• Journal of architectural history
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.41-50
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• 2016

This thesis mainly deals with how 'count of Ryang' was used in the Daehan Empire. Count of Ryang means how many purlins were used in the building with longitudinal section. As a result, the notion of Ryang in the Daehan Empire does not differ from now one. But the usages of that are different from the Joseon Dynasty, and from the present. In the Daehan Empire, count of Ryang mainly was appeared with another word, count of Kan. In the Joseon Dynasty, they used the count of Ryang combined with Kan. Count of Kan had the meaning of purlin-directional length. By doing that, count of Ryang indicates the size of flank, count of Kan indicates the length of front. But in the Daehan Empire, count of Kan, especially the beam-directional length was considered at first, and then count of Ryang. Separately they used another count of Kan meaning the area of building. By using the combined words, count of Kan and Ryang in the beam direction, they got focused on the frame of wooden structure than before.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.687-696
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• 2006

This study aims at analyzing the silhouette, dress patterns and detail of Empire Era(1789-1825), and making use of this results for the modern stage costume construction. The dresses of Empire era were divided into X and H style. The results revealed that the bust girth of X style group was bigger than that of H style group. Such patterns as high waistline, puff sleeve, train, etc. which appeared during the peak time of Empire style period were more remarkable for H style group. This obviously indicated that more epical characteristics were observed for H style group than for X style group. Similarly to silhouette analysis, based on the results from cluster analysis conducted to put similar groups together, two groups were formed - a visually differentiated and complex group and a simple group in the absence of detail. Most dress details from Empire period had simple embellishments. Comparison of the average size of the patterns between two groups indicated that waist front length of H style was shorter than that of X style. Front interscye was even greater than back width for both groups. Such trend was quite different from today's pattern in which back width is larger than front width based on body measurements. Preference for big breast during the period was reflected on dress patterns and the side length of front side goes across the back much further for bodice patterns. Two representatives were selected and reproduced using materials similar to those of real dresses of Empire style, following two times fit test.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.29-44
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• 2008

This paper analyses the railroad trunk line constructed in the Korea since the end of the 19th century. The analysis consists of the following problematics. 1) The process of the decision of the railroad route 2) The relationship of the location of Eupchi and the stations By clarifying the above, the purpose of this paper is to clarify how the morphology of the city in Korea has been affected by the change in the relationship with Korea and Japan. The Empire of Japan has been reconnoitering the Korea since way before the formal contract for the railroad construction was signed. Therefore, the Empire of Japan had a very good understanding of the actual transportation system when it started the construction of the railroad. The railroad construction was used by the Empire of Japan to empower the control over the Korea. For this reason, the new railroad system was constructed as a different system from the former transportation system and the urban system was also affected. Also the relationship of the western powers and Japan around the turn of the 20th century defined the characteristic of the railway system as a pathway through the Korean peninsular to link Japan to the continent. Moreover, being apprehensive about the friction with the western, Japan located the railway stations to avoid the missionary land properties. This made it clear that the restraint relationship between Japan and the western affected the urban special structure.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.340-358
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to fundamentally examine the vests of the robes "Daeraebok" and "Soraebok" of the Korean Empire from the 1876 Port Opening to the 1910 annexation of Korea to Japan. Among the collections of different robes of the Korean Empire which belong to various universities and institutions, only the vests were surveyed. The shape of the vests in the Korean Empire were single-breasted and double-breasted. Most V-necklines and vests with a shawl collar look like a tailored collar, where the collar outline was shaped like a notched and picked collar, which is a mix of the step collar and roll collar of the 19th century. The rear center line was not flat, but inclined to a triangle. All vests of the robe Daeraebok were equipped with gold buttons, and those of the robe Soraebok had black satin buttons. The tailoring characteristic is that the front has a different material (dark black wool) from the back (black silk). This characteristic is expected to be an important basic piece of information in the restoration and reproduction of the vest, which was worn during the imperial period, especially to reveal its shape, characteristics and composition. This characteristic can also be used as data of cultural contents based on Korean modern history.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.57-67
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• 2004

