• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.787-799
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• 2016

This study considers aesthetic characteristics by examining fashion style of fashion journalist Anna Wintour. Fashion journalists are specialists who work at fashion media. Especially, Anna Wintour is one of the most famous fashion journalist in the world and fashion icon, who has been editor-in chief of Vogue USA since 1988. For this study, Anna Witour's photograph was collected from 2010 to 2015 on web-sites. After collecting images, it analysed with 4criterions which were silhouette, color, fabric(pattern and texture) and hair style(and accessories) following advance researches analysis about fashion style. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, symbolism revealed that could express her identity through utilizing steady items such as blond bob hair, Chanel bold sunglasses, short round neckless and Manolo Blahnik's low-heeled slingback nude sandals. Especially, she gave consistency to her fashion style with fixed hair style and accessories which are similar in shape. Second, femininity, that reveal as an internal characteristic such as sensitivity and as an external characteristic like fluidity. Anna Wintour expressed femininity with elegant curvy silhouette, various of color and flower pattern. Particularly, she emphasized nature women's body shape with princess silhouette, slim silhouette. Third, analysis result indicated characteristic of authority with oversize silhouette, wide lapel details and glamorous genuine fur items. Furthermore, some of her fur items looked overwhelming which dyed in artificial color or printed with leopard pattern. These powerful items contained immanent meanings that are power and position which could express a role as an editor-in chief of Vogue USA.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.412-419
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• 2019

This study is to help maintain the identity of traditional Korean culture and develop fashion culture products by applying images and composition forms of traditional lattice patterns for vest designs. Lattice can be distinguished as a shape created through intersecting vertical and horizontal lines, in the form of oblique lines in vertical and horizontal structures, and in the form of an oblique line. Lattice patterns represent the overall unity and order as well as the beauty of small spaces created by simple lines. Traditional lattice patterns of the Joseon Dynasty were examined theoretically through the literature. Based on theoretical grounds, there is study illustrates vest designs using Adobe Illustrator CS6 as well as works on a 3D virtual costume using CLO Trial 4.2, a 3D virtual dressing system of CLO Virtual Fashion. This study developed an easy to wear vest design categorized as clothes for both men and women. The geometric formality of the lattice pattern has been applied to fashion culture products. In this study, the design was developed focusing on lattice, kotsal (flower pattern), sosulbitsal (diagonal), sotdaesal, tisal (horizontal & vertical). This study can be used as basic data in the domestic fashion cultural product market that can help maintain the originality of Korean culture in the global era that also assists in the successful promotion of Korean culture and traditions.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.50-64
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• 2006

This study was performed the analysis on the final usage and the pattern type of Jacquard fabrics through the surveyed data from the domestic and foreign textile fashion magazines[Book Moda, Fashion biz, Vogue] during recent 5 years(2000-2004). The result of this study can be summarized as follows. 1 Jacquard fabric mostly applies to apparel followed by accessory, interior decoration and bedding. As classified by uses, in apparel, it applies to One-pieces most followed by jackets and coats. In interior decoration, Slipcover uses Jacquard fabric most and then cushions, curtains and carpets. In accessory, neck ties use it most and then hand bags, hats and mufflers. In bedding, Jacquard fabric evenly applies to sheets, pillows, blankets and coverlet. 2. As classified by uses above, flowered patterns apply to each use most followed by geometric patterns, abstract patterns, ethnic patterns, art patterns and animal patterns. In addition, flowered patterns apply to apparel most and then interior decoration, accessory and bedding. Geometric patterns apply to apparel, accessory, interior decoration and bedding orderly. It is researched that abstract patterns and ethnic patterns also apply to apparel partially.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.13-24
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• 2004

