• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.37
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• pp.253-273
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• 1998

The culture reflects the ideology of a particular period in time and such values change according to the needs and requests of that time which eventually becomes an important factorin forming the exterior. The clothing is part of a way that composes and expresses the inherent substance of society and culture. Also, the clothing itself manifests the artistic values and behavior of mankind as an external structure maintaining its place as a big part in culture. The purpose of this study are to elucidat the concept of naturalism, which is discussed in many facets in the modern era; I studied the concept as well as the history of naturalism in order to manifest the meaning of clothing in the context of culture and I explained the concept in terms of the modern era. On such ground, I explained the naturalism expressed through clothing and characterized the exter-nal form of clothing. Also, in order to know the stream of naturalism in the modern context, I referred to the Vogue magazine of the 90s, using Delong's ABC method. Naturalism, in the context of modern fashion is a way to express the nostalgia of nature's vi-ability and purity of ecology apart from the artificial and structural appearance that resulted form scientific enhancement and hence, the ecological crisis. Naturalism pursues the soft- ness and comfort of the natural silhouette, color and material of the human body and it can be said that naturalism emphasizes the mix-ture of three substances : human, nature and clothing. The naturalism can be characterized by the factors expressed in clothing as follows. First, the naturalism shown in the form it-self draws the beauty of the bodyline without any reduction nor exaggeration. Without any distorttion of the human bodyline it shown the curve as one moves along, using the soft material. Second, the naturalism shown in color most-ly uses the natural tone with added white color and other color low in intensity and value like the receded colors of the earth that could be compared to the beauty of ecru. Third, the naturalism shown in the material is thin, light and soft in texture. In order to bring out the most natural curve of the human body, the natural fiber becomes the main material, sometimes, using crude materials. Due to the lindustrial improvement, softness and elasticity is added to the natural fibers giving them an important role as materials. Fourth, the naturalism shown in textile depicts the real natural objects in life. According to my study, the personality of naturalism in modern clothing was shown to be most strong in material and then in the order of form, texture and textile. The material com-posed of the natural silhouette and natural fibers were used to make soft color. In form, Paul Poiret made appearance expressing the natural beauty of the human body without the corset ; it continued with the inner lining making the clothing hard but in the 90s, lining-less, extremely exposed clothes and knit wear is used to emphasize the natural beauty of the body. In color and textile, the tendency spok-en above is not as strong but in color, instead of high intensity or value, the usage of neutral colors with added white color or ecru color, ear-th tone is increasing. In textile, the usage of flowers as natural material is seen frequently. As a whole, naturalistic trend in the 90s is increasing and the modern fashion is breaking out from the artificial and architectural form and conforming to a form that can realize the natural beauty of the human body. And the natural color and textile that conforms to such ideas are being used to pursue the human oriented trend that has appeared due to the increase in usage of soft natural fiber. Nowadays, the idea of returning to nature, defying the artificiality, desiring the leisure and psychological abundance that can be explained as naturalistic way of thinking is necessitated in this modern era as long as humans coexist with nature, this tendency will continue in clothing.

• Journal of Popular Narrative
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.67-99
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• 2019

This paper analyzed romance novels imported into Korea in the 1980s and examined the traits of Korean girls' culture at that time. To this end, This paper chose as subjects the series of 'high-teen romance' published by Samjungdang, 'princess bestseller' by Seoul Publishing and the 'silhouette romance' by Joongang Ilbo in the 1980s. Through the aspects of the paperback romances, the traits of the artist, the content of the work, and the response of the reader, this paper analyzed the position and affection of romance as a genre in Korean culture in the 1980s. In the 1980s, most of the paperback romances available in Korea were translations of the modern and progressive present lines of Harlequin Enterprise's category romance. There were also many writers who were mostly introduced with progressive characters like Charlotte Lamb. The Harlequin romance depicts a story of sensual love. These translated 1980s paperback romance novels allowed girls in Korea to freely imagine the problems of sex and love. In particular, it showed a new perspective on women's sexuality. In Korean love novels, the sexuality of women was treated as an object for the gaze of men. The novels of female writers as college student who criticized this dealt with women's sexuality, but focused on criticism and resistance to the ideology of chastity. The paperback romance made it possible for women to freely enjoy their sexuality by escaping the ethical standards of reality. In addition, the paperback romance was an escape from the frustration of love. Romantic love in Korean love novels did not lead to the unification of mind and body, and always ended in tragedy. On the contrary, the paperback romance started with the fear of the girl who felt love for the first time, showed the process of winning over anxiety, confirming love and reaching a happy marriage. Through this, girls understood general love that was not subordinated to the ideology of chastity, and accepted love positively. The process of establishing romance as a genre in Korean culture and the traits of its readers have not yet been sufficiently clarified yet. This paper compared the romance genre with the other love novels of the day, explaining the position and meaning of the romance genre in Korean culture in the 1980s. Through this, we were able to chart the historical development of the Korean romance genre.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.65-80
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• 1994

