• 건축역사연구
• /
• 제25권5호
• /
• pp.41-50
• /
• 2016

This thesis mainly deals with how 'count of Ryang' was used in the Daehan Empire. Count of Ryang means how many purlins were used in the building with longitudinal section. As a result, the notion of Ryang in the Daehan Empire does not differ from now one. But the usages of that are different from the Joseon Dynasty, and from the present. In the Daehan Empire, count of Ryang mainly was appeared with another word, count of Kan. In the Joseon Dynasty, they used the count of Ryang combined with Kan. Count of Kan had the meaning of purlin-directional length. By doing that, count of Ryang indicates the size of flank, count of Kan indicates the length of front. But in the Daehan Empire, count of Kan, especially the beam-directional length was considered at first, and then count of Ryang. Separately they used another count of Kan meaning the area of building. By using the combined words, count of Kan and Ryang in the beam direction, they got focused on the frame of wooden structure than before.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제8권6호
• /
• pp.687-696
• /
• 2006

This study aims at analyzing the silhouette, dress patterns and detail of Empire Era(1789-1825), and making use of this results for the modern stage costume construction. The dresses of Empire era were divided into X and H style. The results revealed that the bust girth of X style group was bigger than that of H style group. Such patterns as high waistline, puff sleeve, train, etc. which appeared during the peak time of Empire style period were more remarkable for H style group. This obviously indicated that more epical characteristics were observed for H style group than for X style group. Similarly to silhouette analysis, based on the results from cluster analysis conducted to put similar groups together, two groups were formed - a visually differentiated and complex group and a simple group in the absence of detail. Most dress details from Empire period had simple embellishments. Comparison of the average size of the patterns between two groups indicated that waist front length of H style was shorter than that of X style. Front interscye was even greater than back width for both groups. Such trend was quite different from today's pattern in which back width is larger than front width based on body measurements. Preference for big breast during the period was reflected on dress patterns and the side length of front side goes across the back much further for bodice patterns. Two representatives were selected and reproduced using materials similar to those of real dresses of Empire style, following two times fit test.

• 건축역사연구
• /
• 제17권6호
• /
• pp.29-44
• /
• 2008

This paper analyses the railroad trunk line constructed in the Korea since the end of the 19th century. The analysis consists of the following problematics. 1) The process of the decision of the railroad route 2) The relationship of the location of Eupchi and the stations By clarifying the above, the purpose of this paper is to clarify how the morphology of the city in Korea has been affected by the change in the relationship with Korea and Japan. The Empire of Japan has been reconnoitering the Korea since way before the formal contract for the railroad construction was signed. Therefore, the Empire of Japan had a very good understanding of the actual transportation system when it started the construction of the railroad. The railroad construction was used by the Empire of Japan to empower the control over the Korea. For this reason, the new railroad system was constructed as a different system from the former transportation system and the urban system was also affected. Also the relationship of the western powers and Japan around the turn of the 20th century defined the characteristic of the railway system as a pathway through the Korean peninsular to link Japan to the continent. Moreover, being apprehensive about the friction with the western, Japan located the railway stations to avoid the missionary land properties. This made it clear that the restraint relationship between Japan and the western affected the urban special structure.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제25권3호
• /
• pp.340-358
• /
• 2017

The purpose of this study is to fundamentally examine the vests of the robes "Daeraebok" and "Soraebok" of the Korean Empire from the 1876 Port Opening to the 1910 annexation of Korea to Japan. Among the collections of different robes of the Korean Empire which belong to various universities and institutions, only the vests were surveyed. The shape of the vests in the Korean Empire were single-breasted and double-breasted. Most V-necklines and vests with a shawl collar look like a tailored collar, where the collar outline was shaped like a notched and picked collar, which is a mix of the step collar and roll collar of the 19th century. The rear center line was not flat, but inclined to a triangle. All vests of the robe Daeraebok were equipped with gold buttons, and those of the robe Soraebok had black satin buttons. The tailoring characteristic is that the front has a different material (dark black wool) from the back (black silk). This characteristic is expected to be an important basic piece of information in the restoration and reproduction of the vest, which was worn during the imperial period, especially to reveal its shape, characteristics and composition. This characteristic can also be used as data of cultural contents based on Korean modern history.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제8권6호
• /
• pp.57-67
• /
• 2004

The forms of man's costumes in Byzantine Empire were changed according to each composition of costumes. Those forms of costumes had common features of each period when costumes were included. At the same time, however, the fact that differences existed in accordance with a social position including gender, class, occupation, etc. even though in same period were showed. Analytic elements of man's costumes in Byzantine Empire were selected by important factors. This showed the meanings of position and class in that time. The kinds of analytic elements in man's outwear were various but the forms of costumes were not developed because christianity influenced the forms of clothing in the Middle Ages. As the result of synthesis, the main factor of man's costumes was a tunic in Byzantine Empire of the Middle Ages The phases of the times were reflected on the structure of man's costumes in Byzantine Empire. In particular, religious feature was emphasized, and analytic elements of costumes having meanings showed the features of the society at the Middle Ages. For example, a central analytic element of man's costume, an outer garment was a tunic style of H-silhouette that hid the body line. This was influenced by the phases of the times. Namely, the costume stands as a symbol of the times, and also is a cultural sign that reflects phases like politics, economy, religion.

