• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.6
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• pp.101-115
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to define women's classic tailored suits surviving, despite current millennial impulses tend toward disintegration in style. Through documentary study, the reason which women had chosen the mannish tailored suits instead of sumptuous dresses in the 20th century beginnings is considered carefully. Also, examining the process of transition of women's classic suits makes it possible to infer the aesthetic characteristics of them. According to study, women had began to wear tailored suits acquiring physical comfort and the equality of the sexes. In the early stage, women imitated men's tailored suits in order to show seriousness, intelligent, capability for social success. However, in accordance with the advance of women's social position women modified it to suits themselves to present intrinsic feminity as well as masculine values. By staying the basic form, classic tailored suits have undergone constant internal changes in relation to sexuality. The aesthetic properties of women's classic tailored suits can be inferred as moderation, dualism, and versatility. In conclusion, the credibility with own authority and the evolutionary character inhering in the classic tailored suits could explain the continuity of them.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.99-109
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the combination of tailored suit details through visual evaluation which helps compensating middle aged women＇s body defects for their more attractive fashion styles. The data evaluated by a multiple ranking test were analyzed using mean, paired t-test, general linear measure and Duncan＇s multiple raged test. The results of this study are as follows: 1) The middle aged woman wearing the opened flap pocket-jacket and slacks looks longer(p〈0.001) in lower part of her body and taller(P〈0.01) as a whole than when wearing others. And, opened jacket makes a middle aged woman be seen with less appeared abdomen(p〈0.01) than that wearing others. 2) The middle aged woman wearing the opened flap pocket-jacket and skirt looks more elegant(p〈0.001), more graceful(p〈0.001), and a bit more balanced(p〈0.05) than that wearing the opened flap pocket-jacket and slacks suits. According to situation(TPO). the middle aged women wearing the opened flap pocket-jacket, and slacks or skirt looks more effective the visual effect in combination of details on Tailored suits. (Korean J of Human Ecology 2(1) : 99-109, 1999)

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.726-740
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the combination of suit details through visual evaluation which helps compensating the classic style suits-middle aged women's body construct for their more attractive fashion styles. The styles of the evaluated suits are formal and classical. The designs of evaluated suits are manipulated in 40 different kinds by the essential elements such as collars, necklines(tailored collars, soutien collars, stand collars, round necklines, V-necklines, etc.), bottoms(slacks, skirts), pocket (flap pocket, none) and opening(opened, closed). The data evaluated by a multiple ranking test were analyzed by paired t-test, ANOVA and Duncan's multiple raged test. The results are summarized as follows : 1. A middle aged woman on skirts suits look more graceful, more elegant, and a bit more refined than that on slacks suits. 2. A middle aged woman wearing a jacket with flap pockets on looks more balanced, and graceful than when wearing with no pockets. 3. Wearing closed jackets looks more balanced and graceful than on opened jackets. 4. The types of collar·necklines can be called the details which put much influence on Image effects. Putting on tailored collar suits is the most graceful, refined, balanced and harmonious case than any others.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.525-536
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the combination of suit details through visual evaluation which helps compensating middle aged womens body defects for their more attractive fashion styles. In this study, styles of the evaluated suits are formal and classical. The designs of evaluated suits are manipulated in 40 different kinds by the essential elements such as collars, necklines(tailored collars, soutien collars, stand collars, round necklines, V-necklines), bottoms(slacks, skirts), pocket(flap pocket, none) and opening(opened, closed). The data evaluated by a multiple ranking test were analyzed by mean, paired t-test, ANOVA and Duncans multiple raged test. The results are summarized as follows: 1) The classic style suits-middle aged womans body construct looks better when she is wearing it with the combination of suit details; opened tailored collar jacket with flap pocket or non-pocket, opened stand collar jacket with non-pocket, closed soutien collar and round neckline jacket with non-pocket, closed V-neckline jacket with flap pocket or non-pocket on slacks. 2) The middle aged woman wearing slacks looks smaller in upper body, longer in lower part of her body and taller as a whole than when wearing a skirt suit. And Opened jacket makes a middle aged woman be seen with less appeared abdomen than that on closed jacket. The stand calar and round neckline jacket with non-flap pockets makes her look smaller in upper body and hip. 3) With tailored, soutien, stand collar jacket, it looks slimmer in a neck, narrower in shoulder, smaller in upper body, and taller than on a round neckline and V-neckline jacket.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.43 no.4 s.206
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• pp.97-110
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• 2005

The need for children's formal wear is growing as parents take their children into formal occasions more often than before. Yet there are some problems to be solved in order to generalize about children's formal wear such as high price and the development of patterns for better fit and design. Mothers of boys were surveyed to find out the needs, complaints, and required improvements of boy's formal wear. Pattern designers of children's formal wear brands were interviewed to determine the size specifications, pattern drafting methods and design features of each brand. Based on these results, several pattern drafting methods were selected. Jackets and pants for 9-year-olds were made by each pattern drafting method using the us standard size. They were compared through wearing test to improve the fit. As a result, pattern drafting methods for children's tailored suits and two formal jackets were suggested.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.113-127
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• 2021

