• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.136-149
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• 2007

This study researched the costume manufacture process by having the musical 'Christmas Carol' as an example and specifically presented the costume manufacture process of an actually performance work, thus it aimed to be helpful theoretically and realistically, by allowing theatrical costume manufacturers and majors in theatrical costume to be informed of the systematically practical affair process of the theatrical costume manufacture and by exhibiting the research work of costume composition aiming at reproducing a silhouette in the process such as costume composition and sewing, and the effectively manufacturing methods such as the costume composition application and the sewing method development aiming at the activity of performers. In the empirical research, it analyzed the features of characters and arranged the manufacture points while actually manufacturing the performance costume, and clarified the systematically performance costume manufacture process such as a manufacture meeting${\rightarrow}$costume list preparation$\rightarrow$work-instruction sheet preparation$\rightarrow$pattern manufacture$\rightarrow$sewing$\rightarrow$performance and inspection. Through performing the manufacture of the really performance work, it is hoped that this study contributes to the development of performance art circles, by presenting a step and a method of professionally theatrical costume to the performance manufacturers and the theatrical costume manufacturers at present when the theatrical costume is solidifying its position as a professional sphere, in the performance and an, has a meaning as the initially empirical research, which can exhibit as a guide of realistically and empirically educational contents for theatrical costume aiming to bring up professional staff for theatrical costume, and becomes help in the efficiently theatrical costume manufacture realistically.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.90-107
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• 2007

Modernization movement has affected classical operas. Today, classical operas are often re-interpreted from the modern perspective and played differently only with the storyline maintained. Also, operas are increasingly performed outside traditional theaters as the boundaries between stage and audience become less obvious. Accordingly, stage costumes are being differently designed than before. New attempts are being made to look costumes in a harmony with increasingly streamlined stage machinery. This helps increase public attention on operas, consequently promoting the opera industry. This study examines modernization of opera costumes. For this study, the author worked as one of costume design staff for "Faust," which was played in Sungnam Art Center from November 24, 2005 to November 27, 2005 in commemoration of the opening of the center. The following outcomes of the crowd are drawn from this study. A variety of splendid pink dresses, ribbons, dolls, hand mirror, and hair bands were used to express haughty girls with "Princess Syndrome." Fashion models, the envy of all woman, wore fashionable clothes including luxury dresses, fur-coats, high heels, purses, and hats, Models also had big shopping bags and gift boxes to symbolize shopping lovers in a modern society. Gay men wore tight leather trousers and vest and sleeves shirts with deeply cut neckline to express their preference for feminie style. their clothes were splendid colors that normally women liked such as gold, purple, light green, scarlet, and silver. Soldiers were in combat uniform representing their participation in the war. In particular, clothes stained with dirt, iron helmet, crutches, and canteens were used to vividly express soldiers coming back home from the war. Modern opera costumes now help reduce the time and space between stage and audience, improve economic efficiency, and meet the audience's needs for various style.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1291-1304
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• 2010

This study examined that the black dress is the one of having aesthetic value as well as symbolism while delivering specific image, from the perspective of color, which is essential element in forming design of the Stage Costume. This study carried out the theoretical research of centering on the literature consideration and the empirical research of centering on a case side by side. It analyzed the works and design based on the clothing, which had been performed in Korea with a revival version of Musical 'Chicago'. Aesthetic characteristics in more than two are being shown in one dress. If so, the following are the results that considered on aesthetics characteristics in black, which were shown in Stage Costume of Musical 'Chicago', which is increasing the theme consciousness through Stage Costume, which is simple and sexy black. First, as emotion of coming to stay in agony and sadness on the basic fact called death, the Stage Costume in black led to being shown sorrow of implying death, fear and murder. Second, the dignity, which corresponds to noble beauty in the aesthetic category, expresses dignity and elegance with flat material in black, and is revealed the aspect of expressing fashion, which emphasized spirit rather than body. Third, as the aesthetic characteristic of causing sexual desire, the sensuality was shown, which has the aspect of being expressed through exposure, concealment and emphasis. Fourth, it was expressed with androgyny, which evokes androgynous image. Fifth, black in Musical 'Chicago' formed the whole mood with a sense of weight by arranging the whole feeling with color in similar tone, thereby having been indicated the harmony of being formed with theme, which is aimed to be indicated in drama.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.581-595
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• 2006

