• 제목/요약/키워드: 20c 패션

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20세기 스페이스 에이지 패션과 테크노-사이버 패션의 패러다임적 특성에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Paradigmatic Characteristics of the Space Age Fashion and Techno-Cyber Fashion in 20th Century)

  • 문신애;김문숙
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제7권6호
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    • pp.170-181
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    • 1999
  • The purpose of this study is to suggest the possibility of futurism as original design pursuing newness in approaching 21C by studying how futurism having a great effect on fashion as innovatory ideology in early 20C did became paradigm in 20C fashion and the common peculiarity of the dress and its ornaments in this time before 21C. The Space Age Fashion and Techno-Cyber Fashion are representative futurism fashion of 20C. The common inner inclination in both Space Age Fashion and Techno-Cyber fashion are ; First, a future-oriented character. Second, a surrealism character, Third, an anti-cultural character. The greatest peculiarity in the common outer shape in both Space Age Fashion and Techno-Cyber Fashion is material. First, a innovatory choice. Second, an active motion. Third, a diverse effects. Future dress and its ornaments of 21C may be changed greatly by the development of technique, and this fact supports the forecast that the change of paradigm resulted from the development of science may have an effect on future dress and its ornaments as well as modern one. The paradigm change of futurism fashion would be continued, and its influence would work as main source shaping the form of design in 21C.

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19세기 후반 이후 주류패션과 반패션에 표현된 성의 다원화에 관한 맥락적 연구 (A Contextual Study of the Pluralization of Sexuality Represented in Mainstream Fashion and Anti-Fashion Since the Late $19^{th}$ Century)

  • 최경희
    • 복식
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    • 제57권5호
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    • pp.166-182
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study is to reinterpret sexuality represented in fashion since the latter half of the 19th century in a contextual view, on the basis of Foucauldian idea of post-structural sexuality. As for research methodology, literary research was undertaken from the conception of sexuality to a historical review of the culture and dress. Foucault maintains the view of plural sexuality, which floats by power relationship between dominant and oppositional discourses in a specific historical context. In contextual approach sexual ideology codified in fashion since the latter 19C shows the following aspects: First, the traditional sexual ideology in the latter 19C is a capitalist value, which gives a priority to bourgeois man's profits, and the Victorian discourses of sexuality constructs the dichotomized fashion of the period. Next, the former half of the $20^{th}$ C is regarded as the period of conformity rather than opposition with various alternatives appropriated to the mainstream, so the traditional sexual ideology in fashion of this period is still preserved. Finally, in post-capitalism period of the latter 20C a variety of anti-fashion visualized plural sexuality from the enormous oppositional discourses. Although it doesn't all mean deconstruction of sexuality in fashion by the anti-fashion re-appropriated without oppositional meanings, pluralization of sexuality implies dynamics of sexual discourses in the next historical period. As a result, fashion since the latter 19C has been changed as a means for expressing age and sexual desire out of gender and class. And mainstream fashion in even postmodern period keeps the modern value on the center of the hegemonic heterosexual masculinity though the increase of Androgynous Femininity in women's fashion may connote the meaning of femininity. The plural sexuality represented in fashion has a contextual flexibility, thus sexuality floats with a specific socio-cultural context and fashion represents a masquerade as an identity vehicle.

20세기 서양 패션에 나타난 문양 이미지 - 문양의 이미지에 대한 연구 [II] - (Images of Patterns in Western Fashion in the 20th Century - A Study of Pattern Images [II] -)

  • 유현정
    • 복식
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    • 제59권5호
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    • pp.71-82
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this study is to help understanding of patterns and to play a guideline's role in the development of designs and the prediction of trends for present and future fashion designers and textile designers. The methods of this study are the study of academic literatures as well as practical study through the analysis about actual works. The results of study are like followings. An inquiry of Pattern history in 20c is divided into six periods by the classification of styles and the styles of fashion culture according to other artistic formative will. Main trends of Pattern's image in each period and characteristics in each dimensions of Pattern image positioning are like followings. Art Nouveau style period from 1900 to 1910 is , Art Deco style period from 1910 to 1920 is , Elegance style period of 1930s is , and New Romantic style period from 1945 to mid 1950s and Pop style period from late 1950s to mid 1970s does not show main Pattern image but they are shown in four Pattern image of , , , . Compromising style period from late 1980s to 1990s shows all of four Pattern image, at the same time shows intensive main Pattern's image, .