In the 20th century, The artistic world was constantly producing new ideas and movements and the world of fashion responded to and reflected them all in greater of lesser degree. Dress designers have always been aware of what is happening In the arts and have always been able to use the discoveries and ideas of the artist to help them solve design problems and create fashion which are new, inventive and reflective of thier time. Up to the present, other researchers have investigated the connections between the fine arts and the Modern Fashion. In this respect, the objective of this research was to clarify the characteristics of painting of the Impressionism on the Modern Fashion. In order to investigate the relationship between the trend of painting and Modern Fashion. Especially, Impressionism's light and color affected both 20th's painting and other sorts of art. That is, the trend of the modern painting, Fauvism, Cubism, Surrealism, Abstract art, Abstract Expressionism, was influenced by Impressionism painting. Similarly, in the sihouette, line, color, fabric pattern of the Modem Fashion was represented characteristics of the Impressionism Painting. The fashion's Fauve, Paul Poiret was excited by the power of color in the same intense way as the 'wild beasts' of art. The color of his clothes during that period was bold and brilliant. Gabrielle Chanel simplified the shape of women's clothes to a square cardigan and rectangular skirt. This was a cubist concept. Art and fashion probably held hands closest in the 1930s, when Elsa Schiaparelli was creating clothes directly influenced by the Surrealist thinking of Salvador Dali. And she burst upon the fashion world with a sweater that had a trompe I'oeil bow. Soma Delaunay was one of great pioneers of Abstract in. She proceeded to mix strong and bright colors into her art and created the geometric and abstract patterns of the clothes and fabrics with her strong color. The influence of Abstract Expressionism was expressed the fabrics of the Modern Fashion. Some fabrics used in Modern Fashion are printed in a dripping pouring and splashing style. For the future, some futher research to investigate the art-fashion connection might involve establishing systematic classifications for silhouette, line, texture, color of the fashion. Moreover, in order to study the influence of fine art on the fashion, a broader approach might wish to analyze the relationship between painting and other plastic arts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.12 s.138
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• pp.1605-1616
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to investigate the commonly accepted ease for a custom-fit business jacket, which provides all customers with the optimum fit regarding their individual body sizes, shapes as well as their personal preference, and also to characterize the factors which affects the ease amount, thereby, supply the reference data to manufacturers of the apparel industry. This study consisted of anthropometric measurements as well as sensory evaluations, and analysed ease amount by body sizes, ages, fit satisfaction, self-perception of body, and the prefered fit levels. There were 272 subjects for anthropometric measurement of which 128 subjects were applied for ease analysis and sensory evaluation. The subjects were males of 20 to 65 years old. The ease at chest was the most sensitive to body sizes and shapes, while waist and hip were easily modified to accommodate the silhouette of the jacket. The main dimensions affecting individual perceptions of fit and ease were the characteristics of body shape, in particular, girth, followed by age. Customers paided most attention to the shoulder fit while customers who preferred a more fitted line showed more concern with ease for jacket fit. It was clearly observable in case of waist fit preference. In addition, the preferred fit at chest, waist and hip would be changed by the perception of ons's hip size.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.29-42
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• 1987

This study was an attempt to survey, the relationships between women's values and preference in clothing design. For the measurement of values scale was to relect the theoretical, economic aesthetic, social. political and religious values explained by Allport-vernon- Lindzey. The preference rate in clothing design consisted of 50 items and 3 factors including color, form and texture. The questionnaire were administered to a sample of women (between college students and adult) who lined in Seoul, Korea. The date for 910 respondents were analyzed by person's carrelation coefficient, to-test and $x^2$ test. Through this study, the followings were founds; 1. Aesthetic value was the mast important of female college students values and economic value was the most important of adult's values. 2. There were significant relation between values and the preference for clothing form in line and style; 1) In line preference, adult women indicated negative correlation with religious values but positive correlation with aesthetic and political values. 2) In style preference, adult women indicated negative correlation with economic values positive correlation with social values, for female college students indicated positive correlation with aesthetic social and political values. 3. There were significant relation between values and preference for texture in touch, thickness, weight, light and luster; 1) In relationship between texture and values, adult women indicated touchness preference negative correlation with theoretical and religious values, for female college students indicated positive correlation with aesthetic and social values. 2) In thickness preference adult women indicated negative correlation with theoretical values but female college students indicated positive correlation with political values. 3) In weight preference, adult women indicated negative correlation with theoretical values. But female college students indicated positive correlation with religious values. 4) In brightness preference, only adult women indicated positive correlation with social values, negative correlation with economic values. In transparency preference, adult women indicated positive correlation with aesthetic values, negative correlation with religious values. 4. There were significant correlation among color and economic, aesthetic; political and religious values, that is, evacuation and economic political values in adult women there were positive correlation with religious values in female students. 1) In chroma only adult women indicated negative correlation with religious values. In warm and cold, positive correlation with economic values in both of them. 2) In coloration, adult women like a complement color indicated negative correlation with aesthetic values, but positive correlation with political values. 5. There were significant differences in the preference of clothing design between female college students and adult women; correlationship with color variables. Evacuation, both of them indicated negative correlation with chroma positive correlation with warm and cold and coloration. In chroma, adult women indicated negative correlation with coloration and warm and cold, for female students indicated negative correlation with coloration. 6. Comparison with clothing preference: 1) In color preference, adult women liked the most white, brown, blue and black in sequence. Female college students liked the most white, also the next is blue and pink. 2) Clothing design preference, there was significant difference in warm and cold and coloration, adult women more liked than female students. In shape of clothing, both of them indicated significant difference in line and style, female students more liked sporty style. In texture, adult women more liked soft thin light weight and bright. 3) In silhouette preference, the most is H-line, female college students more liked.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.3 s.151
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• pp.412-424
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• 2006

