• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.52-71
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• 2020

This study examines the color characteristics of the usage of the color pink in menswear by analyzing its usage status and method. It involves an empirical research method establishing the frame of the study through a document study centered on trend, gender neutral considerations, and the utilization of the color pink in men's fashion, by analyzing the characteristics of color and tone by extracting the pink color shown in menswear collections as well as analyzing and categorizing the fashion image and genderless characteristics. Analyzing the color and tone of the pink color shown indicate that bright, light and pale tones had higher proportions. Pink color can also be said to be utilized as a design element that gives off a younger and more vital color image in menswear. Further, the use of brighter and softer pink colors can be interpreted as reflecting modern society's demands of masculinity to change into a more sophisticated and soft image. To analyze the characteristics of the color pink utilized in gender neutral fashion, fashion images were presented as the analysis standard. An image grouping technique was used to classify pink while utilizing genderless types-fashion style. The result showed that even with the same pink color, the fashion image can vary with different methods of expression in terms of clothes and styling. The results of this study can serve as basic data for planning fashion design concepts as it analyzed pink-using fashion images and the genderless concept type.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.2
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• pp.353-364
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• 2016

This study analyzes French designer Hedi Slimane who has received recent attention from the fashion world. He changed sub-culture 'Rock Fashion' into high fashion and altered the stereotype of the existing menswear with the skinny look. His extreme slim-fit style also has changed the menswear market dramatically. Hedi Slimane was mainly inspired by various rock music genres from the 1960 to 2000s such as glam rock, psychedelic rock, grunge rock, and garage rock. He showed in his own rock style when creating his collection. The collections inspired from the specific rock music and style were selected from Dior Homme (2001F/W-2007F/W) and Saint-Laurent (2013F/W-2015F/W), and analyzed by the 4 genres of rock music and fashion style as follows. First, glam rock style appeared in Dior Homme 2005F/W and Saint Laurent 2014S/S with glamorous full make-up, animal printings, and glitter textures. Second, psychedelic rock style appeared in Saint Laurent 2015S/S with flower patterns, afro hair, fur vests, and western & ethnic bohemian styling. Third, grunge rock style appeared at Dior Homme 2005S/S and Saint Laurent 2013F/W with messedup hair, destroyed jeans, and layering style. Fourth, garage rock style appeared mainly at Dior Homme 2006 S/S with messed-up hair, slim suit, fedora, and sneakers. This result is expected to be used for research and development on modern rock style for contemporary menswear.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.166-180
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• 2020

This oral history study explores the past and present Japanese menswear custom-tailoring culture. Two master tailors with more than 50 years of experience and two young tailors with less than a year of experience were interviewed about the tailor training process and environment, working conditions, thinking and behavior, and societal and governmental efforts for vitalizing custom-tailoring. The results indicate, first, a 10-year apprenticeship was required in the past, whereas young tailors today must register for three-year professional tailoring classes. Tailors then and now have been trained in a similar sequence of pants, vests, and jackets. Second, regarding working conditions, tailors had to provide gratitude services to their masters for a few years, even after their training ended. In contrast, young tailors today must continue a probationary period after their three-year schooling; however, they experience difficulty with finding tailoring shops for their probation. Third, in terms of thinking and behavior, master tailors learned their trade to earn a living, whereas young tailors today entered the field due to their interests in it. In addition, young tailors want a systematic learning process, whereas master tailors learned their skills while on the job. Last, tailoring academies today are run by tailoring shops and societies. Career exploration programs are offered to elementary and middle school students by the Kobe government in association with the local tailoring society to provide tailoring experiences.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.75-95
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• 2023

This study aims to investigate the color characteristics and utilization of Amekaji fashion in the domestic casual market, with a focus on menswear. A total of 1,882 color data were extracted from 11 representative brands of Amekaji. This results of the study showed that PB, Bk, YR, and Y colors were highly utilized in the overall color, and dkg, g, ltg, and p tones were highly utilized. In particular, R color was highly utilized in the point color, as it was developed into six tones, including v, with high saturation. The analysis by the brand showed that the highest number of colors were extracted from 'Kapital', which is famous for its vintage-style patchwork and dyeing, and that 'PB' and 'Bk' were heavily utilized. By the item, PB colors were mainly utilized for denim, and shirts were diversified with 9 tones. W, a neutral color, was mainly used on clothing tops such as shirts, knits, and T-shirts. This study provides valuable insights into the color sensitivity of Amekaji fashion, which can be used as a useful resource for design development and product planning in the industry. As a future study, we suggest analysis of the utilization of Amekaji colors in the Korean men's casual market along with American and Japanese brands.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.626-638
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• 2018

Recent perspectives on masculinity have changed and are expressed as a genderless style in fashion. Male models wearing womenswear are frequently presented in menswear collections. This study analyzes the genderless men's styles from the Heterotopia concept viewpoint. Heterotopia, coined by the post-modern philosopher Michel Foucault, is a space that deviates from normality and a space of alternative. The research methodology is combined with a literature study and case study. Contemporary men's genderless styles examined through the Heterotopia concept are categorized as transition, deviation, contradiction, crisis, and coexistence. Genderless phenomenon are also accelerated by the development of the media as well as the younger generation who express personality and social messages through a genderless style.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.92-102
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• 2011

