Surf Zone Wave Transformations Simulated by a Fully Nonlinear Boussinesq Equation

완전비선형 Boussinesq방정식을 이용한 쇄파대의 파랑변형 모의

  • 윤종태 (경성대학교 건설·환경공학부) ;
  • 김종무 (경성대학교 건설·환경공학부)
  • Published : 2001.12.01

Abstract

A fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation of Wei et al. is finite differenced by Adams predictor-corrector method. A spatially distributed source function and sponge layers are used to reduce the reflected waves in the domain and wale breaking mechanism is included in the equation. The generated waves are found to be good and the corresponding wale heights are very close to the target values. The shoaling of solitary wave and transformation of regular wave over submerged shelf were simulated successfully. The characteristics of breaking mechanism was identified through the numerical experiment and the results of two dimensional wave propagation test over the spherical shoal showed the importance of nonlinear wave model.

Wei et al.의 완전비선형 Boussinesq방정식을 4차의 Adams predictorcorrector기법을 사용하여 차분하고 면 내부조파기법과 스폰지 경계충을 사용하였으며 쇄파구조를 추가하였다. 면 내부조파기법을 사용해 목적파를 잘 재현할 수 있었다. 비선형성이 부각되는 고립파의 천수실험을 통해 완전비선형 모형의 정화성을 확인할 수 있었고 해저평붕으로 인한 규칙파의 변형을 모의해 보았다. 쇄파 수치실험을 통해 적용된 쇄파구조의 특성을 확인해 보았고 수중천퇴에 대한 이차원 파랑전파 수치실험을 통해 비선형 모형의 중요성을 확인하였다.

Keywords

References

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