This paper starts out with a review of the concepts of naturalism and natural clothes. Based on these concepts, the paper aims to create nature-friendly and high-value modem designs by grafting natural images from butterflies into human bodies. The images of butterflies are combined to show distinguished luxury and diversity with natural materials such as denim. As for the design technology, Adove Illustrator 10, Photoshop 7.0, and Prima Vision Textile Design System are used since they are very popular in the CAD system. The followings are the main findings of our research. Naturalism displays its objectivity based on its inherent interest in human nature and its factual description in scientific approaches with an intention to find a true meaning of human life in nature. Natural clothes can be defined as the clothes of natural silhouette which are made of pure materials in natural colors and dyes from natural motifs such as animals, plants or natural phenomena. We have realized that the visually distinguished looks of butterflies are indeed far more luxurious than those of any other insects and this visual distinction can be utilized to attract the attention from designers. Lastly, it turns out that the digital printing technique can create more variety in colors and design forms than the manual printing, thereby providing designers with more options and practicality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.958-967
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• 2009

Just as various religions of the world have multiple systems based on their own belief system respectively, religious costumes, which are the expression of religion, are varied in forms according to different religions. Nonetheless, this research attempts to examine the universal features of the variety of religious costumes. Since the range of this research is broad and the limit of study is clear, this research confines the study objects into world's four high religions. The purposes of this research are as followings; first, the investigation of the world's high religions, second, the study of the figurative attributes of religious costume to study and discuss the universality of figurative beauty and aesthetic value. Figurative attributes are distinct in religious costume. First, the non structural feature of composition, and the manner in which the costume is worn. Second, the rich silhouette covering the body. Third, the restraint and inhibition of decoration, and fourth, the preference of achromatic color and monotones. 'The beauty of concealing', derived from the religious absolute and chastity, 'The beauty of chastity' influenced by the restraint of decoration and design, and 'The beauty of nature' as the drapery and non structural feature are the universal aesthetic values. Human beings tend to contact the divine beings by pursuing the essential thing and concealing the body through religion. The forms of concealment and chastity, mentioned above are reflected in the usual costumes, affected by religion as well as religious costume.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.140-158
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• 1999

The purposes of this study are to examine the characters of the lower body shape in the middle aged women and to make slacks pattern on the base of four difference body shapes. The lower body shapes were classified into 4 types on the basis of their lateral view silhouettes. The slacks patterns were based on the lower body shape characters and resulted in followings. In “Type 1” of the right body shape with the standard protrusion of abdomen and hips, little difference from conventional patterns was seen in experiment pattern, in which the front waist girth was W/4+0.5㎝+0.5㎝+fold(2.5㎝) and the back waist girth W/4+0.5㎝-0.5㎝+dart(3.5㎝). The front hip girth was defined as H/4+2.0㎝+0.5㎝ and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0㎝-0.5㎝ due to its increased ease amount produced by abdominal fat deposition. In the experimental pattern of “Type 2” with prominent hips, the front and back differences of the waist girth and the hip girth and the hip girth were defined as 1.0㎝ and 2.0㎝ separately. Accordingly, the front waist girth was W/4+0.5㎝+1.0㎝+fold(2.0㎝), the back waist girth W/4+0.5㎝-0.1㎝+dart(6.5㎝), the front hip girth H/4+2.0㎝+1.0㎝ and the back hip girth H/4+2.0㎝-1.0㎝. In “Type 3” with the prominent abdomen and the flat hips, the front waist girth was set up as W/4+0.5㎝+0.5㎝+fold(4.5㎝) for the increased front fold amount and the back waist girth was W/4+0.5㎝+0.5㎝+dart(3.0㎝). The front hip girth was made as H/4+2.5㎝+0.5㎝ and the back hip girth H/4+2.5㎝-0.5㎝. In “Type 4” with prominent abdomen and hips, considered were ① the increased front fold amount due to the abdominal protrusion, ② the increased back dart amount and the decreased back dart length owing to the hips prominent and ③ the front and back differences of waist and hip girth for the lateral view silhouette. Therefore the front waist girth was defined as W/4+0.5㎝+2.0㎝+fold(5.0㎝), the back waist girth as W/4+0.5㎝-2.0㎝+dart(4.0㎝), the front hip girth as H/4+2.0㎝+1.0㎝ and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0㎝-1.0㎝. The sensory evaluation of appearance and comfort was appeared more suitable on the experiment pattern than on the conventional pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.354-363
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• 2011

