• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.4
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• pp.313-321
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• 2023

Platycodon grandiflorus (P. grandiflorus) flower is a perennial plant belonging to the family Campanulaceae and has many excellent pharmacological effects, so it has been used as a medicinal ingredient since ancient times. In addition, anthocyanin is a purple or blue natural pigment contained in plant flowers and fruits, and is known as a powerful antioxidant. The purpose of this study was to confirm the dermatological functionality of P. grandiflorus flower extract and the value of the bluish anthocyanin contained in flowers as a cosmetic material as a natural pigment. Firstly, 50% ethanol and 80% ethanol were added to the P. grandiflorus flower and extracted under reflux for 4 h at 25, 60, and 80 ℃, and the pH of each treatment group was similar. Based on the anthocyanin content and chromaticity (E^*ab), 50% ethanol 60 ℃ extraction conditions showing the color development most similar to the natural color of the P. grandifloras flower were selected, and a sample was prepared by concentrating and lyophilizing. The analysis results showed that the total phenol, total flavonoid, and total anthocyanin contents were in the ranges of 23 ㎍/mL, 16 ㎍/mL, and 0.17 ㎍/mL, respectively. The P. grandiflorus flower extract suppressed the production of nitric oxide (NO) and interleukin-6 (IL-6) in lipopolysaccharide (LPS) induced RAW264.7 cells. Furthermore, the P. grandiflorus flower extract showed wound healing effects through the promotion of skin cell migration in TNF-α stimulated human keratinocytes. The stability of anthocyanin and extract color was studied during a storage period of 50 days at various temperatures (4 ℃, 25 ℃, and 45 ℃). Color values (L, a, and b) of the P. grandiflorus flower extract changed over 50 days, whereas the bluish-purple color of the extract was stabilized using 5% maltodextrin. These results suggest that P. grandiflorus flower extract may be useful as a natural cosmetic pigment.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.309-315
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• 2009

In our search for the natural cosmetic ingredients, we found that Euryale ferox seed extract exhibited the strong antioxidative activity. Five active compounds were isolated from the ethyl acetate extract through various chromatographic methods and their structures were determined by NMR and MS spectral analysis. These compounds were identified as fucosterol (1), 3-(4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzyl)-4-[(7'R),5'-dihydroxy-3'-methoxybenzyl]tetrahydrofuran (2), resorcinol (3), pyrogallol (4) and 4-O-methylgallic acid (5).We evaluated the antioxidative, antielastase activities and melanogenesis inhibitory effects of these compounds. The $SC_{50}$ values of compounds 2 ~ 5 for free radical scavenging activity were $17.0\;{\sim}\;100.2\;{\mu}M$ and especially compounds 4 and 5 were 6-fold more effective than ferulic acid as a positive control. And compounds 2 ~ 4 inhibited human neutrophil elastase with $IC_{50}$ values of $18.8\;{\sim}\;78.2\;{\mu}M$ and compound 3 also inhibited melanin synthesis in B16F10 melanoma cells with an $IC_{50}$ value of $492.8\;{\mu}M$. These results suggest that Euryale ferox extract having a lot of various active ingredients may be useful as a natural multi-functioning agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.2
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• pp.125-135
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is verification of the anti-oxidant effect and anti-inflammatory effect of Eggplant-cheongyeolsodokum composed of 8 herbs (Solanum melongena L., Lonicera japonica Thunb., Glycyrrhiza uralensis Fisch., Ligusticum chuanxiong Hort., Angelica gigas Nakai., Coptis deltoidea C. Y. Cheng et Hsiao., Gardenia jasminoides J. Ellis., Forsythia suspensa Vahl) to confirm the possibilities as useful cosmetic material. We used the modified prescription of 'cheongyeolsodokum' contained in Korean traditional medical book 'Donguibogam' as composition of Eggplant-cheongyeolsodokum and their proportions. Eggplant-cheongyeolsodokum were extracted with hot water, 70% ethanol and then powdered. To confirm anti-oxidant effect, we investigated radical scavenging ability (DPPH, $ABTS^+$, superoxide), superoxide dismutase (SOD)-like activity, total polyphenolic contents. Also to confirm anti-inflammatory effect, we investigated inhibition effect of nitric oxide (NO) production in lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-stimulated RAW264.7 macrophages, and Inhibition effect of the expression of inflammatory-related proteins (iNOS, COX-2) by western blot analysis. As a result, Eggplant-cheongyeolsodokum showed good anti-oxidant and anti-inflammation effects, we suggest that it can be used as an active ingredient for cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.3 s.47
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• pp.377-383
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• 2004

