• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.15-29
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• 2015

Apart from keeping the body pleasant and protecting it from the environment, the purpose of clothing is to express one's sensibility, sense of belonging, status, and aesthetic sense. In the past, hanbok was also used to express status and class with the colors and the types and according to the times, the forms of hanbok has changed. Nowadays, people choose and wear hanbok that suits their tastes or purposes and various types of hanbok that considered pros and cons of it are now disseminated. Given this reality, traditional shrouds that are worn by the dead should also be designed newly to fit the modern trend. This research aims to analyze how people's sensibility preferences change on the traditional shrouds and the modern shrouds that are designed to fit the current trend. To see the change, this research analyzes sensibility preferences by using Semantic Differential Method on 4 modern shrouds that are used in preceding research and 1 traditional shroud. The survey was answered by total of 130 ordinary people in groups of 26 people in 5 groups who reside in Seoul and Kyungkhi province. As the result of the analysis, firstly, people preferred "high quality", "elegant", and "Korean" sensibility words for modern shrouds 1, 2, 3, and 4. Secondly, on traditional shroud, "uncomfortable", "neutral-elegant", "neutral-Korean", and "neutral-quality" that is closer to low quality sensibility words are preferred. Thirdly, "modest" and "extravagant" did not show any statistically significant difference. I hope this research can provide basic data that can be used to understand and comprehend on people's sensibility preference about shroud designs.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.109-121
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• 2013

Modern Hanbok uses newly different color coordination based on traditional color coordination and symbolic meaning. Thus, this study would investigate the aspects of color coordination and symbolic meaning and present the characteristics of Hanbok as the data of corresponding period in the modern times. In order to investigate recent trend of preferred colors and color coordination of Hanbok, this study focused on the period of 2005~2010. When analyzing colors of Jegori(jacket), Wh, Y, B, YG, P and Gy series are shown in order. For trends for color of Chima(skirt), Pk, R, P, Gy and Bk series are shown in order. When you look into the color coordination of skirt and jacket on whole, color coordination of Pk-Wh represents the highest frequency. Color coordinations of Pk-Y, Pk-B, R-Y, R-G and Pk-G are followed in order. Color coordinations of R-YG, Bk-Wh, O-Y, P-Wh, Pk-YG, Gy-Y, R-Wh series and Gy-Wh are followed in order. When looking into characteristics of overall color coordination of Hanbok, it was shown that there were many opportunities to meet a variety of culture and various colors had emerged depending on individual taste and skin color in the modern times within the framework of basic colors of woman's 'Nokeuihongsang'(Green upper garment and red skirt) R-G, Y series, which are traditionally inherited. In addition, unlike existing traditional color coordination of five elements in the past, P, Gy and Bk series of color appeared in the skirt and Jacket. It could be affected by fashionable drama and films at that time and newly attempted colors ahead of fashion were reflected on the magazine. Therefore, it implied that it naturally gave new awareness of colors to the general public and the width of selection of colors became diverse.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.5 s.142
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• pp.692-702
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to explore global consumer behavior with fashion products, Korean fashion products, and Korean traditional fashion products (i.e., Han-Bok). Clothing selection criteria for fashion products and Korean fashion products were included as major constructs far the comparison among global consumers based on their nationality. Other consumer behavior variables were shopping place, buying frequency, purchase experience/plan, preferred brand, purchase items, information source, purchasing usage, and the product evaluation of Hanbok. A convenience sample of 236 global consumers was selected for this study. A questionnaire was pilot tested, and the revised questionnaire was used for the interview survey. Descriptive statistics and ANOVA were used for data analysis. Various nationality were existed such as Europe, North America, Japan, China, South East Asia. The results indicated that the most important criteria for fashion buying were design, fit, and size in order. Fit, size, and color item from buying criteria were significantly different among global consumers by nationality. Country of origin was found as less important factor among global consumers. Department store was most favorable shopping place, and once a month is the most mentioned category in buying frequency. Preferred brands were Levi's, Polo, Gucci, and Prada, etc. Secondly, regarding the evaluation of Korean fashion products, textile quality was highly evaluated. Significant difference except design/style category were existed among global consumers by nationality. Thirdly, regarding the evaluation of Hanbok, the product evaluation of Hanbok highly represented as special event clothing, unique image, beautiful details and oriental beauty in order. Significant difference in good quality of textiles, oriental beauty, coordination with good colors and fabrics, beautiful details and unique style and design were existed among global consumers by nationality. Managerial implications were discussed.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.80-91
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• 2017

