• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.263-278
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• 2004

Ursolic acid (UA) and Oleanolic acid (ONA), known as urson, micromerol and malol, are pentacyclic triterpenoid compounds which naturally occur in a large number of vegetarian foods, medicinal herbs, and plants. They may occur in their free acid form or as aglycones for triterpenoid saponins, which are comprised of a triterpenoid aglycone, linked to one or more sugar moieties. Therefore UA and ONA are similar in pharmacological activity. Lately scientific research, which led to the identification of UA and ONA, revealed that several pharmacological effects, such as antitumor, hepato-protective, anti-inflammatory, anticarcinogenic, antimicrobial, and anti-hyperlipidemic could be attributed to UA and ONA. Here, we introduced the effect of UA and ONA on acutely barrier disrupted and normal hairless mouse skin. To evaluate the effects of UA and ONA on epidermal permeability barrier recovery, both flanks of 8-12 week-old hairless mice were topically treated with either 0.01-0.1mg/mL UA or 0.1-1mg/mL ONA after tape stripping, and TEWL (transepidermal water loss) was measured. The recovery rate increased in those UA or ONA treated groups (0.1mg/mL UA and 0.5mg/mL ONA) at 6h more than 20% compared to vehicle treated group (p < 0.05). Here, we introduced the effects of UA and ONA on acute barrier disruption and normal epidermal permeability barrier function. For verifying the effects of UA and ONA on normal epidermal barrier, hydration and TEWL were measured for 1 and 3 weeks after UA and ONA applications (2mg/mL per day). We also investigated the features of epidermis and dermis using electron microscopy (EM) and light microscopy (LM). Both samples increased hydration compared to vehicle group from 1 week without TEWL alteration (p < 0.005). EM examination using RuO4 and OsO4 fixation revealed that secretion and numbers of lamellar bodies and complete formation of lipid bilayers were most prominent (ONA=UA > vehicle). LM finding showed that thickness of stratum corneum (SC) was slightly increased and especially epidermal thickening and flattening was observed (UA > ONA > vehicle). We also observed that UA and ONA stimulate epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via PPAR Protein expression of involucrin, loricrin, and filaggrin increased at least 2 and 3 fold in HaCaT cells treated with either ONA (10${\mu}$M) or UA (10${\mu}$M) for 24 h respectively. This result suggested that the UA and ONA can improve epidermal permeability barrier function and induce the epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via PPAR Using Masson-trichrome and elastic fiber staining, we observed collagen thickening and elastic fiber elongation by UA and ONA treatments. In vitro results of collagen and elastin synthesis and elastase inhibitory activity measurements were also confirmed in vivo findings. These data suggested that the effects of UA and ONA related to not only epidermal permeability barrier functions but also dermal collagen and elastic fiber synthesis. Taken together, UA and ONA can be relevant candidates to improve epidermal and dermal functions and pertinent agents for cosmeseutical applications.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.329-336
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• 2016

Cutaneous microvasculature plays a critical role in age-associated skin changes. A considerable reduction of number and size of vessels has been observed in the upper dermis of elderly skin. Forsythiae fructus (FF), the dried fruit of plant Forsythia suspensa (F. suspensa), has been traditionally used as an herbal medicine to treat inflammatory diseases and bacterial diseases. However, its regulatory effect on angiogenic responses has not been elucidated in skin. Therefore, we analyzed secretory profiles upon treatment of FF extract using array designed to detect angiogenesis-associated mediators in human keratinocytes. Because keratinocyte-derived VEGF (vascular endothelial growth factor) has been regarded as a potent factor for new microvasculature under the epidermis, we further investigated the effect of FF extract on VEGF production. We observed that the VEGF expression of mRNA and protein level was increased by about 2 folds in a dose-dependent manner after FF extract treatment. In signaling experiments, FF extract induced rapid p38 MAPK activation within 5 min, and the activation was totally abrogated by pretreatment with a p38 MAPK specific inhibitor. The FF-induced VEGF upregulation was also significantly attenuated by a p38 MAPK inhibition. Taken together, FF extract induces VEGF production via p38 MAPK activation in human epidermal keratinocytes. These novel findings suggest that FF is useful as a potential agent with pro-angiogenic activity and may help to improve age-dependent reduction of the microvasculature in aged skin or to heal skin wound.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.3
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• pp.239-247
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• 2018