• Journal of East-Asian Urban History
• /
• 제3권1호
• /
• pp.21-56
• /
• 2021

Though known for its connections with maritime trade at varying degrees before the rise of the Manchus and their Qing Empire, Newchwang as a fortress did not become a populous urban settlement in the nineteenth century when the Euro-American observers arrived. Through examining the history of this trade-related locale in the Qing Empire, this article explores the broader historical context, especially the Eight Banners System of the Manchus, which prevented Newchwang from developing into a port-city, and the implications behind.

• 복식
• /
• 제60권3호
• /
• pp.123-137
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study is contemplating and substantiating Korean Empire's court costume through relics and photos. Additionally, the meaning of the pattern of Mugunghwa as the national symbol in the court costume is considered. The results of this study are following. First, a phased introduction of western-style court costume was executed through Ulmi Reformation in 1895 and Court Costume Rule in 1900. U1mi Reformation was characterized by transitional reformation because newly introduced system and traditional costume consolidated in costume. Under Court Costume Rule, however, by accepting western-style on contemporary costume, modernized style was settled in every respect of form and matter. The court costume comprised bicorn, coat, vest, pantaloon, sword, sword belt, white collar and white gloves at audience with the Emperor. Second, by examination of the relics of Chigimgwan and Juimgwan, it was confirmed that the court costume was manufactured in foreign countries such as France and Russia on the basis of order. It was also identified by pictures that court costume was worn by diplomats dispatched. Third, the pattern of Mugunghwa in court costume was featured by embroidery of 6 petal pattern. And the pattern of Mugunghwa, as national symbol, has important meaning in view of history and national affection, while Japanese and European adopted the crest of the royal household. In summary, Korean Empire proclaimed modernized court costume institution to handle international relationship driven by West. It was uneasy reformation in adopting western court costume imported from overseas because its textile and style were completely different from traditional costume. However, the willingness of Korean Empire should be reevaluated in the history of Korean costume, in that Korean Empire established court costume proclaimed its sovereignty domestically and overseas, and that the pattern chosen as national symbol was that of Mugunghwa which is current national flower.

• 기록학연구
• /
• 제22호
• /
• pp.115-155
• /
• 2009

한국이 일본에 병합되면서 갑오개혁~대한제국기 공문서는 조선총독부(朝鮮總督府)로 인계되어 과(課) 단위의 분류체계에서 부(部) 단위로 재분류되었지만, 그전에 몇 번의 재분류과정을 거쳤다. 재분류의 흔적은 갑오개혁~대한제국기 공문서철 표지에 찍힌 분류도장과 창고번호도장에서 확인된다. 분류도장에서는 '부(部)-국(局)-과(課)' 행정체계에서 과(課)를 단위로 문서철을 구분하고 분류도장을 찍고 호수를 부여하였다. 이는 대한제국기 공문서 분류체계와 동일한 것으로, 분류도장을 찍을 당시까지도 課를 단위로 한 분류체계는 유지되었다. 분류도장은 과(課) 단위로 구분하고 각 문서철에 호수를 부여하였지만, 과(課) 하위단위의 분류체계는 과(課)별로 차이가 있었다. 지세과(地稅課) 문서철은 한 호수에 여러 기관이 등장하고 문서연도는 앞뒤 호수에서 중복되었고, 같은 성격의 문서철이 따로 분류되어 있었다. 관세과(關稅課)와 잡세과(雜稅課) 문서철은 문서연도를 기준으로 편철된 두 과(課)의 편철 방식을 반영하여 문서연도를 기준으로 호수를 부여한 것으로 보여지지만, 문서연도와 'イロハ 가(歌)' 순서가 맞지 않았다. 갑오개혁~대한제국기에는 공문서를 과(課) 단위로 편철하였지만, 課 하위단위의 분류규정이 없어 분류도장의 문서철 분류를 대한제국기 공문서 분류체계의 원질서로 파악할 수 있는가의 여부는 명확하지 않다. 그러나 편철 방식은 문서 분류체계를 반영하므로, 편철 방식을 통해 대한제국기 과(課) 하위단위의 분류체계를 추론해 본다면, 분류체계는 '과(課) - 거래기관'과 '과(課) - 문서연도' 두 체계로 구분되었을 것으로 이해된다. 조선총독부는 대한제국기 공문서를 인계받고 창고에 보관하면서, 각 문서철에 창고번호도장을 찍었다. 창고번호도장은 대체적으로 각 창고별로 문서를 편철한 기관을 구분하여 문서철을 보관하였다. 각 창고의 서가에도 대체적으로 분류도장 호수 순으로 문서철을 배열하였지만, 일부 문서철은 호수가 뒤섞여 서가에 배열되어 서가와 호수 순서가 맞지 않았다. 서가에 문서철을 배열한 다음 각 문서철에 'イロハ 가(歌)' 순으로 기호를 부여했지만, 기호 역시 호수 순으로 부여된 것은 아니었다. 조선총독부가 각 창고에 문서철을 보관하는 과정에서 분류도장의 분류체계가 해체되고 있었던 것이다. 창고번호도장에서 나타난 특징 가운데 하나는 분류도장에서 각 문서철에 부여한 보존기간의 의미가 사라지고 있다는 점이다. 보존기간은 해당 문서가 지닌 역사적 행정적 가치에 따라 결정된다. 그런데 창고번호도장에서는 보존기간의 구분 없이 같은 서가에 보존기간이 다른 문서철을 뒤섞어 함께 배열하였다. 일본은 한국을 병합하면서 대한제국기 공문서를 일정 기간이 지난 뒤 폐기해야 할 행정 문서가 아니라, 식민 통치에 필요한 '고고(考古)의 재료(材料)'로 취급하였다. 일반 행정문서에서 식민 통치에 필요한 재료로 문서의 가치 평가가 전환되면서, 문서철에 부여된 보존기간에 상관없이 대한제국기 공문서를 모두 동일한 대상으로 취급하여 함께 보관하였던 것이다. 조선총독부는 식민 통치에 필요한 재료로 활용하기 위해 갑오개혁~대한제국기 공문서를 재정리하면서 부(部)를 단위로 재분류함으로써 대한제국기의 과(課)를 단위로 한 기관별 분류체계와 그 속에 포함되어 있던 기능별 분류의 성격도 해체하였다.

