• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.11-21
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• 2015

This study analyzed the expressive phenomenon of a blurred boundary in fashion jewelry focused on the relationship between fashion jewelry and costume or fashion jewelry and body. The method of this study was to analyze recent documentaries about jewelry theories in regards to 607 cases of fashion jewelry design in fashion books, fashion magazines, fashion internet sites from 2000 to 2014. The results were: First, phenomenon of blurred boundary between fashion jewelry and costume was expressed in a see-through wear form made of luxury material (gold and diamond) or paste material, a similar form (like fashion accessories made of crystal, bids, and gold chain), an integration of fashion accessories and jewelry, and an attached jewelry on fashion accessories. It reflected a rearrangement of conventional relationships, a blurred relation of function and meaning, dissolution of jewelry form stereotypes, jewelry styling, a harmony of function and decoration, and an alteration to the central role of a fashion image. Second, the phenomenon of a blurred boundary between fashion jewelry and body was expressed in a body organ wrapping, body surface adhesion and sculptural jewelry based on body pose. It reflected a separation from conventional space of jewelry expression, a realization of mystery and fantastic, an expression of new body surface and a blurred boundaries of fashion jewelry and body art. Aesthetic characteristics were analyzed into metaphor and integration by separation from the conventional relationship of fashion jewelry and costume or fashion jewelry and body.

• 복식
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• 제59권4호
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• pp.126-142
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• 2009

Arte Povera, which was started centering around of Italy in 1960, made a great sensation using by base materials in the works that were totally different from other artists' work. Beginning of Arte Povera was just starting of Base Materialism and it was a reconsideration about the life's authenticity in material civilization. Arte Povera carried worthless materials, which were overlook or ignored in the life, into the gallery. In this study, records and Arte Povera Group's works was studied. The outcome of Arte Povera's materialism was used to an analysis of fashion designers' works. It shows how to explain Arte povera's materialism in fashion designers' works in 1960s and since 1990. Materialism in fashion is expanding from constructed materials of the clothing to the body. The expression method is getting various and complex. As if 1960s' art was, modern fashion is getting one of the testing places for the Ideology. It is getting out of the boundary of the utility as fashion art by using materials. So a function of the clothing is expending including wareing. The same expression methods of the materialism between fashion and art are as follow: First, revealing silhouette or materialism of the body or material as formless material. Second, an expression method as Base Materialism from a raw material. Third, the mobility and the transformation, which are a changeable characteristic according to a place, a space and an audience.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권4호
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• pp.563-573
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• 2009

This study analyzed the trends and aesthetic characteristics of fur design found in the contemporary fashion to examine the status of fur material in the contemporary fashion design, and through an analysis of the meaning it attempted to come up with a new viewpoint and form on material for the future fashion design. A literature review was used to explore the kinds and properties of furs. In addition, an empirical analysis of works that have appeared in fashion collections since the year 2000 was conducted with local and foreign fashion magazines such as Gap, Vogue, and Mode & Mode and other publications related to fashion collections. In the contemporary fashion, the trends of fur design are represented by use of various items, material combinations, application to decorative purposes(like trimmings, details, or accessories), and a wide range of colors and textures available by advanced dyeing and finishing techniques. The aesthetic values intrinsic to fur design are that the expression of conspicuous luxury covers even the qualitative aspect of luxury and adds fashionable images to casual items, contributing to the popularization of fur fashion, by using a variety of artificial furs; the expression of sensual feminine beauty allows the animal and primitive feel characteristic of furs to convert a feminine body into a sensual image of more than a simple biological impulse; and the expression of hybridity presents a new viewpoint through distortions, exaggerations, deviations from the existing constituent forms, or futuristic sensibilities in all elements of fashion design.

• 복식
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• 제66권6호
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• pp.149-157
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• 2016

For the Korean fashion industry to become more competitive, not only does it need to develop a higher value-added fashion products, but also needs to raise creative and professional talented people. The purpose of this study is to propose ways to develop new curriculum for education in the fashion design field by analyzing the degree of recognition about the importance of curriculum in fashion design. Based on the curriculums of fashion design field of universities, a survey was conducted using a questionnaire to measure the degree of importance and the degree of application for the curriculum of fashion design field. The study gathered data from 235 students from 6 universities in Seoul. Major conclusions of the study are as follows: First, preferred career courses after graduation were fashion designer for woman's or menswear, patterner. Second, clothing construction field is considered to be the most important subject in the present, while material planning field is considered to become the most important in the future. The fashion design field was evaluated as an important field in the present and the future. Third, fashion design, accessory design, fashion design CAD, fashion illustration were evaluated as important subjects and highly available for career. Fourth, fashion design CAD, fashion illustration, and textile design were evaluated as the courses that needed more emphasis. Flat sketch, spec sheet, on-the-job training were needed to be included. Fashion designer, and patterner were preferred for career courses. Clothing construction, material planning, and fashion design were evaluated as important fields. Accessory design, fashion design CAD, and fashion illustration were evaluated as important and highly available subjects for career. For the new curriculum in the fashion design field, more courses on fashion design CAD, fashion illustration, textile design and on-the-job training are needed.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권3호
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• pp.349-357
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• 2016

As a solemn and serious uniform, military uniform can be differentiated easily from any other clothing in the aspects of color, material and style. Inspired by military uniform, fashion designers have been applying military uniform elements into modern fashion design in recent years, which helps to bring military uniform from the trench onto international fashion runway. The primary method of this research is theory analysis method and exampling study method. Based on the collected materials of modern military uniform, this paper takes the fashion and cultural study theory of the famous American scholar Susan B. Kaiser as the leading theory to analyze four subject positions embodied in military uniform, including nation, rank, gender and time and space. By analyzing the subject positions embodied in military uniform, it shows the rich cultural connotation of military uniform and the function of various small details. Meanwhile, by giving specific examples, this paper explores the influences of military uniform on modern fashion design in respect to color, style, material, pattern and accessory. Through the conduct of this research, it comes to the conclusion that military uniform also has the characteristics and properties described in the fashion and cultural theory of Susan B. Kaiser, in addition, designers can be inspired by every specific object around them, which shows the talents of designers.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.197-206
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• 1996

