This study aims at the improvement of sewing function through understandings of dynamic property about the sewing methods and the thread material selection in knitwear. The tensile strength and shear of KES-FB and the Instron were measured for the analysis of the mechanical properties. The knit cloth was structured In the plain stitch, $1\times1$ rib stitch and $2\times1$ rib stitch with the combination of wool and cotton. With regard to the sewing method, intralooping and interlacing were applied. For thread materials, polyester, cotton, wool and silk were used. Since silk has the lowest extension and similar values regardless of its construction in intralooping, it is available knit apparel with uniform elastic recoverv. It also has small shearing resistance. It can be used in apparel which needs big mobility, but it causes rutting problem. Therefore, it is suitable to use intralooping. When the same sewing yarn and textile are use, it can lower shearing resistance and extension in intralooping, Since wool needs a lot of extension energy and it can be cut, intralooping is more suitable than interlacing in sewing of wool. In interlacing using polyester, extension and shearing resistance are high. Therefore, it is suitable for knit sewing with high massing. Silk is not suitable for interlacing since it can be rut. Even though knit materials are different, the RT values of polyester and cotton are similar in same construction. Therefore, they can be substituted each other considering resilience after sewing.

Sang-uiwon was the bureau of Royal attire in Chosun Dynasty. It had been established in King TAEJO, Chosun Dynasty. The 597 artisans, sorted by 68 types were assigned to Sang-uiwon. The ministry of Taxation[Hojo] and Tribute bureau[Seonhvecheong] had charged of finances of Sang-uiwon. According to the Regular rule of Sang-uiwon, there were five types for finances. The principal income tax[Won Gong] was the assignments of national finance to Sang-uiwon. The materials for the Royal informal dress were offered by usual tributes. The kinds of usual tributes were the tribute for the Royal families' birthday, holidays such as New Year's Day, the fifth day of the fifth lunar month, the harvest festival[Chuseok], and the winter solstice, the tributes for spring and fall, every first day and fifteenth day of the month, an annual tribute, an annual present, and an annual laudatory goods which were the King's presents to His Majesty's lieges. With usual tributes from Sang-uiwon, the Royal informal dress was made by the dressmakers and embroiderers who were Court ladies. The Royal informal dress for the King and the Crown Prince was trousers[Ba JI], shirts[Sam A], jackets[Gua Du], men's gowns[Chul lick], and long vests[Due Grae]. The Royal informal dress for the Queen and the Crown Princess was loose drawers[Dan Ni Ui], long skirts[Chi Ma], shirts[Sam A] and jarkets[Go Ui]. When there were the king's proceeding outside the palace, royal parties, cases of tributes to Chinese, special tributes were offered according to the procedures, like as making letters about the affairs, consulting, and permission. The tributes were also offered by a royal ordinance. According to the kinds of Royal event, the officers of Sang-uiwon procured the Royal costume which were conformed to the Royal etiquette.

The purpose of this study was to classify male consumer groups according to the fashion lifestyle, to examine characteristics, needs and wants of each group, and to find out differences of cosmetics purchasing behavior among each group segment. After surveying 19-50 year old males by making a visit to college, company and home, 584 samples were analyzed by using SPSS(7.0) package program. Factor analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA, crosstabs and $X^2-test$ were used to analyse collected data. The results of this study were as follows; 1. Twenty-two questionnaires using AIO fashion lifestyle variables produced seven factors; oriented fashion, flaunting brand preference, active preference, information intention, strong personality, reasonable economy and others directivity. Three groups based on oriented seven factors: personality, fashion and economy. 2. The Personality group had strong personal characters in their fashion. Men in this group prefer casual style and were represented by singles and professionals in their 30's. The fashion group pursued fashion trends, formal wears, and high-priced fashions. They were represented by singles with high-income managerial positions in their 19-29 age group. The economy group represented the largest sample in this study(54.5%). Men in this group tended to purchase fashion goods during of good fabrics at discount stores. This group represented married man with average incomes in their 40's. 3. Each of these three groups showed significant differences in cosmetics purchasing behavior. The personality group mainly purchased cosmetics on-line market because of price. The Internet tended to be their primary source of informations. They spent under 10,000won and pursued a simple and clear image. The fashion group purchased cosmetics at department stores to benefit from the knowledge of sales personal and their source of informations in the mass media. They spent over 70,000won monthly and pursued also a simple and clear image. The economy group purchased cosmetics at discount stores because of their wide assortment of products. They spent under 30,000won monthly and pursued a simple and clear image. Each of these groups currently consume different products and have a different concept of future cosmetic products.