The forms of man's costumes in Byzantine Empire were changed according to each composition of costumes. Those forms of costumes had common features of each period when costumes were included. At the same time, however, the fact that differences existed in accordance with a social position including gender, class, occupation, etc. even though in same period were showed. Analytic elements of man's costumes in Byzantine Empire were selected by important factors. This showed the meanings of position and class in that time. The kinds of analytic elements in man's outwear were various but the forms of costumes were not developed because christianity influenced the forms of clothing in the Middle Ages. As the result of synthesis, the main factor of man's costumes was a tunic in Byzantine Empire of the Middle Ages The phases of the times were reflected on the structure of man's costumes in Byzantine Empire. In particular, religious feature was emphasized, and analytic elements of costumes having meanings showed the features of the society at the Middle Ages. For example, a central analytic element of man's costume, an outer garment was a tunic style of H-silhouette that hid the body line. This was influenced by the phases of the times. Namely, the costume stands as a symbol of the times, and also is a cultural sign that reflects phases like politics, economy, religion.

• Journal of East-Asian Urban History
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.21-56
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• 2021

Though known for its connections with maritime trade at varying degrees before the rise of the Manchus and their Qing Empire, Newchwang as a fortress did not become a populous urban settlement in the nineteenth century when the Euro-American observers arrived. Through examining the history of this trade-related locale in the Qing Empire, this article explores the broader historical context, especially the Eight Banners System of the Manchus, which prevented Newchwang from developing into a port-city, and the implications behind.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.3
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• pp.123-137
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is contemplating and substantiating Korean Empire's court costume through relics and photos. Additionally, the meaning of the pattern of Mugunghwa as the national symbol in the court costume is considered. The results of this study are following. First, a phased introduction of western-style court costume was executed through Ulmi Reformation in 1895 and Court Costume Rule in 1900. U1mi Reformation was characterized by transitional reformation because newly introduced system and traditional costume consolidated in costume. Under Court Costume Rule, however, by accepting western-style on contemporary costume, modernized style was settled in every respect of form and matter. The court costume comprised bicorn, coat, vest, pantaloon, sword, sword belt, white collar and white gloves at audience with the Emperor. Second, by examination of the relics of Chigimgwan and Juimgwan, it was confirmed that the court costume was manufactured in foreign countries such as France and Russia on the basis of order. It was also identified by pictures that court costume was worn by diplomats dispatched. Third, the pattern of Mugunghwa in court costume was featured by embroidery of 6 petal pattern. And the pattern of Mugunghwa, as national symbol, has important meaning in view of history and national affection, while Japanese and European adopted the crest of the royal household. In summary, Korean Empire proclaimed modernized court costume institution to handle international relationship driven by West. It was uneasy reformation in adopting western court costume imported from overseas because its textile and style were completely different from traditional costume. However, the willingness of Korean Empire should be reevaluated in the history of Korean costume, in that Korean Empire established court costume proclaimed its sovereignty domestically and overseas, and that the pattern chosen as national symbol was that of Mugunghwa which is current national flower.

• The Korean Journal of Archival Studies
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• no.22
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• pp.115-155
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• 2009

