• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.399-409
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to compare how the number of panels, the amount of flare and the flare starting point affect the silhouette of the gored skirt. This study consisted of (1) creation of 3D body representations (2) comparison of silhouette between 3D virtual gored skirt and actual gored skirt by pilot experiment (3) pattern drafting of twenty-seven different gored skirts for 3D body representations (4) a computer simulation of twenty-seven different gored skirts for visualization and assessment (5) visual inspection of twenty-seven different 3D virtual gored skirts (6) comparison of ham shapes and measurements for the node and size analysis. A visual inspection of twenty-seven different 3D virtual gored skirts showed clear differences by the amount of flare and the flare starting point ; however, there was notably less difference in the width of ham among six-piece, eight-piece and ten-piece panels. This demonstrated that there was less influence on the number of panels than the amount of flare width of ham and extent of ham for the 3D virtual gored skirt.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.893-907
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• 2001

The main purpose is to study the effects of princess lines on different body types and to disguise any imperfection by using diverse princess lines. We separated testers body shapes into specific body types, H, Y by applying both the direct and the indirect measurements. These designs were evaluated by using the point ranking system method, and then average scores were obtained from these evaluations. Following are the results of the study: 1 These are the resulting illusion effects when the shoulder width of the Princess line was fixed. When the Princess line originated from 1/3 point of the armhole, body types Y appeared to show narrow waist width. A-line silhouette appeared to display the narrowest shoulder width. When the Princess line originated from 2/3 point of the armhole, body types H and Y appeared to exhibit narrowest waist widths, and the A-line silhouette once again displayed the narrowest shoulder width. When the Princess line originated from 1/2 point of the armhole, body type H appeared to exhibit narrow width; and H-line silhouette displayed the narrowest shoulder width 2. When the Princess lines waist w'4th was fixed in order to study illusion effects of waist widths. In this experiment, locations of Princess lines and widths of the skirt were varied. When the waist width was fixed at 6.5 cm, For the H body type, the Princess line location of 1/3 point of the armhole in H-line silhouette design exhibited the narrowest waist width. For the Y body type in A-line silhouette design, the Princess line locations of 1/3 and 1/2 points of the armhole exhibited the narrowest waist width because it displayed the hourglass effect. When the waist width was fixed at 10 cm, H body type did not exhibit any significant differences between designs. For Y body type, A-line silhouette design with the Princess line origination point at 1/3 down the armhole exhibited the narrowest waist width. 3. The illusion effects of the hip were studied by fixating the width of the skirt and varying the locations of Princess line and waist widths. In H-line skirt silhouette designs, all two body types exhibited narrow hips when the Princess line origination points were at 1/3 and 1/2 way down the armhole. For A-line skirt silhouette, H body type exhibited narrow hips when narrow waist design with the Princess line originating from 1/2 point in the shoulder was shown. Y body type exhibited narrow hips when narrow waist design with the Princess line originating from 1/3 point of the armhole and 2/3 point of the shoulder. 4. With both waist and skirt widths fixed, all two body types exhibited taller and slender postures when the Princess line originated from the shoulder compare to the armhole.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.32-46
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to explore a three-dimensional (3D) simulation of skirt shape concepts by manipulating circumferences and lengths via parametric design in the fashion design concept stage. This study also intends to propose a modeling method that can judge and transform the shape through immediate parameter adjustment. We looked at cases that utilized parametric design in other fields of fashion design, reviewed and analyzed the variables used in each study, and constructed parameters suitable to implement skirt fashion design. The traditional design elements required for skirt design, namely waist and hip circumferences, were set as variables in this study. The parametric design was developed to generate ideas of two skirt silhouettes (tight and flared) and three lengths (mini, knee-length, and maxi). To apply the skirt design implemented through variables to the actual 3D human shape, the shape data of women in their 20s and 30s were randomly selected from the 5th human data of Size Korea. Skirt design silhouette modeling was performed by adjusting the variable values according to body type. Parametric design has the potential to help develop design ideas in the field of fashion design, considering the method and characteristics of parameters of the variety of variables and rapid modification. Furthermore, if systematic research on variables and options among fashion design elements is conducted, the possibility of converging them into customization or co-design fashion design processes could be confirmed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.45
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• pp.103-120
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• 1999

