권호 표지

Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (복식)

The Korean Society of Costume

  • Bimonthly
  • /
  • 1229-6880(pISSN)
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  • 2287-7827(eISSN)

Domain

  • Culture/Arts/Sports ＞ Clothing Design
  • Human Ecology ＞ Clothing

Aim & Scope

한국복식학회 학술지 ‘服飾’은 복식전공분야의 학문적 교류를 통한 복식학 분야의 발전에 이바지함을 그 목적으로 하고 있습니다. 즉 각 전공분야의 정보를 신속하게 공유하여 복식 산업발전에 기여하며 패션산업 현장에서의 디자인을 비롯한 여러 분야의 연구에 실질적인 도움을 주고자 합니다. ‘服飾’ 학술지에는 복식사, 복식미학 및 패션디자인, 패션마케팅, 및 심리, 의복구성 및 텍스타일, 복식일반을 비롯한 복식 전반에 걸친 학자들의 연구 성과를 싣고 있습니다. ‘服飾’은 2003년부터 한국연구재단 등재학술지로 지정되었으며, 지금까지 연 10회 발행되던 학술지를 게재논문의 질적 향상을 위하여 2020년부터는 연 6회 발행하고 있습니다. 또한 논문 Full-Text등을 전산화하여 인터넷에서도 검색이 가능한 정보화사업을 하고 있습니다. The purpose of the Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (JKSC), the academic journal of the Korean Society of Costume (KSC), is to contribute to the development and diversity of the study of costume by becoming a means to scholarly exchange. In other words, the goal is to contribute to the development of the fashion industry and to give practical assistance to various design-related research by prompt exchange of information from the various fields of costume studies. JKSC covers a broad spectrum of research outputs from the field of costume studies, such as the history of costume, dress aesthetics, fashion design, fashion marketing, psychology, clothing construction, and textiles. First published in 1977, JKSC has been listed on the Korean Citation Index (KCI) by the National Research Foundation of Korea (NRF) since 2003. Once published as frequently as 10 times per year, the JKSC has, since 2020, been published six times per year in order to better promote the qualitative improvement of its academic papers. KSC is now in the process of informatizing a system to provide a range of online services, while its full-text electronic resources are already available online.

