• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 1988.07a
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• pp.18-28
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• 1988

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.335-344
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• 2011

A curvilinear non-hydrostatic free surface model is developed to investigate nonlinear wave interactions in a circular channel. The proposed model solves the unsteady Navier-Stokes equations in a three-dimensional domain with a pressure correction method, which is one of fractional step methods. A hybrid staggered-grid layout in the vertical direction is implemented, which renders relatively simple resulting pressure equation as well as free surface closure. Numerical accuracy with respect to wave nonlinearity is tested against the fifth-order Stokes solution in a two-dimensional numerical wave tank. Numerical applications center on the evolution of nonlinear waves including diffraction and reflection affected by the curvature of side wall in a circular channel comparing with linear waves. Except for a highly nonlinear bichrmatic wave, the model's results are in good agreement with superimposed analytical solution that neglects nonlinear effects. Through the numerical simulation of the highly nonlinear bichramatic wave, the model shows its capability to investigate the evolution of nonlinear wave groups in a circular channel.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.484-491
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• 2007

Numerical experiments using a numerical wave tank have been performed to verier the nonlinear interaction between monochromatic waves and a submerged horizontal plate. As a model for numerical wave tank, we used a higher-order Boundary Element Method(BEM) based on fully nonlinear potential flow theory and CADMAS-SURF for solving Navier Stokes equations and exact free surface conditions. Both nonlinear models are able to predict the higher harmonic generation in the shallow water region over a submerged horizontal plate. CADMAS-SURF, which involves the viscous effect, can evaluate the higher harmonic generation by flow separation and vortices at the each ends of plate. The comparison of reflection and transmission coefficients with experimental results(Patarapanich and Cheong, 1989) at different lengths and submergence depths of a horizontal plate are presented with a good agreement. It is found that the transfer of energy from the incident fundamental waves to higher harmonics becomes larger as the submergence depth ratio decreases and the length ratio increases.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.51-57
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• 1990

Based on second-order Stokes wave and parabolic approximation, a refraction-diffraction model for linear and nonlinear waves is developed. With the assumption that the water depth is slowly varying, the model equation describes the forward scattered wavefield. The parabolic approximation equations account for the combined effects of refraction and diffraction, while the influences of bottom friction, current and wind have been neglected. The model is tested against laboratory experiments for the case of submerged circular shoal, when both refraction and diffraction are equally significant. Based on Boussinesq equations, the parabolic approximation eq. is applied to the propagation of shallow water waves. In the case without currents, the forward diffraction of Cnoidal waves by a straight breakwater is studied numerically. The formation of stem waves along the breakwater and the relation between the stem waves and the incident wave characteristics are discussed. Numerical experiments are carried out using different bottom slopes and different angles of incidence.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.223-234
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• 1998

Recently, the interests of the construction of the permeable submerged breakwaters have been increased to preserve and to improve the coastal environment, and to control the incident waves and littoral transport. It is very important to predict the wave transformation precisely over the permeable submerged breakwaters. This study discusses nonlinear wave transformation and characteristics by using BEM based on the frequency domain method of the 3rd-order Stokes waves. The Dupuit-Forchheimer formula is applied to the analysis of the fluid resistance of rubble stones, and the equation about equivalent linear frictional coefficient is newly modified based on the Lorentz's condition for the equivalent work. The numerical results are compared with the experimental ones for verification. These two results give a close agreement each other. It is confirmed that the present method of the 3rd-order Stokes waves estimates more precisely than that of the 2nd-order Stokes waves.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.27-38
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• 1995

In this paper, a program for the calculation of GZ curve for a ship in waves is developed and GZ curves for a ferry in the still water and in waves are calculated. And the added mass, damping, restoring forces and wave exciting forces are calculated by using the strip theory given by Salvesen, Tuck, Faltinsen. Capsizing simulations are perfoned in consideration if the nonlinear restoring forces of the ship in waves by using the Runge-Kutta 4-th method.