This study aims to analyze the style of men's suits and extract expressional words for the development of semantic differential scales of visual images according to the change in silhouette. Research methods are literature studies, case studies, and questionnaires. The stimuli were created using CLO 3D, a virtual sewing CAD. This study's results are as follows: 1) The British suit jacket has an angled shoulder line using thin pads, and a slightly higher waistline. The pants of the suit have a high waistline and two pleats, so the thighs of the pants are wide. The American suit jacket has a natural shoulder line, and the waistline is not emphasized. The width of the jacket is relaxed, and the length is long. The pants of the suit have a higher waistline, and the pants are wide as well. The Italian suit jacket has wide shoulders, and the waistline is connected lower with a soft curve, and the length is relatively short. The trousers of the suit are tapered and get narrower as it goes down to the hem. 2) Because it originated in the practices of true bespoke tailoring, traditional British suits have a far more 'fitted' silhouette than the mass-produced styles that became emblematic of the American style. By the late 1950s, a sack-style suit was standard American business attire. This technique gives the sack suit its characteristically 'boxy' silhouette. The "Continental" presented a highly tailored silhouette, with padded shoulders, a slim, tight-fitting chest, and a closely tapered waist. The story was that Italian culture valued aesthetics over all else and thus sought the 'slim' suit style as much as possible. 3) The main expressional words of visual images for men's suits differ greatly depending on the silhouette of suit. The visual images are ranked in the order of 'neat', 'classic', 'educated', 'hard', 'mature', for fitted silhouettes. The words of 'masculine', 'basic', 'comfortable', 'simple', 'mature', 'conservative', 'modern', are ranked for boxy silhouettes. And the words of 'slim', 'young', 'neat', are noted for slim silhouettes.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.37-48
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the proper combination of ensemble suit details for the body silhouette of elderly women. In this study, the principal component analysis was used to search for the proper combination of suit details for covering defects of body which has been changed unbalanced. The designs of evaluated suits were manipulated in 18 different kinds by the essential elements such as collars, neckline(round neckline, shirt collar, tailored collar), types of one-piece dress(pleats type, gather type, flare type), and opening(opened, closed). The data evaluated by a multiple ranking test was analyzed by mean, paired t-test, ANOVA and Duncan's multiple ranged test. The results were summarized as follows: In case of normal body type, it had complementary effects for upper body with closed round neckline jacket or shirt collar jacket, and for lower and the whole body with a combination of closed tailored collar jacket or shirt collar jacket with pleats or gored type one piece dress. The visual effect for elderly women's body shape was different in opened or closed jacket. And that enhanced by Jacket with collar.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.117-133
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• 2008

In this research, female adults in ages 25 to 34 that reside in Shanghai, China, have been polled from 29th of December, 2007 to 2nd of February, 2008 in accordance with simple random sampling method. 210 women have been selected and polled. Of these, 10 who responded in appropriately were excluded and the remaining 200 were used in the final analysis. The questionnaires used in this poll were made up of ones that are about how they wear tailored suits and how much they are satisfied with them, and questions about demographical characteristics. SPSSWIN 12.0 Program was used as the analysis method in getting statistics and descriptive statistical analysis, t-test, and $x^2$ analysis have been performed. The summary about the Chinese female adults is as follows: 1. They prefer jackets with design, style, and quality that better fit them to the ones with a name brand and a lower price. 2. They prefer shoulder princess style jackets with short lapel color lengths and slacks with a basic style in waistline. 3. When wearing jackets they feel uncomfortable in all regions and were not satisfied. 4. All responded that they have an experience of having the jackets mended after purchasing them and a high frequency of mending was shown along the waistline, hips, and leg lengths.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.148-159
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to understand continuity and discontinuity of the neoclassic style in early twentieth century fashion modernism. Researching relations in fashion between eighteenth to nineteenth century and twentieth century, the theory of 'linked solution' suggested by Kubler and Broadsky has been accepted. The results of this study are as follows: In early twentieth century fashion, continuity of the neoclassic style is considered as presentation of geometric form based on anatomical truth of the human body and moderation of decoration. Also simple construction to present practical purpose of the dress in honesty were continued. On the other hand, discontinuity of the style is found in the imitation of men's classic tailored suits and standardization of sizes and styles. These are considered to reflect such early twentieth century sociocultural contexts as equality of the sexes and mechanical aesthetics. Hopefully this study will contribute to the broadening of insight in fashion connecting traditions.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.43-59
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to examine the design of Paul Smith based on characteristics of the Britishness. Britishness formed according to the national character to encompass the lifestyles and traits of individual people through a shared natural environment and historic experiences within the national boundaries of the U.K., amid current global trends toward gigantic single market. In every season, Paul Smith is presenting various authentic tailored suits, reflecting the empirical positivism, characterized by traditional conservatism through contemporary reinterpretation, characteristic individualism through a reproduction of the sub-culture, optimistic naturalism through fabric and printing on the basis of the Britishness. This study analyzed the characteristics of the Paul Smith brand distinguished through its unique highlights of strong symbolism of the well-balanced U.K., with very individualistic and innovative ideas presenting basic and methodical research of Britishness. Additionally, the results of this study are expected to facilitate in establishing the identity of the fashion brand and exploring its direction, and it will also provide a crucial basis to seek the methods to express the identity of Korean culture in this era of globalization, setting a new course for the fashion industry.