The purpose of this research is to study the types of name spectrum and their characteristics of domestic men's wear brands focusing on formal and casual wear and also examine the differences based on the type of brands' product and brand style. Total 184 of men's wear brands, which were consisted of 66 formal wear brands and 84 casual wear brands, were selected from '2009 Korea Fashion Yearbook'. For data analysis, quantitatively evaluated the frequency and qualitatively evaluated the image of brand product and the meaning of brand name. The result as follows; 1. The domestic fashion brands for men's wear appeared to have four types of name spectrum. The descriptive name was the most frequently showed, and followed by arbitrary, suggestive, and coined name. For formal wear brands, four types of name spectrum were appeared in the order of descriptive, suggestive, coined, and arbitrary name. In casual wear brands, three types of name spectrum were appeared in the order of descriptive, arbitrary, and suggestive name. 2. The characteristics of men's brand name according to their name spectrum was as follows.; In the descriptive brand names, person's name was used the most and some ascribed the characteristics, feature or geographic location of the product. The suggestive brand names contained images and symbols of the product and also implied the relevant benefit information in a particular product context. In the arbitrary brand name, they imply the various meanings according to the product and are made up of either coined or natural. For the coined name, some bear the ideology or symbolized the characteristics of product itself. 3. The descriptive name spectrum showed the most in domestic menswear brands, regardless of the brand type. Except this, there were differences in the type and the frequency of name spectrum depending on the brand type.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.12
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• pp.1454-1465
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• 2011

Menswear body types are often labeled on garments (to indicate how the garments are designed to fit) with indicators of a size category such as regular, portly, and stout, athletic, or big and tall. A drop (relationships between the chest and waist girths) is related to the fit of a tailored suit. However, current standards are not designed for various drops or body types. There is not enough information of categorizing men's body shapes for the apparel sizing systems. In this article, a set of men's data from SizeUSA sizing survey was analyzed to investigate men's body shapes and drops. Factor analysis and a cluster analysis method were used to categorize men's body shapes. In the results, twenty-five variables were selected through the factor analysis and found four factors: girth factor, height factor, torso girth factor, and slope degree factor. According to the factor and cluster analysis, various body shapes were found: Slim Shape (SS - tall ectomorphy), Heavy Shape (HS - athletic, big & tall, endomorphy and mesomorphy), Slant Inverted Triangle Shape (SITS - regular, slight ectomorphy and slight mesomorphy weight range from normal to slightly overweight), Short Round Top Shape (SRTS - portly and stout, endomorphy). Body shapes were related to fitting categories. SS and HS were related to big & tall fitting category. SITS was related to regular. SRTS was related to portly and stout. Shape 1 (31%) and Shape 2 (26%) were related to current big & tall category. Shape 3 (34%) were related to regular. Shape 4 (9%) were in portly and stout category. ASTM D 6240 standard was the only available standard that presented a regular fitting category. Various drops were found within a same chest size group; however, this study revealed great variances of drops by body shape.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.16-38
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to develop a fashion design with a greater sense of modernism based on the characteristics and design elements of Myanmar traditional clothing focusing on the Yandanapon Mandalay period of the last dynasty of Myanmar using the SCAMPER technique, which is one of the creative methodologies. Contemporary menswear fashion designs were developed based on the individual elements of the questionnaire on the SCAMPER technique using fashion design elements. The design development process was as follows. First, this study set the developmental theme of contemporary menswear fashion design in Myanmar's traditional clothing style during the Yadanapon Mandalay period. Second, to develop designs using the SCAMPER technique, the elements of Myanmar's traditional clothing were first divided into item composition and design elements, followed by application of the SCAMPER questionnaire. Also, various designs were developed by combining and applying different elements. Third, optionally selective elements evolved from the design development process using the SCAMPER technique questionnaire. Fourth, the design evaluation was used to select the designs matching the study purpose out of 55 design sketches via FGI (Focus Group Interview) consisting of four fashion designers. Fifth, a total of six designs were selected by additional design modification. Based on the aforementioned processes, a total of six works of men's clothing design were presented. This study provides basic data for the cultural and aesthetic understanding of traditional Myanmar clothing. It also serves as a source of new ideas to express modern fashion design in different ways.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.1007-1019
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of achromatic shirt and chromatic tie combination on image of menswear. This experiment was designed by shirt color(N9, N7, N4, N2), tie color(red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple), tie tone(vivid, light, dull, dark), and perceiver gender(a male, a female). The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of stimulus and response scales. The stimuli were 96 upper body photographs and 26 7-point bi-polar adjectives were used to evaluate the image. The subjects of this research were 480 male and 480 female college students. The data was analyzed by using SPSS program. Analysis methods were four-way ANOVA. The items of the adjectives were classified into 4 image factor: potency, activity, attractiveness, and visibility. Shirt color, tie color, tie tone influenced on the 4 image dimension greatly by interaction as well as independently. Dull or dark tone tie had an effect on the formation of potency image. And white color shirt, vivid or light tone tie had an effect on the formation of activity image. White or black shirt had a positive effect on attractiveness, and black shirt or vivid tone tie was effective for visible image.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.74-87
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• 2012

Many fashion designers were inspired by arts. Not only arts itself but also the sprit of the artist links with fashion. This study based on French artist Yves Klein who died in 1962, at the age of 34. Klein created over a thounsand works in only seven years. Among the his various art collections, it is focused on Yves Peintures, I.K.B(International Klein Blue) and Sponge sculpture. The extracted some of core concepts including aesthetic of Klein about color and line, space perception in monochrome and expansion of monochrome toward three dimensional sponge sculptures were transformed into fashion design. As a result, Yves Sweats project, which is T-shirts project based on Yves Peintures, designed as a three-dimentional expansion of Monochrome and it was shown at Fall/Winter 2011-12 Tranoi homme trade show in Paris. Also Yves Klein collection was designed as a ready-to-wear menswear collection that was presented at Fall/Winter 2011-12 Seoul Fashion Week.