• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.185-193
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• 2010

In the present study, wave deformation and wave-induced current were calculated under the regular wave conditions using the Boussinesq model. The model results of the wave deformation showed good agreements with the preceeding laboratory experiments of others. The wave-induced current of the fully developed sea state was calculated. For field application of model, the preceeding field data by others in the real scale of the water area were compared, the numerical result of wave deformation showed a relatively good agreement with the field data. Although the numerical result of wave-induced current was underestimated over the longshore bar developed area, the Boussinesq model is generally suitable to predict the wave-induced current.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2006.05a
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• pp.1931-1934
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• 2006

The accuracy impact of using high-order Boussinesq-type model as compared to the typical order model is examined in this paper. The multi-layer model developed by Lynett and Liu(2004a) is used for simulating of wave breaking over a step region. The overall comparisons between the two-layer model and the hydraulic experiments are quite good. The one-layer model overshoals the wave near the breakpoint, while the two-layer model shoals at a rate more consistent with the experimental data.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.9-31
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• 2007

Most seismic sea waves in the East Sea originate from earthquakes occurring near the Japanese west coast. While the waves propagate in the East Sea, they are deformed by refraction, diffraction and scattering. Though the Boussinesq equation is most applicable for such wave phenomena, it was not used in numerical modelling of seismic sea waves in the East Sea. To examine characteristics of seismic sea waves in the East Sea, numerical models based on the Boussinesq equation are established and used to simulate recent tsunamis. By considering Ursell parameter and Kajiura parameter, it is proved that Boussinesq equation is a proper equation for seismic sea waves in the East Sea. Two models based on the Boussinesq equation and linear wave equation are executed with the same initial conditions and grid size ($1min{\times}1min$), and the results are compared in various respects. The Boussinesq equation model produced better results than the linear model in respect to wave propagation and concentration of wave energy. It is also certified that the Boussinesq equation model can be used for operational purpose if it is optimized. Another Boussinesq equation model whose grid size is $40sec{\times}30sec$ is set up to simulate the 1983 and 1993 tsunamis. As the result of simulation, new propagation charts of 2 seismic sea waves focused on the Korean east coast are proposed. Even though the 1983 and 1993 tsunamis started at different areas, the propagation paths near the Korean east coast are similar and they can be distinguished into 4 paths. Among these, total energy and propagating time of the waves passing over North Korea Plateau(NKP) and South Korea Plateau(SKP) determine wave height at the Korean east coast. In case of the 1993 tsunami, the wave passing over NKP has more energy than the wave over SKP. In case of the 1983 tsunami, the huge energy of the wave passing over SKP brought about great maximum wave heights at Mukho and Imwon. The Boussinesq equation model established in this study is more useful for simulation of seismic sea waves near the Korean east coast than it is the Japanese coast. To improve understanding of seismic sea waves in shallow water, a coastal area model based on the Boussinesq equation is also required.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.21 no.1 s.74
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• pp.7-17
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• 2007

Based on the Boussinesq wave model, the wave distribution in the Chagui-Do sea area in Jeju was simulated by applying the directional irregular waves at an incident boundary. The time and spatial variations of monthly mean wave height and period were investigated, which aims to provide basic information on optimal sites for wave power generation. The grid size and time interval of the Boussinesq wave model were validated by examining wave distributions around a surface piercing wall, fixed at sea bottom with a constant slope. Except for the summer season, the significant wave height is dominated by wind waves and appears to be relatively high at the north sea of Chagui-Do, which is open to the ocean, while it is remarkably reduced at the rear sea of Chagui-Do because of its blocking effect on incident waves. In the summer, the significant wave height is higher at the south sea, and it is dominated by the swell waves, which is contributed by the strong south-west wind. The magnitude of significant wave height is the largest in the winter and the lowest in the spring. Annual average of the significant wave height is distinctively high at the west sea close to the Chagui-Do coast, due to a steep variation of water depth and corresponding wave focusing effect. The seasonal and spatial distribution of the wave period around Chagui-Do sea reveals very similar characteristics to the significant wave height. It is suggested that the west sea close to the Chagui-Do coast is the mast promising site for wave power generation.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.19 no.2 s.63
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• pp.29-33
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• 2005