This study identifies factors of Hanbok-trippers - a term for people who dress in Hanbok(Korean traditional costume) while going on a trip - who converge on Gyeongbokgung Palace by determining the characteristics of class, places to visit and preferred places. This study interprets the voluntary hobby activities of Hanbok-trippers from a viewpoint of a landscape prosumer and the meaning of the urban landscape. As a result of in-depth interviews, on-site survey, and observation surveys focused on Hanbok-trippers, there were various levels of participants. They are classified into three groups - leading group, entry group, temporary-experience group - according to their cognitions, types of Hanbok use, activities, etc. The leading group and entry group are a voluntary hobbyist class due to the ongoing tendencies of their participation. There are differences in the purpose and factors of visiting Gyeongbokgung Palace as a place for a Hanbok-trip. The leading group visited Gyeongbokgung Palace for cultural activities, regular get-together, public relations, and as a gathering place to go neighboring destinations. In this case, the main factors of the visit are the traditional landscape, convenient transportation, chances for traditional culture exhibitions and events in Gyeongbokgung Palace and its neighborhood. The entry group visits Gyeongbokgung Palace because of its traditional landscape and cultural activities nearby. The traditional landscape and many Hanbok-trippers are main factors of visiting Gyeongbokgung Palace for the Temporary-experience group. This study found that Gyeongbokgung Palace has a new sense of place of 'Introductory course of Hanbok-trip', 'Hanbok Playground' because temporary-experience group visits there to experience a Hanbok-trip for the first time. Hanbok-trippers consume places and landscape in actual places offline, producing a new landscape at the same time, and has the characteristics of a 'landscape prosumer' by producing landscape images online through their own personal or social media. Their colorful and voluntary movements contribute to the dynamism of the urban landscape and can become a new cultural asset for the city. The voluntary hobbyist class can be considered a new type of participants in bottom-up planning such as urban regeneration and place marketing. This study has significance in that it conceptualized the 'landscape prosumer' through the voluntary hobbyist class of Hanbok-trippers with the concept of the 'prosumer' that has been studied only in the consumer studies and marketing fields, and has identified the significance of the urban landscape.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.2
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• pp.59-69
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• 2009

This study aims to identify how Korean women's traditional costume, Hanbok, has changed according to the times in terms of color coordination of Jeogori and Chima. Photos had been taken at wedding places and streets at 5 major cities(Seoul, Pusan, Kwangju, Daejon, Jeju) at two weekends of each season in 1999, 2001, and 2003. Total 1617 photos were used as final data. Data were analyzed by hue coordination and value level. Hue coordination exist in one-color and two-color coordination. In one-color coordination, red color(R & RP) was the most frequently used and blue green(BG) was the next, and the least was blue purple(BP) for each year. In value scale, high level was the most frequent and followed by middle level and low level. Pink was the most preferred color for one-color coordination. In two-color coordination, white and blue were widely used for Jeogori and red and blue far chima for each year, which seemed to be the basic color coordination for Jeogori and Chima. While there was a certain basic color coordination types across year, but a few new color coordination appeared each year and maintained as popular color coordination for one or two year.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.6
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• pp.127-139
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• 2013