This study reviewed the application of an extract from mountain ginseng adventitious roots which had been grown through tissue culture as a cosmetic ingredient. The mountain ginseng adventitious roots were derived from mountain ginseng callus that was induced from mountain ginseng root whose origin is estimated to date back about one hundred years ago. The adventitious roots were separated from callus and grown in a 20 L bioreactor. In order to proliferate the adventitious roots, they were cultured for 5 weeks in bioreactor. Then the harvested mountain ginseng adventitious roots were dried and extracted. For verifying skin whitening effect of an extract from the tissue-cultured mountain ginseng adventitious roots in vivo, we performed the clinical test of it. The research showed the significant skin whitening effect of a mountain ginseng adventitious roots extract and the statistical analysis showed a significant difference (p<0.0001) between sample ($2\%$ mountain ginseng adventitious roots extract) and placebo. But, some saponins showed below $10\%$ inhibitory effect of tyrosinase and melanin synthesis in B-16 melanoma. The extracts of red ginseng and ginseng which were the same concentration as the tissue-cultured mountain ginseng adventitious roots extract's showed little inhibitory effect of tyrosinase and melanin synthesis in B-16 melanoma. In DPPH test, Anti-hydroxyl radical activity of $0.5\%$ the tissue-cultured mountain ginseng adventitious roots extract was $86\%.$.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.39 no.2
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• pp.149-158
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• 2013

L-ascorbic acid, the representative antioxidants, has a great effect on skin whitening, collagen synthesis, and anti-aging, but has low oxidative stability during storage. Therefore, in this study, thermal and oxidation properties of L-ascorbic acid under various storage conditions (powder, aqueous phase, changes of temperature, UV-irradiation, and inflow of external air etc.) were investigated. And the storage stability of ingredient was validated in the double-spaced pouch by analysing oxidation properties under each storage conditions (powder phase and blended with essence). In oder to analyze the thermal properties, TGA, DSC, and FT-IR analysis were carried out and UV-visible spectrophotometer & redox titration were used in parallel for oxidation property analyses. From the result of experiment, L-ascorbic acid was oxidized fast when it contained lots of metallic ion, hydroxy ion in aqueous solution under high temperature, UV-irradiation & inflow external air, whereas it was not oxidized for a long time when it was stored as pure powder although it has same condition as heating up, UV-irradiation & inflow external air. Based on this result, retention period of cosmetics which is using L-ascorbic acid, less stable material in oxidation can be innovatively increased when using double-spaced pouch that is designed and produced for separating storage of active ingredients.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.4
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• pp.389-397
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• 2018

The starfish, Asterina pectinifera Muller and Troschel (Asterinidae) is an indigenous species commonly found in all coasts of Korea causes damages to shellfish farms. In order to exterminate A. pectinifera, they are dried and used as fertilizer. Although various studies have been conducted to create high added value from the retrieved A. pectinifera, their actual utilization is relatively low. Accordingly, this study aimed to find new practical uses of starfish by identifying useful ingredients for skin anti-aging. Two polyhydroxysteroids and one asterosaponin were isolated from the A. pectinifera. The structures of these compounds were identified as $5{\alpha}$-cholestane-$3{\beta},6{\alpha},7{\alpha},8,15{\alpha},16{\beta},26$-heptol, $5{\alpha}$-cholestane-$3{\beta},4{\beta},6{\alpha},7{\alpha},8,15{\beta},16{\beta},2$6-octol, and asterosaponin $P_1$ on the basis of chemical and spectroscopic analysis. Among these compounds, we have found that asterosaponin $P_1$ increased epidermal stem cell proliferation and the expression of hyaluronan synthase-2 and hyaluronan synthase-3 gene, which are enzymes that synthesize water-binding matrix hyaluronic acids in keratinocytes. In addition, asterosaponin $P_1$ increased synthesis of pro-collagen type I, a major dermal collagen in fibroblasts. As a result, asterosaponin $P_1$ isolated from A. pectinifera could be used as a useful cosmetic ingredient that improves skin symptoms accompanying skin aging.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.4
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• pp.299-306
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• 2023

