• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.125-131
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• 2018

Ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) has been widely used in skin care formulations. Due to its remarkable effects on anti-oxidation, collagen biosynthesis and whitening, ascorbic acid is considered as an effectible anti-aging active ingredient. But, the instability problems of ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulation such as oxidation, browning and changes in smell is the difficult issue to be overcome for the application of high concentration of ascorbic acid. We tried to stabilize the ascorbic acid in non-aqueous liquid formulation that contains polyol solvent at first. The non-aqueous system was effectible to reduce oxidation. But, ascorbic acid was crystallized in the non-aqueous formulation at the low temperature below $5^{\circ}C$. We tried to develop way to stabilize the ascorbic acid in aqueous solutions to solve the crystallizing problem. In this study, we search the optimal ratio of antioxidant combination, such as zinc sulfate, glutathione and curcuma longa (turmeric) root extract. Formulations were stored at - $16^{\circ}C$, $5^{\circ}C$, $25^{\circ}C$, $40^{\circ}C$, $50^{\circ}C$ and cycle($5-40^{\circ}C$) (in incubator) for a period of eight weeks to investigate their stability. In the stability analysis, the test parameters consisted of color, scent, phase separation and sedimentation. Ascorbic acid stability was checked by HPLC analysis.

• Food Science and Preservation
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.456-460
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• 2008

Santalum album has been used as a folk medicine for treatment of skin diseases, inflammation, gonorrhea, gleet, and cystitis in India and other Asian countries. In a search for possible bioactive agents from natural sources, we found that the various solvent extracts of S. album showed significant antioxidative effect in 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity test and moderate other biological functions submitted to the several bioassay systems for whitening and cytotoxicity evaluations. Among the tested extracts displayed DPPH radical scavenging activity, and the 70% acetone extract showed the most potent activity with an $IC_{50}$ value of $18.6\;{\mu}g/ml$, more potent than a positive control, L-ascorbic acid ($IC_{50}$, $28.7\;{\mu}g/mL$). Also, anti-lipid peroxidation, tyrosinase inhibitory, and cytotoxic effects were determined in each experiment. Total phenolic content of 70% acetone extract was found to be 117.1 mg equivalent of gallic acid per g of extract. Previous phytochemical investigation reveals the presence of phenolic compounds. The results indicate that S. album possess potential antioxidant activity and phenolic constituents are responsible for this capacity.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.4
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• pp.357-364
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• 2017

The aim of this study is to investigate the effect of Hovenia dulcis (oriental raisin tree) extract on ganodermanondiol (GN) contents in Ganoderma lucidum (G. lucidum) mycelia. GN has a triterpenoid structure and is one of the major active components of G. lucidum. Furthermore, we previously proved its inhibitory effects on tyrosinase activity and melanin biosynthesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. In this study, we observed significantly increased GN contents in G. lucidum mycelial extracts supplemented with 15% (v/v) oriental raisin tree extract (ORTE) by HPLC analysis. In addition, melanogenesis was significantly inhibited by G. lucidum extract supplemented with 15% ORTE when compared to G. lucidum extract without ORTE supplementation. Furthermore, mycelial growth of G. lucidum was increased by ORTE supplementation in both solid and liquid cultivation. These results suggest that the oriental raisin tree is useful as natural ingredient for increasing GN biosynthesis as well as whitening effect of G. lucidum.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.698-704
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• 2020

Although various biological extracts derived from the resources from Jeju are currently being developed for cosmetic materials, few studies using Brown algae from Jeju have been conducted. This study identified materials with high antioxidant levels and examined their whitening effects to assess their feasibility as potential cosmetic resources. Brown algae from Jeju (Undaria pinnatifida (Harvey) Suringar, Laminaria japonica, Ecklonia cava, Hizikia fusiforme (Harvey) Okamura (HF), and Sargassum fulvellum (Turner) C. Agardh (SF) were processed using a supercritical fluid system at 50℃ and 400 bar, and their total phenol content, antioxidant activity, tyrosinase inhibition, and primary skin irritation were measured. Of all the samples, only SF using the supercritical fluid system (SFS) displayed concentration-dependent behavior for the total phenol content (p<0.05). Among the samples, the antioxidant activity of SFS was significantly higher (p<0.05) and the one increased at higher concentrations (p<0.05). On the other hand, tyrosinase was inhibited to a greater extent with HF than the others. The primary skin irritation tests showed that none of the samples were skin irritants. This study confirmed the feasibility of using Phaeophyceae from Jeju as potential cosmetic materials, where the samples can be selected and utilized based on the required physicochemical properties.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.46 no.1
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• pp.1-9
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• 2020

