• International Journal of Advanced Culture Technology
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.29-36
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• 2024

The public can now access movies faster and more easily thanks to over-the-top (OTT) services. The audience may be impacted by period dramas, where accurate costume reproduction is crucial. For filmmakers, it is critical to replicate period costumes using precise historical information. The goal of this study is to act as a reference so that, when it comes to period dramas, viewers can evaluate them using impartial criteria and movie producers can use data based on fact to plan their costumes. The film Napoleon won the British Academy Award for Costume after hiring costume experts to create 95% of the entire costume, according to data from the Napoleon I Museum. Following the French Revolution, the ostentatious and ornate men's attire vanished, to be replaced by a more modest and functional outfit. For tops, vests were cut to waist length, shirts, cravats, and carrick were worn, and tailcoats were the norm. The pants were swapped out for loose-fitting ones. The glitzy hues and embellishments from the bygone era progressively vanished and formed the foundation of the contemporary men's costume, which is dominated by black. The hats worn were tricorn, bicorn, top hat, and bowler, and the hairstyle changed from long to short gradually. The civil class wore short tops called carmagnoles. Napoleon wore a high-collared Napoleon collar and a tailcoat with a bicorn, which became his emblem. Green, navy, and white were the colors of the uniform, and a gray woolen coat was worn outside. The elaborately decorated costumes were worn to court and to banquets; the Napoleonic coronation costume was embellished with gold embroidery on silk, red velvet, and martyred hair; the post-revolutionary costumes gradually became more colorful. In the movie Napoleon, period clothing items were well represented, with the aristocracies wearing dark tailcoats, vests, shirts, and cravats. Based on the data from the men's costume, Napoleon's outfit in the movie was made more similarly. This study's limitation is that not every character in the movie could have their costume examined, and the material matter could not be precisely determined by examining the images displayed on the screen. Given that portraits typically feature a great deal of noble imagery, the clothing worn by common people is also associated with data limitations when it comes to movie costume design.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.755-765
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• 2006

This study is on the esthetic characteristics in the haute couture work of Chanel. It first reviews the lives and the fashion philosophy of Chanel, a senior designer and Lagerfeld as representatives of the maison, from the haute couture collection since 2000. The results of the study are the following. First, reinterpreting the tradition, Chanel reproduced historical dress items or silhouette with modern sense, or she created a new modern Chanel image through her original restructuring and dismantling. Second, Chanel expressed balanced beauty of compounded eclecticism by accord between simplicity and ornamentation, which meant her design showed impartial beauty with simple silhouette, decoration with colors, accessories, and ornaments. Third, Chanel did not divide the value between men and women, and instead expressed androgyny through dismantling each gender's characteristics by borrowing or mixing. As a result, she emphasized the female image or created a new style through expressing symbolic image embracing masculinity.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.54-67
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• 1997

Now, this time we regarde as daylife is a part of culture in novelty view of modern culture study. Specially, we can see terms about style surfing supermarket style through visulization process for critic, combination, reconstruction, of modernism, that is post modernism. Not new style show up any more but displayed union of past style history complex, slices of decoration series. A designer group called as memphis, they designed such like that. Our view for fashion could be new in the technology, mixed media, cyber situation is stimulated us and accepted in extened concept of culture. In this study, I approched as a view of streetism cyber punkism haute couture Romanticism linked extension concept of culture. Haute couture fashion has the most historical, and constructive and decorative aspects, and regarded as principle of construction of deconstruction. And this season trend is romantic & emotional image are complexed.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.22-34
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to trace and identify the origin and the meanings of the word ho-su(胡袖) of Chosun dynasty period. Findings of this study can be summerized as follows : The original meaning of the word ho-su(胡袖) is a name of round sleeves. Later it was used as a name of a dress with round sleeves. The word ho-su as a name of a dress is an abbrecviated form of ho su so o za(好袖小 子) of a previous period. The word jyo go ri(赤古里) in historical documents is anothor name of so o za(小 子). Wearing the ho-su(胡袖) was restricted to royal family women. It was included in royal women\`s wedding garments as ordinary use. Colors of this dress was used as a means of differentiating the rank and position of the wearer.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.5-17
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• 2002

This study aimed to investigate the relationship between ideal images of women and women's clothing fashion England between 1820s and 1850s. The age was divided into two periods, which were 1820-1836 and 1837-1850. During the first period, the ideal images of women were those of fairy, spirit, and angels, which were expressed by tight waist belt, wider and shorter skirt, top expanded sleeve, wide and flat pelerine collar, feather decoration, elaborate and curly hair style, narrow and light ballerina shoes etc.. During the second period, the ideal images for women were those of lady with modesty, quietness, and weakness. They were expressed by long and full skirt, tight or bulge over the lower arm sleeve, dropped sleeve, poke bonnet, body wrapping large shawl and sober color etc.. The result shows that the ideal images of women in 19th century England were concretely expressed by various clothing fashion including hair style, shoes, and decoration. This study sheds light on psychological, historical, and theoretical approaches to clothing.

