Browse > Article
http://dx.doi.org/10.29049/rjcc.2020.28.2.166

Oral history study on Japanese menswear custom-tailoring culture  

Lee, Yhe-Young (Dept. of Home Economics Education, Korea University)
Yoo, Yung-Hyun (Dept. of Human Ecology, Graduate School, Korea University)
Publication Information
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture / v.28, no.2, 2020 , pp. 166-180 More about this Journal
Abstract
This oral history study explores the past and present Japanese menswear custom-tailoring culture. Two master tailors with more than 50 years of experience and two young tailors with less than a year of experience were interviewed about the tailor training process and environment, working conditions, thinking and behavior, and societal and governmental efforts for vitalizing custom-tailoring. The results indicate, first, a 10-year apprenticeship was required in the past, whereas young tailors today must register for three-year professional tailoring classes. Tailors then and now have been trained in a similar sequence of pants, vests, and jackets. Second, regarding working conditions, tailors had to provide gratitude services to their masters for a few years, even after their training ended. In contrast, young tailors today must continue a probationary period after their three-year schooling; however, they experience difficulty with finding tailoring shops for their probation. Third, in terms of thinking and behavior, master tailors learned their trade to earn a living, whereas young tailors today entered the field due to their interests in it. In addition, young tailors want a systematic learning process, whereas master tailors learned their skills while on the job. Last, tailoring academies today are run by tailoring shops and societies. Career exploration programs are offered to elementary and middle school students by the Kobe government in association with the local tailoring society to provide tailoring experiences.
Keywords
tailoring; tailor; custom menswear; Japan;
Citations & Related Records
연도 인용수 순위
  • Reference
1 Chang, W. S. (2015). The master craftsperson. Seoul: Hakjisa.
2 Craig, A. (2018, June 6). Defining Japanese tailoring: A few of our favorite labels. Grailed, Retrieved March 15, 2020, from https://www.grailed.com/drycleanonly/japanese-tailoring-labels
3 Crompton, S. (2016). Japanese tailors: Anglofilo, Sartoria Domenica, Vick Tailor and Pecora Ginza. Permanent Style, Retrieved March 15, 2020, from https://www.permanentstyle.com/2016/10/japanesetailors-anglofilo-sartoria-domenica-vick-tailor-andpecora-ginza.html
4 Francks, P. (2009). The Japanese consumer: An alternative economic history of modern Japan. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge Press.
5 Hong, K. (2006, March 14). 3000만 원짜리 '맞춤정장' 집에서? [Thirty-thousand won 'bespoke suit' at home?]. Money Today, Retrieved March 23, 2013, from https://news.v.daum.net/v/20060314094712361?f=o
6 Izuch, M. (2004). 일본여성복식사 [History of Japanese women's dress] (J. Lee Trans.). Seoul: Kyungchunsa. (Original work published 1996)
7 Japanese Western Clothes Newspaper. (Ed.) (1988). 내일의 양복점 [Tomorrow's tailor shop] (Mirinae Editorial Department, Trans.). Seoul: Mirinae. (Original work published 1977)
8 Kim, E.-S. (2000). A study on the development of man's western mode suits in Korea. Unpublished master's thesis, Wonkwang University, Iksan, Korea.
9 Kim, M. (2017, November 3). 한국명품남성복, 명장에게 답을 구하다 [Korean luxury menswear, finding answers from master tailors]. Weekly People, Retrieved May 23, 2018, from http://weeklypeople.co.kr
10 Kim, S. H. (2008). A study on Korean menswear market condition and style formation technology trends. Unpublished master's thesis, Sukmyung Women's University, Seoul, Korea.
11 Kitamura, T. (1999). 일본복식사 [History of Japanese dress] (J. Lee, Trans.). Seoul: Kyungchunsa. (Original work published 1978)
12 Koike, M., Noguchi, H., & Yosimura, K. (2005). 일본복식사와 생활문화사 [History of Japanese dress and living culture] (E. J. Huh, Trans.). Seoul: AMHBook. (Original work published 2000 & 2002)
13 Kwon, H. W. (1999). A study of fashion trends in modern Korean men's wear: Focusing on the content analysis of fashion magazines from the 1960s to the 1990s. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Sungkyunkwan University, Seoul, Korea.
14 Nam, M.-K. (1992). The study on men's wear market transition. Unpublished master's thesis, Ewha Women's University, Seoul, Korea.
15 Osakabe, Y. (2015). 복제 변혁으로 명치유신을 보다 [Looking at Meiji Restoration through the uniform system revolution] (K. Lee & M. Nomura, Trans.). Seoul: Minsokwon. (Original work published 2010)
16 PMG Knowledge Engine Research Center. (n.d.). Monozukuri. In 시사상식사전 [Dictionary of current affairs and common sense]. Seoul: Parkmungak. Retrieved March 22, 2020, from https://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?docId=930146&cid=43667&categoryId=43667
17 Ryu, S.-H., & Sun, W.-S. (2014). Interpretative approach of craftsmanship: Japanese craftsman (monozukuri)'s work and life. Humanities Contents, 32, 267-283.
18 Kim, J. (1990). 한국양복100년사 [100 years of Korean western suit history]. Seoul: Mirinae.
19 St George, B. (2017, December). The evolution of Japanese tailoring. The Rake: The Modern Voice of Classic Elegance, Retrieved March 15, 2020, from https://therake.com/stories/style/evolution-japanese-tailoring/
20 Shin, H. W. (2008). Research on Japanese craftsmanship. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Kyonggi University, Seoul, Korea.
21 The home of Japanese tailoring in Nihombashi. (2018, August 1). Global Blue, Retrieved March 15, 2020, from https://www.globalblue.com/brands/specials/brandsarchive/isetan-mitsukoshi/article728033.ece
22 Wiesman, L. (2015, April 22). Way of the samurai: Exploring the fine art of Japanese tailoring. Dmarge: The playbook for the modern man, Retrieved March 15, 2020, from https://www.dmarge.com/2015/04/fine-art-japanese-tailoring.html
23 Yang, S. (2003, December 16). 1천만원짜리 맞춤 양복 [Ten-thousand won bespoke suits]. Hankyoreh, Retrieved March 23, 2020, from http://v.media.daum.net/v/20031216064659534?f=o
24 Yi, H.-H. (2012). The westernization of men's clothing influenced by Japan during the era of the Korean empire. The Journal of the Study of Humans and Culture, 20, 123-137.
25 Yoon, T.-L. (2013). Qualitative research methodology. Hongcheon: Arche.
26 Yoon, T.-L., & Ham, H. (2006). Oral history research methods. Seoul: Arche.
27 Youichi, H. (2005). 일본 최고의 가게는 다르다 [Japanese best shops are different] (M. H. Chang, Trans). Seoul: Random House Joongang. (Original work published 2004)
28 Slade, T. (2009). Japanese fashion: A cultural history. Oxford, UK: Berg.