Chronic inflammation is known to have effects on various diseases such as gout, cancer, dementia, atopic disease, and obesity. In addition, since some signal cascades involved in the development of inflammation are known to affect the damage and aging of the skin tissue, studies are being conducted actively to control the inflammation mechanism. In order to mitigate or prevent inflammatory response, a number of researches have been made to develop anti-inflammatory materials from some plants. In particular, Stevia rebaudiana produces steviol glycosides (SG), a natural sweetener with a distinctive flavor. Studies on some of SG have been shown to have anti-inflammatory activity. Researchers of this study expected that more SG also possess anti-inflammatory activity, besides stevioside, rebaudioside A, and steviol. In order to confirm this possibility, the researchers screened inhibition activity of various steviol glucosides for NO production in RAW 264.7 cell lines. As a result, steviol ${\beta}-glucopyranosyl$ ester (SGE) showed the highest inhibitory activity among steviol derivatives treated at the same molar concentration. In addition, we found that mRNA expression level of $interleukin-1{\alpha}$ ($IL-1{\alpha}$), $interleukin-1{\beta}$ ($IL-1{\beta}$), cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2), nuclear factor kappa-light chain-enhancer of activated B cells ($NF-{\kappa}B$) and inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS) was also decreased in a dose-dependent manner. These results show that SGE inhibits anti-inflammatory activity and NO production in mouse macrophage RAW 264.7 cells. It was confirmed that SGE has potential to be applied as an anti-inflammatory material.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.1 s.49
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• pp.97-102
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• 2005

One of the key molecules involved in skin moisture is hyaluronan (hyaluronic acid, HA) with its associated water of hydration. The predominant component of the ECM (extracellular matrix) of skin is HA. It Is the primordial and the simplest of the GAGs (glycosaminoglycans), a water-sorbed macromolecule In extracellular matrix, Included between the vital cells of epidermis. In the skin, HA was previously thought to derive extlusively from dermis. But, recent studies revealed that HA could be synthesized in epidermis. Flavonoids are polyphenolic compounds that is found mainly in foods of plant origin. Kaempferol was known to increase glutathione synthesis in human keratinocyte. And quercetin blocked PPAR-meidated keratinocyte differentiation as lipoxygenase inhibitors. In this study, we sought to evaluate the effect of flavonid, kaempferol and quercetin on production HA in keratinocyte. We examined the changes of three human hyaluronan synthase genes (HASI, HAS2, HAS3) expression by semi-quantitative RT-PCR when kaempferol or quercetin was added to cultured human keratinocytes. We found that these flavonoids slightly upregulated HAS2, HAS3 mRNA after 24 h. And we investigated the effect on HA production by ELISA. When we evaluated the level of HA in culture medium after 24 h incubation. We found enhanced accumulation of HA in the culture medium. Although the effects of above flavonoids are less than retinoic acid, the data indicate that kaempferol, quercetin can dose-dependently increase the level of HA in epidermis cell line. It suggested that flavonoid, kaempferol, and quercetin increased production of HA in skin and it helped to elevate skin moisture and improve facial wrinkle.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.149-162
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• 2000

