• Journal of the Korean Geographical Society
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• v.43 no.6
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• pp.858-872
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• 2008

This study examined the meteorological disaster of Jeju Island in Chosun Dynasty based on historical documents, and analyzed how its government and Jeju Islanders responded to this. Recording cases of abnormal weather days of Jeju Island in Chosun Dynasty were most in 17th Century, and then in 18th Century, 16th Century, 15th Century, and 19th Century in order. For the type of meteorological disaster, storm damage was most serious, and then flood disaster, drought disaster, and snow damage were in order. For the region, Jejumok was mostly damaged from storm and flood, and Daejeonghyeon was mostly from drought. Once meteorological disaster occurred, it was a common thing that it continued with famine. The Chosun government relieved Jeju Islanders by moving the grains of mainland into Jeju Island, and for this, installed Galdujin warehouse, Naripo warehouse, and Jemin warehouse. Also, it tried to resolve chronic famine by moving Jeju people into mainland such as Pyeong'an-do. Corresponding to severe weather, the farmers of Jeju Island implemented agricultural methods such as Dapjeon, Baryeong, molding, and wind-breaking; and the seamen conducted unique arts of navigation such as Hwanjeon, and gravel shipment.

• Journal of the Korean housing association
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.29-40
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• 1994

The purpose of this study is to survey the transition of the type of openings in korean traditional archiectures. To do this, various types of openings at the backside of Daechung of 23 Hyang-Gyo Myung-Ryun-Dangs were investigated. After the classification in some groups according to their types and their periods of constuction, the tasnsition of the type of openings was analysed. Results are as follows. (1) The openings constructed form 16th to 17th century, the earliest form, is a ledged and battened panel window(or framed and ledged panel window) whose mullion is built on the frame of window. It is presumed that these types were widely used before 17th century. (2) The next type is ledged and battened panel window(door) (or framed and ledged panel window) which lacks a mullion. These types were thought to be customed after 18th century. (3) The lastest type, which is appeared from 19th to 20th century, is an characteristic backside opening(ledged and battened panel window or framed and ledged panel window) that among 3 column spacings the central one is enlarged in comparison with the right and left ones. Through this transition pattern of the openings, can be menifested that the trend of 20th century is to enlarge convenience of usage by constuctiong door and eliminating some windows.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.73-88
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• 2012

There are practicality, ornamentality and symbolic in a folding fan among Western accessories, and that is a little tool to enhance the overall harmony of a dress. The purpose of this study was to examine Western folding fans in an effort to shed light on the history, culture, fashion and life of different ages in which folding fans had been used. It's specifically meant to look into the mentality of people who had used folding fans. The meaning and function of folding fans were investigated, and their diverse types and characteristics were analyzed. As a result, it's found that in the West, a folding fan was one of major accessories that had an inseparable relation to popular clothes in each age and were necessary for a perfect coordination. Folding fans had been used as ornaments for Western noble women since the 16th century. After a certain period of time passed by, the 18th century became the heyday of folding fans. At that time, folding fans were one of aesthetic art works that even served as a means of mental exchange.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.115-131
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• 2007

