the pants. This study was carried out with 118 People who majored in dance, using questionnaires asking questions about their understanding and preference of dancewear The experimental dancewear was produced, using 5 kinds of patterns for tight pants on the market, to find out the most excellent pattern in appearance and movement performance. Then, the most excellent pattern was again improved to produce a pattern for this study. The result of this study is summarized as follows. 1. Regarding shops where they purchased dancewear exclusive shops accounted for 97%, their average price was ￦30,000 to ￦50,000(51%), and dancewear separated between the upper and lower halves was most preferred(56%). Cotton span was preferably used for a dancewear material(71%), and their dissatisfaction of a fit accounted for 38% which appeared to be highly unsatisfied with its suitability. 2. When S types of experimental dancewear prepared with a comparative pattern were tested by the senses, it was shown that the comparative pattern of experimental wear number 5 with a strip w3s excellent in movement functions and appearance. 3. The basic items necessary to design the tight pants' study pattern were categorized into waist circumference, hip circumference, crotch depth and slacks length. The shrinkages of 15% in width, 10% in crotch length md 20% in inside leg length were applied, respectively, referring to previous studies and the experimental dancewears' comparative patterns. 4. When the improved study pattern for this study was tested by the senses, it showed higher scores in movement functions and appearance than the comparative pattern did, which confirmed the study pattern's improvement of functions and appearance.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.1009-1018
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to develop slacks patterns for middle-aged abdomen-obese adult males by using the 3D virtual-twin and virtual-garment simulation system. The criteria for subjects in this study were males who had over $25kg/m^2$ of BMI, over 90cm of waist, and over 0.90 of WHR. A total of 211 adult males who met these criteria were enrolled. The results were as follows: first, a new slacks pattern considerate of abdomen-obese men was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows: front and back hip girth H/4+3.5, front waist girth W/4+1+0.5, back waist girth W/4+1-0.5, front crotch extension H/16, back crotch extension H/8-0.5, front pleats amount 2.7, and back dart amount 1.5. Second, according to the results of the new slacks patterns appearance evaluation, the new slacks pattern scored more highly than the existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that the new slacks pattern is appropriate for the abdomen-obese men. Also, the new slacks pattern was evaluated allowing proper space length of waist, abdomen and hip. Virtual models of production through data from a 3D body scan, pattern draft and virtual garment digital program were applied to a prototypic design method in order to enhance the fitness of ready-made garments. The use of the virtual twin made it impossible to comprehend the appearances and ease correspondent to motions. In order to evaluate wearing fitness, therefore, the system should be improved so as to change arm positions and perform various motions.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권5호
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• pp.827-839
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• 2009

Sizing system of Korean structural firefighting protective clothing that is national approved should be met for specification of structural firefighting protective clothing that is identified by Ministry of Public Administration and Security(MOPAS). However if you look over the specification of sizing system, the standard is based on only 'height' and the others are indicated as the size of completed product. KS K ISO 13688 and EN 340 which is met on ISO 13688 which indicates sizing system about protective clothing has the standards of height, chest and waist circumference. Also NFPA 1971 that has standards of sizing system is based on chest circumference, cervical to wrist length, waist circumference and inseam. That is different from Korean standards. Therefore, fire fighting protective clothing standards which is based on only height should be compensated and not be relied on foreign standards like ISO. It is indispensable for developing our own sizing system of structural fire fighting protective clothing. In this studying, Korean new sizing system of structural fire fighting protective clothing was developed for providing basic information of ergonomic structural fire fighting protective clothing. The analyzed target age was between 20 and 59 years old fire fighter who extinguish the fire. And it was analyzed by 3D measurement among data of the $5^{th}$ Size Korea. On conclusion, in case of structural fire fighting protective clothing coat, physical dimension was to be chest circumference, cervical to wrist length. Three dimensions as 5cm space of circumference and four dimensions as 2.5cm space of cervical to wrist length were derived, which means that totally 12 dimensions were defined. Dimension standards of pants was based on the analysis of waist circumference and crotch height. Six dimensions as 5cm space of waist circumference and three dimensions as 5cm space of crotch height were derived, which means that totally 14 dimensions were defined.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.96-112
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• 2018

This study developed the pants pattern, that improved appearance and gesture functions in clothes to resolve inconveniences in case of activities with being adequate in fitness of slim-fit pants for obese adolescents. The slim-fit pants pattern was developed through the fitting test after designing and making the pattern of the experimental clothing A(c/pu; 99/1%) with the primary commercial clothing as basic prototype, through the fitting test and implementation of the experimental clothing, modified and supplemented secondarily, and through the fitting test of the second experimental clothing, modified and supplemented tertiary. In terms of findings, first, as a result of analyzing the commercial slim-fit pants, it is interpreted to have projected an optical illusion, that appears to be slim due to being narrow in width of the front panel when observed from the front of the pants. Second, in the fitting test of the first experimental clothing, the prototype of commercial clothing was understood to have improved butt, crotch, waist and femoral regions. Third, pattern design of the second experimental clothing was allowed to decline abdominal pressure, in case of the sitting position, by making the crotch line in the front panel short and by handling it with a yoke belt, and was processed a difference between waist and hip circumference in the back panel, with a rubber band in the whole waist part. Fourth, in the gesture function test of the third experimental clothing, high evaluation was received in every item excluding the knee region.