In this study, exosomes were isolated by ultrafiltration from Lactobacillus rhamnosus J2K-821 and their various effects for skin were evaluated. Their size and concentration were identified 50 ~ 200 nm and 3.22 × 10⁸ particles/mL, respectively through nanoparticle tracking analysis. In order to verify the inflammatory relief effect of Lactobacillus rhamnosus-derived exosomes (LRDEs), their nitric oxide (NO) production inhibitory ability in RAW 264.7 macrophages induced an inflammatory reaction with lipopolysaccharide (LPS) was confirmed. It was revealed that they inhibited NO production in a concentration-dependent manner. To evaluate the antioxidant activity and skin barrier improvement effect of LRDEs, their 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity and hyaluronidase inhibitory activity were confirmed. It was also revealed that their activities were increased by concentration-dependent manner. Through these results, It is believed that LRDEs can be used as a effective natural cosmetic ingredient for anti-inflammation, antioxidation and skin barrier improvement.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.175-184
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• 2019

The epidermal growth factor (EGF) has a intrinsic function of inducing growth and proliferation of cells through interacting with cell membrane receptors in human epidermis and dermis layer. These functions of EGF are used as a main ingredient for wound healing medicines and anti-aging cosmetics. As a cosmetic ingredient, the EGF has a problem in exhibiting its natural efficacy due to the lack of the ability to penetrate through the stratum corneum, which is known as the skin barrier. In this study, a recombinant human epidermal growth factor ($MTD_{151}-EGF$) fused with the macromolecule transduction domain $(MTD)_{151}$ with the skin penetration ability was developed to improve the skin penetration efficiency of the EGF. Expression of $MTD_{151}-EGF$ was performed in E. coli transformed with a vector encoding the $MTD_{151}-EGF$ gene and then purified. The purified $MTD_{151}-EGF$ was evaluated using cell proliferation assay, cytotoxicity test and skin penetration test by franz diffusion cell assay and artificial skin. Cell proliferation activity of $MTD_{151}-EGF$ purified to high purity of 99% or above was equivalent to the EGF or better, and cytotoxicity was not observed. In addition, the $MTD_{151}-EGF$ showed an excellent penetration efficiency compared to the EGF in the skin penetration test with EGF and $MTD_{151}-EGF$ labeled by FITC in an artificial skin penetration model. Based on the quantitative analysis of the penetrating substance using franz diffusion cell assay, the amount of penetration was about 16 times more than that of EGF. These results can be regarded as an effective alternative to improve the existing physical transdermal penetration method related to the use of various active ingredients for cosmetics.

• Korean Journal of Pharmacognosy
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.84-87
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• 2014

A high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method for the quantitation of ellagic acid in Nymphaea tetragona was developed for the quality control of functional cosmetic ingredient, the extract of N. tetragona. Separation and quantitation were successfully achieved with a Kromasil C18 column ($5{\mu}m$, $250mm{\times}4.6mm$, i.d.) by isocratic elution of a mixture of acetonitrile containing 0.1% trifluoroacetic acid and water containing 0.03% phosphoric acid at a flow rate of 1.0 ml/min. The UV detector was used for the detection and the wavelength for quantitation was set at 254 nm. The presence of ellagic acid in the extract was determined by comparison of retention time and spiking with authentic standard. Analytical results showed good linearity ($R^2=0.99996$) in relatively wide concentration ranges. The R.S.D. for precision test was less than 3.0%. Recovery of the compound was 98.55~101.72% with R.S.D values less than 4.0%. In conclusion, this method has been successfully applied to the determination of ellagic acid in N. tetragona.

• Journal of the Korean Data and Information Science Society
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.1273-1281
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• 2014

As a variety of industrial technology advances with various materials developed, cosmetics industry in general is witnessing many kinds of new cosmetic products. At the same time, Cosmetics Act becomes effective, and cosmetics ingredient labeling is implemented. Concerns with life pattern such as life management, biorhythm, right posture, and stress symptoms are on the increase in order to seek high-quality life as well. These life patterns are closely connected not only with life quality and health but with skin management, and thus this paper conducts a survey on the connection between functional cosmetics awareness and life pattern. Results show that out of 16 questions concerning cosmetics awareness, responses to question number 3, 5, 6 and 11 have relevant differences among colleges. Furthermore, the results of cross analysis with life pattern show that there are relevant differences between the year of responses and stress symptoms and between the year of responses and right posture. Lastly, it is shown that answers to questions regarding gender and biorhythm, gender and right posture, and gender and stress symptoms are relevantly different. Further research is needed to reveal the differences between college students and ordinary people at large.