A Study on the Comparative Analysis of Slim Pants Patterns for Men in Their 20s

  • Kang, Kyounghee;Choi, Heisun;Kim, Sora
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제18권6호
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    • pp.116-136
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    • 2014
  • The purpose of this study was to select patterns for slim fit pants, for the following main research, to develop new pants patterns that are suitable and preferable for men in their 20s. We compared and analyzed the patterns of which are currently in the market. We compared 10 different slim pants pattern drafting and analyzed their differences. Then, we examined their appearances and functionalities thru a male model test fitting 10 different samples of the pants. The conclusions of the research results were as follows. We listed the patterns in the following order based on the numbers of items each pattern has, which are statistically considerable for the evaluation to the optimum satisfactory level among the total of 35 testing categories: J > B=I > F=H > A > C=G > D > E. In the functionality test of the pants, we found that it was too tight around the waist and abdomen area with Pattern D, where-as it was too loose around the waist with Pattern C:,-, yet, both of the patterns indicated that it is a good fit in over-all. Therefore, we chose Pattern E, D, C, and G as the existing pants patterns that could be used for further research and for educational purposes to develop a slim pants pattern for men in their 20s.

Ready to Wear 컬렉션에 나타난 Mix & Match 패션 경향 -Alexander McQueen, Jean Paul Gaultier, Comme des Garçons을 중심으로- (Mix & Match Fashion Trend Expressed in the Ready to Wear Collection - Focused on Alexander McQueen, Jean Paul Gaultier, Comme des Garçonson -)

  • 김선아
    • 한국생활과학회지
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    • 제20권1호
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    • pp.155-168
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    • 2011
  • This study aims at analyzing the Mix & Match fashion trend expressed in the Ready to Wear collections shown in 27 collections of 3 designers(Alexander McQueen, Jean Paul Gaultier, Comme des Gar$\c{c}$ons) over the past five years from 2007S/S to 2011S/S, and the results are as follows. 1) The characteristics were a combination of past and modern, the past and past prominent fashions combined at a different time, these styles and details were seen in Alexander McQueen's collection. 2) The properties of combination were expressed as a clash of cultures, such as East and West or African and European. 3) The characteristics of the combinations were expressed by differences in purpose, such as outer garments or underwear. 4) Artistic combinations of Mixing & Matching happen through a component confusion of art and garments. 5) The characteristics of Mixing & Matching fashion were expressed in images, especially in the case of Jean Paul Gaultier.

벨벳(Velvet ; 첨모직물(添毛織物))의 패션 디자인 연구(硏究) - 벨벳의 종류(種類)와 그 상징성(象徵性)을 중심(中心)으로 - (A Study on the Fashion Design of Velvet)

  • 정소영;조규화
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제2권1호
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    • pp.49-56
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    • 1998
  • This study is on the fashion design of velve, concentrating on the kinds and the images of it. The velvet, the pile fabrics, includes velveteen, velour(s), corduroy and plush. Ancient Chinese invented it first but Westerners used it widely in fashion since 14C because of the deep colors and the glimmering lights. In 20C the developments of textile industry, the mass production and the dyeing techniques made it popularized as velvet fashion. The velvet must be handled carefully and stretch velvet in vogue today needs the different pattern design and the dressmaking from general fabrics. 'For example, 55 size (bust girth 33", waist girth 26", hip girth 36") Jacket for ladies of stretch velvet, 3/4"ease in the bust line is eliminated at the back on the block pattern after normal pattern design. The costume of velvet has the images of elegance, nostalgia, and oriental ism. It has established the high quality, rich and refined elegance of Haute Couture. It could express the image of nostalgia, the longing for the past with the remarkable splendor. The orientalism of velvet costumes has represented the westerner's aspiration and imagination about the Orient with the intense color and over-decoration.