Jeong Woo-tae(?-1809) was a military official who had worked as Byeol-Gan-Yeok in the governmental construction works during the late 18th century through the early 19th century. Byel-Gan-Yeok, literally a special technician, was an official post in the governmental construction works that carries specific technical tasks from the mid 18th century. Over 30 years, Jeong Woo-tae had devoted himself in the construction of various royal tombs, city walls, and palace buildings. He showed superb and various techniques in the works of stone carving and architectural details. After finishing the construction of the tomb of King Jeong-jo's father successfully, he was appointed as a governor of a rural town. Being on duty of the governor, he used to participate in the construction works as a technician. He also made a couple of innovative devices in the field of construction, like a carrying apparatus, Byel-Nok-No. His works secured the setting up of the post of Byel-Gan-Yeok in the governmental construction system in the 19th century. But his technical achievement remained as his own private works rather than developing to the universal growth of the craftsmen's skill. This might be a limitation of the Byel-gan-Yeok's role, whose position was remained in the midway between official and craftsman.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.7
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• pp.89-108
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is not only to trace the examples of 'Chesanja' from the texts and artifacts, but also to restore the terminology of the lost traditional Joseon embroidery technique. 'Chesanja' came on Mongolia and Yuan period affected embroidery techniques of the neighboring countries. Therefore, this study will focus on investigate the process of changing 'Chesanja' into Guya(Goya) through ${\ll}Barktonsa{\gg}$ the foreign language transcriptions of the Chosun dynasty, and examine the generation, fashion, and destruction of this technique with the social technical usage. Around the 16th century of the Joseon Dynasty, 'Chesanja' had been actively used as a decorative techniques to dairy products as well as a Buddhist memorial goods embroidered. Accor- dingly, in the "Beonnyeok-Baktongsa"(1515) appeared together written records with 'Chesanja' 'Gwiyeo[귀여]' the Eonhae(Korean annotation) only had emerged in the Joseon Dynasty. It was still a technique to decorate the edges of royal pillow in the mid-17th century. And we have checked from the text "Baktongsaeonhae"(1677) also. Despite this by the mid-18th century, the term in "Baktongsa-sinseok"(1765) and "Baktongsa-sinseok-eonhae"(1765) had disappeared. This phenomenon suggests the possibility that the production and utilization of 'Chesanja' required the sophisticated process for the ruling class had been declined with the custom of embroidery based on the gradation by colorful threads as the preferred technique. Therefore, 'Chesanja' and 'Gwiyeo'[귀여] disappeared from the records but they can be found in the artifacts of the royal family of 19th century. So Chesanja is calls Guya(Goya) and exists as unique technic only in the royal family.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.143-157
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• 2021

This study aimed to analyze the periodic prevalence of the vegetables during the Joseon era with JoseonWangjoSilrok as a reference. The JoseonWangjoSilrok articles were collected from the Guksapyeonchanwewonhwe site, using web-crawling techniques to extract the relevant information. Out of 384,582 search results, 9,560 articles with vegetable-related keywords were found. According to the annual average vegetable recordings during the regimes of various kings, there were two peaking curves in the 15^th and 18^th centuryJoseon. The found was: 2,750 in the 18^th century, 2,529 in the 15^th century, 1,424 in the 16^th century, and 1,018 in the 19^th century. A Variable Interest Index was designed to ascertain the interestin vegetables of the 27 Joseon kings. The king most interested in vegetables was the 19^th king Sookjong. The second most interested king was Youngjo. There were 5,105 vegetable-related findings within the JoseonWangjoSilrok related to specific species and categories of vegetables. Among the words found: 1,194 were stem-leaves vegetables (23.39%), 1,017 were root vegetables (19.92%), 1,148 were flower-fruit vegetables (22.49%), 1,144 were spice vegetables (22.41%), 95 were mushrooms (1.86%), and 507 were seaweeds (9.93%). Statistical analysis using ANOVA revealed the chronological factors that affected the vegetables' prevalence index.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.298-310
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• 1994

The purpose of this study was 1) to analize the female figures with potbelly in the nude of the 15th-l6th century, 2) to find out the historic event which made these figures appeared, and 3) to clarify the influence these figures on dress. The results were as follows: 1) There was a sudden decrease in population by the Black Death in the Middle of the fourth century, so supplement of labor was urgent demand at that imp. Childbirth was the only way of supplement of manpower. 2) Therefore, the figure of pregnant woman was regarded as the female figure ideal. The artists depicted this figure ideal in nude. 3) This female figure ideal changed the form of dress. Pillow, pad, and special undergarments were used to make potbelly.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.49 no.5
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• pp.23-32
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• 2011