Coenzyme Q10 is found in all tissues including skin and it is the well-known coenzyme for mitochondrial enzymes. The electron and proton transfer functions of the quinone ring are of fundamental importance for the oxidative phosphorylation pathway to generate energy in the cells. Coenzyme Q10 has been studied as a potent antioxidant molecule in the skin. It is involved in the skin's response to UVR irradiation. The concentration of this antioxidant in UVR exposed skin is higher than in non-exposed skin. However, recent studies have also shown that coenzyme Q10 is one of the first antioxidants to be depleted when skin is UVR-irradiated. This indicates that coenzyme Q10 is primarily involved in defense mechanisms of the skin. Therefore, we questioned whether coenzyme Q10 shows reulatory effect of melanogenesis. Here we report that coenzyme Q10 inhibits melanin neosynthesis of normal human melanocytes grown in culture, and lightens UVB-induced hyperpigmentation of the guinea pig skin in vivo. We treated human melanocytes with 0.05mM to 0.5mM of coenzyme Q10 for a total of two days. This inhibited melanin neosynthesis of cultured human melanocytes dose-dependently. The inhibitory effect of coenzyme Q10 was as effective as kojic acid or vitamin C on cultured human melanocytes. CoQ10 didn't have direct inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity in in vitro tyrosine hydroxylase activity To further clarify the effect of coenzyme Q10 on the melanogenesis, we established UVB-induced hyperpigmentation on the shaved backs of brownish guinea pigs. The UVB intensity was 500mJ/$\textrm{cm}^2$ and the total energy dose was 1,500 mJ/$\textrm{cm}^2$. The animals were exposed to UVB radiation one times a week for three consecutive weeks. Coenzyme Q10, kojic acid, Arbutin, vitamin C(1% in vehicle) or vehicle alone as a control were then topically applied daily to the hyperpigmented areas twelve times per week far four successive weeks. The lightening effect was evaluated by visual scoring, chromameter and immunohistochemistry. Coenzyme Q10 had lightening effect on the UVB-induced hyperpigmentation without any other side effects, whereas another compounds showed weak lightening efficacies. Therefore, these results suggest that coenzyme Q10 may be useful for solving physiological hyperpigmenting problems for cosmetic purposes.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.3
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• pp.255-263
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• 2021

Soybean extract is known to play an important role in preventing and treating diseases associated with aging, cancer, obesity, and cardiovascular disease. A recent has revealed that soybean extract has a potent effect on hair growth in in vitro, in vivo, and clinical studies. Recently, it has been reported that their fermented extracts exhibit numerous and high efficacy, as compared to general extracts. However, the underlying mechanisms that induce hair growth after using fermented soybean extract are not well understood. The present study aimed to determine the effects of fermented Jeju soybean (FJS) extract on hair growth, with a focus on the underlying mechanisms similar to those of minoxidil. We conducted in vitro and ex vivo investigations and clinical studies. FJS extract enhanced dermal papilla cell proliferation, VEGF levels, and potassium channel opening. Moreover, it promoted human hair follicle elongation. These effects were comprehensively demonstrated in the clinical results, in which FJS extract-containing shampoo improved hair density after 24 weeks of utilization. Collectively, the results of this study demonstrate that FJS extract promotes hair growth and inhibits hair loss through a mechanism similar to that of minoxidil in hair follicles.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.4
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• pp.361-368
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• 2021

The objective of this study was to establish technology for removing bacteria with human- and eco-friendly material. Staphylococcus aureus as an important component for balanced equilibrium among microbiomes, was cultured under various concentrations of phosphate. Experimental observation relating to physical properties was performed in an addition of phosphate buffer. Statistically minimum value of size and hardness using atomic force microscope was observed on the matured biofilm at 5 mM concentration of phosphate. As a result of absorbance for the biofilm tagged with dye, concentration of biofilm was reduced with phophate, too. To identify whether this reduction by phosphate at the 5 mM is caused by counter ion or not, sodium chloride was treated to the biofilm under the same condition. To elucidate components of the biofilm counting analysis of the biofilm using time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry was employed. The secondary ions from the biofilm revealed that alteration of physical properties is consistent to the change of extracellular polymeric substrate (EPS) for the biofilm. Viscoelastic characterization of the biofilm using a controlled shear stress rheometer, where internal change of physical properties could be detected, exhibited a static viscosity and a reduction of elastic modulus at the 5 mM concentration of phosphate. Accordingly, bacteria at the 5 mM concentration of phosphate are attributed to removing the EPS through a reduction of elastic modulus for bacteria. We suggest that the reduction of concentration of biofilm induces dispersion which assists to easily spread its dormitory. In conclusion, it is elucidated that an addition of phosphate causes removal of EPS, and that causes a function of antibiotic.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.28 no.8
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• pp.908-916
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• 2018

