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http://dx.doi.org/10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.2.184

Comparisons: Sizes in Men's Slim-Fit Jackets according to Brand Zones and Number of Buttons, and Jacket Patternmaking Methods according to Jacket Styles  

Kim, Myoung-Ok (University of Cincinnati)
Kim, In-Joo (University of Cincinnati)
Suh, Mi-A (Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Hanyang University)
Publication Information
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture / v.20, no.2, 2012 , pp. 184-194 More about this Journal
Abstract
The purpose of this study is twofold: it suggests appropriate sizes in menswear slim-fit jackets according to brand zones and number of buttons, as well as jacket patternmaking methods according to jacket styles by surveying and comparing the overall present status of patternmaking and production for both men's slim-fit and classic-fit jackets. The researcher conducted interviews with patternmakers of sixteen brands with prepared questionnaires. Data were analyzed by descriptive statistics using SPSS 12.0. The results of this study are as follows: first, for the production ratios of jacket style, the jacket styles' respective proportions differ distinctly according to brand zone. Second, for a jacket with the same number of buttons according to brand zone, the size in character-casual brand zone (character casual can be defined as high quality brands producing designer style clothes) is slightly bigger than the men's formal suit. As the number of buttons increases, there are increases in the chest, waist and hip circumference; on the other hand, the front neck width and the distance from the shoulder neck point to the bottom of the lapel both decrease. Furthermore, the amount of wearing ease in the chest, waist, upper arm circumference, and sleeve curve is less in slim-fit jacket styles than in classic-fit jacket styles. Fusible interfacing alone is used in slim-fit jackets, while sew-in interfacing is used in combination with fusible interfacing in classic-fit jackets. This research concludes that when slim-fit men's jackets are manufactured, appropriate patternmaking and manufacturing methods should be considered.
Keywords
slim-fit; classic-fit; jacket manufacture; men's suits; brand zone;
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