• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.107-125
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• 2007

In human history, scarf has acted not only as a protection for body but also as a symbolization of class. Today, scarf has become a whole field in fashion and an important accessory to express individuality in fashion. Hence, like other fashion item, it is very important to develop exclusive design for scarf by analyzing the current fashion trend. In this research, we have designed a scarf textile, accordance with the contemporary design trend, applying the floral pattern, designed by William Morris who was an artist considered as the founder of the 1800s arts and crafts movement. We selected four trend themes, "Salon de Archives", "Eco Tech", "Profound Nature", and "Neo Aristo" for the design of 2007/2008 Fall/Winter. The flower motifs in Pimpernel Wallpaper, Honeysuckle textile design, Acanthus Wallpaper, Garden tulip wallpaper, Evenlode printed cotton, Trellis Wallpaper, and Chrysanthemum Wallpaper, by William Morris who expressed an image of environment friendly and nature reversion, applied to develop new creative scarf through design after modifying and rearranging these flower patterns. After the pattern was drawn by hand, adjusting of color and repeating of the design was done with DTP (Digital Textile Printing). Through this research, the researchers hopes to be of assistance to the development of national scarf brand design, and to the recapturing of textile industry that once played a important role in Koreans economic development.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.88-97
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• 2013

'Smart Clothes', which incorporate topnotch digital technology into fashion, are a leading fashion runner in this digital era. The purpose of the study is to first help develop a practical design for outdoor backpacks which are equipped with eco-friendly solar cells that facilitate recharging diverse smart devices during outdoor activities; and, secondly, to offer some practical data from the actual appropriation tests that will be used for manufacturing such products. This trial study finds out how to conjoin some practical IT devices with fashion items and mainly focusses on designing outdoor backpacks which are loaded with solar cells for recharging electric devices, and, later, experiments on designed backpacks with some smart phones to see how it works. According to the desired purposes of backpacks, all the features can be adjusted and modified such as the kinds of solar cell panels, materials, sizes, positions of attachment, weights, etc. Smart Clothes are highly functional and fashionable items that satisfy both practical and emotional purposes, and are being actively developed to serve consumers. This study proves that Smart Clothes or Smart Wear will have practical uses for outdoor activities and will possibly lead our smart lifestyles.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.206-214
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• 2013

There has been an increasing demand for high performance and energy-saving of blind. In order to develop the eco-friendly blind textiles, heat treatment process has been utilized for LM(Low Melting) polyester fabrics and the changes of the physical properties of the treated fabrics were examined according to temperature of heat treatment. Morphology, surface reflectance, contact angle, luster, thermal property and mechanical property of heat treated LM polyester fabrics were investigated. As results, morphology analysis of thermal treated fabrics confirmed that degree of fusion of LM polyester yarns improved with increase of temperature. Surface reflectance of thermal treated fabrics decreased with increase of temperature. Luster and contact angle of a water droplet on thermal treated fabrics increased slightly with increase of temperature. The mechanical properties of the fabrics by KES-FB system were found to be temperature-dependent and especially, bending and shear properties among them were highly related to temperature.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.46 no.1
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• pp.132-146
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• 2022

To explore the potential use of Ecklonia cava as a natural dye for textiles, silk fabric was dyed with Ecklonia cava extracted by hot water under varied conditions, including temperature, duration, dye concentration, mordanting, and pH adjustment. The fabric was also evaluated for fastness, sun-protective property, and deodorization. Ecklonia cava extract was estimated by FT-IR to have polyphenol as a main functional colorant in plants, while the existence of phlorotannins through the UV-spectrum method was also confirmed. The fabric was optimized for maximum dye uptake at a temperature of 80℃ for a duration of 50 minutes along all dye concentrations. The dyed fabric showed a hue of Yellow Red under all dyeing conditions while additional color tones, such as grayish and dark, were generated through mordanting and pH adjustment. Both good sun-protective properties and a positive deodorization rate were also recorded, with more than 20% (owf) Ecklonia cava extract on silk fabric. These results imply that Ecklonia cava has great potential to be used as an eco-friendly natural dye and in fashion goods with skin-health functions made of silk.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.16-29
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• 2022