In this experiment, the Grateloupia elliptica (G. elliptica) was fermented using the fungus Aureobasidium pullulans (A. pullulans) and its extract was obtained from hot water and 70% ethanol solution. The extract was studied for their biological activities such as antioxidant effect, Collagenase and tyrosinase inhibition in comparison to the nonfermented exatract in same solvents. Antioxidative activity test using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) showed that ethanol extract had higher antioxidant activity than water extract. Among all of the samples, the antioxidant activity of G. elliptica fermented ethanol extracts (GEFEE) was highest. Tyrosinase inhibitory activity of GEFEE was highest with 9.8% at the 1,000 ㎍/mL concentration. No inhibition of collagenase from G. elliptica water extract (GEWE) and G. elliptica fermented water extract (GEFWE) was observed, but G. elliptica ethanol extracts (GEEE) and GEFEE showed increased collagenase inhibition activity with increasing concentrations of them. Collagenase inhibitory activity of GEFEE was highest with 50.3% at the 1,000 ㎍/mL concentration. MTS cell proliferation assay was conducted with the GEWE, GEEE, GEFWE, GEFEE and cell viability was over 90% at the 10 ㎍/mL ~ 1000 ㎍/mL concentrations for all of the samples, which suggested that the extracts were noncytotoxic. In conclusion, fermented extracts of G. elliptica could be developed to bioactive functional material for cosmetics with antioxidant and wrinkle improvement effects.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.46 no.1
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• pp.11-22
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• 2020

In this study, we investigated anti-pigmentation effect of a hexapeptide. The peptide significantly reduced melanin contents and inhibited tyrosinase activity in a dose-dependent manner, in which tyrosinase is a key enzyme in melanogenesis. The peptide also significantly reduced the expression levels of tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TYRP1) and their upstream transcription factor, microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF). Furthermore, the peptide suppressed the phosphorylation level of cAMP-response element binding protein (CREB), a transcription factor of MITF, and increased the phosphorylation level of extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK), a kinase mediates MITF phosphorylation and proteasomal degradation. The peptide significantly inhibited the expression of Rab27A, Melanophilin, and MyosinVa, the components of motor complex involved in intracellular movement of melanosome. These results suggest that Hexapeptide could be used as an effective whitening agent that has inhibitory effect on melanin production and melanosome transport by regulating expression and degradation of MITF in melanocytes.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.29 no.10
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• pp.1136-1143
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• 2019

The purpose of this study was to investigate the biological activities of an aqueous extract of Angelica gigas (Ag) fermented by Saccharomyces cerevisiae (Sc). First, the soluble solids of the F/3 group, in which the Ag was fermented by Sc for 3 days, decreased from $1^{\circ}Bx$ to $0.9^{\circ}Bx$. On the other hand, the pH increased with the number of days of fermentation. The result of a TLC experiment confirmed that it gradually decomposed into a low-molecular weight sugar form upon fermentation. The total phenolic compounds and flavonoid contents were higher in the fermented group than in the non-fermented group. K and Ca contents were increased by fermentation in the following order: F/3, NF, and F/0 groups. Decursin and decursinol angelate contents were highest in the F/3 group. The DPPH (${\alpha}$, ${\alpha}{\prime}$-diphenyl-${\beta}$-picrylhydrazyl) radical scavenging activity of the NF, F/0, and F/3 groups were 41.89%, 39.51%, and 60.26%, respectively. The inhibition activities of tyrosinase and lipoxygenase were stronger in the F/3 group than in the NF group. This experiment showed that the fermentation of Ag Nakai can lead to an increase in its antioxidant ability, physiological activity, whitening and anti-inflammatory effects. Thus, this oriental herbal medicine can be developed into a functional material that can be utilized in the development of cosmetic products in future.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.496-501
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• 2021

