• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.453-466
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• 2008

In order to examine the generation mechanism of long ocean waves along the west coast of Korea and to understand the amplification process of the long ocean waves, sea level, atmospheric pressure and wind data observed every minute from 2007 March 29 to 2007 April 1 were analyzed and onedimensional numerical ocean model experiments were performed. An atmospheric pressure jump propagated southeastward from Backryungdo to Yeonggwang along the west coast of Korea with speed of $13{\sim}27\;m/s$ between 2007 March 30 23:00 and 2007 April 1 1:30. Average magnitude of pressure jump was 4.2 hPa. As a moving atmospheric jump propagated from north to south along the coast, long ocean waves were generated and the sea level abnormally rose or fell at Anheung, Kunsan, Wido and Yeonggwang. Average amplitude of sea level rise (or fall) was about 113.6 cm. In a one-dimensional numerical ocean model, nonlinear shallow water equations were numerically integrated and a moving atmospheric pressure jump with traveling speed of 24 m/s was used as an external force. While the atmospheric pressure jump travels over 60 m depth ocean, a long ocean wave is generated. Because the propagation speed of the atmospheric jump is almost equal to that of the long ocean wave, Proudman resonance occurs and the long ocean wave amplifies. As the atmospheric pressure jump moves into the coastal area shallower than 60 m, the speed of the long ocean wave decreases and Proudman resonance effect decreases. However, the amplitude of the long ocean wave increases and wave length becomes shorter because of shoaling effect. When the long ocean wave hits the land boundary, amplitude of the long ocean wave drastically amplifies due to reflection. Data analysis and numerical experiments suggest that the southeastward propagation of an atmospheric pressure jump over the shallow ocean, which is a necessary condition for Proudaman resonance, generated the long ocean waves along the west coast of Korea on 2007 March 31 and the ocean waves amplified due to shoaling effect in the coastal area and reflection at the shore.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.149-159
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• 1996

Multipurpose development of the coast and ocean can be considered as multifunction construction combining the functions of coastal protection, waterfront amenity and creation or rehabilitation of habitats. Multfunction development of coastal and ocean spaces can be accomplished by applying the ecosystem control structure of artificial habitats which will cultivate fishing ground with ecological harmony to the coastal protection system. To evaluate the applicability of ecosystem control structures as as fundamental coastal protection structure, wave control function of the structure is studied by numerical and physical analyses. Dimensional analysis and hydraulic experiment point out the importance of width and crest depth of ecosystem control structure, construction water depth and wave steepness. Wave control efficiency is estimated by the attenuation coefficient $(K_H)$ according to wave steepness $(H_0/L_0)$, relative constructed water depth $(h_i/H_0)$, relative berm width $(B/L_0)$ and relative crest depth $(h_B/H_0)$ of eosystem control structure. Empirical fomulas are suggested based on the results of model test by applying the multiple model based on this experimental results and numerical wave shoaling-dissipation-breaking model appears to be valid for the analysis of wave transformation around ecosystem control structure in the coastal waters.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.1-8
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• 2001

Wave-induced currents drive nearshore transport processes, and hence an accurate understanding of wave-current interaction is required for proper management of coastal zone. This paper presents details of an adaptive quadtree grid based numerical model of the coupled wave climate and depth-averaged current field. The model accounts for wave breaking, shoaling, refraction, diffraction, wave-current interaction, set-up and set-down, mixing processes, bottom friction effects, and movement of land-water interface at the shoreline. The wave period- and depth-averaged governing equations arc discrctized explicitly by means of an Adarns¬Bashforth second-order finite difference technique on adaptive hierarchical staggered quadtree grids. Results from the numerical model are in reasonable agreement with the laboratory data of longshore current generated by oblique waves on a plane beach (Visser 1980, 1991).

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.75-86
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• 1998

To design a coastal structure in the nearshore region, engineers must have means to estimate wave climate. Waves, approaching the surf zone from offshore, experience changes caused by combined effects of bathymetric variations, interference of man-made structure, and nonlinear interactions among wave trains. This paper has attempted to find out the effects of two of the more subtle phenomena involving nonlinear shallow water waves, amplitude dispersion and secondary wave generation. Boussinesq-type equations can be used to model the nonlinear transformation of surface waves in shallow water due to effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, and reflection. In this paper, generalized Boussinesq equations under the complex bottom condition is derived using the depth averaged velocity with the series expansion of the velocity potential as a product of powers of the depth of flow. A time stepping finite difference method is used to solve the derived equation. Numerical results are compared to hydraulic model results. The result with the non-linear dispersive wave equation can describe an interesting transformation a sinusoidal wave to one with a cnoidal aspect of a rapid degradation into modulated high frequency waves and transient secondary waves in an intermediate region. The amplitude dispersion of the primary wave crest results in a convex wave front after passing through the shoal and the secondary waves generated by the shoal diffracted in a radial manner into surrounding waters.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.55-68
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• 2020