This study aimed to find the differences in weight control status and eating behavior of satisfied and dissatisfied female high school students regarding their own body shape. The participants consisted of 238 students at two female high schools in Nonsan-si, Chungnam-do in May of 2008. Self-assessment evaluated present body shape and ideal body shape they would like to have by providing silhouette drawings. The subjects were divided into two groups, 'satisfied' and 'dissatisfied', according to the differences between present body shape and ideal body shape. In the distribution of subjects according to body mass index, 100% of overweight, 97.0% of normal weight and 48.7% of underweight belonged to the dissatisfied group. There were significant differences in weight control and eating behavior between dissatisfied and satisfied groups in terms of frequency and reasons of conducting weight control behavior, body weight return after weight reduction, skipping breakfast and consuming fast food. The satisfied group was two times more likely to not conduct weight control behaviors compared to the dissatisfied group. The main reason for trying to control weight differed according to the group; the reason was feeling fat in the dissatisfied group and desiring to be healthy in the satisfied group. The percentage of subjects that returned to their original weights after weight reduction was 5 times higher in the dissatisfied group. The percentages of subjects that regularly skip breakfast and consume fast food were both higher in the dissatisfied group than in the satisfied group. The dissatisfied group responded 'eating alone' more frequently among nine binge eating behaviors compared to the satisfied group. Both groups, however, did not show any difference in overeating of meals, eating speed, intake frequency of regular meals, food preference, preferred cooking method, carbonated beverage intake and snack eating behavior. In summary, the dissatisfied group tried more unnecessary body weight reduction and had poor eating behavior. Accordingly, to correct the biased perception of body shape by the majority of female high school students, the values of our society should change toward the pursuit of beauty of health.

• Archives of Plastic Surgery
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.205-213
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• 2005

There are several characteristics of the nose of orientals. The dorsum of nose is flat and low, the skin is thick with severe tension, the nasal tip is bulbous, the nostril is wide, and the projection of the nose is limited due to a poorly developed alar cartilage with a short columella. In order to improve these untoward characteristics of the nose of Orientals aesthetically, plain augmentation of the dorsum and tip-plasty with conventional methods has been performed by many plastic surgeons. However these conventional rhinoplasty is not enough to obtain satisfactory results when transforming into a more beautiful and aesthetically charming appearance. In order to produce the optimal nasal shape and profile, it is extremely important to consider the aesthetic surgical factors, which are; the position of the nasion, the optimal nasolabial angle(95-100 degree in Orientals), the natural exposure of infra-tip lobule with and columella, the position of the tip defining point in harmony with the dorsal profile and the smooth and natural silhouette of the lateral nasal profile as it descends into the inferior portion of the nose. From April, 2003 to August, 2004, a total of 52 patients underwent open rhinoplasty, adhering to the strict aesthetic principles considered and described priorly. Surgical approach was done through a transcolumella incision and an alar rim incision. The nasal dorsum was augmented with a silicone implant and the shape of the columella and the nasolabial angle were finessed with a silicone strut implant which was placed in between the medial crurae in a manner of a non-visible graft. The nasal tip was corrected by alar cartilage suture technique and onlay graft of shield shaped Alloderm and Gore-Tex. Author obtained the optimal nasal shape and profile aesthetically, and the results, considered satisfactory in all patients without any complications, are as follows; 1. the average increase in nasal length was 2.5 mm, 2. the average decrease in nasal width was 2.1 mm, 3. the average increase in nasal tip projection was 3.2 mm, 4. the changes of nasolabial angles were from 85.5 degree to 94.7 degree, 5. the changes of the angle between the long axis of the external naris was from 101.3 degree to 89.5 degree. In conclusion, this surgical procedure is an effective, reliable and a valuable method in improving the nasal shape, tip projection, nasolabial angle and especially, the lateral facial profile of Orientals aesthetically.