The accuracy of predicting wave transformation in the nearshore is very important to wave hydrodynamics, sediment transport, and design of coastal structures. Numerical experiments are conducted to identify the shoaling and breaking characteristics of a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation-based model. Simulated shoaling showed good agreement with the Shouto's formula, and the results of the breaking experiment agreed well with experimented data, over several beach profile.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.154-165
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• 2006

In the present study, a numerical model using Boussinesq equation is set up to predict the interacted equilibrium between waves and their induced currents in the occurrence of breaking waves over an underwater shoal, and the numerical results are compared with results of existing hydraulic experiments. A sensitivity analysis has been done to find out appropriate values of breaking wave parameters with the result (regular wave case) of Vincent and Briggs (1989)’ experiment. Then the numerical model is applied to the irregular wave cases of the experiment and the hydraulic model test of Ieodo which is a natural undersea shoal. The results show that a strong current forms in the wave direction at the downstream side of the shoals, causing the attenuation of wave heights there. The calculated wave heights generally show a similar pattern with the measured data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.446-456
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• 2007

Numerical analyses of stem waves, the interaction between incident and reflected waves of obliquely incident regular waves along a vertical wall in a constant water depth, are presented. For the numerical model of the analysis, the two-layer Boussinesq equations developed by Lynett and Liu(2004a,b) are employed. Numerical results are compared with both laboratory measurements and those obtained using parabolic approximation model. The overall comparisons between the results from the two numerical models and the experiments are good. However, the two-layer Boussinesq model is more accurate than the parabolic approximation model as the angle of incident waves increases. In particular, the higher harmonic generation due to the wave nonlinearity is captured only in the Boussinesq model.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.121-127
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• 2008

Numerical experiments with weakly nonlinear MIKE21 BW module and fully nonlinear FUNWAVE model are performed to identify the nonlinear characteristics of Boussinesq models with varying nonlinearity. Generation of waves with varying amplitudes, nonlinear shoaling and wave propagation over submerged bar experiments showed the importance of nonlinear model in shallow water where nonlinearity becomes prominent. Fully nonlinear model showed the nonsymmetrical wave form more clearly and gave larger shoaling coefficients than those of weakly nonlinear model.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.136-145
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• 2007

When waves propagating over an underwater shoal break at the top of the shoal, wave heights are drastically decreased in the downstream breaking zone, but a secondary current shooting downstream with strong velocity can be induced by the breaking waves themselves. In the case that an offshore structure is placed in the breaking zone, the estimation of wave farce purely based on the visible wave height may cause an under-design of the structure. Thus, for the safe design of the structure, the breaking wave induced current should be necessarily considered in the comprehensive estimation of design load. In the present study, Boussinesq equation model to calculate the wave height distribution and breaking wave induced current was set up and applied to the scheme of a hydraulic model test previously undertaken. Based on the results of the Boussinesq model, fluid forces acting on the model structure were calculated and compared with the experimental results. The importance of the breaking wave induced current was quantitatively assessed by comparing fluid forces with or without current.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.70-86
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• 2015

Short crested waves play an important role for planning and design of harbours. In this context a numerical simulation is carried out to evaluate wave tranquility inside a real harbour located in east coast of India. The annual offshore wave climate proximity to harbour site is established using Wave Model (WAM) hindcast wave data. The deep water waves are transformed to harbour front using a Near Shore spectral Wave model (NSW). A directional analysis is carried out to determine the probable incident wave directions towards the harbour. Most critical threshold wave height and wave period is chosen for normal operating conditions using exceedence probability analysis. Irregular random waves from various directions are generated confirming to Pierson Moskowitz spectrum at 20m water depth. Wave incident into inner harbor through harbor entrance is performed using Boussinesq Wave model (BW). Wave disturbance experienced inside the harbour and at various berths are analysed. The paper discusses the progresses took place in short wave modeling and it demonstrates application of wave climate for the evaluation of harbor tranquility using various types of wave models.