• Proceedings of the Korea Contents Association Conference
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• 2010.05a
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• pp.633-634
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• 2010

축대칭 함몰지형 위를 진행하는 확장형 완경사 방정식의 해석해를 유도하였다. 변수분리법을 이용하여 지배방정식을 상미분방정식으로 만들었으며, 파속과 군속도로 표현되는 계수들은 Hunt(1979)의 근사식을 이용하여 양함수의 형태로 표현하였다. 마지막으로 Frobenius기법을 이용하여 확장형 완경사방정식의 해를 유도하였다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2000.09a
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• pp.95-102
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• 2000

선형분산을 가정한 Berkhoff(1972)의 완경사방정식은 단일주기파(monochromaticwave)에 대해 심해로부터 천해까지 수심에 제한 없이 파랑의 변형을 해석할 수 있으나 식의 유도과정 중 바닥이 완경사(｜∇h｜/kh≪1) 라는 가정을 도입함으로써, 바닥곡률항(∇$^2$h)과 바닥경사의 제곱항(｜∇h｜$^2$)으로 대표되는 고차수심효과를 무시하였다. (중략)

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1993.07a
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• pp.29-33
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• 1993

이제까지 천해역에서의 파랑변형을 계산하는 여러가지 수치모형이 제안되어 있다. 그 가운데 Berkhoff(1972)가 유도한 완경사방정식을 수치계산이 쉽고, 쇄파감쇠 및 반사의 고려가 용이한 형태로 개량한 환산·경도(1985)의 시간의존 쌍곡선형 완경사방정식은 널리 이용되고 있다. 계산대상영역에 파가 비스듬하게 입사하는 경우, 외해측 경계뿐만 아니라, 파가 입사하는 측의 측방경계도 입사경계가 될 수 있다. (중략)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.197-203
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• 1998

An approach of decomposing the reflecting components is proposed by using the mild-slope equation of hyperbolic type which has the similar form to the shallow water equations. The approach is verified on Booij's problem and sinusoidally varying ripples. Inclusion of higher-order bottom effect given by chamberlain and Porter(1995) yields even more satisfactory results than the Berkhoff's mild-slope equation when compared with finite element solution or experiments.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.55-63
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• 1998

Recently the modified mild-slope equation has been developed by several researchers using different approaches, which, compared to the Berkhoff's mild-slope equation, includes additional terms proportional to the square of bottom slope and to the bottom curvature. By examining this equation, it is shown that both terms are equally important in intermediate-depth water, but in shallow water the influence of the bottom curvature term diminishes while that of the bottom slope square term remains significant. In order to examine the importance of these terms in more detail, the modified mild-slope equation and the Berkhoff's mild-slope equation are tested for the problems of wave reflection from a plane slope, a non-plane slope, and periodic ripples. It is shown that, when only the bottom slope is concerned, the mild-slope equation can give accurate results up to a slope of 1 in 1 rather than 1 in 3, which, until now, has been known as the limiting bottom slope for its proper application. It is also shown that the bottom curvature term plays an important role in modeling wave propagation over a bottom topography with relatively mild variation, but, where the bottom slope is not small, the bottom slope square term should also be included for more accurate results.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.845-854
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• 1998

Following the approach of Ebersole (1985), water wave transformation is predicted using the eikonal equation and transport equation for wave energy which are reduced from the extended mild-slope equation of Massel (1993), and also the irrotationality of wave number vectors. The higher-order bottom effect terms, i.e., squared bottom slope and bottom curvature, are neglected in the study of Ebersole but are included in the present study. It was expected that, if these terms are included in this study, the approach would give more accurate solution in the case of rapidly varying topography. But, the expectation was frustrated. It is probably because, in the case of rapidly varying topography, the diffraction effect which is included in the eikonal equation does not work well and thus the solution is deteriorated.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.149-157
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• 2001

From the weakly nonlinear mild-slope wave equations introduced by Nadaoka et al.(1994, 1997), a set of weakly nonlinear wave equations for rapidly varying topography are derived by including the bottom curvature and slope-squared tenns ignored in the original equations ofNadaoka et al. To solve the linear version of extended wave equations derived in this study one-dimensional finite difference numerical model is con¬structed. The perfonnance of the model is tested for the case of wave reflection from a plane slope with various inclination. The numerical results are compared with the results calculated using other numerical models reported earlier. The comparison shows that the accuracy of the numerical model is improved significantly in comparison with that of the original equations ofNadaoka et al. by including a complete set of bottom curva1w'e and slope¬squared terms for a rapidly varying topography.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.360-371
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• 2006

In order to calculate waves propagating into the shallow water region, a generalized parabolic approximate model is presented. The model is derived from the modified mild slope equation and includes all the existing parabolic models presented in the paper. Numerical results are presented in comparison to laboratory data of Berkhoff et al.(1982). The existing parabolic model shows almost same accuracy against the modified parabolic model and both results of models stand in closer agreement to the laboratory data. Therefore the existing parabolic model based on mild slope equation is a useful tool to compute shallow water waves which turns out to be more fast and stable in computational aspect.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.39-44
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• 2009

To improve the accuracy of numerical simulation of wave trans- formation across the surf zone, nonlinear shoaling effect based on Shuto's empirical formula and breaking mechanism are induced in the elliptic modified mild slope equation. The variations of shoaling coefficient with relative depth and deep water wave steepness are successfully reproduced and show good agreements with Shuto's formula. Breaking experiments show larger wave height distributions than linear model due to nonlinear shoaling but breaking mechanism shows a little bit larger damping in 1/20 beach slope experiment.

• Water for future
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.39-48
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• 1993

Since major reason of disaster in coastal area is wave action, prediction of wave deformation is one of the most important problems to ocean engineers. Wave deformations are due to physical factors such as shoaling effect, reflection, diffraction, refraction, scattering and radiation etc. Recently, numerical models are widely utilized to calculate wave deformation. In this study, the mild slope equation was used in calculatin gwave deformation which considers diffraction and refraction. In order to slove the governing equation, finite element method is introduced. Even though this method has some difficulties, it is proved to predict the wave deformation accurately even in complicated boundary conditions. To verify the validity of the numerical calculation, experiments were carried out in a model harbour of rectangular shape which has mild slope bottom. The results by F.E.M. are compared with those of both Lee's method and the experiment. The results of these three methods show reasonable agreement.