Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
/
v.30
no.5
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pp.1-15
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2002
The purpose of this study is to consider the relationship between point of view and prospect behavior occurring in the experience of a painted landscape. This study analyzes one hundred scenes from the 'real landscape painting' by Kyumjae, one of the most famous landscape painters in 18th century Korea. The results of the study are as follows: 1. It clarified that Kyumjae's real landscape painting's 100 scenes have many view points such as roads, bridges, pavilions, mansions, towers, terraces, hillsides, bases of mountains, broad flat roots, brooksides, and ferries that are apt to occur in the experience of a landscape. The spatial characteristics of view points are expanded fields of vision, evening and night scenes, edges of landforms and structures from which to improve ones vantage point. 2. It showed that 99 out of real landscape painting's 100 scenes depict a view point'to look'and 79 of 'to look through', 73 of 'look around'and 24 of 'to look over'. 3. It showed that real landscape painting's 100 scenes depict that the view point 'to look' is mainly upon a road from which people are looking over an elevated landscape such as the top of a mountain or rockwall. The view behaviors of looking down are depict 15 pavilions, 14 mansions, 2 broad rocks and 10 mountain tops on which people experience landscapes such as fields, rural communities and streams. The view behaviors to look depict 33 ships, 24 roads, 24 pavilions, 19 mansions and 12 terraces on which people experience landscapes such as distant views of mountains, rivers and landscapes. The view behaviors to look around to obtain orientation of landscape are depict 16 pavilions, 10 mountaintops. To glimpse on the way of journey depict 33 ships and 29 roads. To look over depict 11 mansions and 6 pavilions on which experience borrows the landscape. To look through landscapes such as rivers, mountains and rockwalls depict 15 roads, 14 pavilions and 11 mansions. To exchange looks depict 30 ships, 14 roads, 12 pavilions and 12 mansions. We expect that these results might give clues toward the experience of landscapes and the practice of landscape design methods which select viewpoints, and in the design of view points suitable to prospect behaviors.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.21
no.8
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pp.1353-1364
/
1997
The purpose of this study is to present a theoretical framework for analysis and interpretation of medieval look in fashion by investigating its aesthetic values. Accordingly, it would provide a better understanding of the medieval culture with its composite aspects. Modernism sought to make the Middle Ages in its own image.'New Medievalism' has on the whole tried to avoid reading the Middle Ages onto the modern world. Instead it designates a predisposition about the discipline of medieval studies broadly conceived. Consequently, it has changed the viewpoint of medieval culture from the one-sided angle into the diversified one. As recent studies based on New Medievalism have argued, a close look at the medieval culture revealed the dualistic nature of it, with contradictory aspects such as piety and secularity, ideality and formality coexisting. The characteristics of the medieval culture are categorized to asceticism, naturalism, mysticism and secularism. Asceticism, which is responsible for the melancholic and heavy atmosphere of the medieval culture, is related to christianity and despair of life. It is expressed in medieval dress in forms of body-concealing semi-fitted silhouette, coarse texture and dark color. As a reaction to the extreme splendor and exposure of recent fashion, the ascetic medieval look is attracting attention. The monastic look is characterized by body-concealing silhouettes and minimalized usage of colors and details. Naturalism is the feature seeking for purity of the nature and the human itself. It appears in terms of line as a smooth curve flowing along the body contours, or as a revival style of the Greco-Roman drapery in the medieval dress. Naturalism in the medieval look of the late 20th century fashion is expressed as a pure image with the use of sheer and soft fabric to form a smooth curve flowing along the body contours. Mysticism symbolizes the authority of the Christ and the glory of heaven. It is presented in the medieval dress of the body-concealing straight silhouette made of gorgeous fabrics, brilliant colors and decorations by gems and gold. The insecurity caused by the fin-de-siecle mood is creating a strong interest in religion and it is reflected in fashion as a medieval look reviving the solemn and magnificent style of the medieval dress. Secularism is a reflection of the medieval mind of indulging in the beauty of the mundane world. Heraldry and excessive decorations of the medieval dress are forms of this secularism. These styles of gorgeousness are being refined into a new medieval look of the 1990's. The medieval look of the modern fashion is featured in various styles, reflecting the pluralism of the postmodern society.
