• Title/Summary/Keyword: silk finishing

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Relationship winding test with silk finishing (생사정리가 재조검사성적에 미치는 영향)

  • 최병희;유기성
    • Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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    • v.5
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    • pp.47-51
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    • 1965
  • This report was prepared to find the relationship between silk finishing method and winding test result and the obtained results were as followings. 1. The breaks of a lot double skein was larger than that of single skein during winding test. 2. The rear side of test skein showed about double breaks of surface side of it. 3. The skein on silk book corner showed worst breaks, but the inner skeins showed least breaks. 4. The silk breaks per every ten minutes winding period decreased by and by. 5. The danger of silk breaks during winding test showed more in double skein than single skein in case of inperfect silk finishing. 6. The proper moisture content of raw silk after finishing is 10∼11%.

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Studies on Silk Textile Wash and Wear Finishing (絹織物 Wash and Wear 加工硏究)

  • Choe, Byong-Hee;Lee, Yang-Hoo
    • Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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    • v.23 no.1
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    • pp.47-55
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    • 1981
  • Silk textile finishing has been studied for many years by many workers in order to meet more utilities for various endusers. Such studies, however, could not be successful because any natural fibers are hardly change their natures by artificial treating methods. Textile finishing is of course to improve the mechandise qualities and the poor natures of silk so that it may be available as the best textile fiber in the world. Sometimes, famous trade marked textile plays more power than its quality in the silk market, nevertheless, this should be over line of research activities. Meantime, the silk demand has been also transferred from ladies stocking to other clothes since nylon or other synthetic fibers were developed. That is why, the extension of silk demand should be developed by various research works. Specially, silk is known as difficult textile to handle it during washing or ironing process which happened to depress down the silk usage for house wives. In order to solve such problems, the reporter has been worked for many years and now, he believes that he has developed a proper finishing method to coversuch problems. The developed finishing method may be said to eligible with economical aspect and shorten the dry duration after water washing in half against normal silk textile without harming the specific silk nature. As all of us know, silk fiber starts to denature since it was spinned by silkworm and the fiber is formed as overlapped "S" type curves during its concooning process. After it is made as raw silk or sericin silk, it shows as straight line form, but it changes in to waved form in case refining or degumming process in order return to its original spinned form. Such nature is continued during its textile form and ends with hard ironing nature than other textile fibers. Mean while, the silk fiber keeps to continue its denaturing and this is iniciated by repeat of washing and drying which takes many years to reach its final stage, The reporter has found the iniciating denature of silk by his finishing process, with out heat, decreasing the swollen nature which ended with shortening the drying duration after wash. Each washing was carried out by soaking the previously weighed sample in cold water for one hour, then pressed the sample for ten minutes to eliminate its free water component before weighing with same condition. According to this, the treated silk showed much denaturing after the finishing, but the standard silk progressed the denaturing by and by with the repeat of washing and drying, finally reached the same swollen degree of treated silk, Such treating result explains that the treated silk happened to be stebilized nature by the treating immediately. On the other that the treated silk happened to be stebilized nature by the treating immediately. On the other hand, standard silk may reach to such condition by the time of worn out clothes after repeat of washing and drying for many years while the clothes will be no more useful. The decreased swelling nature has brought about the drying period in half against standard silk after all. Not only the tests of tenacity and elongation but also crease resistance recovery, stiffness and shrinkage tests were carried out after each washing and drying which he has found better result on the treated silk textile against the standard silk. The most important thing was to keep the textile feeling of silk by such finishing work before improve any poor nature of silk. The general silk has a nature to absorb smoke or dirt from its surrounding air and reaches to dirty color shade upon such exposure, but the treated one has improved such nature because of its artificial denaturing, another word, it keeps clean longer than the normal silk. Many previous finishing works could improve some specific nature of silk, but it happened to deprave other important natures. The reporters work is, however, specialized to improve the silk to be useful as Wash and Wear Silk without harming its standard natures. So far, this work happened to be a overall innovative finishing method of silk textile.

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A Study on the Resin Finishing of Silk Fabric -Silicone Resin Finishing- (견직물의 수지가공에 관한 연구)

  • 남중희;탁태문
    • Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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    • v.27 no.2
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    • pp.28-39
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    • 1985
  • The structural and useful characteristics of silk habutae treated with silicone resin by emulsion finishing method were studied. The results were obtained through crease recovery test, water repellency test, scanning micrograph observation, amino acid analysis, X-Ray diffraction analysis, and Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy. The results are summarized as follows; 1) The improvement in crease recovery of silk habutae finished with silicone resin, was observed b soaping treatment and curing conditions. 2) The higher water repellency and stiffness in silk fabrics finished with silicone resin was found by the fabric inspection and the scanning electron microscopic observation. It is suggested that silicone resin impregnated into the void of silk fibroin. 3) The polar side chains of amino acid composition were decreased, when the silicone resin was treated on silk fibroin. 4) Through Amino acid analysis of silicone resin finished fibroin, the different amounts of amino acid composition was indicated due to silk fibroin silicone polymer reaction and the structural difference of its fibroin were also proved by X-ray diffractograms. 5) The functionality of the siloxane compound may be deduced from the silicone finished silk habutae by Fourier Transform Spectroscopy. It was concluded from the above results that the useful characteristics of silk fabric can be improved by silicone resin finishing.