http://onkjournal.co.kr/sobis/ksc.jsp KSCI KCI

Volume 56 Issue 2 Serial No. 101

  1. Song, Su-Won;Kim, Min-Ja 1
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    The purpose of this study is to analyze the meanings of national images represented in Vivienne Westwood' collections through investigating her works in an aspect of national identity. The results were as follows: British fashion is generally known for having two national identities, Monarchy and Anarchy. Monarchy is the traditional British look and Anarchy is the free-spirited look which is related with the postwar phenomenon of rebellious youth culture. As a punk, Westwood participated in creating Anarchic identity of British fashion. But from the 80s, Westwood's attitude toward the national images has been changed. As a high fashion designer who became to represent British fashion in global market, Westwood started to research British dress tradition, especially through comparing with French fashion. She was particularly fascinated with the traditional fabrics like tartans, tweeds and innovative tailoring skills, which were related with the heritage of Englishness in dress. But she didn't follow the conventional ways and tried to reinvent the historical tradition in modern ways. By combining Monarchic tradition with tempting female sexuality, Westwood transgressed the existing ordinary Britishness of British fashion which was composed of aristocratic and royal identities, and created some innovative British fashion images. With these works, Westwood contributed to consolidate Englishness in dress on the one hand, but on the other hand, served to reconfigure Britishness of British fashion. Consequently, Westwood showed that what is believed as the essential national fashion identity can be challenged and reconfigured in modern fashion field.
  2. Cho Hyo-Sook 17
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    This study is tried to identify the changes in modern Hanbok for the past five decades through the literatures and actual materials such as the First Ladies' costume. In Hanbok fashion, there is a trend that influenced by politics, economy and culture just like in western fashion. After liberation from the Japanese colonialism, the most important factors in Hanbok fashion were economic factors caused by the development of textile industry and the dressing attitude of the First Ladies at that time. In 1950s, a modified Hanbok that is easy to wear was popular. It was partly because of the west oriented atmosphere after the Korean War and mainly due to the practical dressing attitude of First Lady, Francesca. In 1960s and 70s, former First Lady Yuk Young Soo who loved and had good taste for Hanbok led the fashion. At that time, high ranking female social leaders as well as general public usually wore Hanbok on formal occasions. Therefore, textile industry for Hanbok developed a lot and tailored shops that specialize Hanbok emerged. In 1980s, as the economy got better, Hanbok was upgraded and it became more luxurious. Traditional Hanbok was revived through a historical investigation. Additionally, the former First Lady Lee Soon Ja helped fostering a luxurious mood as she wore a Hanbok as a formal dress. After 1988 Olympic Games were successfully held, the importance of the traditional culture was emphasized in 1990s and Hanbok followed retro trend rigorously through the academic approaches including a dressing history. Hand painted and naturally dyed Hanboks were strong in this period. Former First Lady Kim Ok Sook's sophisticated Hanbok attire partially had effect on this mood. However, From the late 1990s Hanbok became less popular. It was partly because the former First Lady Son Myoung Sun and Lee Hee Ho preferred western style dresses and did not play a role as Hanbok fashion leaders.
  3. Kim, Chan-Ju;Ro, Mi-Kyung 32
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    Denim has been one of the most favored clothing item among young people regardless of regional difference. This study compared the styling of women's denim fashion in two Asian metro-cities, Seoul and Beijing, in order to understand how differ the fashion taste of both cities. Data was collected by taking photos of young women who wear denim clothing at the main streets of downtowns or famous shopping areas of both cities from the July of 2004 till the April of 2005. A total of 524 photos(Seoul 242, and Beijing 282) were put into content analysis. Results showed that there were several similarities and differences in denim styling between two cities in terms of the most widely worn denim items and the coordinate items, and the favored colors, silhouette, details of denim pants and the coordinate items. In Seoul, women favored denim look with little detail, fitted silhouette, and in more formal image. A few denim styles prevailed in each season which reflect current denim fashion trends. Meanwhile a wide variety of denim styles were found at Beijing without dominant denim trends, which means Beijing women put more emphasis on personal expression of their fashion taste instead of just following fashion trends.
  4. Kim, Yong-Sook;Liu, Guo-Lian;Wang, Hai-Yan 45
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    The purposes of this study were to identify clothing attitudes and purchasing motives according to consumption orientation of Chinese middle aged women. The results of this study were as follows: 1. Factors of shopping orientation were rich & fashion, economy & profit, traditional virtue & leisure utilizing, and frugality & pragmatism. Chinese middle aged women were classified into practicality pursuit group, material & fashion pursuit group, conservative leisure utilizing group, and negative stagnating group. 2. Factors of clothing attitudes were fashion, self-confidence & symbol, politeness, comfort, and luxury. Practicality pursuit group considered politeness of clothing more and did not purchase impulsively, but material & fashion pursuit considered many factors of clothing attitudes most. Conservative leisure utilizing group considered economy most, but negative stagnate group considered less. 3. Factors of clothing purchasing motives were fashion & conformity, fitness, impulse, and practical needs. Practicality pursuit group purchased clothing because of practical needs, but material & fashion pursuit group purchased of fashion & conformity, fitness, impulse, and practical needs.