This study shows that clothes are made just the same as the real thing in the virtual space through 3D digital technology. This study is significant to expand the area of fashion design in the virtual space. This study analyzes the practical use of the third dimension computer graphics in the aspect of fashion, and it is proposed the 3D fashion design simulation in the virtual space used on 3D studio max, poser, photoshop program according to fashion design process. The main design concept is "temporary bridge" from rainbow. "Temporary bridge" is a rainbow bridge which connects nature, man and technology, and also the past, present, and future. This study is supposed six fashion design in accordance with three sub-theme under main concept by changing rotor and texture used on 3D simulation. The conclusion are as follows : First fashion design process, which consists of design conceptualization, design definition, and computer design process, composed of body modeling, clothing modeling, texture mapping, rendering by lighting and camera establishing are compared. Second, fashion design process is applied to digital technology. Third, the method of body modeling is both that of direct modeling in 3D Studio Max and that of importing DXF file from poser. And the method of direct clothing modeling in 3D Studio Max are two methods, polygon modeling and nurbs modeling. Polygon modeling is more satisfied than nurbs modeling in the aspect of expression to clothing and round face. Forth, this study applies textures and colors transformed by photoshop on manufactured 3D Clothes. According to this result, fashion designers are able to confirm a customer or client in their design minds viewing 3D simulation by various textures. colors and angles. It is able to advance digital fashion show in the future.

It seems that Balhae(渤海) had built up its national power through the international relationship from the early years of an establishment of a dynasty. And the envoys that were sent with the official duties dressed up the official uniform for a diplomatic courtesy. Accordingly, this study will be considered about the official uniform in the early years of the Balhae era. The system of the official uniform of Balhae was classified into two form as the starting from $739\sim742$ A.D. The official uniform of the early years of the Balhae($698\sim739$ A.D.) was based on the costume of the three Kingdoms[三國時代], that is, Yu, Go(待), Jo-u-gwan(鳥羽冠). These results were available owing to the reasons that the Balhaehad succeeded the culture of Go-gu-ryo(高句麗), which was the basis for the development of Parhae's own culture, and the most of the governing group and the ruling class in Balhaewere the drifting people from Go-gu-ryo. After that, which the 3th King Mun(文王), acrepted the Tang's culture positively, assumed the reins of government ascended the throne and the brisk exchange with Tang(唐) by the envoys and Suk-wui(宿衛) were dispatched to Tang, the official uniform of the Balhaewas transformed into the system of Tang. This system was similar to that of Tang in point of using a four colors and the items as Danryeong(團領), Bokdu.