Hair loses melanin with aging, which leads to hair graying. The change in hair color is caused by a reduction in tyrosinase activity and an accumulation of hydrogen peroxide ($H_2O_2$) in hair follicles. The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of ethanolic extract of Oryza sativa (OREE) on melanin production and antioxidative activity in B16F1 cells. In this study, OREE showed low DPPH radical scavenging activity and reducing power. However, it displayed a strong antioxidative effect against intracellular $H_2O_2$ in live cells. OREE did not inhibit DOPA oxidation activity in vitro, but it increased tyrosinase activity at a concentration of $64{\mu}g/ml$. OREE at a concentration higher than $32{\mu}g/ml$ showed cell toxicity in B16F1 cells. However, OREE at a concentration higher than $8{\mu}g/ml$ not only increased melanin synthesis in a dose-dependent manner in B16F1 cells but also increased melanin synthesis in cells treated with $H_2O_2$ inhibiting melanin synthesis. To confirm the effect of OREE on melanin production, Western blot analysis was performed. The results revealed that OREE increased the expression levels of tyrosine hydroxylase and tyrosinase-related protein-2 (TRP-2) involved in melanin production in the $H_2O_2$-treated cells in which melanin production was inhibited. The findings suggest that OREE could improve melanin synthesis and be available for development of hair cosmetics aimed at improving melanin production.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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• v.43 no.11
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• pp.1695-1700
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• 2014

Oriental herbal liquor (Yakju) is a type of Korean traditional alcoholic beverage that uses Nuruk and oriental herbs for fermentation. The purpose of this study was to develop cosmetic ingredients using Jubak, which is a by-product of alcoholic fermentation of oriental herbal liquor. To investigate antioxidant, whitening, and anti-aging effects of Jubak, we prepared extract of Jubak and its solvent fractions. Ethyl acetate fraction (KSD E4-3) showed the most prominent free radical [1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH)] scavenging activity ($SC_{50}$: 0.75 mg/mL). KSD E4-3 significantly inhibited in vitro mushroom tyrosinase activity ($IC_{50}$: 0.82 mg/mL) and reduced the melanin contents in mouse melanoma melanocyte, B16F10 cells. KSD E4-3 down-regulated protein expression of tyrosinase related proteins (TRP)-1, -2, which play key roles in melanogenesis. For anti-aging effects, inhibition of matrix metalloproteinase (MMPs) expression was evaluated using human keratinocyte, HaCaT cells. Treatment of HaCaT cells with KSD E4-3 reduced expression of MMP-1, -2, -9 and inhibited proteolytic activities of MMP-2, -9. These results suggest that KSD E4-3 induces down-regulation of cellular melanogenesis and protects against photoaging induced by UVB-induced damage. Thus KSD E4-3 could potentially be a valuable cosmetic ingredient.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.738-744
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• 2018

Sasa quelpaertensis Nakai is a native Korean plant that grows only on Mt. Halla of Jeju Island. Its leaf is used for a popular bamboo tea due to its various health-promoting properties, and it has been increasingly used as food and cosmetic ingredients. To utilize the S. quelpaertensis leaf efficiently, the preparation method for phytochemical-rich extract (PRE) using the leaf's residue was previously reported, which was produced after hot water extraction. This study was undertaken to evaluate the anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory potential of PRE and its solvent fractions. The ethyl acetate fraction of PRE (EPRE) showed higher DPPH, ABTS, and superoxide radical scavenging activities, and it effectively inhibited intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) and nitric oxide (NO) production in lipopolysaccharides (LPS)-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells. EPRE also induced the expression of heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1) by increasing the level of nuclear factor E2-related factor 2 (Nrf2) in a nuclear fraction. The inhibiting effect of EPRE on LPS-induced NO production was partially reversed by the HO-1 inhibitor (zinc protoporphyrin, ZPP), suggesting that HO-1 is involved in suppressing NO production. Taken together, the results suggest that EPRE has potential as a promising anti- oxidant and anti-inflammatory agent.