Journal of Fashion Business (패션비즈니스)

The Korean Society of Fashion Business (한국패션비즈니스학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

The Parametric Fashion Design Using Grasshopper -Focused on Skirt Silhouette

  • Jung Min, Kim (Dept. of Fashion Industry, Ewha Womans University) ;
  • Jung Soo, Lee (Dept. of Fashion Industry, Ewha Womans University)
  • Received : 2022.11.07
  • Accepted : 2022.12.27
  • Published : 2022.12.30
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to explore a three-dimensional (3D) simulation of skirt shape concepts by manipulating circumferences and lengths via parametric design in the fashion design concept stage. This study also intends to propose a modeling method that can judge and transform the shape through immediate parameter adjustment. We looked at cases that utilized parametric design in other fields of fashion design, reviewed and analyzed the variables used in each study, and constructed parameters suitable to implement skirt fashion design. The traditional design elements required for skirt design, namely waist and hip circumferences, were set as variables in this study. The parametric design was developed to generate ideas of two skirt silhouettes (tight and flared) and three lengths (mini, knee-length, and maxi). To apply the skirt design implemented through variables to the actual 3D human shape, the shape data of women in their 20s and 30s were randomly selected from the 5th human data of Size Korea. Skirt design silhouette modeling was performed by adjusting the variable values according to body type. Parametric design has the potential to help develop design ideas in the field of fashion design, considering the method and characteristics of parameters of the variety of variables and rapid modification. Furthermore, if systematic research on variables and options among fashion design elements is conducted, the possibility of converging them into customization or co-design fashion design processes could be confirmed.