As Korea was merged into Japan, the official documents during Kabo Reform and The Great Han Empire time were handed over to the Government-General of Chosun and reclassified from section based to ministry based. However they had been reclassified before many times. The footprints of reclassification can be found in the classification stamps and warehouse number stamps which remained on the cover of official documents from Kabo Reform to The Great Han Empire. They classified the documents by Section in the classification system of Ministry-Department-Section, stamped and numbered them. It is consistent with the official document classification system in The Great Han Empire, which shows the section based classification was maintained. Although they stamped by Section and numbered the documents, there were differences in sub classification system by Section. In the documents of Land Tax Section, many institutions can be found. The documents of the same year can be found in different group and documents of similar characteristics are classified in the same group. Customs Section and Other Tax Section seemed to number their documents according to the year of documents. However the year and the order of 'i-ro-ha(イロハ) song' does not match. From Kabo Reform to The Great Han Empire the documents were grouped by Section. However they did not have classification rules for the sub units of Section. Therefore, it is not clear if the document grouping of classification stamps can be understood as the original order of official document classification system of The Great Han Empire. However, given the grouping method reflects the document classification system, the sub section classification system of the Great Han Empire can be inferred through the grouping method. In this inference, it is understood that the classification system was divided into two such as 'Section - Counterpart Institution' and 'Section - Document Issuance Year'. The Government-General of Chosun took over the official documents of The Great Han Empire, stored them in the warehouse and marked them with Warehouse Number Stamps. Warehouse Number Stamp contained the Institution that grouped those documents and the documents were stored by warehouse. Although most of the documents on the shelves in each warehouse were arranged by classification stamp number, some of them were mixed and the order of shelves and that of documents did not match. Although they arranged the documents on the shelves and gave the symbols in the order of 'i-ro-ha(イロハ) song', these symbols were not given by the order of number. During the storage of the documents by the Government-General of Chosun, the classification system according to the classification stamps was affected. One characteristic that can be found in warehouse number stamps is that the preservation period on each document group lost the meaning. The preservation period id decided according to the historical and administrative value. However, the warehouse number stamps did not distinguish the documents according to the preservation period and put the documents with different preservation period on one shelf. As Japan merged Korea, The Great Han Empire did not consider the official documents of the Great Han Empire as administrative documents that should be disposed some time later. It considered them as materials to review the old which is necessary for the colonial governance. As the meaning of the documents has been changed from general administrative documents to the materials that they would need to govern the colony, they dealt with all the official documents of The Great Han Empire as the same object regardless of preservation period. The Government-General of Chosun destroyed the classification system of the Great Han Empire which was based on Section and the functions in the Section by reclassifying them according to Ministry when they reclassified the official documents during Kobo Reform and the Great Han Empire in order to utilize them to govern the colony.

• Acta Via Serica
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.133-152
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• 2022

Both in popular perception and specialized literature, the Achaemenid Empire, for over two centuries the most important player from the Aegean to the Indus, is rarely evoked in correlation with the complex of socio-cultural dynamics which shaped the spaces of what has become known as the Silk Road(s). Building on the case study of the Pazyryk carpet on the one hand (King 2021, 353-361, Linduff and Rubinson 2021, 88-97), and of the spread of an artistic motive such as the quatrefoil on the other (Kim 2021), this paper explores the rich and complex nature of the commercial networks that flourished across Central Asia under the aegis of Achaemenid Great Kings. Both archaeological and literary evidence shall be discussed (especially the Aramaic Documents from Ancient Bactria: Naveh and Shaked 2012, and now King 2021, 315-320). If taken together and read against the grain, such material is significant for the following reasons. First, it suggests the existence - and the scale - of commercial activities directly fostered or indirectly promoted by the imperial administration in Central Asia, an area of crucial importance within the Achaemenid domains, but for which our evidence is rather scanty and difficult to assess. Second, it shows how the Achaemenid "Imperial Paradigm" (Henkelman 2017) affected the social and economic landscape of Central Asia even after the demise of the Empire itself, thus considerably shaping the world of the Silk Road(s) a century before the Ancient Sogdian Letters (de la Vaissière 2005, 43-70) or Zhāng Quiān's famous report.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.79-88
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• 2018

Foreign Reception Hall in Gyeongungung Palace was constructed during 1899-1902 according to Yesigjangjeong (禮式章程), Korean Empire's modern diplomatic protocol. This bulilding is a case worthy of notice, because its construction process was written in Jubon(奏本), Korean Empire's official document. Yesigjangjeong(禮式章程) regulates the process of diplomat's audience with Emperor Gojong. The process suggested that Foreign Reception Hall was designed as the place of the end as well as the beginning for audience. According to the process, diplomat came through main gate, Daehanmun and outer gate of main hall(Junghwajeon Hall, Audience Hall), then arrived at the stair to Foreign Reception Hall. After waiting time in the hall, he was going to be granted an audience with Emperor. And he exited through Foreign Reception Hall as the reverse way. This hall was constructed as western-style. Subcontracted carpenters and wood sculptors and laborers from China represents that chinese workers were prevailed in the government construction at that time. And modern building materials, such as glass, colored brick, sanitary wares and lightings were applied, which showed the new landscape in the middle of Gyeongungung Palace. Above all, official documents related with this hall reveals Korean Empire supervised this construction for diplomatic protocol. That is the identity of western-style buildings in Gyeongungung Palace.