This research is designed to provide basic data to study the life and culture of multicultural families in Korea by taking a look at the clothing behaviors and attitudes toward traditional dresses. To this end, quantitative research was conducted on Korea-Vietnam multicultural families and Korean families. The surveys of the Korean families were completed by 250 married women in Seoul, and those of Korea-Vietnam multicultural families by 104 married Vietnamese women living in Seoul, Gyeonggi-do and Incheon. The data were analyzed using frequency analysis, factor analysis, t-test, crosstabs and ${\chi}^2$-test. The findings are as follows: First, the comparison of clothing behaviors of the Korean families and the Korea-Vietnam multicultural families found that they had statistically significant differences in values towards clothes, clothes shopping orientation and clothes purchasing behaviors. The Korean women were more involved in clothes and fashion-oriented than their Vietnamese counterparts. However, the Vietnamese women in their 20s were likely to rely more on social trends than their own needs when purchasing clothes compared to their Korean counterparts. Korean families preferred to shop in department stores, while the multicultural families relied more on discount stores and outlets. Second, the comparison of the Korean families and the Korea-Vietnam families in attitudes toward their own traditional dresses and how often to wear them showed statistically meaningful differences. The Korean group had more negative attitudes toward Hanbok, the Korean traditional dresses than the Vietnamese group. The Vietnamese women showed more interest in information on Hanbok than their Korean counterparts. They also were wearing the Korean traditional dresses more often than the Korean families. In addition, the Vietnamese women showed a stronger tendency than the Korean women that they took pride in their country's traditional dresses and believed that they were beautiful.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.25-33
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• 2001

This study is to analyze Korean-Chinese women's Costume in Yabian with factors such as reform opening-up, economic growth, change of social values, development of technology, more education opportunities and influence of mass media. It divides the 1990's into two halves. Photos, interview, observation and relevant literature were used for this study. Even though economy grew rapidly, they needed to purchase daily goods other than clothes. In a way that they preferred practicality, it showed somewhat it was still developing. The trend in the first half of the 1990's was characterized : first, Synthetic or artificial fibers and ready-made suits were popular ; second, there still remained the men's style ; third, they wore Tanrikoo(彈力袴), Tisingkoo(體型袴), Jiaotakoo(脚袴) because of its properties of activeness and comfort ; fourth, shoulders looked ore prominent with pads as they were used in Chungsanfoo(中山服) ; fifth, clothes in grey and dark blue was in fashion ; sixth, they wore hand-made knit vests and sweaters and often mountain-climbing gears for its light and warm quality ; seventh, along with opening-up, various materials and colorful clothes were in style, which satisfied women's desire for beauty. They decorated Hanbok(韓服), using sleeves with colors, golden ornaments, flower patterns embroidery, materials of different color in collar and tie and dyes of sleeves and skirts. In the first half of the 1990's when the opening-up was beginning, there were diverse styles and colors in fashion, yet not close to good quality. As the economy grew, the second half of the 1990's was characterized by good palate, individuality, favouritism on foreign goods, rapid change of fashion. For instance, fur coat and woolen fabric were favored. Economic growth led to abundance of cloth, dyes and decorative materials. In addition, people possessed more clothing and it was possible for them to wear both Hanbok and wedding dress in wedding ceremony. People placed their standards on competency and financial ability rather than ideology. Worship disappeared and individuality arose. Therefore, apparel functioned not only as protection but as suits with aesthetic purpose. This resulted in introduction of bold style, imitation of western countries and extension of use of Hanbok. With the help of mass media, transportation, telecommunication, contact with Korean company and civilians, Korean and western cultures, through Korea, were accepted. Change in structure of economic status caused excessive spending and more educational opportunities that enabled people to accept foreign culture quickly. Values moved onto new, beautiful and better characteristics. it was possible to have suits ready-made due to improvement of mass production and cotten, wool, linen, silk became popular owing to technology. New technology, the bases of mass consumption, increased possession of clothing and accelerated change of fashion. In summary, women's Costume in Yanbian were affected by the factors in economy, politics, culture contact as well as change of society and technology.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.1191-1204
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• 2014

