Studies on Silk Textile Wash and Wear Finishing

絹織物 Wash and Wear 加工硏究

Silk textile finishing has been studied for many years by many workers in order to meet more utilities for various endusers. Such studies, however, could not be successful because any natural fibers are hardly change their natures by artificial treating methods. Textile finishing is of course to improve the mechandise qualities and the poor natures of silk so that it may be available as the best textile fiber in the world. Sometimes, famous trade marked textile plays more power than its quality in the silk market, nevertheless, this should be over line of research activities. Meantime, the silk demand has been also transferred from ladies stocking to other clothes since nylon or other synthetic fibers were developed. That is why, the extension of silk demand should be developed by various research works. Specially, silk is known as difficult textile to handle it during washing or ironing process which happened to depress down the silk usage for house wives. In order to solve such problems, the reporter has been worked for many years and now, he believes that he has developed a proper finishing method to coversuch problems. The developed finishing method may be said to eligible with economical aspect and shorten the dry duration after water washing in half against normal silk textile without harming the specific silk nature. As all of us know, silk fiber starts to denature since it was spinned by silkworm and the fiber is formed as overlapped "S" type curves during its concooning process. After it is made as raw silk or sericin silk, it shows as straight line form, but it changes in to waved form in case refining or degumming process in order return to its original spinned form. Such nature is continued during its textile form and ends with hard ironing nature than other textile fibers. Mean while, the silk fiber keeps to continue its denaturing and this is iniciated by repeat of washing and drying which takes many years to reach its final stage, The reporter has found the iniciating denature of silk by his finishing process, with out heat, decreasing the swollen nature which ended with shortening the drying duration after wash. Each washing was carried out by soaking the previously weighed sample in cold water for one hour, then pressed the sample for ten minutes to eliminate its free water component before weighing with same condition. According to this, the treated silk showed much denaturing after the finishing, but the standard silk progressed the denaturing by and by with the repeat of washing and drying, finally reached the same swollen degree of treated silk, Such treating result explains that the treated silk happened to be stebilized nature by the treating immediately. On the other that the treated silk happened to be stebilized nature by the treating immediately. On the other hand, standard silk may reach to such condition by the time of worn out clothes after repeat of washing and drying for many years while the clothes will be no more useful. The decreased swelling nature has brought about the drying period in half against standard silk after all. Not only the tests of tenacity and elongation but also crease resistance recovery, stiffness and shrinkage tests were carried out after each washing and drying which he has found better result on the treated silk textile against the standard silk. The most important thing was to keep the textile feeling of silk by such finishing work before improve any poor nature of silk. The general silk has a nature to absorb smoke or dirt from its surrounding air and reaches to dirty color shade upon such exposure, but the treated one has improved such nature because of its artificial denaturing, another word, it keeps clean longer than the normal silk. Many previous finishing works could improve some specific nature of silk, but it happened to deprave other important natures. The reporters work is, however, specialized to improve the silk to be useful as Wash and Wear Silk without harming its standard natures. So far, this work happened to be a overall innovative finishing method of silk textile.

絹織物加工을 實需要者의 利用度를 增加시키기 爲해 多年間 여러 사람에 의하여 硏究되어 왔으나 天然織維이기 때문에 加工方式으로 性質을 變化시키기는 어려워서 滿足스러운 精度로 이루어지지 못하고 있는 實情에 있다. 絹織物加工은 勿論 그 缺點을 補强하는 同時에 商品的價値도 向上시키는데 目的이 있는데 때로는 有名商標가 品質以上으로 販賣를 左右하는 例도 많다. 特히 絹制品은 歡迎을 받지 못하고 있는 實情에 있다. 이러한 問題點을 解決하기 爲해 筆者는 多年間 硏究를 持績하여 왔든바 一般絹織物의 浸潤後 乾燥時間보다 半減된 時間에 乾燥되는 所謂 Wash and Wear絹加工方法의 開發을 하기에 이르렀다. 그리고 그 加工費用이 極히 經濟性인 탓으로 아무런 부담감 없이 加工處理할 수 있는 特徵을 갖이고 있었다. 1. 繭絲는 吐絲營繭曲線이 S字型으로 되어 있어 浸潤時에는 原狀復舊의 性質이 있어 屈曲狀態를 이룩하게 되어 本加工絹織物이 Wash and Wear이기는 하나 가벼운 다림질이 必要하였다. 2. 이러한 加工은 絹絲蛋白質의 變性을 加工過程에서 1% D.I.S.溶液에 3時間 處理하여 變性誘發시킴으로서 可能하였다. 3. 加工絹의 防皺度, 剛乾度를 洗濯回數를 反復하면서 調査하여 본 結果 未處理絹보다 惡化되지 않았다. 4. 未加工絹도 水洗, 乾燥를 反復하게되면 스스로 變性되는 事實을 알았다. 5. 處理絹과 未處理絹의 强力伸度面의 差異가 없었다.