• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권3호
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• pp.95-102
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• 1997

This study is aimed for men's jacket draft not only to other style but also helping for men's jacket fits for trend by presenting the course to get a style we want by adding to the partial drafty changes in existing pattern of men's formal jacket selected two kinds of men's jacket style fit for 1997 S/S trend. In this 1997 S/S trend, the trend I of the characteristic formal jacket is a style slim expressed over the basic formal wear, and trend II of the characteristic casual jacket appears to women's wear that roundly expressed by collar line of V-zone returened back by the shoulder line of jacket made of a big diagonal wrinkled line of X-style in front centered around a button of center front line. In this study, it called that the existing traditional formal jacket of men is a A style of jacket and jacket style I, II is a jacket B, C style. Jacket A, B, C style, a distingtion in draft that added to make form an oblique wrinkled line of the X-shaped-making artificially to the front button line sharply distinguished by eyes will be come out by control of front neck width over the back neck width. According to this, we shall be found that place of front neck point is a cardinal point in draft that will be added any changes in a style of jacket.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.62-73
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to develop men's formal jacket pattern for the Korean males of age 25 to 34 age with an average physique. Through the survey on seven industries of the ready-made men's wear, we investigated size systems and jacket patters presently practiced. From the fitting test of four patterns (three for ready-made jacket patterns, one for educational pattern) the moat favorable and comfortable pattern was selected. New experimented jacket pattern was based on it. The findings were as followed. 1) Survey of the domestic ready-made garment industries showed that each company classified its own manufactured goods according to its own size systems. 2) Anthropometric measurments of forty males for the subjects of lilting test were agreed to the survey of National Anthropometric of Korean(1997). These were also compatible to the standard size (100-88-175) of investigated industries. 3) Experimental jacket pattern was completed through the three times rectification and it gained higher ratings.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.179-196
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• 2009

This is a follow-up study to "An Analysis of the Fitting of Plus-sized Women's Formal Jackets in On-line Shopping Malls", in which we compiled basic sizes of formal jackets sold in online retailers for plus-sized women and compared specific measurements of the jackets from each retailer. Emphasizing a comparison of age groups 20-39 and 40-59, fit evaluations and analyses were conducted in order to provide data to help manufacturers develop formal jacket patterns that reflect physical characteristics of plus-sized consumers and offer better physical fit. The surveys and evaluations were conducted between October 2007 and May 2008. and the compiled data were analyzed using the SPSS 17.0 statistics program. The results were summarized as follows. The two age groups gave different evaluations of the fit problems in the women's formal jackets sold in online retailers. Whereas the age group 20-39 felt that the main problems were in the shoulder, armscye, upper arm, waist, abdomen and hip areas, the age group 40-59 said that they found more problems in the armscye, upper arms, sleeve length and jacket length. Modifying the shoulder area, armscye depth and jacket length severely compromises the jacket's balance, and attention to these areas must be given during pattern design.

• 복식
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• 제5권
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• pp.173-183
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• 1981

In 1895(32nd year of King Ko-Jong), Kyung-moo-chung as westernized police system was established and the uniform of the police developed. Regarding to the Uniform of the Kyung-bu-dai-sin(the Minister Kyung-bu) and to that of the Sun-gum(the low position of the Kyung-bu police), the Kyung-bu costume(Uniform of the police) is divided as Ye-bok(Formal uniform) and Sang-bok(Informal uniform). Ye-bok(Formal uniform) is put on in the case of the law described, and Sang-bok(Informal uniform) is an everyday wear. Ye-bok(Formal uniform) is composed of Ye-mo(hat), Eui(jacket), Go(trousers), Dai(decorative belt), Do(decorative sword), and Hwa(footwear). Sang-bok(Informal uniform) is composed of Sang-mo(hat), Eui(jacket), Go(trousers), and Hwa(footwear). Differences between Sang-bok(Informal uniform) and Ye-bok(Formal uniform) is the materials of the ornament, numbers of the decorative lines. Ye-bok(Formal uniform) has more grandeur[ornament. A historic changes in the Kyung-bu costume(Uniform of the police) during the late of Yi Dynasty was little but the decorative materials and the numbers of the decorative line.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권6호통권59호
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• pp.990-998
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• 2005

The purpose of the study was to examine Korean elderly women's attitudes toward fashion and to determine formal jacket designs preferred by them. The subjects of the study were older than 50 years who will become aging population in 2014. For data collection, interview investigated 200 copies of questionnaire were collected, and available data used final analysis were 174 volumes. As the results of the principal components factor analysis, it revealed 4 attitudinal factors including cautious attitude, fashion-conscious attitude, ostentatious attitude, and easy-conscious attitude. The subjects divided into two groups, highly involved group and lowly involved group, for each factor. As the result of preference differences by the degree of each attitude, it revealed that the attitudes toward fashion products would significantly influence elderly women's jacket design preferences. The results of the study show that they are a diverse group whose consumer needs and wants vary dramatically and give initial information to assist designing appropriate formal jacket for elderly women.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.203-215
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to investigate current garment sizes of women's formal jackets, targeting plus-size women in online shopping malls, and to identify effective size information involved in online apparel purchase behaviors to overcome the short comings of current garment sizes from the perspectives of consumers. Basic 88 size formal jackets from the seven companies found on the 22 websites were collected and analyzed. The data were collected from March to October 2007, and analyzed using SPSS 14.0. The results were summarized as follows. First, there was no website using standard garment size labeling with 'bust-hip-height' set up by KS K 0051 among the 22 websites. Instead, all 22 websites used garment size labeling with figures such as 88, 99, 100, 110, and 120 or with letters such as L, XL, and XXL. The websites presented no body size, but listed garment size. Furthermore, the size information was presented differently, ranging from three items of bust circumference, upper arm length, and jacket length to six items of shoulder width, bust circumference, waist circumference, sleeve width, sleeve length, and jacket length. In addition, no website presented basic information for hip circumference, despite the jacket length covering the hips. Second, a total of 85.7% the websites listed bust circumferences in 88 garment sizes collected as 100cm. Shoulder widths were presented as 39cm or 37cm. Sleeve circumferences were addressed the same, 36cm, in all websites. Third, comparing the differences between guidance sizes and measurement sizes, only 28.5% of the web sites posted guidance sizes of shoulder widths the same as those of the measurement sizes. All web sites presented guidance sizes of bust circumstances as 1 to 5cm smaller than those of the measurement sizes.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.163-173
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• 2011