  5. Lee Jee-Hyun;Kim Young-In 56
    PDF KSCI
    The purpose of this study was to analyze the characteristics of Korean costume colors according to the diachronic stages of culture(Chosun dynasty, Modern times, Present age) and to interpretate the meanings of costume colors as a cultural code. To examine the color characteristics according to the cultural change, the quantitative analysis and the qualitative analysis were used. For the quantitative analysis 1535 color samples were collected and for the qualitative analysis on the sensitive aspect of Korean costume color, 340 color names were collected. The results of this study as follows; 1.'Red' and 'Blue' were preferred throughout the periods. In Chosun dynasty, the higher saturation of 'Red' and 'Blue', its symbolic meanings were more emphasized. 2. In the Modern times, 'Pink' was more distinctive than 'Red'. 'Pink' meant that the ecdysis of the traditional view of color. 3.'Yellow' of the low Saturation was used frequently in Chosun dynasty but in the Modern times, the use of 'Yellow' increased and the high saturation were used. In the Present age, the frequency of 'Yellow' was reduced relating to the increasing use of 'Brown'. 4.'Neutral Color' has changed according to the diachronic stages of the culture. 'Black' was increased and had a big meaning in the cultural aspect of the Modern times. In the Present age, 'Gray' and 'grayish colors' were increased related to Technology, Metals and High rise buildings.
  6. Yang Chieu-Kyung;Ha Kyung-Yun 70
    PDF KSCI
    The purpose of this study was to analyze the trends and features of male fashion and hair style image and thereby, determine the relationship between fashion and hair styles, and thus, provide for some basic data for future studies about male hair styles as well as for new male hair style trends. For this purpose, relevant literature was extensively reviewed including some visual materials. The major references for this study were domestic and foreign books, journals and preceding studies about fashion and hair. The visual materials referred to for this study were domestic magazines specialized in fashion and hair, visual data supplied by hair product brands, Korea Beauty Parlor Journal, Beauty and Cosmetic Newspaper, Beauty Today, and such fashion special websites as $S{\cdot}F{\cdot}I,\;C{\cdot}F{\cdot}T$, firstview.com, fashionwide.com, etc. Based on the results from a questionnaire survey of master or Ph degree holders of apparel science, reputed designer were sampled and then, 80 works were finally sampled from their collections published between January, 2002 and April, 2005. As a result of analyzing the images shown in modern male apparel and hair style fashions by classifying them into natural, restored, folklore and eclectic ones, it was confirmed that both male apparels and hair styles have been reinterpreted in modern terms depending on social and cultural settings to be expressed as new styles, and in particular, that male hair styles have evolved diversely into new styles depending on fashion tendencies, while having been versatile in some relationships with their fashion tendencies.
  7. Chung Ihn-Hee;Kim Soon-Chul;Hwang In-Do;Jung Ji-Wook;Choo Ho-Jung 83
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    As online fashion businesses achieve rapid growth in the last few years, they gather various kinds of customer information through customer registration procedures and expect to utilize this information for CRM programs. The purpose of this study were to understand the current practices of customer information management of online fashion companies and to discuss how to improve it for the benefit of both customers and fashion businesses. This study included three steps of empirical data collection process: First, online fashion companies were visited and content analyzed at three time periods-2002, 2003, and 2004. Second, a questionnaire was developed and surveyed with 488 customers. And third, interviews with two groups were conducted, one with customers who experienced customer registration with online fashion companies and the other with experts of web developing. Through customer registration procedures, personal and contact information such as name, citizen registration number(social security number), home address, home telephone number, and cellular phone number were most frequently required. Customers were asked to provide more specific information regarding their privacy, online behavior, and taste recently. The variety of information category in 2004 observation was larger than 2002, but the amount of required information from each company got smaller. Customers tended to provide some false infor- mation, and the most frequently cited reason for that was 'too much hassle' and 'no practical benefit from information provision'. Customers were concerned with the exposure of personal information such as citizen registration number. The ideal number of pieces of information required was identified as 3 to 5 including name, phone number, and address. The paper was concluded with the discussion of customer information management from CRM perspective, CRM program, information analysis methods, and security.
  8. Sung Ok-Jin;Ha Hee-Jung 101
    PDF KSCI
