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A Numerical Solution. Method for Two-dimensional Nonlinear Water Waves on a Plane Beach of Constant Slope  

Lee, Young-Gill (Dept. of Naval Architecture and Ocean Eng., Inha Univ.)
Heo, Jae-Kyung (Ship Research Institute, Hanjin Heavy Industries Co., Ltd)
Jeong, Kwang-Leol (Dept. of Naval Architecture and Ocean Eng., Inha Univ)
Kim, Kang-Sin (Dept. of Naval Architecture and Ocean Eng., Inha Univ.)
Publication Information
Journal of Ship and Ocean Technology / v.8, no.2, 2004 , pp. 61-69 More about this Journal
Abstract
Unsteady nonlinear wave motions on the free surface over a plane beach of constant slope are numerically simulated using a finite difference method in rectangular grid system. Two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the continuity equation are used for the computations. Irregular leg lengths and stars are employed near the boundaries of body and free surface to satisfy the boundary conditions. Also, the free surface which consists of markers or segments is determined every time step with the satisfaction of kinematic and dynamic free surface conditions. Moreover, marker-density method is also adopted to allow plunging jets impinging on the free surface. The second-order Stokes wave theory is employed for the generation of waves on the inflow boundary. For the simulation of wave breaking phenomena, the computations are carried out with the plane beach of constant slope in surf zone. The results are compared with other existing experimental results. Agreement between the experimental data and the computation results is good.
Keywords
free surface; finite difference method; plane beach; nonlinear water waves; marker-density;
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