This study was analyzed three basic patterns of the Islamic arts. These are natural flora, geometrical and calligraphy pattern. Islamic belief in Aniconism, doctrine of unity and worship of arabic language demanded delicate, decorative, and abstract patterns instead of patterns of real image. Natural flora pattern was classified into arabesque and various flower patterns. Muhammad commands that "The artist who fashions a representation of living things is competitor of God and therefore destined to eternal damnation, so if you want to represent living things, you should only depict flowers and trees". Then the natural flora patterns developed into main Islamic pattern. Geometric pattern was composed of geometrical elements like, circle, trigon, square, rectangle, pentagon, hexagon, octagon or other polygons, stars or motifs with straight or curved lines. Circle symbolized ′celestial′ sphere and crystal of the lower octagon symbolized ′earthly existence′. Therefore if the circle join with the octagons, it means fusion of celestial and earthly existence. Another important influence on the Islamic art was the calligraphy pattern, the writing of Arabic language. The major language of calligraphy pattern was Arabic script and often Persian script. Calligraphy pattern was composed of Kufic and Cursive script. The cursive script was developed various forms. The Islamic tenet prohibit depiction of sacred images, the sacred Arabic calligraphy such as ′Alla′ or ′Mohammad′ was substituted of them. And the content of calligraphy pattern was used with Quranic phrases. The aesthetics of Islamic patterns analyzed aesthetic of ′rhythmic lines′, aesthetic of ′unity in multiplicity′, aesthetic of tessellation and aesthetic of harmony. On the textiles of the Islamic culture, the arabesque, floral, geometric and calligraphy patterns were frequently used.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.112-123
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• 2009

The -purpose of this study is to examines the Cheoyongmu's costume of the paintings of Banquets during the Choseon dynasty focusing on the Comparison of the Cheoyongmu's costume in Akhakgwebeom. The method of the study is the literature analysis closely the occurrence, feature, and function of the Cheoyongmu by analyzing the costume process of transition of the eras was analyzed into the function and feature. The research was done by comparing and analyzing the difference of the costume in Akhakgwebeom. In term of difference, of the Cheoyongmu's costume of the paintings of Banquets and Akhakgwebeom had the shape and colour. In headgear, Samo(: 紗帽) or Bokdu was worn and the flower decoration on the Samo and Ui(:衣)was different pattern. The Gilgyong(:吉慶) was not worn. Hye(: 鞋) and Hwa(:靴) was worn and the colour of Hwa was different.

• 복식
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• 제60권3호
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• pp.123-137
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is contemplating and substantiating Korean Empire's court costume through relics and photos. Additionally, the meaning of the pattern of Mugunghwa as the national symbol in the court costume is considered. The results of this study are following. First, a phased introduction of western-style court costume was executed through Ulmi Reformation in 1895 and Court Costume Rule in 1900. U1mi Reformation was characterized by transitional reformation because newly introduced system and traditional costume consolidated in costume. Under Court Costume Rule, however, by accepting western-style on contemporary costume, modernized style was settled in every respect of form and matter. The court costume comprised bicorn, coat, vest, pantaloon, sword, sword belt, white collar and white gloves at audience with the Emperor. Second, by examination of the relics of Chigimgwan and Juimgwan, it was confirmed that the court costume was manufactured in foreign countries such as France and Russia on the basis of order. It was also identified by pictures that court costume was worn by diplomats dispatched. Third, the pattern of Mugunghwa in court costume was featured by embroidery of 6 petal pattern. And the pattern of Mugunghwa, as national symbol, has important meaning in view of history and national affection, while Japanese and European adopted the crest of the royal household. In summary, Korean Empire proclaimed modernized court costume institution to handle international relationship driven by West. It was uneasy reformation in adopting western court costume imported from overseas because its textile and style were completely different from traditional costume. However, the willingness of Korean Empire should be reevaluated in the history of Korean costume, in that Korean Empire established court costume proclaimed its sovereignty domestically and overseas, and that the pattern chosen as national symbol was that of Mugunghwa which is current national flower.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.163-180
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• 2019

A pattern is a symbolic mark of the psychological expression and ornamental desire of the human interior. In particular, plant patterns, from ancient times to modern times, express beauty across both the east and the west. The Joseon dynasty had a strong national will, and it was a time when the symbolism of Korea was established. Plant patterns were decorative and symbolic, filled with meaning in both the textile and craft sectors. This study looked at the frequency and figurative characteristics of the types of plant patterns in textiles, ceramics, woodworking, and metal craftsmanship of the Joseon dynasty. In addition, pattern designs were developed by extracting unit patterns to maintain the original shape, and by adding, magnifying, reducing, and superimposing flat steps and employing the four-fold sequence. The data collected was 826 examples in textiles and crafts, and 34 species of plants were analyzed as follows. In general, the flower patterns preferred soft flowers, flowers, apricot, and peony patterns, and fruit patterns emerged as decorative designs for pottery and woodwork from the 17th century, featuring pomegranates, grapes, fluorines, peaches, and walnut floss. Textiles and woodwork were arranged with many circular designs, while pottery and metal crafts were filled in many ways. Expressive types appeared to be the same as stylistic types for textiles and ceramics, and the construction types were the same in pottery and metal crafts. As such, it was found that even in the different areas of the sculpture, the same aesthetic values were reflected in the common figurative features today. Therefore, in this study, we developed a unique and competitive pattern design that accommodates the modern times and the Joseon dynasty. This development is expected to contribute not only to the development of cultural and tourism products in the future, but also to the tourism industry induced by the Korean wave.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권3호
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• pp.481-502
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• 2014