Keywords

References

  1. Caetano, I., Santos, L., & Leitao, A. (2020). Computational design in architecture: Defining parametric, generative, and algorithmic design. Frontiers of Architectural Research, 9(2), 287-300. doi:10.1016/j.foar.2019.12.008
  2. Choi, H., Lee, S. E., & Kim, C. K. (2016). Development of a parametric design system for membrane Structures. Journal of Korean Association for Spatial Structures, 16(4), 29-36. doi:10.9712/KASS.2016.16.4.029
  3. Choi, J. (2011). Case studies on application of generative design methodology in art and design. Journal of Digital Design, 11(4), 431-440. doi:10.17280/jdd.2011.11.4.042
  4. Cross, N. (2001). Designerly ways of knowing: Design discipline versus design science. Design Issues, 17(3), 49 -55. Retrieved from http://www.jstor.org/stable/1511801 https://doi.org/10.1162/074793601750357196
  5. Electronics and Telecommunications Research Institute. (2021). ETRI, AI 디자이너·모델 생성 기술 개발 [ETRI Develops AI Designer/Model Creation Technology]. Retrieved May 28, 2022, from https://www.etri.re.kr/kor/bbs/view.etri?b_board_id=ETRI06&b_idx=18461
  6. Ellinwood, J. G. (2001). Fashion by design. New York, NY: Fairchild Books.
  7. Han, S., & Kim, I. (2014). Fashion design. Seoul: Kyohakyongusa.
  8. Hernandez, C. R. B. (2006). Thinking parametric design: Introducing parametric Gaudi. Design Studies, 27(3), 309-324. doi:10.1016/j.destud.2005.11.006
  9. Hwang, J. H., & Lee, H. (2019). A parametric model for window design with numerical analysis of prospect i n interior design. Journal of the Korean Institute of Interior Design, 28(5), 142-150. doi:10.14774/JKIID.2019.28.5.142
  10. Jabi. W. (2013). Parametric design for architecture. London: Laurence King Publishing.
  11. Jeong, S. (2019). A method of hole pattern design of products using parametric design. Journal of Industrial Design, 13(4), 85-96. doi:10.37254/ids.2019.12.50.08.96
  12. Jeong, J., Park, H., Lee, Y., Kang, J., & Chun, J. (2021). Development parametric design fashion products using 3D printing technology. Fashion and Textiles, 8(22). doi:10.1186/s40691-021-00247-8
  13. Jordahn, S. (2019, April 11). Philippe Starck, Kartell and Autodesk unveil "world's first production chair designed with artificial intelligence". Dezeen. Retrieved November 7, 2022, from www.dezeen.com/2019/04/11/ai-chair-philippe-starck-kartell-autodesk-artificial-intelligence-video
  14. Kim, M., & Choi, H. (2017). Parametric design using Grasshopper. Seoul: Daega Publishing.
  15. Ko, S. H. (2020). A louver design method using parametric design tool and consideration for parameters. KIEAE Journal, 20(2), 93-101. doi:10.12813/kieae.2020.20.2.093
  16. Lee, J., Ahn, J., Kim, J., Kho, J. M., & Paik, H. Y. (2018). Cognitive evaluation for conceptual design: Cognitive role of a 3D sculpture tool in the design thinking process. Digital Creativity, 29(4), 299-314. doi:10.1080/14626268.2018.1528988
  17. Lee, J. H., Lee, E. H., Cho, H. S., Yang, E. K., & Kho, J. M. (2017). A case study for participatory fashion design using generative design methodology. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 67(4), 58-70. doi:10.7233/jksc.2017.67.4.058
  18. Lee, J. H., Yang, E., & Sun, Z. Y. (2021). Using an immersive virtual reality design tool to support cognitive action and creativity: Educational insights from fashion designers. The Design Journal, 24(4), 503-524. doi:10.1080/14606925.2021.1912902
  19. Lee, J. S. (2020). A study on types of 3D printing applications and their characteristics in fashion design. Journal of Fashion Business, 24(4), 130-143. doi:10.12940/JFB.2020.24.4.130
  20. Lee, K. S., & Kim, Y. I. (2018). A design study on fashi on product prototype using 3D printing and generative design methodology. Journal of the Korean Society of Design Culture, 24(3), 411-423. doi:10.18208/ksdc.2018.24.3.411
  21. Lin, M. (2022). A brief introduction to body-oriented parametric design for 3D-printed fashion and textiles. Textile, 20(1), 55-73. doi:10.1080/14759756.2021.1955582
  22. Matsunaka, Y. (2020, August 24). 구명용 드론 '엑스 베인', 제너레이티브 디자인으로 날아오르다 [Life-saving dronw 'X-Vane' files to generative design]. Redshift by Autodesk. Retrieved August 22, 2022, from https://redshift.autodesk.co.kr/life-saving-drone
  23. McCormack, J. P., Dorin, A., & Innocent, T. C. (2004). Generative design: A paradigm for design research. Futureground - DRS International Conference 2004 (pp.17-21). Melbourne, Australia: Design Research Society. Retrieved from https://dl.designresearchsociety.org/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=2327&context=drs-conference-papers
  24. McQuillan, H. (2020). Digital 3D design as a tool for a ugmenting zero-waste fashion design practice. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 13(1), 89-100. doi:10.1080/17543266.2020.1737248
  25. Moore, S. (2019, July 9). Autodesk collaborated with VW's newly renamed Innovation and Engineering Center California (IECC) to reconceptualize several component s of the electric-infused technical showcase vehicle. Plastics today. Retrieved November 7, 2022, from www. plasticstoday.com/automotive-and-mobility/autodesk-collaborates-volkswagen-on-generative-design-electricvintage-vw-bus/101634532761115
  26. Oxman, R. (2006). Theory and design in the first digitalage. Design studies, 27(3), 229-265. doi:10.1016/j.destud.2005.11.002
  27. Oxman, R. (2017). Thinking difference: Theories and models of parametric design thinking. Design studies, 52, 4-39. doi:10.1016/j.destud.2017.06.001
  28. Park, J. D. (2012). A study of the digital-based form generation methodology - Focused on the parametric algorithms for the non-orthogonal buildings. Journal of Digital Design, 12(1), 577-586. doi:10.17280/jdd.2012.12.1.055
  29. Seomoon, Y., Ju, H. Y., & Kim, Y. I. (2020). The development of fashion detail prototype using 3D modeling SW based on parametric design. Journal of the Korea n Society of Costume, 70(1), 29-45. doi:10.7233/jksc.2020.70.1.029
  30. Sarmakari, N. (2021). Digital 3D fashion designers: Cases of Atacac and the fabricant. Fashion Theory, 1-30. doi:10.1080/1362704X.2021.1981657
  31. Tara, R. (2016, March 24). Under armor implements autodesk's generative design to engineer the perfect 3D-Printed shoe. Engineering. Retrieved March 24, 2022, from https://www.engineering.com/story/under-armourimplements-autodesks-generative-design-to-engineer-the-perfect-3d-printed-shoe
  32. Yang, E. K., & Lee, J. H. (2018). Characteristics of digital fashion communication using immersive virtual reality. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 68(8), 52-65. doi:10.7233/jksc.2018.68.8.052
  33. Yoo, Y. S., & Cho, M. J. (2019). A study of parametric design methodology for 3D modeling parameters of biomorphic clothing sculpture. Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association, 21(2), 109-122. doi:10.30751/kfcda.2019.21.2.109
  34. Woodbury, R. (2010). Elements of parametric design. Oxford, England: Routledge.