    The purpose of this research is to define body shapes of Plus-sized women at ages between 21 and 69 whose satisfied the Plus-sized judgment criteria took part in this study. This research also classifies different body types, and provides basic data for designing prototypes according to each body type. Based on factor analysis of the measured data, nine key factors are grouped. And four different body types are classified based on the cluster analysis using factor marks. Type 1 refers to those who are tall and characterized by 'Y' body shape when looked from the front. Looking from the side, this type is comparatively balanced obese type which has flat breast and abdomen, and which has a jutting back and buttocks. Type 2 refers to those who are the shortest of all the obese with 'X' front. This type is Sway-back shape which has jutting back and abdomen but flat buttocks when looked from the side. Type 3 is characterized by 'H' body shape when looked from the front. This type is Pway-back shape which has flat back, abdomen and buttocks when looked from the side. The prominent breast part of this type is the most outstanding figure. Type 4 is characterized by 'X' when looked from the front. This type has a jutting waist and prominent buttocks when looked from the side.
  9. Kim, Mun-Young;Cho, Woo-Hyun 112
    PDF KSCI
    Globally, several ethnic groups have expressed their spirit cultures based on their ethnic identity in diverse ways. Clothing has been one of the convenient objects to express ethnic identities. Therefore, patterns and colors used in traditional costumes have worked as a means to help understanding spirit cultures of ethnic groups. Since colors help strengthening solidarity of social members based on ethnic preference and community consensus, colors have performed a crucial role as a strategic tool in the fashion business closely related to consumers' individual characteristics. In survey results, color preferences of Korean and Italian specialists showed significant differences in signboard colors and disliked colors. Many Korean fashion specialists selected pink as a preferred color, black as a clothing color, red and white as a color with high visibility, and orange as a disliked color. In case of Italy, many specialists selected red and black as highly visible colors for a signboard, and green as a disliked color. In results comparing color preference for colors between Korean and Italian fashion design specialists, there were differences in color sensibility. Since this research used data from survey conducted using a very limited and much manipulated stimuli among a wide range of color schema and patterns, the study result may not be fully generalized. In future studies, more research using diversely segmented stimuli would be needed.
  10. Choi Kyu-Soon;Bao Ming-Xin 125
    PDF KSCI
    The term Moja(毛子) is the name of Jilson(質孫), the traditional costume of Mongolian own meaning one colour. Mo generally means woolen or worsted fabric, so most scholars also regarded Moja as the same. This paper studied the kind of fabric of Moja by using the way of studying the cultural exchange between ancient Korea and China. This study showed that Moja is ramie instead of woolen or worsted fabric. It also showed that its name was born the long history of the cultural exchanging process between China and Korea. Moja was written as Musi(木絲) or Mosi(沒絲) at China in early period, and changed to Mosi(毛施) in ancient Korean. It was changed to Chinese Maozi in later period.
  11. Kim So-Young;Yang Hee-Young 134
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    Modern society is a multi-cultural consumer society, and there are multiple trends to cater to the tastes of diverse consumers with different sociocultural background. To grasp fashion trends in fast-changing society, how consumer life is changing and what sort of trend is prevailing should be understood above all. A major fashion trend keeps on changing in every season, and that is an extensive and compound measure of what affects the lives and values of cultural receivers who take the lead in it. The purpose of this study was to delve into what sorts of trends were presented in the 21st century's different cultures, how those cultures were reflected in fashion trends, and how design elements predicted by fashion trends could serve as the sources of design that could create a new fashion. The findings of the study were as follows: First of all, the theories of popular culture and trends were reviewed to describe how general receivers found meaning and delight in the products of cultural industry in their own way and how the products were converted into diverse cultural media. Secondly, consumer styles were discussed by classifying consumers into six groups, twixter, duppie, Ubi-Nomad, NONOS, LOHAS and chav, who were generated by changing cultural codes. Thirdly, sociocultural trends and consumer changes brought a lot of diverse changes to fashion trends. The visual materials about the 2005 S/S, F/W Collection were examined to track how changing trends affected fashion style.
  12. Park Young-Hee 147
    PDF KSCI
    In this study 1, the dyeability and sun protection characteristic of the fabrics dyed with pine needles extract was investigated. In the test of color difference, the surface color of all the dyed fabric of both cotton and silk came to light as greenish yellow. In the test of dyeing colorfastness, the colorfastness to sunlight of dyed cotton fabric was below 2nd grade and the one of dyed silk fabric was below 3rd grade. The colorfastness to laundry for the degree of discoloration showed a difference as to mordants, but the colorfastness to laundry for the degree of contamination was excellent as all the dyed fabrics were 4th-5th grade. The colorfastness to perspiration was excellent as the degree of discoloration was more than 3rd grade and the degree of contamination was more than 4th-5th grade. The colorfastness to rubbing showed the excellent result as all the dyed fabrics were 4th-5th grade. In the test of sun protection factor(SPF), the cotton and silk fabrics dyed with $FeSO_4{\cdot}7H_{2}O$ mordant showed very high sun protection characteristic as the SPF was each 36.1 and 42.5. In the test of sun protection rate for UV-A and UV-B, the cotton and silk fabrics dyed with $FeSO_4{\cdot}7H_{2}O$ mordant showed the very high sun protection rate of more than $90\%$.