This study intended to identify the relationship between textile print designs for local apparel, and fashion trends. This was achieved by extracting trend key words and analyzing apparel textiles. The fashion trends and print trends from the 2010S/S season to the 2013F/W season as projected by two trend forecasters, the Samsung Fashion Institute and First View Korea, were extracted for a comparative analysis. In terms of clothing patterns, a total of 1,582 print designs purchased by local apparel brands targeting women in their 20s and 30s from print design companies including Italy's NEWAGE, MyDesign and England's Pattern, were analyzed. After classifying the designs according to the trend key words which had been extracted, the demands by season, trend dependency, and design preferences were analyzed to produce the following results. The major key words for textile print designs from the 2010S/S season to the 2013F/W season were Check & Stripe, Flower, Geometric, Natural, Ethnic, and Graphical. Patterns corresponding to those design key words were more prominent in recent designs. Considering the trends by season, the designs presented in the F/W season were found to be more likely to correspond to the trend key words than those in the S/S season. A general preference for nature-inspired designs was also found in the local print market.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.129-144
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• 2017

Throughout the rich human history, patterns have developed as a symbolic sign and representation of the inner psychology of human beings. Thanks to its intrinsic beauty and emotional richness, the flower has been utilized as a one of the major materials for patterns used in everyday life and art. As a product of nature, floral patterns have played a key role in fashion trends as a Surface Design with other elements of fashion design such as silhouette, fabric and color. Therefore, this research sought to identify the trends of floral patterns of women's garments that appeared at the four major global fashion collections (Paris, Milano, New York and London), and to analyze how importantly the fashion magazines' prediction were applied in the actual collections. Furthermore, the research aimed to suggest possible methods to utilize trend magazines for collections in the future. As a main research method, the authors investigated professional fashion literature and internet websites to extract a total of 4,681 items presented by sixteen designers who participated in the four major global fashion collections each time during the period of the 2012 S/S~2017 S/S seasons. First View Korea and Samsung Design Net were used as major sources for the pattern extraction and analysis. According to the analysis, floral patterns account for 31%(1,454 items) among the total number of patterns appearing in the four major global fashion collections(4,681 items). For the reflection ratio, Samsung Design Net recorded a 4% higher ratio(52%) than First View Korea(48%). Based on the data and analysis of this research, the authors expect that floral patterns in various forms will be continuously presented in fashion collections, and conclude that utilizing fashion magazines is highly useful due to their appropriate predictions.

• 복식
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• 제4권
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• pp.25-37
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• 1981

Art Nouveau style refers to the movement of art which was started in France and Belgium in the last decade of the 19th and the early years of the 20th century. The distinguishing characteristics of Art Nouveau style are the sensous sinuosity of its line, nervously undulating, curving over itself, rhythmical, flowing in endless patterns, which are inspired by animals and plants, specially by flowers, leaves, long stalks. The Art Nouveau style includes also the extreme simplicity of form, and asymmetric design. This new trend of art movement spread into architecture, furniture, wall papers, graphic design, accessories and textiles. In this paper, I tried to find out whether or not the Art Nouveau style had an effect on clothing. Because I believe clothing, like architecture, painting, and sculpture, is an Art form that derives from a particular set of cultural circumstances and reflects the needs and aspirations of the society for which it is created. Fashions in clothing over the last five thousand years have mirrorred the art form as well as the spirit. The result of this study shows that the Art Nouveau style made a lasting contribution to the modernism of clothing as well as architecture and interior design at the end of 19th century and the early years of the 20th century. The modernism of clothing appeared in the straight silhouette, asymmetric design, simple and light trimming, embroidery with Art Nouveau pattern, and stylized flower design in textile. Art Nouveau made a great contribution toward the modern clothing to have its liveliness and its harmonious relationship between clothing design and the use of materials.