• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.215-224
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• 2013

Recently, many cosmetic researchers have been focused on the development of high functional cosmetics including anti-wrinkle and whitening. In these studies, they couldn't afford to pay a deep attention to stable encapsulations for unstable materials and efficient drug deliveries for them. Particularly, in order to show a degree of instant effects as cosmetics, they can't also ignore moisturizing effect enough to satisfy customers just after applying and its maintenance by improving the function of skin barrier as well as above two effects. Therefore, skin analogue systems have attracted considerable attention in the view of structural and compositional similarity to intercellular membrane in stratum corneum. And, some models for skin analogue composition were developed to improve the function of skin barrier, stably encapsulate unstable materials such as retinol, vitamin B, C, E, etc., and control their skin penetration in order to show good effects as cosmetics. In this study, we suggest the new skin analogue model having the compositional similarity as well as conventional structural ones. Our skin analogue membrane(SAM) is mainly composed of ceramide/ cholesterol/phosphatidylcholin/fatty acids and its structural defects are compensated by including cholesterol amphiphile and controlling the ratio of ceramide/cholesterol. It was possible to confirm the formation of skin analogue membrane having highly-densed multilamella structure and compare them according to the change of each ratio with a polarized microscope, X-ray diffraction. More detaily, we observed their structures with a electron microscope(TEM). Finally, we dispersed them in excess of continuous water phase, observed the formation of maltese-cross liquid crystalline and measured the efficiency of drug deliveries and moisturizing effects.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.145-150
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• 2010

Anoectochilus formosanus, commonly known as "Jewel Orchids", which has been used in traditional folk medicines for feber, pain, and diseases of the lung and liver in Taiwan. We artificially cultured Anoectochilus formosanus plantlet by using the bioreactor culture system for this study from Anoectochilus formosanus. Previously, several studies have been reported on pharmacological activities of lipid-metabolism, hepatoprotective activity, anti-tumor activity and immuno-stimulating effects but other efficacy were not well known as a cosmetic ingredient for skin care. In this study, we investigated the effect of melanogenesis in B16 mouse melanoma cells and lipid droplet accumulation in 3T3-L1 preadipocytes about Anoectochilus formosanus plantlet extract. We report that Anoectochilus formosanus plantlet extract inhibits the cytoplasmic lipid droplet accumulation through adipogenic differentiation of preadipocytes as well as inhibition of tyorsinase activity and melanogenesis. As a result, our findings indicate that Anoectochilus formosanus plantlet extract may be the potential natural ingredient for whitening and slimming cosmetic products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.39 no.2
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• pp.105-115
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• 2013

In Korea, the human skin tests to evaluate the anti-wrinkles and whitening effect have been accomplished in accordance with the KFDA guideline. Regarding the data of the visual assessment and machinery evaluation of the results for the human skin test, unpaired t-test have been used in order to compare between the test and the control groups and paired t-test for the comparison of effects for before and after. Descriptive statistics such as frequency analyses was used for the questionnaire evaluation data. In many cases of the European and American clinical test centers, the methodology and the statistical analysis were similar to ours. But, the documentation obtained by repeated application from identical individual has high relation. For this reason, it is desirable to apply RM ANCOVA and RM ANOVA to a visual assessment and machinery evaluation. We suggested that RM ANCOVA and RM ANOVA is the new approach to statistical analysis of human test data of functional cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.175-182
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• 2010

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase of Cedrela sinensis extracts were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction of extract ($3.54\;{\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction of extract ($2.15\;{\mu}g/mL$) showed more excellent free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$) than the activity of (+)-$\alpha$-tocopherol ($8.98\;{\mu}g/mL$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of Cedrela sinensis extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The ethyl acetate fraction of extract ($0.15\;{\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction of extract ($0.12\;{\mu}g/mL$) showed 10 times more excellent ROS scavenging activity than activity of L-ascorbic acid ($1.50\;{\mu}g/mL$). The protective effects of fractions of Cedrela sinensis on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction of extract and aglycone fraction of extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner ($5{\sim}25\;{\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of Cedrela sinensis extracts on tyrosinase was investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) on tyrosinase were determined with ethyl acetate fraction of Cedrela sinensis extract ($48.00\;{\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction of extract ($5.88\;{\mu}g/mL$). The aglycone fraction showed 40 times more remarkable tyrosinase inhibitory effect than whitening agent, arbutin ($226.88\;{\mu}g/mL$) These results indicate that fractions of Cedrela sinensis can be used as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. The fractions of Cedrela sinensis can be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antioxidant and whitening.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.1
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• pp.39-46
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• 2022