Despite the recovery of consumer expenditure and retailing in the Korean economy after 2001, the domestic apparel industry has been aggravated by negative growth in both productivity and production. The purpose of the stud? is to diagnose the develop competitive of the Korean apparel industry and derive implications for this after estimating the efficiency of the Korean apparel companies with Data Envelopment Analysis. Data Envelopment Analysis(DEA) is a methodology based in non-parametric analysis and linear programming. It was developed for measuring the relative efficiency of a set of firms that use inputs to produce outputs. Data used fer input and output variables in the analysis are drawn from financial statement recorded by the Korean Financial Supervisory Service. The initial input data comprise the number fo the employees, fixed assets, general management and selling expenses, and cost of sales. The initial outputs are the operating profit and the gross margin. To summary the results, the efficiencies of the Korean apparel companies has increased yearly in spite of being overabundance of investment in Labour and Capital. According to correlation between input and output variables, the Korean apparel industry has been revamping gradually from labor intensive industries to the capital. The companies need to reduce costs in the results from the number of employees, fixed asset and cost of sales to transform into an efficiently enterprise. The companies owning or obtaining a brand had bitter establish an outsourcing strategic in production, while OEM corporations are called far setting up a manufactory in domestic or abroad. Although the paper is derived some implications with production efficiencies, the relation between apparel companies and brand power, consumption level of consumer, and social trend is remained on a limitation to the study. The next research necessitates a topic with Fashion industry or examining the correlation between brand value, social propensity and profit margin.

In this study, the concept of play as an entertainment is redefined and applicable method of fashion design as a play are suggested by analyzing the feature of doll's costume design based on the play pattern. In literary study, the role of playing doll Is described and has been examined by the analysis of scholars' opinions. In positive study, the pattern and costume design of sample costume dolls are analyzed using 624 samples of the representative images collected from the literatures and real figures, and they are classified as collection dolls or fashion dolls in order to analyze the feature of fashion design in playing dolls. As a result of the analysis of doll's costumes based on its use, the costumers are divided into a real world costume which is similar to what human wear in daily life and a virtual costume which is used in the movie or play and the costumes only worn by the dolls. The examination of the type of costume worn by dolls, dress is principally dominant costume in collection doll, whereas in fashion doll, dress is still mainly worn but shirt blouse & pants, shirt blouse k skirt, jacket, coat, bathing suit. etc. are shown dispersedly as well. In the costume silhouette of dolls, collection doll uses mostly A line silhouette meanwhile fit and flare is mostly used in the fashion doll but other silhouettes are also relatively shown a lot. In the means of the color of the costume worn by dolls, collection doll is more similar to those in actual fashion design. On the contrary, the color of the costume that fashion doll is put on is more free and more various because the trendy rotors such as green, yellow, purple, etc are used.

This study reports the dress style of Daesarye ceremony participants in the Yeong-Jo Era. The King Yeong-jo attending the archery practice ceremony wears Ikseonkwan(翼善冠), Golryongpo(袞龍袍), Okdae(玉帶), and Heukpihwa(黑皮靴) while royal family members and officers in the ceremony wear Heukdalryeong(黑團領). Each officer in Sangbok(常服) who shoots arrows wears a ring and a wristlet with an archery case on his waist. King's bodyguards wear Yungbok(戎服) or Sangbok(常服). Especially, Muyaebyeolgam(武藝別監) wears Hong-geon(紅巾) and a green Jikryeong(直領). Yujiang-gun(儀位軍) wear Pirip(皮笠) and Hongjuryi(紅紬衣) while Hyeopryeongun(狹輦軍) and Hyeopryeogun(狹輦軍) wear Hong-geon(紅巾), Hongyui((紅衣), Cheonghaengjeon(靑行纏), Hakchang(鶴雲), Hongmokdae(紅木帶), and Unhye(雲鞋). Gyeonmabae(牽馬陪) wear Hwangchorip(黃草笠) and Hwangyui(黃衣). Seupjeongun(拾箭軍) and Hwaekja(獲子) wear Jageon(紫巾), Jayui(紫衣), and Unhye(雲鞋). Jeonak(典樂) wears Mora- bokdu and Noksayui(綠抄衣), while Ak-kong(樂工) wear Hwahwabokdu, Hongjuyui(紅紬衣), Ojeongdae, and Heukpihwa(黑皮靴). Lastly, Hyeopryulrang(協律郎) wears Heukdalryeong(黑團領).