Environmental problems increasingly serious, and sustainability in the fashion industry has become an essential factor. Nowadays, numerous brands are engaging in sustainable fashion activities, such as recycling, vegan, fair trade, etc., which have not been done before. However, there are limited studies about sustainable fashion activities focusing on luxury brands. The purpose of this study is to establish the current status of luxury brands' sustainable fashion activities based on the macro trend of Todeschini et al(2017)'s thesis. This study selected six global luxury fashion brands Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Gucci, Prada, Burberry, and Stella McCartney. Data were collected from the brand's websites and reports, fashion magazines, and Google. As a result of the study, the following adjustments are being implemented; first, efforts are being made to reduce the consumption of natural resources. Second, transparency on working conditions is provided in various ways. Third, luxury brands' awareness of the sharing economy was not opened. Fourth, efforts are being made to develop eco-friendly materials and technologies to minimize wastage. Based on these research results, if applied as basic data for the development of Korean fashion brands and start-up companies, it will help establish directions of sustainable fashion strategies.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.337-343
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to investigate the optimal dyeing conditions and human-friendly properties of the extract from the branches of Alnus firma tree which is widely used for forestation and to provide basic information for quantification and commercialization of natural dyeing by discovering such as dye material. The optimal dyeing conditions, as a result, were shown at 100% of dye concentration, $90^{\circ}C$ of dyeing temperature and 40 minutes of dyeing time. In terms of dye uptake depending on the mordanting methods, it showed the best result in order of Fe, Sn, Cu and Al at pre-mordanting while found strong in order of Fe, Cu, Al and Sn at post-mordanting. Color fastness to washing and dry cleaning was found strong at grade 4-5 and fastness to light was rated at 2. The grade of change in color to rubbing and perspiration was good at 4-5. In aspects of functional properties, it showed excellent results of 98% deodorization rate at 120 minutes of dyeing time, 96.1% UV protection rate and 99.9% bacterial reduction against Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneuminiae. It is considered, therefore, the extract from Alnus firma tree is of great value as an eco-friendly natural dyestuff.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.311-317
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• 2011

Objective: The present study was intended to identify (1) the intra- and inter-rater reliabilities of a visual sensibility evaluation protocol and (2) the effects of NaCOC color and scouring method on the visual sensibility of NaCOC. Thirty female participants(20s & 30s) were participated in the visual sensibility evaluation of NaCOC. Background: Interests in naturally colored organic cotton(NaCOC) increase rapidly in parallel with the social trend of eco-friendly living and wellbeing. Method: Three color sets (ivory, green, and coyote-brown) of NaCOC specimens including one untreated and four treated specimens($Na_2CO_3$; NaOH; enzyme; boiling water) were examined in the study. The visual sensibility evaluation was conducted by the test-retest method using nine pairs of bipolar visual sensibility adjectives(bright-dark; clear-murky; heavy-light; vivid-subdued; warm-cool; fresh-stale; strong-weak; showy-plain; and luxurious-cheap). Results: As a result of reliability of a visual sensibility evaluation protocol, inter-rater variability(average SD=1.06) of visual sensibility evaluation was more than 1.4 times the intra-rater variability(average SD=0.74). However, both the sensibility evaluation reliabilities did not show any systematic pattern of changes. Lastly, ANOVA and post-hoc analysis showed that preferred scouring methods for a visual sensibility adjective pair significantly vary depending on NaCOC color. Application: Both the reliability of visual sensibility evaluation protocol and the analysis of proper scoring method of NaCOC in the study would be useful information to design the affective textile.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.323-330
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• 2018