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Objective Hand of High-performance Silk Fabrics (기능성 가공된 견직물의 태)

  • Kim, Hyun-Ah;Ryu, Hyo-Seon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.34 no.5
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    • pp.754-764
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    • 2010
  • Most silk fabrics are produced only after the degumming process to make the best use of the properties and have restricted silk processing that do not hinder their performance. However, considering the highly increased preference for natural fibers and the shortage of raw silk, high-quality upgraded silk product functions are required by the development of a processing technology and a good design. This study analyzes the changes with the samples by the functional finish such as softening finishing, wash and wear, tannin weighting by measuring the objective hand of scoured silk and three finished ones using KES-FB. As a result, the change of objective hand of finished silk fabrics that improves functionality was analyzed and compared. The increase of KOSHI after the finish became stiffer show that the silk fabric samples are appropriate for summertime clothes with the retention of a certain clothing climate for the body. The stiffness of finished fabrics for the normal had a closer relationship with the density of fabrics than the type of finishing. The samples (after the softening finishes) maintain better elasticity according to the properties of the softener and the finishing agent. Although the specimens of this study were thin fabrics, their elasticity against compression increased after the softening finishes and became softer than degummed silk. The surface properties of georgette were changed by all types of finishing.

Dual-curable Flame-Retardant Finish of Silk Fabrics Using a Water-soluble Cyclophosphazene Derivative (수용성 Cyclcophosphazene 유도체를 이용한 견섬유의 이중경화형 방염가공)

  • Kim, Jeong-Hwan;Baek, Ji-Yun;Jang, Jinho
    • Textile Coloration and Finishing
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    • v.34 no.4
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    • pp.217-223
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    • 2022
  • Flame-retardant finished silk fabrics could release carcinogenic formaldehyde resulting from the conventional finishing agents. New water-soluble cyclophosphazene derivative can be used as a formaldehyde-free flame retardant for the silk protein. Dichloro tetrakis{N-[3-dimethylamino)propyl]methacrylamido}cyclophosphazene(DCTDCP) can be cured by heat or UV irradiation as a durable flame retardant for the silk fabrics. Treatment conditions were optimized including curing temperature and time, finishing formulations, and UV energy. At the 30% DCTDCP application, peak HRR and THR decreased by 42.6% and 49.6% respectively compared to the pristine silk fabrics. Also char residue increased up to 48% from 11% indicating solid-phase retarding mechanism. The flame-retardant silk fabrics showed a LOI of 31.1 and the washed sample maintained a LOI of 26.8 even after ten laundering cycles.

Development of New Surface Design Technique for Natural Dyeing of Silk Fabric by Salt-Shrinkage Finishing (염축가공에 의한 견직물 천연염색의 새로운 표면 디자인 구현기법 개발)

  • Kim, Chaeyeon;Yoo, Dong Il;Shin, Younsook
    • Textile Coloration and Finishing
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    • v.28 no.3
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    • pp.189-194
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    • 2016
  • The objectives of this research were to study the effect of salt-shrinkage finishing of silk on shrinkage degree and dyeing property of cochineal, and to investigate the efficacy of obtained results for imparting surface design effect on silk fabric. Ultimately it was aimed to suggest a technical process for developing natural dyed silk products with diverse design. Premordanted silk fabric was treated with $Ca(NO_3)_2$ solution(gravity: 1.45) at $90^{\circ}C$ for 1 min, washed, dried for further evaluation. The shrinkage of salt-treated fabric was calculated. The effects of salt treatment on the dye uptake of cochineal and colorfastness were investigated. The degrees of shrinkage were 10% and 3% for warp and weft, respectively. The salt treatment resulted in improving dye uptake of cochineal slightly. In addition, it improved colorfastness to washing and light. On the basis of the results, a technical process composed of premordanting, salt treatment and natural dyeing was suggested and using the process, two examples of textile design were presented. It can be concluded to impart various three dimensional surface design effect on silk fabric by applying salt-shrinkage finishing with combination of natural dyeing and mordanting.