• 복식
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• 제53권2호
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• pp.127-135
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• 2003

Woon Kyun was one of the shoulder cloth worn by both men and women during Won(원) Dynasty. The distinet features of Woon Kyun was that it had cloud-form embroidered on chest, back and both shoulders respectively and the front of it was opened. It also glitterinyly decorated with five different colored embroidery inserted with gold thread. 26 Woon Kyun out of 59 men demonstrated on the miniature of ≪Jipsa≫ were selected and analyzed according to the historical periods, class and sex. The results of the study showed that there was little change on its forms and patterns and people wore it without specific differentiation. The common patterns of embroidery used were various kinds of animals and plants, however, plants seemed to be more preferred.

• 복식
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• 제57권5호
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• pp.45-57
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• 2007

This study is on the aesthetic characteristics of Balenciaga design succeeded to by Nicolas Ghesquiere, and tried to understand his pursuing brand's new design concept and aesthetics. The three key characteristics of Balenciaga designed by Nicolas Ghesquiere are Retrospecitvness, Eclecticism, Deconstruciton. First, Balenciaga looks retrospective sense through reinterpreting tradition. Nicolas created a new sense of expression by mixing his proper instinct with Balenciaga's original properties, historical components of the past western dress, and various design elements of assistants who used to work in Balenciaga. Second, Balenciaga expresses uncertain meaning by compromising between contrast and synthesis among the past and the future, the males and the females, simple and ornament, or different styles. Third, Nicolas's experimental and outsider-oriented view of Deconstruction through reorienting of thought is considered a try for a new formative concept as a designer who is not limited by general rules.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.71-85
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• 2016

Since their emergence in the 1960s, music festivals have attracted young people the world over with similar tastes, attitudes and styles. Now a worldwide phenomenon, music festivals such as Glastonbury in England, Primavera Sound in Barcelona, Spain and Pentaport Rock Festival in Incheon, South Korea draw hundreds of thousands of attendees from around the world and have become a major event not only for music fans, but for trend forecasters who now chronicle what has come to be known as "festival fashion", which has several distinctive style markers. This paper provides a historical background of festival fashion, examines the phenomenon using fashion theory and discusses the controversies facing the music festival and festival fashion, in particular the role that sponsorship from major corporations currently plays as advertisers who want to get their products into the hands of influential festival attendees and allegations of cultural appropriation on the part of attendees. In conclusion, the future of music festivals and festival fashion as a category is examined.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.49-59
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• 2013

This research study investigates the cultural significance and meaning of Thai Mudmee, their historical content, and the variety of the Thai Mudmee techniques, including patterns, symbol and colours. The aim has been to develop the traditional pattern and designs of the Thai Mudmee and produce contemporary textile pieces more appropriate for modern lifestyle tastes both in Thailand and Internationally. By reviving the Thai weaving tradition it is also hoped to encourage and maintain the continuous survival of tradition Mudmee, providing new sales opportunities and markets both in Thailand and abroad. Studying various attempts to redevelop traditional crafts in different countries brought to me the idea of how to develop folk crafts, the problems that occur in this area have encouraged me to express how folk crafts could be benefit from the design process. In this thesis I also express my recommendations for other researchers and the Thai government, as well as other people who interested in Mudmee design. The thesis concludes with the possibilities of how to improve the design of the Mudmee fabric and further areas of research.

• 복식
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• 제41권
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• pp.63-93
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• 1998

This thesis focuses on how the dancing suit frequently used in the Korean royal court has been chronologically changed to that of the modern times. It also aims at how the implicit symbols shown in the royal court dancing suit are related to the traditional concepts and thoughts on Lunar-Solar-Five-Natural-Elements(Eum-Yang-Oh-Haeng). The results of this thesis are as follows. In the historical period of Koryo dynasty, the Buddhists religional ceremonies of YeonDueng-Hoi and PalGwan-Hoi favoured a ritual dancing of DangAakJeongJae originated from the old ancient China, and at the same time it also employed HyangAakJeongJae of Sin-la dynasty. Especially, the DangAakJeongJae contained the kinds of SooSeon-Dyo, Soo-YeonJang, PoTae-Aak, OhYa-ng-Seon, and YeonHwaDae-Mu; and the Hyang-AakJeongJae dealt with Moo-Go and Aa-Bak.