This study aim is to provide new coloration method by laccase-catalyzation on natural phenolic dyeing process. In this study, silk was dyed with black tea, which is one of polyphenolic dye, extracted in distilled water. The dyed samples were catalyzed by laccase as the eco-friendly mordanting process. To optimize the conditions of laccase-catalyzed coloration, conditions were varied by different mordanting methods (one-bath, two-bath), temperature and treatment time. The dye affinity in terms of the value of K/S, $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, and H, V, C was measured by Computer Color Matching System (CCM, CM-2600d, Spectra Magic NX, Korea). The effect of laccase-catalyzed coloration on washing fastness was evaluated and compared with the synthetic mordant (Al, Cu, and Fe). As the result of color analysis of dyed silk, the optimum conditions of laccase-catalyzed coloration were determined to post-mordanting by one-bath at $50^{\circ}C$ for 3 hours. Under the optimum laccase-catalyzed conditions, the dyed silk was shown the color of yellowish-red. After laccase-catalyzed coloration on the dyed silk, the improvement of washing fastness was obtained compared with mordanted silk by synthetic mordant (Al, Cu, and Fe). Therefore, the present study was demonstrated that the effective enzymatic mordanting method by laccase for phenolic natural dyeing with vivid color and good fastness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.115-124
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• 2011

This study provides an eco-friendly dyeing processing for chitosan fiber using Oenothera odorata jacquin as a dye. The effects of chemical mordants (Al, Cu, Fe) and natural mordant (Chestnut shell) on the color change for dyed chitosan fibers were measured by K/S values, L, $a^*$, $b^*$, H, V, C values, color fastness, and antimicrobial activity. The results are as follows. Dyeing conditions of Oenothera odorata jacquin on chitosan fibers were optimized to $70^{\circ}C$, 30 minutes and 200% on weight of fabric (o.w.f.). The pre-mordant concentration of aluminium (Al), copper (Cu) and iron (Fe) of chitosan fibers was optimized to 3% (o.w.f.) and 1% (o.w.f.), respectively. The post-mordant concentration of chemicals, such as Al, Cu and Fe, on chitosan was determined to 1% (o.w.f.). The hue of chitosan fibers by chemical mordants was measured to be reddish & yellow. The pre-mordant concentration of Chestnut shell of chitosan was optimized to 70% (o.w.f.). The post-mordant concentration of Chestnut shell on chitosan was determined to be 50% (o.w.f.). The hue of chitosan fibers by Chestnut shell mordant was measured to be reddish & yellow. The wet cleaning fastness of chitosan fibers was improved by a pre-mordant that used chemical mordants. In the case of the Chestnut shell mordant, the wet cleaning fastness was improved by a post-mordant. The dry cleaning fastness of chitosan fibers was excellent regardless of mordants and mordant methods. The antimicrobial activity of the chitosan fiber was shown at 99.9% and its excellent qualities remained after the dyeing and mordant processing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.15-31
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• 2023

This study aimed to propose a fashion design development method using the external and internal characteristics of the flower and bird paintings in traditional Korean folk paintings. As a research method, external and internal characteristics of folk paintings were examined through previous studies and literature research, and folk painting patterns were developed into digital textile designs. Five 3D digital fashion designs were proposed using the CLO 3D program. The external characteristics of folk paintings were as follows: simplification and planarization of object representation, diversification of viewpoints, ignorance of perspective and symmetrical enumeration, strong colors and contrast effects, and the simultaneous representation of time. The internal characteristics of folk paintings were as follows: symbolic meaning, the beauty of free humor, modest aesthetics, complexity of reality and fantasy, and desire of shamanism. The results are as follows. Firstly, the flower and bird painting was a decorative painting style that emphasized decorative beauty and was suitable for developing fashion designs with Korean originality because of the symbolic and internal meanings. Simple layouts and bold free-spirited representations were effective ways to fill the screen with objects and gave the pattern a decorative effect. Secondly, developing a virtual clothing prototype based on digital design method using the external and internal characteristics of folk paintings and producing realistic fashion designs suggest the integrated use of science and technology, embodying modern fashion through the combination of digital fashion content and traditional cultural content. Thirdly, as a result of the development of 3D digital fashion designs, an eco-friendly and sustainable fashion design methods with virtual clothing can suggest a design development method that saves time and cost in the fashion design process while considering the environment.