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Analysis of Dress Style and Patterns for the Reproduction of Empire Style Dress  

Lee, Jeong-Ran (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Pusan National University)
Jung, Jae-Min (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Pusan National University)
Cho, Youn-Joo (Dept. of Practical Arts Education, Chinju National University of Education)
Publication Information
Fashion & Textile Research Journal / v.8, no.6, 2006 , pp. 687-696 More about this Journal
Abstract
This study aims at analyzing the silhouette, dress patterns and detail of Empire Era(1789-1825), and making use of this results for the modern stage costume construction. The dresses of Empire era were divided into X and H style. The results revealed that the bust girth of X style group was bigger than that of H style group. Such patterns as high waistline, puff sleeve, train, etc. which appeared during the peak time of Empire style period were more remarkable for H style group. This obviously indicated that more epical characteristics were observed for H style group than for X style group. Similarly to silhouette analysis, based on the results from cluster analysis conducted to put similar groups together, two groups were formed - a visually differentiated and complex group and a simple group in the absence of detail. Most dress details from Empire period had simple embellishments. Comparison of the average size of the patterns between two groups indicated that waist front length of H style was shorter than that of X style. Front interscye was even greater than back width for both groups. Such trend was quite different from today's pattern in which back width is larger than front width based on body measurements. Preference for big breast during the period was reflected on dress patterns and the side length of front side goes across the back much further for bodice patterns. Two representatives were selected and reproduced using materials similar to those of real dresses of Empire style, following two times fit test.
Keywords
empire era; reproduction; silhouette; detail; dress pattern;
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