By the turn of the century, our society has been gradually more interested in environmental problems than any other time. Ecological change spurred by industrial pollution is occurring beyond the borders of nations, and has emerged as a global issue. Such change is resulting in exhaustion of natural resources and energy, and serious climatic change. In this study, main focus regarding the process of the fashion product design system was placed on the sustainable fashion design of organic cotton as a positive and alternative suggestion. It is expected that the results of this study contribute to the fashion design planning not only for future generation but also for the present time. This study researched on brands that produced their fashion products using organic cotton. The following cases proved to possess sustainability in their product system. The results of this study can be summarized as follows: Firstly, sustainable design in organic cotton products has been a progressive ere-design in 2000s. It is mainly focus concerned with recycling and re-use of materials to protect environment. It is not chemical dependant and takes a particular care in eliminating waste water and energy in the dyeing process. It is an environmentally sustainable design better than all the other design processes. Secondly, it is a design that cares for the common good of society and the global system of fair trading. The fair trading of organic cotton products induced a change in the structure of production system, while defending human rights. It also gave benefits by promoting development in local society and progress in traditional skills. Not to mention that it contributed to building up the concept of transparency in the global economic system. Lastly, the brands emphasize their social responsibility and management ethics to observe environmental policy which is established to protect our nature and people. Their public information reminds customers of the importance of protecting the environment from diverse pollution. Moreover, they hold social events to promote public awareness for environmental Issues. This study dealt only with the organic cotton, a small subset of the subject of sustainable design. It can be extended and applied to various other sustainable fashion design as a solution for global environmental issues.

School uniforms are mass produced by large companies and prominent fashion designers. However many high school students modify their uniform or use fashion accessaries to pursue their individualities and their unique style. The objectives of this research were to identify uniform modification and fashion accessory wearing according to the attitudes toward uniform of high school students. The results were as follows; 1. Factors of the attitudes toward school uniform were style and brand, fashion, role intimation, individuality, and neatness. High school students were classified as the uniform indifference group, the pro-uniform group, and the centrist-uniform group according to their attitudes toward uniform. 2. Many students in academic or boys' high schools were classified into the centrist-uniform stoup, and many in art & physical educational or coeducational high schools were classified into the pro-uniform group. The pro-uniform group modified uniform more and stated that the regulation on the fashion accessory wearing was very strict. The uniform indifference group modified uniform less than other groups and complained less about regulation of fashion accessary wearing. 3. Students in art & physical educational high schools showed more positive tendency toward uniform attitudes, uniform modification, and fashion accessary regulation compliances.

This study's purpose is how express gender image according to sex in editorial fashion photography. This study's objectives are the women's magazine Vogue, Harper's Bazaar and man's magazine GQ, Esquire published 2000-2005 within the country. The photography was classified with established a standard based on the precede studies. The photo is classified Gender image according to dress and its ornaments, model character and atmosphere by Sex Expression of femininity woman has exposure of body parts and emphasizing thin eyebrows and red lips, soft and mild image, modest and static pose. Man expressed femininity used ladylike color and pattern, erotic exposure of body and long hair style. Commonly emphasizing red lips, natural background of flower plant, S-line. For expression of masculinity man and woman are used masculinity item, short hair-style and thick eyebrows. And also emphasize square like chin and shoulder. Specially, woman used direct silhouette to conceal soft body curved line. The expressions of androgynous woman and man are colorful dress and make-up. Woman emphasized male face to show and man expressed soft image through hull of abundant material of fur. All two sex selected method that conceal body curved line and face to express sexless. Hiding characteristics of body and face make indistinct of sex. The gender is affected by atmosphere such as model and illumination background as much as clothes because of the editorial fashion photography.