Durable Press Finishing of Silk/Cotton Fabrics with BTCA ( I ) - Effect of Treating Conditions on Physical Properties - (BTCA에 의한 실크/면 교직물의 DP 가공 (I) - 물리적 특성에 미치는 처리 조건의 영향 -)

  • 이문철;조석현
    • Textile Coloration and Finishing
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    • v.14 no.1
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    • pp.43-50
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    • 2002
  • Silk/Cotton fabrics were treated with butanetetracarboxylic acid(BTCA) to improve crease recovery and anti-shrinking properties at various curing temperatures and pH values. We investigated the effects of finishing conditions on add-on of BTCA, bending property(E, 2HB), wrinkle recovery angle, shrinkage, and dyeing properties. The Add-on of BTCA increased with increasing curing temperature and concentration. Crease recovery was improved with decreasing shrinkage. Maximum add-on of BTCA was showed at pH 2.5. In case of dyeing and mercerization, silk side treated with BTCA was more flexible than untreated, whereas cotton side was more stiff. In dyeing after mercerization, B and 2HB values were higher and K/S values were doubled nearly. The hand of fabric improved with decreasing B and 2HB by the BTCA treatment. BTCA treatment after reactive dyeing improved crease recovery, and caused no change of color difference. However, BTCA treatment after reactive dyeing didn't improve crease recovery, whereas B and 2HB were decreased considerably by the treatment.

Durable Press Finishing of Silk/Cotton Fabrics with BTCA (3) - The Study of Ester Crosslinkages of Silk/Cotton Fabrics Treated with BTCA by FT-IR Spectroscopy - (BTCA에 의한 실크/면 교직물의 DP 가공 (3) - FT-IR 분광법에 의한 BTCA 처리 실크/면 교직물의 에스테르 가교 평가 -)

  • Cho, Seok-Hyun;Kim, Yong;Park, Jong-Jun;Lee, Moon-Chul
    • Textile Coloration and Finishing
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    • v.15 no.4
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    • pp.17-23
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    • 2003
  • Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy(FT-IR) was used to characterize the intermolecular ester crosslinkages in cotton cellulose. The FT-IR data show that the band of the ester carbonyl group can be separated from overlapping carboxyl/carbonyl band by converting carboxyl group to carboxylate. When esterification occurs between a polycarboxylic acid and cotton cellulose, the carbonyl groups retained in the cotton exist in three forms; ester, carboxyl, and carboxylate anion. The FT-IR data were also correlated to the durable press rating result obtained. The appearance of BTCA-finished durable press silk/cotton fabrics were improved.

The Preference of Silk Fabrics by the Linen-like Finishing-used Polyurethane Resin (의마가공용 폴리우레탄 수지로 처리된 견직물의 감성평가)

  • Lee, Jung-Soon
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.12 no.3
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    • pp.363-376
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    • 2003
  • The purpose of this research was to investigate the property of sensibility of silk fabrics by the linen-like finishing-used polyurethane resin. Subjective evaluations of preference and related sensory descriptors were estimated. Also, related physical and psychological variables were measured. And their correlations were investigated. The value of EM, WT, WC, MIU, and qmax of silk fabrics treated with polyurethane resin decreased and LT, B, 2HB, G, 2HG, 2HG5, and SMD increased. Physical variables which affected on the preference of summer fabrics are B, 2HB, G, 2HG5, qmax, MIU and LT. It was confirmed that silk fabrics treated with polyurethane resin were preferred as a summer fabric. Individual sensibilities that had effects on the preference of summer fabrics were softness including rough and cold. The intensities of weight value on sensory descriptors, which were related with the preference in summer environments, were in following orders: cold, rough, slippery, flexible, stiff and damp. There was no relationship between the subjective evaluation of preference and related sensory descriptors on the fabric and comfort sensation of fabric was derived from psychological variables

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The Effect of Organic Solvent in the Dyeing of Silk Fiber (II) -The Change of Dyeability by Addition of Ureas- (견섬유의 염색에 있어서 첨가용제의 영향(II) -요소류 첨가에 따른 염색성의 변화-)

  • Yoon, Nam-Sik;Lim, Yong-Jin;Lee, Dong-Soo;Rhee, In-Jeon
    • Textile Coloration and Finishing
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    • v.2 no.3
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    • pp.36-42
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    • 1990
  • The effect of urea and its derivatives, which are known as structure breakers of water, in the dyeing of silk with acid dyes was investigated. Without ureas the maximum dye uptake was observed at $60^{\circ}C$ when dyed with Milling Cyanine 5R, but in the presence of ureas the maximum dye uptake was decreased and its temperature also shifted to lower regin in the order of urea >N-methyl urea > N,N-dimethyl urea>tetramethyl urea. These tendencies were more marked in the dyeing of silk fiber with Orange II, a typical levelling type acid dye. These can be interpreted as the decrease in the hydropholic interaction between fiber molecules which results in the broadening of the inter micelie spacing. The increased partition coefficient of dye molecules in the bath by the action of ureas also contributes to dyeing results, and it can be seen from the spectral characteristics of dyes in aqueous urea solution.

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