Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Anti-inflammatory Effects, Skin Wound Healing, and Stability of Bluish-purple Color Extracted from Platycodon grandiflorus (Jacq.) A.DC. Flower Extract

도라지꽃 추출물의 항염증, 피부재생 효과 및 색소 안정성 연구

  • Jin-A Ko (Institute of Natural Cosmetic Industry for Namwon) ;
  • Jiwon Han (Institute of Natural Cosmetic Industry for Namwon) ;
  • Bomi Nam (Division of Bioresourves Bank, Honam National Institute of Biological Resources) ;
  • Beom seok Lee (Institute of Natural Cosmetic Industry for Namwon) ;
  • Jiyoung Hwang (Institute of Natural Cosmetic Industry for Namwon)
  • 고진아 ((재)남원시바이오산업연구원) ;
  • 한지원 ((재)남원시바이오산업연구원) ;
  • 남보미 (국립호남권생물자원관 자원은행부) ;
  • 이범석 ((재)남원시바이오산업연구원) ;
  • 황지영 ((재)남원시바이오산업연구원)
  • Received : 2023.09.27
  • Accepted : 2023.11.14
  • Published : 2023.12.30
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Abstract

Platycodon grandiflorus (P. grandiflorus) flower is a perennial plant belonging to the family Campanulaceae and has many excellent pharmacological effects, so it has been used as a medicinal ingredient since ancient times. In addition, anthocyanin is a purple or blue natural pigment contained in plant flowers and fruits, and is known as a powerful antioxidant. The purpose of this study was to confirm the dermatological functionality of P. grandiflorus flower extract and the value of the bluish anthocyanin contained in flowers as a cosmetic material as a natural pigment. Firstly, 50% ethanol and 80% ethanol were added to the P. grandiflorus flower and extracted under reflux for 4 h at 25, 60, and 80 ℃, and the pH of each treatment group was similar. Based on the anthocyanin content and chromaticity (E*ab), 50% ethanol 60 ℃ extraction conditions showing the color development most similar to the natural color of the P. grandifloras flower were selected, and a sample was prepared by concentrating and lyophilizing. The analysis results showed that the total phenol, total flavonoid, and total anthocyanin contents were in the ranges of 23 ㎍/mL, 16 ㎍/mL, and 0.17 ㎍/mL, respectively. The P. grandiflorus flower extract suppressed the production of nitric oxide (NO) and interleukin-6 (IL-6) in lipopolysaccharide (LPS) induced RAW264.7 cells. Furthermore, the P. grandiflorus flower extract showed wound healing effects through the promotion of skin cell migration in TNF-α stimulated human keratinocytes. The stability of anthocyanin and extract color was studied during a storage period of 50 days at various temperatures (4 ℃, 25 ℃, and 45 ℃). Color values (L, a, and b) of the P. grandiflorus flower extract changed over 50 days, whereas the bluish-purple color of the extract was stabilized using 5% maltodextrin. These results suggest that P. grandiflorus flower extract may be useful as a natural cosmetic pigment.

도라지는 초롱꽃과(Campanulaceae)에 속하는 여러해살이풀로 뛰어난 많은 약리 효능을 가지고 있어 예로부터 약재로 활용하였다. 또한 anthocyanin은 식물의 꽃이나 과실 등에 포함되는 보라색 또는 파란색을 띄는 천연색소로 강력한 항산화제로 알려져 있다. 본 연구는, 도라지꽃 추출물의 피부과학적 기능성과 꽃에 포함된 청자색 계열의 anthocyanin이 천연 색소로서 화장품 소재로의 활용 가치를 확인하고자 하였다. 우선, 도라지꽃에 50% 에탄올과 80% 에탄올을 가하여 25, 60과 80 ℃,에서 4 h 환류추출하였고 각 처리군의 pH는 유사하였다. Anthocyanin 함량과 색도(E*ab)를 바탕으로 도라지의 천연색과 가장 유사한 발색을 나타내는 50% 에탄올 60 ℃ 추출조건을 선정하였고, 농축, 동결건조하여 시료를 제조하였다. 도라지꽃 추출물의 기능성 성분인 총 폴리페놀, 총 플라보노이드와 총 anthocyanin 함량은 23 ㎍/mL, 16 ㎍/mL과 0.17 ㎍/mL였다. 도라지꽃 추출물은 lipopolysaccharide (LPS)로 자극한 RAW 264.7 세포의 NO, IL-6 등의 염증 매개물질의 생성을 억제하는 항염증 효능 뿐만 아니라 TNF-a에 의한 각질형성 세포의 손상 조건에서 상처 치유에 의한 피부 재생 효능을 보였다. 이렇듯 항염증과 재생에 효능을 보이는 천연색소인 도라지꽃 추출물의 주를 이루고 있는 색소는 anthocyanin계이다. 일반적으로 anthocyanin계 색소는 pH, 온도 등에 불안정하다고 알려져 색소안정화제 3 종 (EDTA, maltodextrin, citric acid)을 첨가하였을 때 anthocyanin 함량과 색도를 조사하였다. 5% maltodextrin 첨가된 도라지꽃 추출물에서 50 일까지 색도 값의 안정성을 확인하였고 이를 바탕으로 천연색소인 도라지꽃 추출물의 화장품 원료로서의 응용 가능성을 평가하고자 하였다.

Keywords

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