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패션프루트 무가온하우스 재배의 후기 수분시기가 착색에 미치는 영향 (Effect on fruit coloration for double harvesting by flowering period of passionfruit(Passiflora edulis) in non-heating plastic house cultivation)

  • 박재옥;이소미;조경철;김병삼;황인택
    • 한국자원식물학회:학술대회논문집
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    • 한국자원식물학회 2018년도 추계학술대회
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    • pp.78-78
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    • 2018
  • 패션프루트(Passiflora edulis)는 브라질이 원산지이며 아열대와 열대지역에서 재배되고 있는 다년생 상록덩굴식물로 시계꽃과(Passifloraceae) 시계꽃속(Passiflora)에 속한다. 전 세계적으로 500여종이 분포하고 그 중 10여종은 식용, 나머지는 관상용으로 이용되고 있다. 지구온난화로 인한 기온상승으로 전남지역 재배에 적합한 대체 아열대과수 개발이 필요하다. 패션프루트는 겨울 최저온도가 $3^{\circ}C$이상 조건에서 재배 가능하여 남부 지역는 무가온 하우스재배를 하고 있지만 시설내 6월 하순부터 8월 중순까지 $35^{\circ}C$ 이상 고온이 지속되어 과실을 볼 수 없다. 8월 하순부터 피는 꽃은 인공수분으로 착과되어 11월부터 수확이 가능하지만 이후에 낮은 온도($10^{\circ}C$이하)로 착색이 진행되지 않아서 동해피해로 수확을 포기해야 한다. 어느 시기까지 인공수분을 해야 당년에 안정적인 수확이 가능한지를 알아보고자 패션프루트의 후기(2차) 개화시기 중에서 8월 30일, 9월 10일, 9월 20일, 9월 30일에 인공수분 하여 11월 하순에 착색이 정상적으로 진행되는 처리를 조사한 결과 8월 30일 처리구만 11월 21일 착색이 되었다. 미착색과에서 내용물이 진노랑색으로 진행되면 후숙하여 상품과로 판매가 가능하기 때문에 진노랑색에 도달한 시기를 조사하였다. 조사에서 9월 10일까지 인공수분 처리한 과실은 후숙하여 상품과로 판매가 가능하였다.

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Comparison Research on the Patterns of No-Tuck Slim-Fitting Slacks for Young Men in Their 20s

  • Park, Sanghee;Lee, Eunhye
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제19권3호
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    • pp.101-112
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    • 2015
  • Because young men's slacks are becoming more slim-fitting today, this study attempts to identify room for improvement by comparing and analyzing the patterns of men's slacks in the literature and those of manufacturers. Selected for the study are two patterns from the literature and one from manufacturers (Slacks A, B, C); those from studies are slim silhouette pants with no tucking around the waist at the front. Subjects for the Fit tests and the pattern designs were men in their twenties with average body shapes in accordance with the figures in Size Korea 2010. Pants were made from muslin fabric and the Fit tests were carried out with three subjects and a panel of five experts to evaluate comfort and appearance. The analysis of the patterns revealed that Slacks A were the longest followed by C and then B. Slacks C had the most girth ease, and Slacks B were the slimmest in both length and girth. Movement tests showed Slacks A to be the most comfortable followed by B and then C. The appearance test found that Slacks B were the most attractive, followed by A, and then C. The fits at the front, back and sides of all three pants were more or less the same. We suggest that more studies be done on pants patterns adjusting them for proper ease and using elastic fabric in order to maintain the slim fit and also to be comfortable to wear.