This study will covered socio-cultural background and characteristic of the face-concealing culture of Istanbul which has liberal and westernized clothes culture for women even if it's an city in an Islamic country. This study depended on literatures related to religion, culture and costumes of the Ottoman Empire, especially costumic data on miniature of turkey, which was famous from 16th to 19th century. Since the 17th century, the Ottoman Empire has been gradually influenced by European countries but the change of women's clothes was not considerable. In the 18th century, women's clothes were influenced by foreign fashions. A veil to cover the face was gradually disappeared and traditional Turkish headdresses were replaced by European hats. Through face-concealing culture of Istanbul, we can see some socio-cultural features like Islamic religious character, one's social position, economic situation, westernization and renovation, beauty and completion of costume, duality for the reason of regional difference.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.56-72
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• 1998

Vest is a general term for a sleeveless upper garment and it derives from a kolobus of a sleeveless tunic style that was started to be worn as a substitution of a chiton by the peasantry in Greek period. The kolobus started to be called a colobium or a tunica from Roman period and the former was named for a vest style tunica which was worn by the people of the lower classes in early Roman period. Similarly, a German colobium of North Europe which was worn during the same period was the same kind of clothe as the Roman colobium. The colobium came to be worn over a dalmatica as an outer garment by early Christians when it was the Middle Ages, who succeeded the tradition of colobium as they went through ancient Rome, Creek and Byzantine days. North Germans also succeeded the colobium tradition of ancient Germans as it was and so continued to wear it in tight style. The simple vest style of colobium was getting vanished from the mid of the Middle Agnes and a new style of vest named jupon was started to be worn by soldiers. The jupon was to protect soldiers' bodies from either were cold weather or enemies wearing under armors as it was made with double cotton pad by quilt. From 14th century, the jupon began to be worn by not only soldiers but also the humble of lower classes. All the jupon which were made in quilting and padding of that time began to be named a pourpoint by the humble. When Renaissance in 16th century came, the pourpoint began to be developed to an exaggerating body-line style. The neckline of pourpoint was getting highly influenced by Spain and a peacecod-belly of it emphasized the exaggerated masculine beauty of Renaissance by padding in round. The sleeves were puffed out and the whole purpoint was made to expose an inner chemise by slashing vertically or obliquely. But in 17th century, the pourpoint has been changed into more simple style without padding, puffing out and slashing influenced by the citizens' clothes of Netherlands. The pourpoint came to be more comfortable bulky style with short sleeves or sleeveless and straight side lines. The pourpoint in mid 17th century turned to be a bolero jacket style by gradually being tightened. It had been then changed into a vest style with sleeves and worn under an overcoat with the name of vest in the end of 17th century. The early vest was 2∼3 inches les in length than the overcoat and had long sleeves and many ornamental buttons on front. It was also made as a home wear to be worn it alone at home. In 18th century, the length of the vest became shorter compared with that of 17th century and the most important decorative item in clothes. It again came to have complete sleeveless vest style and had very short length reaching waist in the end of 18th century. When it was in 19th century, the vest had developed into more various style and colors and style had been applied to be worn by individuals with their tastes. Around the end of 19th century, the increasing tendency to be casual by industrialization influenced on clothes in all aspects of life and so the male vest has been gradually changed into more casual style. Nowadays, it has been developing into various uses in modern male clothes to show their characters.

• Journal of Korean Library and Information Science Society
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• v.44 no.3
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• pp.447-470
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to examine how the cultural aspects of the publication of literary collections have been changed from its time throughout the entire Joseon Dynasty. At the royal court in the early Joseon Dynasty, the need for publication of the literary collections has consistently arisen to preserve writings of the noted sages, and the Joseon government was also taking the lead and promoting the publication of the literary collections. From the 16th to the early 18th century, the publication was intensively made at the local governments led by local governors. From the 17th to the early to middle of the 18th century, the finances of local governments were limited with the changed taxation system, and there had been a dramatic decrease in the number of literary publication projects. On the other hand, with the sudden increase of the number of Seowons during the reign of King Sukjong, the focus of the literary publication was moved to Seowon from the 18th to the 19th century. After the enforcement of the Seowon Abolition Decree, the collections were still published at Seowons, however from the end of 19th century, the publication of literary collections had been explosively made by aristocrats who did not belong to the institution of Seowon or could not receive Seowon's support, which spreaded over the entire Yangban culture.