The purpose of the study is to show concretely the design features due to cltohes image after classifying the clothes image examining relations between clothes images and design factors. Samples of the study were 507 female university students. Materials of the study were 309 slide film using the spring and fall issues of magazines and catalogues in 1996 and 1997. SAS PC was used to analyze materials and finally priniciple component analysis the analysis by quantification theory 1. The results of the study were as follows. The most important images of clothes were fashion dignity activation and simplicity. In the relationship between the main image and item factor, one-piece jumper half-coat culotte skirt pantaloons and slim pants had an important effect on the fashion image while two-piece jacket, blouse, straight pants had an effect on the dignity image and three-pice, T-shirt, shirt-vest pantaloons normal pants culoote skirt and gather skirt strengthen active image. In the relationship between the main image and silhuette X-silhouette fitting upper and lower clothes upper clothes having waist line or hip bone length and mini-skirt were the factors that raisen fashion image. And in the A-, X-, Y-silhouette having normal fit upper clothes below the knee length skirt and the upper clothes below the hip line were main factors in dignity image. And H-silhouette big size sleeves mini-skirt the upper clothes below hip line were the factors that strengthened the active image. In the relationship between fashion image and detailed factors roll stand and sports collar set-in and shirt sleeves having 5-rate and long sleeves strengthened fashion image. And flat tailored collar boat and high nceckline and bow detail set-i sleeve had an important effect on the dignity image. And shirt collar boat and V-neckline shirt dolman and 7-rate sleeves were the factors that raise active image.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.77-89
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• 2013

This study investigated the formation of silhouette and hemline shape of knit flare skirts according to the properties of knit material through virtual clothing with a 3D virtual clothing system called i-Designer of Technoa, thus building a database of the property data of knit material to reduce the number of sample making steps repeated and implemented several times in the process of clothes making. The results would help to estimate a silhouette in advance, offer assistance to the development of original knit wear, and explore ways to provide basic data for the development of the knit industry of the nation. The investigator made 12 kinds of experimental clothes to the angles(width of skirt: $90^{\circ}$ and $180^{\circ}$), gauge(7G, 12G, and 15G), and grain directions(wale and bias direction) of experimental clothes for virtual clothing. The dynamic characteristics of knit skirt samples according to each gauge were measured with the KES-FB system. Draper shapes were analyzed with the sectional shape data of hemline based on i-Designer. As for the measurements of the sectional shape of hemline and the formation of silhouette, the number of nodes, the average height of node mountains and valleys, and the hemline width right and left and before and after increased at the angle of $180^{\circ}$ than $90^{\circ}$. As gauges multiplied, the number of nodes, and silhouette angle dropping. When considering grain directions, the number of nodes and silhouette index increased in the wale direction at the angle of $90^{\circ}$ with the number of nodes and silhouette angle increasing in the wale direction at the angle of $180^{\circ}$.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.33
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• pp.217-228
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to investigate influence of the construction method of the circular skirt on drapability and shape of static silhouette and length variation. In made 24 types of skirts giving the variations (six kinds of peach skin-like finished fabrics two types of cutting method two types of machine stitch method of hem), The results were as follows: 1. Analysis of drapability In the cutting method thre was similarity between warp direction and true bias direc-tion. In the machine stitch method of hem there was similarity between blind stitch and blind stitch machine. According to the fabrics analysis of drapability was excellent in the order N/P 80/20(fabric 1)>P 100(fabric 5)>P 100(fabric 6)>P 100 (fabric 2)>P 100 (fabric 4)>N/C 50/50(fabric 3). 2. Analysis of the characteristics values of static silhouette shape In the cutting method shape of static sil-houette became wide in the warp direction. In the machine stitch method of hem shape of static silhouette became wide in the blind stitch. According to the fabrics shape of static silhouette became most wide in the N/C 50/50(fabric 3) and shape of static sil-houette become most narrow in the P 100(fabric 2,5) 3. Analysis of the length variation In the cutting method the true bias direc-tion was longer than the warp direction. In the machine stitch method of hem there was simi-machine stitch method of hem there was simi-larity between blind stitch and blind stitch ma-chine. In fabrics the P 100(fabric 6) showed the longest the N/C 50/50(fabric 3) showed most slight. Interaction between the cutting and messure-ment part of skirt lengh. In the warp diretion parts that showed longest length variation were C. G, K, O in the true bias diretion parts that showed most slight length variation were A, E, M, I.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.60 no.2
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• pp.273-287
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• 2022