Modernization movement has affected classical operas. Today, classical operas are often re-interpreted from the modern perspective and played differently only with the storyline maintained. This study examines modernization of opera costumes. For this study, the author worked as one of costume design staff for "Faust," which was played in Sungnam Art Center from November 24, 2005 to November 27, 2005 in commemoration of the opening of the center. The following outcomes are drawn from this study. Two types of costumes were designed for Faust. An old black shirt, grey checkered trousers, and a white gown were designed to express the old Faust, a respected scholar in his 50s, who was erudite and competent. Red checker of the shirt represented passion and blue checker of the shirt symbolized youth. The cotton trousers were beige, the most favorite color among male college students. For Mephistopheles, a white suit, black shirt, and white neck tie were designed to express the Devil, who changed his face instantly. A white suit symbolized that Mephistopheles looked like an angel, while a black shirt suggested that Mephistopheles, in reality, was the Devil. A white one-piece dress and light jade green cardigan were designed for Margarete, who was innocent and virtuous. The white dress represented innocence and purity of Margarete and the light jade green cardigan symbolized a maiden pure.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.2
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• pp.105-119
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• 2004

Cultural hybridization and global cross-fertilization, begun since the 1990s, mean the hybrid mixture of the low-class popular arts and the high-class fine arts and have found expression in intertextuality by means of the thinking system of de-constructuralist post-modernism. This study was intended to investigate the artistic intertextuality between fashion and art frontiere, especially between such fields as 'animation', 'music', and 'performing arts' and 'fashion', which shows the greatest characteristic of the phenomenon that the non-mainstream culture flows into the mainstream culture. It also aimed to investigate the intertextuality between 'technology' and 'fashion' as the delivery room of the youth culture and copycat culture due to the benefit of technologies since the 20th-century digital revolution. Animation as the neo-pop art with the popular code coming to the forefront in the 21th century integrated high-class fashion and low-class fashion into one through the combination of fashion and humor, and the musical element referring to the social difference of the cultural field and the social strata is becoming the 21th-century fashion icon through its fusion with the pictorial tendency along with the leisure-time life of the non-mainstream strata. In terms of intertextuality in performing arts, fashion style performs an important role in the presentation of performing arts and since the de-construction of the fin-de-ciecle form and its fusion with media have taken place, fashion works become and element of the origin that has an influence on a series of film, dance, dramatic elements and the like. The paradigm of technology made it socially and culturally possible to achieve the architecture of clothing system necessary for fashionable technical clothing by allowing the possibility of imitation, the function of technology to form popular culture. The intertextual tendency in the 21th-century fashion began from the de-constructive phenomenon of existing norms and now takes the multicultural character of surpassing a certain domain or concept. And it positions itself as the total art of spearheading the low-class culture and the non-mainstream culture as the hybrid domain of mainstream and non-mainstream cultures or high-class and low-class cultures.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.7
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• pp.86-99
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• 2009

The audience of the performing arts enacted on the stage appreciate acting of the characters in a play to understand its plot, identify with the characters, and comprehend the message and subject matters of the play. Stage make-up in particular should assist audience in comprehending the story without overpowering or distracting the script. Stage make-up is a crucial means to visualize occupation, class, personality, and age of the characters. Thus it is an essential means in producing a high quality performance. The aim of the study is to examine character-emphasis make-up for a play by reviewing theories on the concepts and methods of the stage make-up. The methodology of the study was to analyze character make-up of the adopted play The Madwoman of Chaillot (La Folle de Chaillot) translated from the original French, as a case study. The technique and features of the character make-up of the play were examined, and functions of each factor of the character make-up depending on a role were also examined. The results of the study are as follows. The stage make-up for creating and expressing a distinctive personality of the characters in a play must integrate environmental factors external to a performance such as lighting and scale of a venue. Moreover the stage make-up must adopt and reconstruct internal factors of the play such as interpretation of the original work, subject matters, interpretation of the script, character analysis based on the discussion with a director, and design setting.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.301-314
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• 2017

