• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.6
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• pp.112-126
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• 2012

The style of a dress allows important characterization of an era since they reflect contemporary politics, society, culture and arts. Within a same category, period costumes develop into styles that reflect specific consciousness. The research method and the scope of the study are as follows: the research adopts a historical study method and a comparative research from a microscopic point. The scope includes resistance costumes that proceed with sans-culotte that comprises of the resistance party during the 18th French Revolution (1783-1799), and also a Hippy style which was popularized during the 1960s and 1970s for its anti-war movement. We researched both similarities and differences of design factors reflecting resisting consciousness in costumes that affected costume characteristics related to their socio-cultural background. Sans-culotte and the Hippie style reflect a common denominator in anti-social resisting customs. First, they show common characteristics that combine fashion trends of resistant element and design features. Second, they have common features which are the characteristics of deviation. On the other hand, these two customs also present a discriminative denominator in anti-social resisting customs. In the case of sans-culotte, they tend to symbolize confrontation by dividing into two equal parts: the old and new mode. Sans-culotte confronts the conventional mode and promotes practical costume styles based on justice standpoints. First, hippies pursue an exposition of individual emotions that disclose internal meanings of love and desire. Second, they focus on subjective characteristics and chase after masteries and pleasures by expressing intensity. Third, it extends and develops folk costumes from many countries that reveal ethnic trends. Therefore, this research compares and contrasts different changes in the fashions of revolutionary periods, and aims to recognize the relationship between design and costume characteristics, thus contributing to the predictions of future changes in fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Intelligent Systems
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.549-557
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• 2001

Morphological analysis and POS tagging require a dictionary for the language at hand . In this fashion though it is impossible to analyze a language a dictionary. We also have difficulty if significant portion of the vocabulary is new or unknown . This paper explores the possibility of learning morphology of an agglutinative language. in particular Korean language, without any prior lexical knowledge of the language. We use unsupervised learning in that there is no instructor to guide the outcome of the learner, nor any tagged corpus. Here are the main characteristics of the approach: First. we use only raw corpus without any tags attached or any dictionary. Second, unlike many heuristics that are theoretically ungrounded, this method is based on statistical methods , which are widely accepted. The method is currently applied only to Korean language but since it is essentially language-neutral it can easily be adapted to other agglutinative languages.

• Fashion, Industry and Education
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.24-34
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• 2016

This research examined two decades of the U.S. used clothing exports to the world. All countries (209) were classified into four groups based on the level of economic development. Between 1996 and 2012, U.S. used clothing exports shifted away from low-income economies to high-income economies. For the first time, our research demonstrated that the majority of used clothing discarded by American consumers is exported to high-income economies instead of poorest nations of the world. Next, used clothing exports and imports by volume and value in seven high-income countries were analyzed. The high-income countries not only exported but also imported significant amount of used clothing, which indicates a growing demand for worn apparel in developed nations. The demand might be at least partially attributed to the popular vintage clothing trend and increasing consumer environmentalism. Implications regarding development and implementation of a new classification system of worn clothing and recommendations for future research are presented.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.9
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• pp.1333-1342
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• 2008