(K)Hanbok, which is Korea's traditional clothing, differs from the Chinese Hanfu or Japanese Kimono. This study aims to understand the fundamental differences between (K)Hanbok and Hanfu. The Goryeo Dynasty (K)Hanbok, which was particularly popular in China, was established because the Ming Dynasty Hanfu and Chinese fashion were considerably influenced by the 'Koryo Yang'. Firstly, while (K)Hanbok is bulky, Hanfu of the Han Dynasty is characterized by forming a slim silhouette. Due to the climate of the Northern Hemisphere, (K)Hanbok shows a rich silhouette comprising multiple layers of inner pants and a pleated skirt over a voluminous underskirt. On the other hand, the Han's Hanfu creates a straight silhouette in the form of a wrap, revealing the contours of the body. The pleated skirt of the (K)Hanbok can use six to twelve width fabrics, depending on the social position; however, the Hanfu of the Han is a skirt without any pleats. Secondly, the clothing patterns, which have various shapes, are totally different in how they are made and sewn. The Korean (K)Hanbok is a two-piece separate, whereas the Chinese Hanfu style is a one-piece with a skirt. The short length of the (K)Hanbok jacket has a Sup which is cut and pasted allowing the front closure to overlap. Nevertheless, the Hanfu of the Han does not have this Sup because it is of a wrap-around, one-piece style and has an exceptionally large front, and wraps around at the waist which extends to the sides. Thirdly, the (K)Hanbok jacket has separate string Gorums for fastening, and an additional belt around the waist; however, in the case of Gorum, it is unnecessary for a wrapping style of Hanfu. Fourthly, Koreans as an agricultural horse-riding people, basically wore the trousers attached a comfortable gusset, while the Chinese Hanfu had no pants, but the Chinese wore Gaedanggo pants which exposed the hips, inevitably during the Warring States period.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.182-194
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• 2001

The main purpose is to study lines on different body types and to disguise any imperfections by using diverse princess lines. We separated festers body shapes into specific body types, A, H by applying both the direct and the indirect measurements. Following are the results of the study: 1. nose are the resulting illusion effects when the shoulder width of the princess line was fixed. In case of the armhole princess line, the illusion that the waist intervals were narrow or wide in A-line silhouette. In case the shoulder princess line, when the waist interval was narrow, it appeared to show narrow shoulder in A-line silhouette. While the wide waist interval shows the wide shoulder width in H-line silhouette. It regards body type H in the same light as H-line silhouette when the waist interval is narrow, it appeared to show narrow shoulder width in A-line silhouette. When the waist interval was wide, it appeared to give the narrow shoulder width. 2. When the princess lines waist width was fixed in order to study illusion effects of waist widths. Generally, for body type A, Whether the waist interval princess line is narrow or wide, the princess line is located comparatively wide, in A-line silhouette appeared to show relatively slender waist. For body type H, whether the waist interval is narrow or wide, the princess line us situated comparatively narrow interval, H-line silhouette appeared to show sum waist but the differences are not significant 3. The illusion of the hip were studied by fixating the width of the skirt and varying the locations of princess line and waist widths. For the location of both armhole and shoulder princess line in H and A-line silhouette, the narrow shoulder width and the waist appeared to show narrow hips. mile they are wide appeared to show wide hips. 4. With both waist and skirt width fuel, all two body types showed taller and slender postures when the princess line originated from the shoulder compare to the armhole.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.91-101
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to develop semantic differential scales which are necessary to evaluate visual image and effect of flare skirt. As a result of the first survey of 362 female college students, the most effective factors for shape of flare skirt are silhouette, volume of flare, and skirt length. Based on this result, we made flare skirt simulation for visual evaluation with using I-Designer program. 4 kinds of volume of flare($90^{\circ},\;180^{\circ},\;270^{\circ},\;360^{\circ}$) and 3 kinds of skirt length(48cm, 58cm, 68cm) are combined as variables for flare skirt of visual evaluation. For the second survey of 362 female college students, we asked to write suggested adjectives freely. As a result, we could draw out 210 adjectives. 'Feminine' was most frequently used word for flare skirt, and then, 'vivid', 'rhythmic', 'cute', 'soft', 'fat', and 'comfortable' in this order. With considering frequently used words in the preceding study, we selected 41 adjectives. Antonyms were selected from the resulted frequency of this study and preceding study, and the rest of words were found from dictionary. From these process, we developed semantic differential scales for visual image and effect of flare skirt.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.401-414
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• 1997

This study examined the transition of costume in middle and high school girls after the abolition of school-uniform. Fashion photographs of $\ulcorner$Junior$\lrcorner$a Korean magazine for girls were used for the investigation. Skirts used mainly were changed in order of pleat tight flare and tight skirt And skirt length was changed in order of knee midi knee and mini. Slim baggy and straight pants together showed high frequency but after 1992 straight pants were used mainly. And pants of ankle length was prevalent. In jacket Hip line natural waist and H-line silhouette dominated. Silhouette of one-piece dress was changed in order or X line H line and A line. Semi fit and natural waist were prevalent. And length was changed in order of midi knee and mini. The coat of H line Loose semi fit and Knee length was the most frequently appeared style. Waist line of coat was changed in order of natural low no natural waist. In skirt blue white black and black were mainly in spring summer fall and winter respectively. In pants blue was used mainly regardless of the season, In jacket blue in spring and black in other seasons were used. In one-piece derss blue in spring red in summer black in fall and winter were used mainly. Black coat was used mainly. Therefore blue was the most frequently used color by middle and high school girls.