Exaggerated expressions of contemporary fashion have exceeded historical precedents in volume. The purpose of this study is to understand the aesthetic characteristics of expanded form In contemporary fashion. To take dresses beyond their flat shapes into three-dimensional forms, it was investigated into volume of dresses by using the void and the mass. The void Is rarefied space and the mass is densified space. The void of dresses could be constructed from the boning such as panier and stiff textiles as organza lining. The mass could be constructed from padding. Fold, pleats, twist, and the layering of fabrics show features of both the void and the mass. Contemporary fashion designers relied on the void rather that the mass to make the enormous volume because of the weight of the mass. X-silhouette and the expansion of skirt and sleeve were dominant as the result of accentuating the body with a waistline. However, many of expanded dresses were so voluminous that they obscured the body's outlines. Some forms were strange and shocking. Many designers explored the void and there were a multitude of methods to construct the void: compartments of air, architectural techniques, technical textiles, fold such at origami. The aesthetic consciousness of expanded dresses could be classified into 7 categories, the giant, the dynamic, the deconstructive, the historical, the comedic, the rhythmical, and the technical character.

The purpose of this study was to identify the characteristics of ambivalent consumption appeared in the purchase behavior of apparel products by the 4Ps element of marketing mix and to clarify the relation between consumption value and clothing involvement that were the antecedent variable. Among the 4Ps element of marketing mix, brand was selected in the exterior criteria of products, and fashionability was selected in the internal criteria of products. Meanwhile, it was considered that there were no objects of conflicted or ambivalent criteria in the element of promotion. Finally, brand, fashionability, price, place, etc. were selected as the elements of marketing. A self-administered questionnaire was distributed to 550 subjects from Jun, 8th, 2006 to Jun, 22nd, 2006; 507 were used for the data analysis. The results from data analysis were following: firstly, it was identified that ambivalent consumption showed up, as the result from measuring the individual conflicting consumption by elements. Brand was the highest in the frequency of ambivalent consumption among the elements of marketing mix, and price, place, and fashionability were followed. Secondly, by product characteristics, the frequency of ambivalent consumption of casual shirt, group II, was lower than that of mountain climbing jacket, group III, in the brand element and the price element. Thirdly, as the results from conducting factorial analysis to consumption value, it had 5 dimensions, which were practical value, distinguishable/aesthetic value, conspicuous value, social/confirmative value, and enjoyable value. Also clothing involvement was classified into 4 dimensions of emotion, fashionability, symbolic and brand involvement in the result from conducting the factorial analysis to clothing involvement. Fourthly, the mean of ambivalent consuming group by each element was highest among that of other consuming groups in all the dimensions. Fifthly, ambivalent consuming group had the highest mean among other consuming groups in all the dimension of clothing involvement, such as emotion, fashionability, and symbolic by each element of marketing mix, and it means that overall, ambivalent consuming group is highly involved in all the dimension of clothing involvement.

The purpose of this study Is to reinterpret sexuality represented in modern fashion with the conception of plural sexuality from post-structuralism in socio-semiotic approach. It consists of two parts.: The first part provides the theoretical background and the methodological framework of this study. The second part ultimately accomplishes this study by empirical research, which is to infer plural sexuality articulated with fashion images in men's and women's popular fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 and sexual ideology signified in modern fashion. In this part the theoretical background was focused on the conception of sexuality on the basis of Foucault's idea, and then the framework for this study was made up from socio-semiotic perspective. The conception of sexuality in Foucauldian post-structural idea maintains the view of plural sexuality, which floats by power relationship between dominant and oppositional discourses in a specific historical context. Socio-semiotics suggests a contextual methodology to analyze the phenomena of material culture by articulating the range of material objects with that of ideology. The socio-semiotic model applied to sexuality represented in fashion is the framework of classifying into the several versions of fashion images from fashion as a material object and then inferring sexual ideology codified in them. In addition, three stages of producer/object/user in socio-semiotics were revised into 'dominant sexuality' with mainstream fashion out of dominant discourses,'oppositional sexuality' to create anti-fashion from oppositional discourses of subculture, and 'alternative sexuality' to be appropriated to dominant discourses by the mix of mainstream fashion and anti-fashion.