The objective of this study is to examine the current status of manufacturing formal knit jackets for middle-aged women. Fifteen manufacturers specializing in formal knitwear brands were chosen as the study subjects, and interviews and questionnaires were used with patterners and designers. The questionnaire was composed of 27 items and began with general questions, such as how the jackets were manufactured. Specific questions, such as materials and sewing method, were also considered further on. The results are as follows: First, as for the structure of the knit jacket manufacturer, seven out of fifteen manufacturers directly manufactured knit jackets in their own factory, while the manufacturing was comprised of 20% woven jackets and 80% knit jackets for all manufactures. Second, as for the type of yarn mostly used in knitting the fabric for the jackets, satin yarn and wool were used mostly for F/W with Plain and Half Milano rib stitches as the type of knit with a gauge of 12G and 7G. Third, as for the margin between the product size of the target brand and the size of the body at the time of designing a knit jacket pattern, the investigation of the actual state of manufacturing showed that the margin at the bust was B+4.8cm, the waist was W+6.9cm, and the hip girth was H+5cm. Therefore, the bust and hip girth of the knit jackets were designed to be smaller than those of the bust and hip girth lines of non-flexible woven jackets. On the contrary, the waist measurement of non-flexible woven jacket was designed to be smaller than the knit jacket. It was found that the side line of the knit jacket was expressed with greater give as compared to that of the non-flexible woven jacket.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.159-165
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to develop Semantic Differential Scales with Tailored Jacket. Sixteen slides were made from selected Jacket which were representatives of four types of Jackets. The slides were shown to college students and graduate school students. The students were asked to describe their responses to each slide in Korean adjectives. In order to extract the representative and the frequency each adjective was calculated. As a results, 35 adjectives-elegant, graceful, neat, mature, slim, formal, natural, brisk, comfortable, etc-were selected. Therefore the Semantic Differential Scales composed of 35 pairs adjectives were developed.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권2호
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• pp.276-287
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• 2009

Apparel professionals need to understand the customer to effectively develop, select, and promote apparel products. Analysis of consumer preferences can help in the creative design process. Therefore the purpose of this study was to identify consumer preference by gender in two segmented group; $20{\sim}34$ aged group and $35{\sim}49$ aged group toward men's apparel consumers, considering target customers and female influences on men's wear purchasing. We used questionnaires that were distributed to 600 males and females aged in their 20s to 40s, using stratified sampling method. Only 547 reliable questionnaires were selected for statistical analysis. Chi-Square and t-test were used to analyze the data, using SPSS program. We obtained the following results: 1. We found that there was a significant association between segmented age group and the preference of men's jacket style. Specially $20{\sim}34$ aged group had a significant association with styles of formal jacket, casual t-shirts, casual pants, but $35{\sim}49$ aged group had formal pants style. Looking at the general percentage, semi-formal jacket, slim fit t shirt, straight casual pants were the most favored styles. 2. Age has an significant effect on the preferences of formal menswear fabric patterns and shirt patterns. The results of t-test showed that there found to be significant by gender in character and check pattern of shirts. 3. In design details, the number of button had not significance by gender, and 2 buttons was th most favored by both age groups. The number of gather at the waist had an significant association in $34{\sim}49$ age group. $20{\sim}34$ age group prefer high waist of pants, while $35{\sim}49$ age group prefer low waist of pants. 4. For on time outfit, formal wear and tie ensemble was the most favored with significant difference by age and gender. Formal wear and no tie ensemble favored by about one third of respondents, and more favored by the younger group. For off time outfit, casual jacket and casual pants ensemble was the most favored.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제43권3호
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• pp.440-458
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• 2019

Based on a 3D body data and pattern comparison analysis, this study developed a formal jacket pattern for men in their late 30s. In order to select the representative type of men in their late 30s, factor analysis and cluster analysis were conducted on data form 319 men, 35 to 39 years old using the anthropometric data from The 7th Size Korea (2015) as the representative body type. The surface of the body surface was developed using a 3D human shape of a male in his 30s in The 6th Size Korea (2010). Then the shape was changed to a flat pattern that confirmed the necessary elements for setting the shape and dimension. Cluster analysis revealed type B as the representative type because it showed the best shape characteristics for men in the late 30s. The drafting method of the final research pattern is as follows. Jacket length: stature/2.5cm, back length: stature/5+8.5cm (constant)], armhole depth: [stature/ 7-1.5cm (constant)], back width: [C/9+9.5cm (constant)]+1cm (ease), front width: [C/9+8.5cm (constant)]+1cm (ease), armscye depth: C/8, front waist darts: 1cm, front closure amount: 2cm.