Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회지)

The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

A Study on Development of Men's Formal Jacket Pattern by 3D Human Body Scan Data -A Focus on Men's in their Late 30s-

3D 인체데이터를 활용한 남성 정장재킷 패턴개발 연구 -30대 후반 남성을 중심으로-

  • Received : 2019.05.27
  • Accepted : 2019.06.14
  • Published : 2019.06.30
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

Based on a 3D body data and pattern comparison analysis, this study developed a formal jacket pattern for men in their late 30s. In order to select the representative type of men in their late 30s, factor analysis and cluster analysis were conducted on data form 319 men, 35 to 39 years old using the anthropometric data from The 7th Size Korea (2015) as the representative body type. The surface of the body surface was developed using a 3D human shape of a male in his 30s in The 6th Size Korea (2010). Then the shape was changed to a flat pattern that confirmed the necessary elements for setting the shape and dimension. Cluster analysis revealed type B as the representative type because it showed the best shape characteristics for men in the late 30s. The drafting method of the final research pattern is as follows. Jacket length: stature/2.5cm, back length: stature/5+8.5cm (constant)], armhole depth: [stature/ 7-1.5cm (constant)], back width: [C/9+9.5cm (constant)]+1cm (ease), front width: [C/9+8.5cm (constant)]+1cm (ease), armscye depth: C/8, front waist darts: 1cm, front closure amount: 2cm.

Keywords

References

  1. Choi, J. Y., & Song, H. K. (2016). Investigation of production condition of ready-made and MTM men's Suits - Focusing on brands of department store -. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 18(6), 746-754. doi:10.5805/SFTI 2016.18.6.746
  2. Kang, K., Choi, H., & Kim, S. (2015). A study on the comparative analysis of slim jacket patterns for men in their 20s. Journal of Korea Design Knowledge, 33, 191-207. doi:10.17246/jkdk.2015.33.019
  3. Kim, M.-O. (2009). The patternmaking of men's slim-fit jacket -Focusing on men in the 30's- (Unpublished doctoral dissertation). Hanyang University, Seoul.
  4. Kim, M.-O., Kim, I., & Suh, M.-A. (2012). Comparisons: Sizes in men's slim-fit jackets according to brand zones and number of buttons, and jacket patternmaking methods according to jacket styles. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 20(2), 184-194. doi:10.29049/rjcc.2012.20.2.184
  5. Kim, M.-O., Lee, M.-S., & Suh, M.-A. (2009). The effects of waist-line cutting portion on external appearance and performance in designing jacket patternmaking for men's casual jacket - Focusing on standard body type in 20s -. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 17(4), 616-625. doi:10.29049/rjcc.2009.17.4.616
  6. Kim, M.-O., & Suh, M.-A. (2011). Survey on purchase and fitting of menswear suits according to styles for consumers in their 30s. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 19(1), 191-199. doi:10.29049/rjcc.2011.19.1.191
  7. Kim, S.-A. (2010). A study of automated custom-made pattern development system for elderly women for mass-customization (Unpublished doctoral dissertation). Ewha Womans University, Seoul.
  8. Korean Agency for Technology and Standards. (2010). 6차 인체치수조사 [The 6th Size Korea]. Size Korea. Retrieved from https://sizekorea.kr/page/report/2
  9. Korean Agency for Technology and Standards. (2015). 7차 인체치수조사 [The 7th Size Korea]. Size Korea. Retrieved from https://sizekorea.kr/page/report/1
  10. Korean Standards Association. (2009). KS K 0511 Measuring method for thread per unit length in woven cloth. Seoul: Author.
  11. Korean Standards Association. (2011). KS K 0514 Measuring method for weight of cloth: small specimen method. Seoul: Author.
  12. Korean Standards Association. (2015). KS K 0210-1 Test Methods for Quantitative Analysis of Fibre Mixtures of Textiles - Test Methods for Fibre Identification. Seoul: Author.
  13. Lee, J.-H., Jun, J.-I., & Choi, K.-M. (2013). Characteristics and classification of body type of adult men in their forties for automated pattern design. Journal of Korea Design Forum, 39, 325-336. doi:10.21326/ksdt.2013.39.029
  14. Na, H. J. (2015). A study on the appearance management behavior of adult male (Unpublished master's thesis). Changwon National University, Changwon.
  15. Paek, K. J. (2009). Fit analysis for men's bodice pattern using 3D scans-Compared to traditional fit evaluation-. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 33(1), 139-148. doi:10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.1.139
  16. Park, S. H., & Lee, E. H. (2013). A comparative study on the ease of men's jackets according to the pattern draft methods. Journal of the Korean Society of Design Culture, 19(2), 112-127.
  17. Seong, O.-J., & Ha, H.-J. (2012). A study of middle aged obese men's body shapes - 35-55 years of age -. Journal of Korea Design Forum, 35, 39-50. doi:10.21326/ksdt.2012.35.004
  18. Shim, B.-J., Li, E.-J., & Suh, C.-Y. (2007). Comparative analysis of jacket pattern and wearing evaluation for pattern design of men's fitted jacket. Journal of Fashion Business, 11(5), 35-50.
  19. Shin, K. H., & Suh, C. Y. (2018). A study on the trend analysis of men's suit jacket pattern in 'gap Men's Collection'-From 2012 F/W to 2018 F/W-. Journal of the Korean Society of Design Culture, 24(3), 319-328. https://doi.org/10.18208/ksdc.2018.24.3.319
  20. Suh, C. (2009). Development of male fitted torso type basic patterns according to the body surface segment method. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 33(7), 1109-1120. doi:10.5850/JKSCT.2009.33.7.1109
  21. Suh, C. (2016). Bodice pattern development of the slim-fit dress shirt for middle-aged males using 3D body scanning data. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 40(1), 171-187. doi:10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.1.171
  22. Suh, D.-A., Oh, S.-Y., & Chun, J.-S. (2006). A study of the patternmaking methods for mass customization of the men's jacket. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 14(1), 40-47.
  23. Yoo, H., Yang, C., & Suh, C. (2016). A study on the development of the jacket sloper for educational textbook of men's wear. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 40(4), 701-715. doi:10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.4.701
  24. Zo, D. S. (2017, August 18). 2017 남성복 마켓 트렌드 - 거세지는 캐주얼 바람에...빗장 제친 '성장대로' [2017 Menswear market trend - in a casual breeze...Bolted 'As you grow']. Korea Fashion+Tex News. Retrieved http://www.ktnews.com/news/articleView.html?idxno=104177