This study focused on the movement adaptability of $19^{th}$ century classical opera stage costumes. Researchers focused on a basic $19^{th}$ century women's jacket. The study analyzed movement adaptability using ROM (range-of-motion) tests of the upper limb flexion and abduction postures. It developed two research garments to mimic basic $19^{th}$ century style jackets with or without gussets at the axilla. The ROM experiment identified the gusset size as 11cm in length. Experimental postures included upper limb flexion and abduction. The study measured subjective comfort at 8 postures. These postures included the flexion and abduction of the arms and torso. Subjects also evaluated the subjective comfort of the rotation posture of the torso. Researchers evaluated the similarities between research garments' silhouettes and the $19^{th}$ century women's jacket. The study used a 3D virtual fitting system to evaluate fit, and specialists further analyzed fit with photographs and 3D virtual graphics. The results are as follows. The silhouettes of both research garments were similar to the silhouettes of the $19^{th}$ century western women's jacket. The jacket with axilla gusset had a better fit than the basic style jacket. The basic style jacket without the axilla gusset showed limited movement adaptability at the shoulder joint and it caused discomfort at the axilla and elbow. The 3D virtual fit test was not a suitable method for analyzing silhouette similarity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.4
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• pp.45-57
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• 2010

The costume in musical is an important visual factor that contributes to the level of stage completion by for the character and overall atmosphere of the whole play. Besides, as if it is has a fixed times in the drama, it has to produce to consider an opinion of producer to express the theme, atmosphere of a play and especially in the period adventure drama, to revive as it is historical dress, there is not creation at stage of today. This research is studied into the stage costume of the musical 'Jekyll and Hyde' an adapted to express image of good and evil in the one character. For this research, it researched costume of Victoria period in England, study character of main actor by analysis of the play in an original work, examine the stage costume of the musical 'Jekyll and Hyde' performed in the inside and outside of the country. In the musical stage costume, by character difficult of stage costume, factor of design feature divided to good and evil and compare feature design of stage costume, research new design express method to consider musical acting, moreover through designing and producing the costume to be suitable for the content of the work. This research consists of research and actual production of work, study of documentary records, collection and analysis of overseas performances, news releases, video material and internet research were the methods of this study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.6
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• pp.1-13
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to examine the trend of plural eclecticism in costumes appearing on the stages of the world's top 4 musicals based on the general researches and establishments made of the mentioned concept. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, the aspects of eclectics appearing in overall pieces can be defined as situational eclecticism. It can be attributed to the dramatic elements contrasted in the storyline of the musical and occurs in mixture with various situations. Showing combinations of costumes from varying situations at once in the same stage makes the audience feel the dynamic elements of the piece. Second, the aspect of temporal eclecticism, which can be seen in the 'Phantom of the Opera' regarding mixture of crinoline style and art nouveau style, resulted from the partial mixture of classical elements for maximizing visual beauty in the historical pieces. Third, the aspect of spatial eclecticism can be observed in the musical 'Miss Saigon', which used costumes that combined multicultural elements by exposing different spaces and cultures such as America and Vietnam. It eclectically expresses the unique cultures and costumes of each country. Fourth, 'Les Miserables' shows the aspect of situational eclecticism, through its use of mixture of situations in various aspects, and in particular, the male and female costumes that blur the boundaries of life, death, and costume, the mixture of people's costume and aristocrat's costume, and the situational elements where the good and evil are contrasted are integrated eclectically to make the story dramatic.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.18-35
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to offer a holistic description of the role demanded of costume designers to provide qualitative improvement of costume designs for small- and medium-sized musicals. The study accomplishes this by analyzing the relationship between the play and costume design in musicals and also by examining the process and environments in which costumes of small-sized theater companies' original musicals are produced. The methods of study are empirical research of literature related to dress, stage art, and culture & arts from both domestic and foreign publications; research of visual materials related to plays; and production and analysis of theatrical performances in which the researcher has participated as a costume designer. The results of the study are as follows. First, professionalism of the play and visual perfection of the work may be enhanced by costume designers actively participating in meetings with staff from each field of the play. Second, by taking advantage of the unique aspects of the work environment of small-sized theater companies' small- and medium-sized original musicals, such as harsh situations of regular and periodical meetings with all staff member, the designer may consider the director's intentions and concepts of the play, but should display more creative and autonomous design abilities. Third, because the costume designers of small- and medium-sized original musical plays are given a small budget and short production periods, the ability to systematically manage budget and production periods and the ability to flexibly handle unexpected incidents during the play is essential.