As androgny presented by feminism still appear in contemporary fashion since mid 1980's feminism as a social phenomenon can be considered to habe influenced fashion history. This paper surveys the sex images of androgynous look that appeared in contemporary fashion into bisexual image and neutral images based on the feminist aspects of changes in contemporary fashion. As stated above bisexual images and neutral images of androgynous look shown in clothing are an attempt to reach one single integrated complete being by overacoming 'femininity' or 'masculinity' and combining the element of the two sexes. Consequently androgynous look creates new attraction by harmoniously coordinating characteristics of the two sexes instead of totally differentiating between masculinity and femininity that are represented in the form of clothing that has conceptual visual characteristics. Following are the conclusions of the reseach of this paper. First 'androgynous' as a feminist sex concept reflects the spirit of the times. Since the sex roles are divided and diversified and the concept of femininity is changing the concept of androgyny requiring both masculine and feminine characteristics in an essential sex concept for sucessful conduct of roles in a complex modern society. Second the integrated human image of androgynous look has led to a new culture with fashion trends that has been ahead of times by curing the functions of fashion to differentiate between men and women. Third androgynous look at the turn-of-the-centuy will not cease to exist but be a lasting fashion phenomenon while the sex concept presented by feminism has become the core to destrov the dichotomous fashion style of the 20th century. Fourth androgynous look is expressed in various manners in contemporary fashion since it shown how human beings accipt the adaptation method desperately required by the contemporary times. Androgynous look can be viewd as the desire for ultimate freedom that can be acquired by destroying the dichotomous sex concept and as the will to become a subject of the world as integrated human being. As we look into fashion culture creation of fashion is not the result of an accidental cause or an individual's work but the reflection of the spirit of the times. In this sense androgynous look introduced by a new sex concept to contemporary fashion has reflected the spirit of the times and led the cultural atmosphere and moreover it is an important fashion style that can characterize the contemporary times while lasting in the future.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.24
no.4
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pp.538-548
/
2000
A study analyzes the eclectic trend shown in Andy Warhol look to explain the pluralistic aspect which is expressed in the late 20th century's fashion. Eclecticism is a trial to dismantle the barriers between pure art and popular art, high culture and low culture. This pursues harmonious accommodation and coexistence of all areas without being confined in the conventional lofty taste or high art. This thesis studies the characteristic aspects of the eclectic trend by classifying this trend into sell culture, mass media and fashion around the Andy Warhol look. The sexual eclectic trend in Warhol look is bisexual one shown in clubland and the world of modeling and supplies fashion with abundant expression and ambiguity. Warhol established cultural eclecticism by compounding high cultural factors and low cultural factors. broke up the boundary between street fashion and high fashion and escaped from the fixed idea on materials and design. Also he generalized and democratized specialty or nobility conventional paintings had possessed through introducing repetition and mediocrity and fully utilized every kind of mass media, Hollywood movie stars and daily necessaries in producing works. Andy Warhol who asserted‘Business Art’that was the mixed form of artistry and commercialism had creative and futuristic taste and proposed the direction to develop current fashion and art where the concept of economy is importantly brought into relief.
The purpose of this study is to examine the tattoo look in modern fashion from the aspects of 'expression techniques' and 'aesthetic properties'. Tattoos are one of the body decoration which have been continued for a long time all over the world and have contained various meanings in : invocation. symbolization. solidification, exotic tastes, and body decoration. While tattoos have been progressed for the past time, they have been enlarged into body painting, make-up, and even into body art. Besides, their technical skills and equipments have been also developed. Therefore, tattoos are neither tabooed nor restricted in lower class, such as gangsters, bickers, prostitutes, etc., any longer. They are showed in everywhere of our society, running on the fashion. Specially, in fashion, they are shown through the 'tattoo look' designed by talented fashion designers. Futhermore, tattoos are one of the things which have gotten a new value under the Post-modernism and the turning of the century. The various tattoo looks in modern fashion are classified into four categories, according to the expression techniques, the use of see-through, reappearance of primitive body-decoration, application of tattoo patterns, application of street styles'tattoo patterns, make-up & body painting. And, they are also classified into four categories, according to the aesthetic properties Exoticism, Eroticism, Primitivism, and Grotesque.