In this study, we tried to find out the value of using Vietnamese Ternstroemia kwangtungensis Merr. (TK) extracts as a functional material. As a result of measuring the level of Nrf2 expression of TK, 50% ethanol extract TK leaf showed the highest activity at a concentration of 200 ㎍/mL. In order to confirm the stability of the extract over time at room temperature, UPLC was performed, and stability was maintained because the patterns of the UV spectrum pattern were the same. In order to confirm the antioxidant efficacy of TK, the activity increased as the concentration increased as a result of measuring electron donating and ABTS⁺ radical scavenging ability. At 1,000 ㎍/mL, they showed effects of 94.6% and 90.8%, respectively. As a result of measuring the tyrosinase inhibitory activity showed an inhibitory ability of 24.4% at a concentration of 1,000 ㎍/mL. In addition, as a result of examining the elastase inhibitory activity of the extract was increased in a concentration-dependent manner, and it was confirmed that the inhibitory activity was 42.7% at 1,000 ㎍/mL. From these results, it was confirmed that the TK extract was valuable as a natural material for cosmetics.

• Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.388-394
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• 2011

Mume fructus is the roasted fruits of Prunus mume and has been used as traditional chinese medicine. In this study, mume fructus extracts were prepared by three different methods including hot water extract (sample1), fermentation extract using Lactobacillus (Sample2-LP and sample-LA) and ethanol extract (sample3). Total polyphenol and flavonoid contents were improved by fermentation process, compared to water extract. Sample 3 showed the highest activity in DPPH radical scavenging. The cytotoxicity of the sample 2-LP was in the range of 83.3% cell viability at $300{\mu}g/m{\ell}$ concentration. Mume fructus extracts in a concentration-dependent manner inhibited melanogenesis and NO synthesis was inhibited. Specifically, the extracts fermented by L. plantarum (sample2-LP) showed higher anti-oxidant activity, anti-inflammatory and skin whitening activity than other extracts. It suggests that sample 2-LP could be potentially used as a resource of materials for functional cosmetics.

• Biomolecules & Therapeutics
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.5-7
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to evaluate tyrosinase inhibitory activity of plant for extracts for cosmetic use. When 80 plant extracts were tested, the methanol extracts of Allium thunbergi, Asparagus oligoclonos, Ixeris dentate, Salvia plebeia, Sophora flavescens and Sophora japonica showed more than 30% inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase activity at 100 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL. Although less active than the reference compound, kojic acid ($IC_{50}$=7.0-16.3 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL), these plant extracts may be used as tyrosinase inhibitors in cosmetics.

• Korean Journal of Plant Resources
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.690-698
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• 2016

Various bioactive substances are found in mistletoe, including viscumneoside III (1) and homoflavoyadorinin B (2), both which inhibit tyrosinase. These two compounds are mainly found in the EtOAc fraction of the mistletoe extract and demonstrate higher rates of tyrosinase inhibition than ascorbic acid, which was used as a control. Our results suggest that mistletoe extracts can be utilized in skin whitening cosmetics.

• Advances in Traditional Medicine
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.80-83
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• 2003

The inhibitory effect of Atractylodis Rhizoma alba extract(AM) on melanogenesis was studied by using B16/F10 melanoma in culture. Cells were cultured in the presence of various concentrations of AM for 48 hrs, and the experiment of total melanin content as a final product and activity of tyrosinase, a key enzyme, in melanogenesis. AM significantly inhibited tyrosinase activity, and melanin content in a dose-dependent manner. These results show that Atractylodes macrocephala extract could be developed as skin whitening components of cosmetics.

• Korean Journal of Plant Resources
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.32-37
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• 2001

Mammalian tyrosinase plays an important role in the process of melanin polymer biosynthesis by catalyzing the hydroxylation of tyrosine to 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine(DOPA) and the oxidation of DOPA to dopaquinone. These processes are major determinant of human skin color and involved in localized hyperpigmentation. Therefore, the enzyme inhibitors have been of great concern as skin-whitening cosmetics. Methanol extracts of 174 oriental herbs were screened for the mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity.