• 복식
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• 제48권
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• pp.197-216
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• 1999

This study reflects the aim of analyzing the formality and symbolism of the Chanel suit. Chanel had designed jersey and tweed cardigan suits in the 1910s and 1920s while her suits of the 1930s were crisply fitted. The suits of the 1950s and 960s while were comfortable and slightly boxy marked a significant step forword. Lagerfeld's mission at Chanel was to tranmute the basic elements of the Chanel style and make them contemporary. He has also introduced the contemporay wide shoulders and short tihht skirt In place of sensible knee-length skirts he offered hemlines that either grazed the ankles or exposed most of the thighs. Besides her very influential jersey and tweed cardigan suit Chanel continued to assert her considerable strength with materials often making her suits in very delicate feminizing fabrics. in place of the classic boxy tweed jacket Lagerfeld introduced jackets made of terrycloth denim and stretch fabric Many of Chanel's suits show a stylish sense of colour that would have made artist envious. Chanel and Lagerfeld chose variety of colours from beige and grey and black to blue green cerisen and red for her suits. They was completely in tune with the twentieth century understanding the changes in lifestyles of woman and also understanding how her clothes should cater to them Thus the Chanel suit is more a way of life than just a fashion and is synonymous with wealth and aritocracy. It is one of the most popular status-symbol styles of the 20th century.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.184-194
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is twofold: it suggests appropriate sizes in menswear slim-fit jackets according to brand zones and number of buttons, as well as jacket patternmaking methods according to jacket styles by surveying and comparing the overall present status of patternmaking and production for both men's slim-fit and classic-fit jackets. The researcher conducted interviews with patternmakers of sixteen brands with prepared questionnaires. Data were analyzed by descriptive statistics using SPSS 12.0. The results of this study are as follows: first, for the production ratios of jacket style, the jacket styles' respective proportions differ distinctly according to brand zone. Second, for a jacket with the same number of buttons according to brand zone, the size in character-casual brand zone (character casual can be defined as high quality brands producing designer style clothes) is slightly bigger than the men's formal suit. As the number of buttons increases, there are increases in the chest, waist and hip circumference; on the other hand, the front neck width and the distance from the shoulder neck point to the bottom of the lapel both decrease. Furthermore, the amount of wearing ease in the chest, waist, upper arm circumference, and sleeve curve is less in slim-fit jacket styles than in classic-fit jacket styles. Fusible interfacing alone is used in slim-fit jackets, while sew-in interfacing is used in combination with fusible interfacing in classic-fit jackets. This research concludes that when slim-fit men's jackets are manufactured, appropriate patternmaking and manufacturing methods should be considered.

• 한국가정과학회지
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.99-109
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the combination of tailored suit details through visual evaluation which helps compensating middle aged women＇s body defects for their more attractive fashion styles. The data evaluated by a multiple ranking test were analyzed using mean, paired t-test, general linear measure and Duncan＇s multiple raged test. The results of this study are as follows: 1) The middle aged woman wearing the opened flap pocket-jacket and slacks looks longer(p〈0.001) in lower part of her body and taller(P〈0.01) as a whole than when wearing others. And, opened jacket makes a middle aged woman be seen with less appeared abdomen(p〈0.01) than that wearing others. 2) The middle aged woman wearing the opened flap pocket-jacket and skirt looks more elegant(p〈0.001), more graceful(p〈0.001), and a bit more balanced(p〈0.05) than that wearing the opened flap pocket-jacket and slacks suits. According to situation(TPO). the middle aged women wearing the opened flap pocket-jacket, and slacks or skirt looks more effective the visual effect in combination of details on Tailored suits. (Korean J of Human Ecology 2(1) : 99-109, 1999)

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.125-134
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of power-shoulder jacket shown in 08/09 F/W and 09/10 F/W London, Paris, Milan, New York collection and extract main expression words for development of semantic differential scales of visual image according to the change in shoulder angle and width of power-shoulder jacket. The result of this study is as follows. Power-shoulder jacket which were worn by 1980 business women have similar cutting with men's suit jacket, but have characteristics of exaggerating the body figure as exaggerated shoulder with pad and tight waist like an inverted triangle silhouette. Power-shoulder jackets shown in collections used glossy and glittering material and dark colors and formed slim silhouette with matches of shoulder line of temperate senses and casual wear. Like this, the power-shoulder jacket was expanded to daily casual wear from traditional formal wear. Main expression words of visual image of jackets according to the changes in angle and width of shoulder differ greatly depending on the expansion degree of angle and width of shoulder. Changes in shoulder angle may look tense, stiff and too much according to the amount of changes. However, it also has the image of sharp but dignified and charismatic. Also, it helps to show body figure more efficiently like being slim and looking taller. Related to the current trend emphasizing shoulder among women, it is evaluated to be stylish and trendy. When the expansion degree is not too much, changes in shoulder width partly show slim and slender waist under the influence of wider shoulder with basic tailored jacket image. However, when the expansion degree is enlarged, image related to the body figure is more definite compared to other visual images.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.179-190
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• 2012

During recent few years, Bike is arising as one of the most important item of sports market. As well as in domestic markets, customers are demanding specific brands only for young aged riders. Therefore, this study researched current bike wears and suggest digital textile printing with sports wear trends which also have safety and visual impact effectiveness, so it can be satisfied as green products and we also try to suggest sports sensitivity of existing cycle wear to city fashion. The purpose of this study is to figure out 20's-30's female biker attitude for bike wear and their purchasing habits and also their preference, digital textile design of city biker wear based on present condition research of riding wear markets and to establish high quality products with occupying high percentage of global markets and making high profits. For this study, bike wear distributors Survey First, foreign companies generally meet evenly sampling the 20s and 30s targeted vendors 10 companies were selected. 'city sporty ware' or 'casual line' dual 'extreme line' from all manufacturers, including, however did not distinguish it from all the vendors. This higher proportion of the recent upsurge in public and non-professional riders, despite the fact that you can see that the lack of 'Extreme line' compared to the 'casual' line of the city sporty ware production. overall seasonal sales in the spring appeared windbreak jacket, leggings and sweat emissions and at the same time built into the fabric dry faster T-shirt and shorts in the summer sales were higher. autumn jacket and produced excellent warm in winter fleece fabric T-shirts, pants, windshield jacket higher sales. showed improvements in design, improved in the order of the highest and perfect for everyday wear for both. As mentioned, we figure out 20's-30's female rider's attitude for riding suit and their purchasing habits and also their preference, so we can develop riding suit design based on their needs and suggest new design patterns.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.191-199
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was designed to investigate the purchasing considerations given and wearing fit according to suit styles in male consumers in their 30s by conducting questionnarie research with 410 persons. The research intended to give menswear manufacturers the scientific data to improve consumers' satisfaction when menswear brands produce jackets. The summary and conclusions in this study are as follows: First, male consumers have moderate interest in fashion and recognize the impact of fashion on their professional lives. Also, male consumers were aware that recent menswear fashion trends are being changed to slim-fit. Second, by examining the suit inventory and the purchasing consideration according to the suit styles, male consumers in their 30s had between 2 to 4 suits, both in slim-fit and classic-fit, respectively. When consumers purchase a suit, the most important consideration factors are size and wearing fit in both slim-fit and classic-fit. The reason to purchase a slim fit suit is that it seems slim due to its fitted silhouettes, while in a classic-fit suit, it is required because of job nature. Third, the result indicates the circumferences causing the most uncomfortable were the shoulder, chest, the back, and upper arm. Also, they mentioned the chest and the abdominal section including the shoulder as the most uncomfortable circumference to the question on what to be improved in jacket. Therefore, the research suggests that the menswear manufacturer should consider different consumers' desires which require different criteria based on the suit styles.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권2호
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• pp.270-279
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to make a basic resource in developing a design satisfying male consumers＇ fashion inclination by examining the features of the men＇s fashion style shown in the fashion collections. Collected were 1,291 photos relating to the suit style through the analysis on the men＇s fashion collections for 8 years(1995-2002). Representative men＇s fashion images are extracted from these photos, then figurative features were analyzed and typified according to image, and finally representative fashion styles were presented and its meaning was analyzed. Representative men＇s fashion images are Sophisticated, Casual, Elegant, Active, Natural, Classic, Romantic, Ethnic, Military, Marine, Colonial, and Avant-garde. With the subcategories such as detailed shape of jacket and trousers, the relationship of color between upper and lower clothes, type and organizing method of material quality, type and arranging method of pattern, and coordination, the extracted fashion images were analyzed the figurative features. After finding out the common and different features, four men＇s fashion styles were suggested. Formal style maintains the typical suit style and has the feature expressing the men＇s authority, tradition, and honor. It includes Sophisticated, Elegant. and Classic image. Casual St Sporty style has the feature that there is a change in the volume of suit by adding activity to the typical suit style. It includes Casual, Active, and Natural image. Uniformed style is that political and social environment such as war has an influence on the suit design. It includes Military, Marine, and Colonial image. Deformed style has the feature that it suggests new type instead of adhering to the typical suit design. It includes Ethnic, Romantic, and Avant-garde image.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.73-85
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to understand what the Glam Style is, focus on the movie "Velvet Goldmine". The Glam Style is refered early 1970s Glam rockers' costume, typified by silver lurex, corksoled platform, men in make-up, personified, for example, by David Bowie, Marc Bolan, New York Dolls, Roxy Music and Iggy Pop. To approach the Glam Style comprehensively, I have divided the formative background of Glam Style into the improvement technology, the advent of the young generation and the diffusion of mass media, the rock music fever and influence on Pop art. Following is the result of analyzing of the character in the movie. First, Brian Slade has the flamboyant transsexual image by skin-tight space suit, glitter pants, lurex, satin and sequined stretch fabrics, vivid color, gauze make-up, feather boa. Second, Curt Wild expresses the outrageous sexual image by black leather jacket, emphasized black eyes make-up. Third, Mandy Slade appears the exaggerated and frivolous image by gold leopard patterned one piece, fur coat, ornamented with beads, tropical make-up, spangles and the costume jewelry. Forth, Auther Stuart has the complex image by black leather jacket, velvet jacket, skin-tight bold shirt, glitter pants, glitter make-up, silk scarf, cherry-red sunglasses. The characteristics meaning of Glam Style implied in this formative characteristic could be presented as the experimental expression of androgynous, the hordes of outrageous alien and kitsch parody.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.806-814
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• 2011

A solar jacket, which utilizes solar energy for generating electricity, is an example of clothing developed by the fusion of multiple technologies; such fusion of technologies can lead to further developments in the clothing industry and other industries in general. Many research institutes and garment manufacturing companies in Europe and America are developing solar garments; various solar-based products manufactured using solar cells, photovoltaic batteries, etc. are being sold at high prices. The purpose of this study was to investigate the development status of solar garments and their application for generating photovoltaic energy; the study also identified the type of design and upper body clothing preferred by Korean in their early 20s. The survey participants were 188 university students aged between 20 and 25. The design of the proposed six types of solar clothing was evaluated and rated; they were then ranked on the basis of the ratings. A survey on the management of solar garments was conducted, and ratings were assigned according to a 5-point Likert scale, with 5 indicating the strong affirmation. The survey results showed that among the six types of clothing, protective clothing (50%) and sportswear (22%) were more preferable than the others (working clothes (16%), casual clothes (3%), everyday wear(6%), and suits(1%)). Among the six proposed designs, the jumper design (22%) and jean jacket design (21%) were preferred over the others (casual jacket (19%), casual jacket I (15%), classic suit (14%), and climbing jacket (9%)). Factorial analysis of the management of solar garments revealed that the most important factors were the properties of the solar cell and time required for battery charging, and the second important factors were clothing weight and comfort.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.746-754
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• 2016

This study aimed to investigate the status of ready-made suit and MTM (Made-to-measure) suit production with 10 men's suit brands turning over 200 billion won. Their target age group is late 30's to late 40's. Regarding production for the ready-made suit, eight out of 10 brands are using both KS and their own sizing. Classification of body shapes was done in 8 brands, mostly for upper body in simple ways (lean, normal, and obese). All brands are conducting fittings on only standard size. The number of sizes produced is varying depending on the brands; 9 to 17 for a jacket and 9 to 20 for a pair of pants. Regarding on the MTM production, four out of 10 brands have implemented MTM production. The rate of MTM production to their total production is about 15-20%. There were positive opinions on MTM production since it enables to reduce stocks through a small quantity of production for necessary sizes only. The reasons of orders of MTM production were answered as 'no size available', 'unique body shape', etc., and most orders were placed by consumers who are fat-bellied or have thick thighs. They have used MTM automated CAD software developed by Gerber Technology or Investronica. All the brands have utilized automated marker-making software and cutting facilities for MTM production.