• Journal of Ship and Ocean Technology
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.61-69
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• 2004

Unsteady nonlinear wave motions on the free surface over a plane beach of constant slope are numerically simulated using a finite difference method in rectangular grid system. Two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the continuity equation are used for the computations. Irregular leg lengths and stars are employed near the boundaries of body and free surface to satisfy the boundary conditions. Also, the free surface which consists of markers or segments is determined every time step with the satisfaction of kinematic and dynamic free surface conditions. Moreover, marker-density method is also adopted to allow plunging jets impinging on the free surface. The second-order Stokes wave theory is employed for the generation of waves on the inflow boundary. For the simulation of wave breaking phenomena, the computations are carried out with the plane beach of constant slope in surf zone. The results are compared with other existing experimental results. Agreement between the experimental data and the computation results is good.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.49-57
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• 2023

Since Chappelear developed a Fourier approximation method, considerable research efforts have been made. On the other hand, Fourier approximations are unsuitable for deep water waves. The purpose of this study is to provide a Fourier approximation suitable even for deep water waves and a numerical method to determine the Fourier coefficients and the wave properties. In addition, the convergence of the solution was tested in terms of its order. This paper presents a velocity potential satisfying the Laplace equation and the bottom boundary condition (BBC) with a truncated Fourier series. Two wave profiles were derived by applying the potential to the kinematic free surface boundary condition (KFSBC) and the dynamic free surface boundary condition (DFSBC). A set of nonlinear equations was represented to determine the Fourier coefficients, which were derived so that the two profiles are identical at specified phases. The set of equations was solved using Newton's method. This study proved that there is a limit to the series order, i.e., the maximum series order is N=12, and that there is a height limitation of this method which is slightly lower than the Michell theory. The reason why the other Fourier approximations are not suitable for deep water waves is discussed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.369-381
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• 2017

It has been presumed that highly nonlinear skewed waves frequently observed in a surf zone could significantly influence the transmission behaviour via a porous wave breaker due to its larger inertia force than its nonlinear counterparts of zero skewness [Cnoidal waves]. In this study, in order to confirm this perception, a numerical simulation has been implemented for 6 waves the skewness of that range from 1.02 to 1.032. A numerical simulation are based on the Tool Box called as the ihFoam that has its roots on the OpenFoam. Skewed waves are guided by the shoal of 1:30 slope, and the flow in the porous media are analyzed by adding the additional damping term into the RANS (Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes equation). Numerical results show that the highly nonlinear skewed waves are of higher transmitted ratio than its counterparts due to its stronger inertia force. In this study, in order to see whether or not the damping at the porous structure has an effect on the wave celerity, we also derived the dispersive relationships of Nonlinear Shallow Water Eq. [NSW] with damping at the porous structure being accounted. The newly derived dispersive relationships shows that the phase lag between the damping friction and the free surface elevation due to waves significantly influence the wave celerity.

• Journal of Advanced Research in Ocean Engineering
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 2016

The objective of this paper is to present an analytical solution in deep water waves and verify the validity of the theory (Shin, 2015). Hence this is a follow-up to Shin (2015). Instead of a variational approach, another approach was considered for a more accurate assessment in this study. The products of two coefficients were not neglected in this study. The two wave profiles from the KFSBC and DFSBC were evaluated at N discrete points on the free-surface, and the combination coefficients were determined for when the two curves pass the discrete points. Thus, the solution satisfies the differential equation (DE), bottom boundary condition (BBC), and the kinematic free surface boundary condition (KFSBC) exactly. The error in the dynamic free surface boundary condition (DFSBC) is less than 0.003%. The wave theory was simplified based on the assumption tanh $D{\approx}1$ in this paper. Unlike the perturbation method, the results are possible for steep waves and can be calculated without iteration. The result is very simple compared to the 5th Stokes' theory. Stokes' breaking-wave criterion has been checked in this study.