Even though a Han-bok, or traditional Korean costume, should be inherited since it is invaluable part of our culture, research on Han-bok is scarce. Since the development of a Jeogori pattern, the upper garment of Korean traditional clothes, is done mostly based on the chest size, the design does not completely consider on wearer's body shape. Moreover, unless made by an expert, trial and error is almost always necessary to improve the fit of the clothes. In this research, a Jeogori pattern was suggested that improves the fit based on the shape of the upper back(straight or bent) of a female in her late 20s who often wears a Han-bok and is comfortable when moving. Using a 3D virtual clothing system, the optimum pattern was selected based on the body shape. The final selection was made, and each subjects tried the garment on to evaluate the comfort when moving, along with its appearance, based on a seven point Likert scale. As a result, for a straight body shape, the optimum ease for the front bust width was 2.5cm, and that for the back bust width was 2.0cm. The optimum center back dart was 1.0cm. The optimum Geodae width was 7.6cm, and the optimum back Geodae point was 2.0cm. For the bent body shape, the optimum ease for the front and back bust was 2.0cm. The optimum Geodae width was 8.4cm, and the optimum back Geodae point was 1.5cm. Furthermore, if the Hwajang slope was set at half of the vertical distance between the laterals of the neck and shoulder, a fitted silhouette appeared, which is preferred nowadays. In the appearance evaluation, the final pattern designed in this research received higher scores than the original design(straight; p<.001, bent; p<.05). The results of the evaluation of the comfort when moving also showed higher scores for the final pattern that was designed.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.167-179
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• 2005

Skirts hold an important position in dress culture among various dress forms, being worn by more than half of mu. In this study, Chima is defined as garment for lower part of the body without crotch sewing, contrasting with trousers. The authors classify and compare the formation of the skirts of minority races in Yunnan area, based on Korean Chima, understanding the forms of skirts and examining the composition, color, pattern and material. For the study, the authors investigated 57 pieces of skirts among 341 pieces of minority races dresses from Yunn Nationality Museum collection exhibited at Korea Folk Village in May 2003, and referred to customs materials and photos in various literatures. Skirts in Yunnan area are divided into 6 areas, that is, seamless one-piece skirt area, wrapskirt area and mixed type skirt area. Skirt formation factors from the effect of environment such as climate, lifestyle and means of production were studied, and characteristics, differences and similarities were reviewed. Figure of skirts are studied by compostion, color, material, and technique. By composition, they can be classified based on the similarity to Hanbok (traditional Korean dress). By color, worshipped color and preferred color vary by races and by area. Materials vary in kinds and thickness by area with various climate. By technique, national characteristic patterns are inherited through national traditional dyeing and embroidery. It is not easy to conclude based on single item of skirt, but we suggest that national dresses have been settled through the mutual supplements between the effect of social and cultural exchange such as historical inheritance, geological environment, religion and production activity and the various forms of skirts from changes in shape, color, material and wearing form of dresses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.8
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• pp.1252-1261
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to grasp the utilization of traditional Korean Patterns used for fashion cultural products. To achieve this purpose, this study examined the range of fashion cultural products through literature review, previous researches, and market surveys and analyzed the situation of fashion cultural products and the kinds, expression methods, expression techniques, and repeat styles of utilized patterns. The analysis results are as follows. First, in the use of traditional pattern, the most frequently-used fashion cultural products were small and inexpensive accessories, followed by fashion apparel, miscellaneous goods, and living cultural goods. Second, the most frequently-used traditional patterns were plant patterns, especially flower patterns. The next frequently-used ones were mixed patterns, especially in the mixture of flower and letter patterns, and $cloisonn\'{e}$ and flower patterns. The next frequently-used traditional patterns were animal patterns(especially butterfly patterns), followed by geometric patterns, lucky omen patterns, and letter patterns. In the expression methods of used patterns, most products except handicrafts preferred simplified patterns to real patterns. Finally, in the expression techniques of traditional patterns, the most frequently used technique was traditional embroidery, followed by the use of weaving fabrics such as fine gauze and brocade which are used for Hanbok. Also, transfer dyeing which is one of printing techniques, DTP(digital textiles printing), a mixed technique which adds embroidery to weaving fabrics, hand-painting, and a gilt technique were used. The results of this study suggest that most fashion cultural products except few designers' works attached weight to some specified patterns and expression techniques regardless of the characteristics of products since there is little understanding of a variety of patterns and are few researches and development on expression techniques.