This study intended to evaluate the visual sensibility of textiles of knitting simulation through the painting function of SDS-ONE, a computer knitting system, with the use of various fancy yarns for hand knitting. For this study, six kinds of fancy yarns with difference manufacturing style and form were selected: loop yarn, tamtam yarn, fur1 yarn, fur2 yarn, ladder yarn, and tape yarn. In order to create a computer knitting simulation, paint function of SDS-ONE was employed to scan the fancy yarns for hand knitting with a scanner. Then, after the registration of the yarns as data, the yarn was brought in for knitting simulation in plain stitch with 3 gauge. After that a survey was conducted involving 60 female experts in their twenties. Using SPSS 12.0, factor analysis, reliability, Pearson correlation coefficient, ANOVA, Duncan test, and regression analysis were performed to analyze the collected data. First, according to the result of analyzing the visual sense factor, three factors of the 'inflexibleness/ruggedness sense', 'lightweight sense', and 'smoothness sense' was extracted. According to the result of analyzing the visual sensibility factor, three factors of the 'activity', 'grace', and 'purity' was extracted. Second, With regard to preference and purchase intention, the knitted fabric with tamtam yarn(H2) was preferred than the other samples, indicating that the respondents had intention to purchase it. As for word-of-mouth intention, H2 ranked the first place, implying the respondents had intention to recommend it to other people. Third, the examination of the use of products each knitting simulation knit found that sweater and muffler are the most appropriate knit products. And H2 was the most suitable sample for sweater and muffler products. This study tried to prove that knit textile can be visually evaluated through a computer knitting simulation without the actual knitting and then to provide accurate data to related companies or the academic circle.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.8
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• pp.170-183
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of different images of movie costume centering on the actresses. The perfect examples are the characters from the movie "The Devil Wears Prada", in which the film is about the fashion leaders of the world. This study consists of visual data as well as images including some scenes from the movie. The sources were collected from relative media, articles in journals, internet sites relating to the movies and photos and we have analyzed differentiated each of the character's wardrobes and its characteristics appearing in each image. The result of this study is as follows. First, the characteristic image of Andy, the main character (Anne Hathaway) in the movie changed dramatically. Andy'swardrobe is focused on the character's makeover in the movie as the character changes from a slob dresser to an assistant of the editor-in-chief of the number one fashion magazine in the world. Each scene definitely shows different styles of the latest premier designers' clothes and accessories. On the other hand, Miranda Priestly appears as the fashion leader and icon throughout the whole movie. Her career look in each scene was very chic and sophisticated in the office while her party dresses were sexy and glamorous in the movie where she was at many of the promotion parties and events. The second analysis of characteristic images of movie costumes is comparing the styles of Andy, Miranda and Emily(the other assistant of Miranda). Andy's wardrobe was divided Into two situations-before working for the magazine and while working for Miranda. As Andy's wardrobe began to upscale, the clothing images of Emily and Miranda became less fashionable. As a result of this study, the movie costumes played a vital role in expressing the changes and differentiating each character's images.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.55-68
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• 2003

The purpose of this research is to expand the realm of a button for a decorative purpose through embossing the effect and gravity of a button in fashion by designing the new ceramic buttons which are mainly used for decorative function in costume. In order to acquire a motif for the design, I analyzed several works of Gustav Klimt. As the result, those feature can be classified into the use of decorative lines, mosaic forms, and harmony of golden yellow and black, and it can be applied to buttons and clothes design. The sort of clay used in manufacturing the ceramic buttons was white clay to have high density and to diffuse light well, and press shaping techniques using plaster mold were employed. The baking was performed in an electronic kiln at $800^{\circ}C$ for the first time and at $1250^{\circ}C$ for the second time. Based on wearable designs in 2002/2003 F/W Trend of Interfashion Planning, I made three pieces of dress which could express the button's capability of decoration with effect. This is expressing a simplified form which shows up in details of and yellow and red pink were used to harmonize with golden yellow clothes. As an application of shapes of foliage in I transformed its size and form to be consistent with a jacket and a tube top. To accord with golden beige costume, I made a curve, showing up in Klimt's paintings, with golden color on a circle shape which was also a main motif in his paintings.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.8 s.99
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• pp.15-29
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• 2005

In these days, T-shirt is not only the simple wearing goods but also the suggestive communication, which is not showed outward as well as being intended. Also, it indicates expression of contemporary sensitive living, expression of substantial oneself, and the effective commercial promotion fer advertising fashion brand and promoting the object's sale. Following the above concept, the aim of this study is to understand the outstanding tendency of ' The T-shirt one-point graphic's functions and visual image ', which is appeared after 2001 in the fashion industry's commercial aspects. The visual image's applicative rate of the T-shirt one point graphic is the following; The best applicative rate on T-shirt one- point graphic is the visual image using the mix & match technique shown 42.8 percent applicative rate. The second one is the visual image using the typography shown 38.7 percent. The third one is the visual image using the animals and plants shown 8.5 percent. The fourth one is the visual image using the person's character shown 3.8 percent. The fifth one is the visual image using the geometry shown 2.4 percent. The least one is the visual image using the cartoon character shown 1.6 percent. On the other hand, another important function of t-shirt one-point graphic is the following; 1, The essential function as t-shirt design factor. 2, The promotional function as brand image marketing and brand advertisement. 3. The communicative function as discriminative strategy of object. 4. The achievable function as value added goods.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.741-752
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• 2009