In this study, the marine agar-degrading bacterium Pseudoalteromonas sp. JH-1 was isolated, and its growth and agarase properties were investigated. Seawater was collected from the offshore of the Yonggung Temple in Busan, and agar-degrading bacteria were isolated and cultured with marine agar medium. The bacterium Pseudoalteromonas sp. JH-1 was isolated through 16S rRNA gene sequencing. The extracellularly secreted enzyme was obtained from the culture broth of Pseudoalteromonas sp. JH-1 and was used to characterize its agarase. The extracellular agarase exhibited a maximum activity of 116.6 U/l at 50℃ and pH 6.0 of 20 mM Tris-HCl buffer. Relative activities were 31, 59, 94, 100, 45, and 31% at 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, and 70℃, respectively. Relative activities were 49, 85, 100, 86, 81, and 67% at pH 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9, respectively. Residual activity was more than 85% after exposure at 20, 30, and 40℃ for 2 hr, and more than 82% after exposure at 50℃ for 2 hr. Zymogram analysis confirmed that Pseudoalteromonas sp. JH-1 produced at least two agarases of 55 and 97 kDa. As the products of α-agarase and β-agarase have antioxidation, antitumor, skin-whitening, macrophage activation, and prebiotic effects, further studies are needed on the agarase of Pseudoalteromonas sp. JH-1.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.31 no.11
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• pp.1004-1009
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• 2021

Angelica gigas Nakai (AGN) has been used in Korean herbal medicine for various pharmacological activities, such as to create antioxidant and skin whitening effects. Decursin and decursinol angelate of AGN extracts can be used as potential active drugs and cosmetic ingredients. This study investigated the possibility of topical delivery of AGN extracts using a manufactured emulsion system. Lotion was formulated by using Tefose^® and paraffin for the oil phase, Kolliphor RH 40 for the surfactant and solubilizing agent-which showed high solubility in water (0.82 mg/ml)-and a water phase with a carbomer. In vitro skin permeation of decursin and decursinol angelate was determined using a Strat-M^® membrane in Franz diffusion cells. Lotion samples as the experimental group (248.08±19.72 ug/cm²) significantly increased the permeation of decursin and decursinol angelate for up to 24 hr compared to the control group (119.18±19.23 ug/cm²). The permeability was also characterized by the flux (penetration rates) and Kp (permeability coefficient) values. The experimental group (17.20±1.23 ug/h/cm² and 5.73±1.39 cm/h^*10^-3) had higher flux and Kp than the control group (8.22±1.24 ug/h/cm² and 2.74±0.51 cm/h^*10^-3). Lotion with decursin and decursinol angelate of AGN extracts could be used for the topical application of drug and cosmetic products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.1
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• pp.39-46
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• 2022

In this study, we tried to find out the value of using Vietnamese Ternstroemia kwangtungensis Merr. (TK) extracts as a functional material. As a result of measuring the level of Nrf2 expression of TK, 50% ethanol extract TK leaf showed the highest activity at a concentration of 200 ㎍/mL. In order to confirm the stability of the extract over time at room temperature, UPLC was performed, and stability was maintained because the patterns of the UV spectrum pattern were the same. In order to confirm the antioxidant efficacy of TK, the activity increased as the concentration increased as a result of measuring electron donating and ABTS⁺ radical scavenging ability. At 1,000 ㎍/mL, they showed effects of 94.6% and 90.8%, respectively. As a result of measuring the tyrosinase inhibitory activity showed an inhibitory ability of 24.4% at a concentration of 1,000 ㎍/mL. In addition, as a result of examining the elastase inhibitory activity of the extract was increased in a concentration-dependent manner, and it was confirmed that the inhibitory activity was 42.7% at 1,000 ㎍/mL. From these results, it was confirmed that the TK extract was valuable as a natural material for cosmetics.