In order to investigate the hydraulic characteristics of a boundary layer streaming over the beach cusps appeared in swells prevailing mild seas, we numerically simulated the shoaling process of Edge waves over the beach cusp. Synchronous Edge waves known to sustain the beach cusps could successfully be duplicated by generating two obliquely colliding Edge waves in front of beach cusps. The amplitude A_B and length L_B of Beach Cusp were elected to be 1.25 m and 18 m, respectively based on the measured data along the Mang-Bang beach. Numerical results show that boundary layer streaming was formed at every phase of shoaling process without exception, and the maximum boundary layer streaming was observed to occur at the crest of sand bar. In RUN 1 where the shortest waves were deployed, the maximum boundary layer streaming was observed to be around 0.32 m/s, which far exceeds the amplitude of free stream by two times. It is also noted that the maximum boundary layer streaming mentioned above greatly differs from the analytical solution by Longuet-Higgins (1957) based on wave Reynolds stress. In doing so, we also identify the recovery procedure of natural beaches in swells prevailing mild seas, which can be summarized such as: as the infra-gravity waves formed in swells by the resonance wave-wave interaction arrives near the breaking line, the sediments ascending near the free surface by the Phase II waves orbital motion were carried toward the pinnacle of foreshore by the shoreward flow commenced at the steep front of breaking waves, and were deposited near the pinnacle of foreshore due to the infiltration.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.246-255
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• 1996

A mild slope equation of parabolic type is derived with the revision of the 2nd order differential term and a new approach for the application to large area is presented. The replacement with long waves can overcome the numerical difficulty due to small waves over the system of large grid sizes. No matter how long the replaced wave length is, the refraction and shoaling are maintained by toeing its own wave speed and group velocity, respectively. However, the diffraction effect is modified by means of Eikonal equation. The developed numerical model was applied to the shoal of Ito and Tanimoto (1972) to yield the satisfactory results.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.296-308
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• 2001

A fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation of Wei et al. is finite differenced by Adams predictor-corrector method. A spatially distributed source function and sponge layers are used to reduce the reflected waves in the domain and wale breaking mechanism is included in the equation. The generated waves are found to be good and the corresponding wale heights are very close to the target values. The shoaling of solitary wave and transformation of regular wave over submerged shelf were simulated successfully. The characteristics of breaking mechanism was identified through the numerical experiment and the results of two dimensional wave propagation test over the spherical shoal showed the importance of nonlinear wave model.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.81-96
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• 2007

Nonlinear shoaling characteristics over surf zone are numerically investigated based on spatially averaged NavierStokes equation. We also test the validity of gradient model for turbulent stresses due to wave breaking using the data acquainted during SUPERTANK LABORATORY DATA COLLECTION PROJECT(Krauss et al., 1992). It turns out that the characteristics length scale of breaking induced current is not negligible, which firmly stands against ever popular gradient model, ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ model, but favors Large Eddy Simulation with finer grid. Based on these observations, we model the residual stress of spatially averaged NavierStokes equation after Lagrangian Dynamic Smagorinsky(Meneveau et al., 1996). We numerically integrate newly proposed wave equations using SPH with Gaussian kernel function. Severely deformed water surface profile, free falling water particle, queuing splash after landing of water particle on the free surface and wave finger due to structured vortex on rear side of wave crest(Narayanaswamy and Dalrymple, 2002) are successfully duplicated in the numerical simulation of wave propagation over uniform slope beach, which so far have been regarded very difficult features to mimic in the computational fluid mechanics.

• Water for future
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.39-48
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• 1993

Since major reason of disaster in coastal area is wave action, prediction of wave deformation is one of the most important problems to ocean engineers. Wave deformations are due to physical factors such as shoaling effect, reflection, diffraction, refraction, scattering and radiation etc. Recently, numerical models are widely utilized to calculate wave deformation. In this study, the mild slope equation was used in calculatin gwave deformation which considers diffraction and refraction. In order to slove the governing equation, finite element method is introduced. Even though this method has some difficulties, it is proved to predict the wave deformation accurately even in complicated boundary conditions. To verify the validity of the numerical calculation, experiments were carried out in a model harbour of rectangular shape which has mild slope bottom. The results by F.E.M. are compared with those of both Lee's method and the experiment. The results of these three methods show reasonable agreement.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.28 no.5B
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• pp.559-573
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• 2008

In this study, we newly proposed 3-D nonlinear wave driver utilizing the Navier-Stokes Eq. the numerical integration of which is carried out using SPH (Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics), an internal wave generation with the source function of Gaussian distribution and an energy absorbing layer. For the verification of new 3-D nonlinear wave driver, we numerically simulate the sloshing problem within a parabolic water basin triggered by a Gaussian hump and uniformly inclined water surface by Thacker (1981). It turns out that the qualitative behavior of sloshing caused by relaxing the external force which makes a free surface convex or uniformly inclined is successfully simulated even though phase error is visible and an inundation height shrinks as numerical simulation more proceeds. For the more severe test, we also simulate the nonlinear shoaling and refraction over uniform beach of wedge shape. It is shown that numerically simulated waves are less refracted than the linear counterpart by Hamiltonian ray theory due to nonlinearity, energy dissipation at the bottom and side walls, energy loss induced by breaking, and the hydraulic jump occurring when breaking waves encounter a down-rush by the preceding wave.