• Acta Via Serica
• /
• 제7권2호
• /
• pp.133-152
• /
• 2022

Both in popular perception and specialized literature, the Achaemenid Empire, for over two centuries the most important player from the Aegean to the Indus, is rarely evoked in correlation with the complex of socio-cultural dynamics which shaped the spaces of what has become known as the Silk Road(s). Building on the case study of the Pazyryk carpet on the one hand (King 2021, 353-361, Linduff and Rubinson 2021, 88-97), and of the spread of an artistic motive such as the quatrefoil on the other (Kim 2021), this paper explores the rich and complex nature of the commercial networks that flourished across Central Asia under the aegis of Achaemenid Great Kings. Both archaeological and literary evidence shall be discussed (especially the Aramaic Documents from Ancient Bactria: Naveh and Shaked 2012, and now King 2021, 315-320). If taken together and read against the grain, such material is significant for the following reasons. First, it suggests the existence - and the scale - of commercial activities directly fostered or indirectly promoted by the imperial administration in Central Asia, an area of crucial importance within the Achaemenid domains, but for which our evidence is rather scanty and difficult to assess. Second, it shows how the Achaemenid "Imperial Paradigm" (Henkelman 2017) affected the social and economic landscape of Central Asia even after the demise of the Empire itself, thus considerably shaping the world of the Silk Road(s) a century before the Ancient Sogdian Letters (de la Vaissière 2005, 43-70) or Zhāng Quiān's famous report.

• 건축역사연구
• /
• 제27권2호
• /
• pp.79-88
• /
• 2018

Foreign Reception Hall in Gyeongungung Palace was constructed during 1899-1902 according to Yesigjangjeong (禮式章程), Korean Empire's modern diplomatic protocol. This bulilding is a case worthy of notice, because its construction process was written in Jubon(奏本), Korean Empire's official document. Yesigjangjeong(禮式章程) regulates the process of diplomat's audience with Emperor Gojong. The process suggested that Foreign Reception Hall was designed as the place of the end as well as the beginning for audience. According to the process, diplomat came through main gate, Daehanmun and outer gate of main hall(Junghwajeon Hall, Audience Hall), then arrived at the stair to Foreign Reception Hall. After waiting time in the hall, he was going to be granted an audience with Emperor. And he exited through Foreign Reception Hall as the reverse way. This hall was constructed as western-style. Subcontracted carpenters and wood sculptors and laborers from China represents that chinese workers were prevailed in the government construction at that time. And modern building materials, such as glass, colored brick, sanitary wares and lightings were applied, which showed the new landscape in the middle of Gyeongungung Palace. Above all, official documents related with this hall reveals Korean Empire supervised this construction for diplomatic protocol. That is the identity of western-style buildings in Gyeongungung Palace.