We can see the relationship between Fashion creation and Art through the characteristic of clothings at Fashion Collections such as the round, abstractive motive, optical effect, symetric line, etc. This relationship between Fashion creation and Art brings the affective image and the aesthetic shock to open the door to imagination. Art-related people such as artist, fashion designer share the creativeness, new vision and artistic fever. We can see the link and co- work between art and fashion creation all over the 20th centary. Specially it reached its peak in 1960s when Paco Rabanne, Andra Curreges, Pierre Cardin and Yves Saint-Laurent introduced their works. This study includes not only the influence of the art but also the relationship between the art and fashion creation to analyze the way and the reason of the influence of the art in terms of the form, technique, material and process. Doing this, 1 try to ask and answer the question "through what form and at what situation fashion creation can be considered as an art." The study reaches the conclusion that fashion designer is the creator, technician and transferer if the the art.e the art.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.119-127
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• 2011

This purpose of this study was to analyze the formation and look into design characteristics by types and method of expression on multifunctional eco-friendly fashion design. Total 191 pieces of multifunctional fashion design photographs were collected through fashion collection from 2000 S/S to S/S 2010 F/W on the website. First, the characteristics of multifunctional eco-friendly fashion design used squared silhouette, achromatic colors, plain patterns for pollution control, hard materials to prolong the product, it was clear that details were minimized to save resources. Second, there were 5 changeable types of multifunctional eco-friendly fashion design which were changes in changing forms, material changes, item changes, detail changes and complex changes. Third, as the result of changeable types by method of expression, the changing forms were expressed by removable, material changes by reversible, detail changes by open and close and item changes by shifting. Forth, the formative properties of multifunctional eco-friendly fashion design had flexibility, multifunction, versatility and amusing. Therefore, this study will be helpful in planning multifunctional eco-friendly fashion design according to the kind of formative characteristics, changeable types, method of expression and provide concrete fundamental materials for the expert in clothing on the base of objective data through statistical analysis.

• 복식
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• 제63권4호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

Using the premise that fashion and art reflects the characteristics of its times, this study examines the influence of Anti-form in fashion with a focus on physicality. This study combines literary survey and case analysis of both Anti-form in 1960s and 1970s and the fashion collections since 1970s when the influence of Anti-form began to appear in fashion. The influence of Anti-form focusing on physicality is summarized as deconstruction of garment and visualization of the physicality of material. Deconstruction of garment visualizes the invisible structures of garment by deconstructing, restructuring, and deforming the construction and the shapes of the garment, which is illustrated by visualization of design process, overlapping and fusing of materials, loss of stitches, and use of fabrics with flaws, questioning and destroying the sartorial conventions and aesthetic standards. Visualization of the physicality of material exposes the imperfect inside of garment which is concealed conventionally by presenting unfinished garments with minimized sewing procedure, crumpling and flattening fabrics, rubbing and fading surfaces, pulling threads, as well as using the selvages of fabrics.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.59-67
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• 2006

In textile industry of $21^{st}$ century, to develop materials and designs in fashion industry is being recognized widely as an urgent problem. In other words, the reality is that we must offer scarcity value and unique materials, and make a positive effort in a time when consumers' individuality appeals and an interest in fashion becomes higher. Felt is not only the oldest material in human history, but also a technique, and its applications are being handed down broadly. I have made various materials based mainly on a traditional felt technique using merino wool and nuno felt technique felting merino wool to cotton gauze. In nuno felt thing, I could observe that as wool and cotton was created as a single composite material, each material's aesthetic, sensuous, functional and emotional description became much more diversified. The purpose of this study is to produce fashion materials using materials with rich texture to meet the consumers' preference and diversity which are increasingly individualized, to design them and to seek possibility of developing differentiated wool materials which can satisfy the consumers' individuality demand and preference.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권5호
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• pp.472-480
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• 2005

It was proved the practical use of the unique traditional Korean paper through the previous researches. The purpose of this study was to suggest the adequate application which is making various applied patterns in the fashion products so as to contribute to textile, fashion, and Korean paper industry. Six kinds of vests with the same fashion material using the Korean traditional paper were manufactured in order to investigate the images of materials in case of wearing them on the actual human bodies. As the results of image assessment for the materials and the factor analysis, 'classical', 'natural', 'Korean traditional', 'rural' and 'luxury' images were presented as the representative image of the Korean traditional paper material. Making repeated patterns of stripes and zigzag by sewing-machine stitches showed the natural effect on Korean traditional paper. Well-matched harmony was shown between holes made by the needle in sewing and slits torn by the tension to the needle and the thread. Especially, transparency by irregular holes formed by artificial frictional washing could shown special formative arts harmoniously with semi-transparency of Korea traditional paper and touch of sewing yarn. After the unripe persimmon dyeing, holes made by the needle became more hard and tight. The changes were no longer shown by the artificial frictional washing and then fixed. As the result of applying the Korean traditional paper fashion materials with various patterns for the basic formed garments, it was shown that the common and simple garments were changed the garments with special formation which could be found on the art garments due to the creative touch and formative arts using the Korea traditional paper fashion material. A variety of formative application by means of the developed samples was suggested to enlarge the practicality. As the result of this study, it was discovered that the possibility and application of fashion goods through the developed samples made of Korean traditional paper.