As a major obstacle to active online purchase at the level of consumer in China, distrust is raised in this study. Most of previous studies showed that trust is a major variable to cause a relational unity between company and consumer, on the other hand, this study attempts to show that according to the two dimensional point of view regarding trust each dimension of both trust and distrust distinctly contributes to marketing achievement. Interaction, perceived popularity, information usefulness, perceived security risk and perceived dealing risk were created as preceding variable, trust and distrust were constituted as parameter and relation absorption and purchase intention as consequential variable. These variables were analyzed with structural equation modeling (SEM) in LISREL 8.3 program. The results for this study are as follows. First, relation between exchange actors in marketing is divided into two concepts of trust and distrust differently from the previous studies. On the assumption that trust and distrust might exist simultaneously and they would distinctly have an influence on marketing consequency such as relation absorption and repurchase intention, it is identified that trust and distrust are a different dimension in online context. Second, the formative factor of online trust-distrust is identified and it is shown what relationship between internet shopping mall and relation absorption and foregoing purchase intention resulting from online trust-distrust exists. Third, it is shown that in online context the formative factor of online trust-distrust is distinctly contributed to relation absorption and repurchase intention. It is suggested that trust needs to be managed two-dimensionally separating from trust and distrust. Fourth, it is shown that both trust and distrust factor in terms of relation absorption and repurchase intention of consumer in internet shopping mall are significant variables. Trust is linked with repurchase intention through relation absorption, however, distrust is not directly linked with repurchase intention through relation absorption. Thus, the ripple effect of distrust appears to be much higher than that of trust.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.608-618
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to offer basic data to global fashion market by surveying differences between lifestyle of women in Korea and America and their clothing behavior with female consumers in 30s in Korea or America with each other cultural background, comparing/analyzing differences between lifestyle and clothing behavior according to Korea and America and making a close inquiry into an effect of lifestyle on clothing behavior. The results of the study were as follows. First, when the study carried out factor analysis of lifestyle, five factors- outward appearance-oriented, leisure-oriented, family-centered, information-oriented and economy- oriented-were deducted. In outward appearance-oriented lifestyle and information-oriented lifestyle, the women in Korea were higher than the women in America. In family-centered lifestyle, the women in America were higher than the women in Korea. Second, when the study carried out factor analysis of clothing behavior, eight factors- aesthetics, indifference, interest, economical feasibility, sympathy, planning, brand-oriented tendency and individuality-were deducted. In interest, sympathy, planning and individuality, the women in Korea were higher than the women in America. On the other hand, in indifference and economical feasibility, the women in America were higher than the women in Korea. Third, in the women in Korea, their lifestyle had an effect on aesthetics, indifference, interest and brand-oriented tendency. Especially, information-oriented lifestyle had an effect on four clothing behaviors. In the Korean women, their outward appearance-oriented and leisure-oriented lifestyles had an effect on only aesthetics, indifference and interest.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.1-9
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• 2015

This study investigated the effects of persimmon-dyed clothing materials upon thermophysiological responses and subjective comfort sensations during exercise and rest in a warm environment. Six healthy, untrained women participated in two separate testing sessions, with cotton materials dyed with astringent persimmon extract (DC) and undyed cotton materials (UDC). The physical characteristics associated with heat and moisture transfer were improved in DC; also, stiffness, anti-drapery stiffness and crispness in the primary hand values were higher in DC. The experimental protocol consisted of a 10-min rest, 15-min exercise on a treadmill (at ${7km{\cdot}h^{-1}}$) and 25-min recovery at $28{\pm}0.2^{\circ}C$ and $50{\pm}3%\;RH$. The results were as follows: When wearing DC rather than UDC, mean body temperature, heart rate, heat storage and body mass loss were significantly lower during the whole experimental period. Clothing microclimate temperature showed different profiles between the two clothing materials, being lower with DC than UDC during the first half of exercise and the second half of recovery. Clothing microclimate humidity was significantly lower with DC than UDC during the whole experimental period. When wearing UDC, subjects felt significantly warmer and less comfortable during exercise, and sensed greater humidity during exercise and recovery. These results suggest that eco-friendly clothing materials dyed with astringent persimmon extract can reduce exercise-induced heat load and improve subjective sensations when exercising and resting in a warm environment, due to greater heat dissipation from the body to the outside environment compared with undyed clothing materials.