This study aimed to analyze the dilemmas of aging and down-aging by the senior street look, and to examine the styling, psychology, and attitudes of the elderly through socio-cultural discussions. It was conducted through a multidisciplinary literature review and empirical analysis of seniors featured in fashion photos collected from SNS. With respect to seniors' fashion attitudes, firstly, they make personal/social records of dress as a means of recording aging and to reminiscence. Secondly, they attempt to down-age kidult play using mature humor. Thirdly, they try to express a perfect, moderate, and mature beauty to positively adapt themselves to aging. Fourthly, they adopt a regional and ethnic look to escape from the dilemmas accompanying aging and down-aging. This may be regarded as an attitude for repositioning themselves and planning a new life by escaping from a long-standing frame. Finally, they show a desire to stop and enjoy the moment of aging. While recording their cherished everyday lives, they enjoy the present rather than becoming concerned about the past or the future and use styling as a cure for their lives.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.31
no.5
s.164
/
pp.777-787
/
2007
The purpose of this study is to consider various characteristics in the graffiti-look in the modem fashion by interpreting meanings and properties of graffiti, transferred from street art to a new main stream in art. The scope of this study is limited to works from the 1990s to the present, and the materials for the literatures and exploratory study are fashion-related portfolios and the domestic and foreign fashion magazines. The first characteristic is satire. The graffiti-look conveys directly or indirectly with phrase or symbol various messages of politics, social ideology, wealth and poverty, environmental pollution, anti-war, etc. Body is even more used for graffitiand designers express freely their identity or ideology through the formative style of graffiti. The second characteristic is pleasure. Fantastic expressions from a fairy-tale or fable in the graffiti-look give humor meaning freedom and sense of liberation in a sense of catharsis to the modem people's emotion. The graffiti-look uses graffiti works to introduce its original message of humanism, happiness, humor, etc. to clothing; as a result, the graffiti-look features pleasure. The third characteristic iscommercial application. Brand logo designed by graffiti style is decorated with clothing, accessory, or ornament. This may not only emphasize brand name through lingual function of graffiti, but also be used for a distinctive marketing strategy against other brands. Logo which is regarded motive or pattern of design leaves a image instead of a meaning and performs a design function stressing formative sense.
The purpose of this study is to discover the source of the force that has continously pertained it through the years. Following the flow of the times, the Chanel Style has transformed and developed through the styles of the sporty look, the russian look, the gar onne look, the romantic look, and the classic look. Not only has Chanel created classic designs that transcend time, but she has created clothing that is very feminine and full of wit in the evening wear. She has also innovated the fields of textile, garment cutting, details, and accessories. The Chanel Style was expressed by simplicity, funtionality, sensuality, and amusement. Simplicity to Chanel was an important element that expresses both youth and casual characteristics and the use of jersy and the color black has resulted in a functional simplicity. For the active, new woman, not only a funtional beauty but also a subtle, moderate, and a unobtrusive sauve sensibility is expressed in the Chanel Style. Also pleasure can be observed in the costume jewelry that gives one enjoyment.
Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis (July 28, 1929 - May 19, 1994) was served as First Lady of the United States in the early 1960s. Her fashion styles are analyzed into the elements of designs, and the features of Jackie look are assorted. A variety of sources about women's suits for the 21st century are suggested in the research. Jackie's taste in fashion, her fashion image are searched. In addition, after Jackie, other nine fashionable First Ladies' evening dresses are compared to Jackie's dresses so as to see if there are similarities between their styles. Based on this data, the typical First Lady's look is classifiable. The purpose of this study is to furnish the industry with basic information which helps create high value fashion design. Most of Jackie's evening dresses had the straight - sheath silhouettes, and the round or bateau necklines without collars. Pale tones like white predominated in her dresses, and patternless colorful silk, silky and bright texture of cloth was used for the dresses. Elegance and classic represented her image. Design features of Jackie look are the straight silhouette, the simple line excluded adornments, and the fine quality of cloth. There has been little change in other nine First Ladies' evening dresses since Jackie. They weren't influenced by the vogue at that time, but they kept the style the way Jackie did. Jackie style is the beginning of the typical first lady look, that is.
This paper is purposed to clarify that an increase of the matter of concern about men's fashion in the mid-1980s was coincided with rapid change of images for men and diversification within the context of economy, society, culture and to analyze the characteristic of each fashion and the meaning. Findings are as follows: 'New men' played a key role creating and communicating the new male image through the media, as a new masculine appeared in the middle of 1980s. Especially it was spreaded into with British as a center between the generations of young men described as a white-collar worker about the ages from 18 to 35 specifically and appeared by the cultural background in accordance with the spread of consumerism, materialism and post modern feminism and the development of men's fashion. There were 2 types of fashion styles for 'New men' image on the media in the mid-1980s. The First is 'power suit look style' which is self-conscious, including 'corporate formal suit look' and 'soft & sexy suit look'. The Second is 'extravagant body conscious style' which characterize the decolletage and androgynous, including 'tough sports look' and 'sexy skirt look'. Lastly, the 'New men' image means a man as a visible object and a man in the image world.
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